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    • @maxJ4380 love this shot. Nice color and sharpness. I like how you used the fence rails to add an even tighter window into the frame... especially with how busy the frame is... A window into chaos. It also looks like a frame right out of Yellowstone.
    • Some more NZR footage  
    • I don't have a sony. Although i reckon a search on youtube on sony a7iv  video may yield some useful results. 
    • First time in ages i got away for a few days and did a road trip out to a little country town i like to visit. Full discloser, never really considered myself, much of a cleanliness or sterility freak 🙃. However i am liking the sirui 1.33 24mm. Probably mostly for the convenience it brings. Its not 1.5, 1.6 or 2x, and i think the anamorphic effects are kinda tame compared to those other stretches i mention.   I liken it to stepping stones i think,  little bit different to what you'd normally see but not as jarring as 2x ( although jarring might be too strong an adjective). It will flare and do the blue streaks as well but i find the blue streaks to be less intrusive compared to what you see on youtube. I suspect the first prototypes steaked quite a lot in youtube videos, no idea if they toned them down. My experiences has been their abit more subdued.    The anamorphics guy  Tito Ferradans has a vid on using oval cutouts in sirui lenses. I'd probably try something like that next. If i wanted a look that was closer to 2x  Its taken a while to figure this lens out and i expect i still need to do more with it to realize its potential.  The whole sterility / cleanliness thing, is of course subjective. What you may like, i may not and vice versa. I personally don't find cleanliness and or sharpness objectional in a lens and i recently bought a lens with a whole lot of yellowing going on that most wouldn't buy.  I think the sirui and the other modern anamorphic lenses bring convenience to anamorphics. Buying a vintage anamorphic is much like travelling down a rabbit hole. Theres lots of things to add on and sometimes that can take a while to sort out.  Its my understanding that  1.33 are geared towards crop sensors and the bigger stretches for full frame ? of course you can mix and match,  if you so desire. i'm on mft format and i think 1.33 stretch adds enough of a difference for me. i also suspect a 1.33 stretch is a good start, if your looking to dip your toes in anamorphics and have a crop sensor camera, but dont want to travel down a rabbit hole.  
    • The "Jennette (GH5 + Kowa 8Z Anamorphic)" footage might be quite sharp actually, but the lighting is very soft (despite being quite directional), the grade of the video is very low contrast, the stream on YT is 1080p, and who knows what their export from their NLE was like.  Have a pixel pee at the shot at 20s and see what you think.  It seems like there's very little funk going on with that shot compared to more vintage glass. For example, compare it to some of the older lenses on share grid: https://www.sharegrid.com/quadplayer Like the Hawk V-Lite '74, the Todd AO, etc choosing the 50mm wide open option. In your two shots B&H vs Sirui don't discount the impact that Halation / Bloom / Glow can have on a shot - the resolution stays the same but the sharpness is reduced along with the perception of sharpness because of the reduction in local contrast beyond the pixel level. Yeah, you can always reduce resolution in post but you can't increase it (despite all this AI trickery trying to do this).  Don't be afraid of blurring the image either. I suggest you make a list of all your NLEs effects that can soften / blur / diffuse / etc, then take a couple of example shots and apply each of those effects in turn and just see what looks you can get from these tools.  It's work, but if you do it properly and label and export the images you will only have to do it once, and you might find that you can get a cheaper and more flexible lens and use some effects in post to get the look you want. Also, don't forget that if you don't set the taking lens to exactly infinity then the focus of the taking and anamorphic elements won't ever be aligned, so things near the focal plane will either be blurring vertically or horizontally or a combination of both.  Do this subtly and it will just knock-off the sharpness of the focal plane but keep the rest of the image basically the same.
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