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Gesmi

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About Gesmi

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  • My cameras and kit
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  1. I made a mistake and I can't edit anymore. Actually, I wanted to say the following: I don't like this update policy. However, i wouldn't mind paying for an upgrade to my GX85. If the camera can handle it and the upgrade is worth it, i'd rather pay €/$100 than €/$1000 for a new body. But whether the updates are worth it or not, that depends on each user. Of course, i accept payment for specific updates that are worthwhile, but i do not accept monthly subscriptions at all.
  2. I have mixed feelings about this matter. I don't like this update policy. However, iI wouldn't mind paying for an upgrade for my GX85. If the camera can handle it and the upgrade is worth it, i'd rather pay €/$100 than €/$1000 on a new body. But whether the updates are worth it or not, that depends on each user. For example. Sometimes, with CinelikeD and CinelikeV activated at the same time (saved in C modes), one of these modes freezes in all photography modes. To solve this, i had to connect the camera to the HTML we all know and disable CineD and CineV. Next, I activate CineD again and save it to C1. For some reason, I can't have both profiles saved, because the camera will lock on one of them in any of the photography modes. An update that officially activates both hidden profiles would be very nice. Other things would be good too, such as: All regional framerates. That is, i have the european model (GX80), which prevents me from having 30 and 60 fps. There is a way to activate it, but it's a little tricky and i don't want to mess up the camera. I'm assuming the camera can't offer 4K recording at 50/60fps, but I would like a higher bitrate at 1080p. I wouldn't mind also having 10 bit 422 150 Mbit. Although I think the GX85 couldn't handle it, or it would heat up quickly if it could (although this is my imagination). If the camera software can be improved to have faster focusing in 4K, it would be appreciated as well. I think I'm too optimistic, at least when we speak about the GX85. However, it doesn't seem crazy to me on high-end bodies and/or more recent bodies.
  3. Thank you very much for your time and advice, Kye. I am going to study all the material you have provided in your post, to learn what i need to know. 😉 I've just started in the field of video (I've always been more into photography and playing with RAW). I have also recently purchased a course on how to use Davinci Resolve. It actually blew my mind when i saw the video of the G7. Even at base ISO and with a LUT applied (which seems quite aggressive), the video looks very clean, full of detail, free of the typical artifacts of grading 8-bit videos and with a dynamic range that i didn't expect to be possible get with a Panasonic G85/GX85/G7, at least in standard mode. That's the reason i started this post, because i knew there are people here who have experience with the GX85 (like you). I was curious to know your opinions. In fact, thanks to this forum, i have learned how to activate CinelikeD on the GX85 (and that many people here longed for it to get the most out of the camera's dynamic range). However, after watching the G7 video, i think i have more than enough with the standard/natural modes. In a few days, i'll buy an ND filter and start shooting video and editing it. Thank you so much 🙂
  4. Thank you all for your advice and your time. I'm going to decide between the K&F Concept Nano-X Filter 82mm ND8-128 and the Neewer 82mm ND8-128.
  5. Yes, i'm sure about i'm missing something and i'm currently doing bad recordings. I need to do more tests. At the moment, the little material i have recorded is usually overexposed, but it is recorded in CineD (-5,-5,-5,-3 -- H/S -1,+1, iDynamic off) or in Natural (same settings). I have the zebra alert at 95%. I choose the right WB for each ocassion too. I'm avoiding the standard mode, because i can't believe that the dynamic range quality of these videos can be achieved with this setting. But maybe i'm wrong. After all, i'm a newcomer to the videography territory. Have you seen the video of the G7?. If so, based on your experience with the GX85. Is that dynamic range possible?.
  6. I read about the K&F ones that are not accurate with hard stops. I don't think it's worrying, as long as they have stops and don't rotate infinitely. But if there is a model from another brand for the same price but with better features, I would like to know. There are many videos on YouTube that speak highly of K&F, but many of those videos are sponsored content. I've been looking at the nd2-400 model, but I'm going to take a look at the 5-stops model because I haven't paid enough attention to this one. I haven't looked at the SLR Magic models, I'm going to investigate them.
  7. OK I understand. I apologize in advance, because i published this post before looking for other posts that deal with this topic. I should have answered one of them. My current camera is a Panasonic GX80. I would prefer to avoid having to raise the ISO above 800 and, most of the time, work at base ISO. The maximum opening would be 1.7. What i learned from other posts is that they all have color casting, so that takes getting used to. I'm not too worried. Regarding the loss of sharpness, in all models there will be a small loss of sharpness. Another thing that i have to get used to, because it doesn't seem very problematic either. What else did i learn?. Avoid €5 models at all costs. The ones around €20 - €40 have decent image quality, but may have poor construction. I know people who purchased Amazon Basics models and had dust leak inside them, causing noise when the filter ring rotates. My price to pay would be €50 - €100. I want to avoid the extremely cheap ones. I like the Freewell and Polar Pro models, but they cost a lot. From what i searched on the internet, i have not seen anyone comment on any model that is compatible with a lens hood. I guess it doesn't exist. Something I also have to get used to, although this bothers me, since it shouldn't be difficult to solve. I said before that color casting doesn't worry me, but only to a certain extent. I want a filter with consistent color casting throughout the entire stop path, not one that is a little green at nd2 and blue at nd32. In this video, i saw 2 Neewer models. The cheap one has more vignetting, but the tint it has is consistent throughout. The expensive model has less vignetting, but the more raised hard stop, the more blued turns the image. This video. Anyway, i am obsessed with not making a mistake with the purchase. I would buy the cheap Neewer model (the 82mm diameter version) and the necessary step up rings for my selected lenses. It has more vignetting, but I imagine that with an 82mm diameter model it will be less noticeable. I like this one better because it is consistent with the tint of the image. I don't understand why the cheaper model offers better colors than the expensive one, which is supposed to be a "true color" labeled model. And the expensive model still has a lot of vignetting. If someone on the forum has experience and recommends a model with similar features but with less vignetting, i would like to buy it. Thanks in advance.
  8. Hi! I'm searching for a variable ND filter with acceptable quality. Not one of the cheap ones but one that doesn't cost a fortune either. It's for video, so i'm not sure if one of nd2-nd32 will be enough for sunny days. Maybe an nd8-nd128?. I think that there are no nd2-nd400s at an affordable price with acceptable quality. Would it be better to buy 2 units nd2-nd32 and combine them?. I also look for it to have defined stops and not rotate infinitely. Is there any model that can be compatible with a lens hood?. Thanks in advance.
  9. Hi everyone, this is my first post 🙂 I saw a video on YouTube that I can't believe. I have a Panasonic GX85 and I watched the video of a content creator named Hamidreza Sohrabi. This one: Lumix G7 + 14-42 kit lens I looked at the comments, to see if he said anything about the camera settings. In this video, no one says nothing about it. On the other hand, I have searched another video that he uploaded. I have extrapolated the settings of the other video (Sedona) to the other video recorded with the G7: Sedona According to him, it is recorded with standard mode, with the sharpness and noise reduction at -5. He doesn't say anything else. Contrast and saturation are supposed to be at 0. It also doesn't say anything about iDynamic or H/S. Therefore, iDynamic is disabled and the H/S values are also at 0. I've seen the video and, despite what Mr. Sohrabi says and fails to say, i can't believe he achieved that much dynamic range with that setting. If he had said it was recorded with CinelikeD, i would have believed it. The videos look fantastic. Even with a LUT applied, there are almost no artifacts typical of an 8-bit compressed video. I'm telling you all this because it's possible that I'm wrong. Maybe I've missed something. What is your opinion? I hope @BTM_pix and @Kye can say something about this. Thanks in advance.
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