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not yet, keyscan is killed in the process of updating the hibernation image. Please be patient, I received the burner so i am working on it.

Finally completed my Voigtlander SL II Set. 20mm, 28mm, 40mm, 58mm, & 90mm. 20 is the last, while not the sharpest It has great rendering and "pop" with very little distortion on faces.

This video is great because of what it proves. The moral of this video: Image stabilisation IS NOT A FUCKING STEADYCAM! Stop trying to use it as one. Did any manufacturer ever promote IS by saying how good it is to walk round with? I will be suprised if they have. Its designed to compensate for involuntary hand shake when you are trying to hold the camera still, thats it. The added distortion an jittering looks worse than if you just walked around slowly with the camera on monopod. By the looks of it the GX80 will be excellent for getting 4k static shots with a prime lens without a tripod. That is great and all that it needs to be.

You could probably sell it and buy a used Nikon version for the same price. That way you have aperture control on the NX1 as well as all future cameras no matter what mount. And if you get the ND throttle you will have both aperture control and built in variable ND in the lens.

Lens setup was my Sigma 18-35mm, Metabones BMPCC/EF Speed Booster, Hoya IR Cut, Hoya ProND 200.

From today's shoot with the Micro in bright california sun. Still amazes me how much detail is retained, especially with all that white in the frame. This is for a client so I can't leave them up indefinitely, but for now...

Yeah, no mains charger in my kit, but shares the same battery with the LX100 and Gx7 so no problems there. The camera is only a little bit bigger than my LX100, and feels solid. The image looks good, and Hallelujah I think that they finally fixed the jitter with the Panasonic 35-100/2.8 with this camera. I need to do a formal compare of the 35-100/2.8 on G7/Gx80/E-M5II @200mm equivalent and vs. my LX100 at 70mm equivalent.

Latest versions since 1.47 of KS-pack are not only faster with gui, it also seems to be faster with sd-cards due some optimizations in scripts. I can say that with first 1-2-3 versions of vasiles bitrate hack I can reach 140-180 mbps (depends on the card) and with latest versions of NX-KS I can use 190-260 mbps with pretty much the same cards. But I really, really recommeng to read all info about this on dpr or github since guys mostly conversate there. it's not about that you can't use the hack without reading, of course not, you can, but there is known issues that not only mentioned but resolved in this threads, and there is unresolved ones, which good to be aware of. But in most cases all NX-KS works very good, bitrates, focus options, overall stability - is fine now I can manage to use automatic focus pull with MF-switched lense during the video record with 120 mbps bitrate via Otto's script in NX-KS pack, which is VERY cool option. Same thing via telnet works faster for now, but with new optimisations I think there is a good chance to reach very-very good stability and speed in this. It looks just incredible, you know.

Well now is the time It's stable and pretty much fast. You don't need to follow exact last version, any from 1.47 are OK, but I recommend to use latest one at the moment. I'd say you find it more practical than sd-card scripts. Also there is a little "readme related" problem, since guys work fast and do so much things, there is no way one of them can be proper technical writer for the project and here is the problem (not so much problem but somewhat inconvenience) - early adopters might be in far more vantage point since they follow the progress with developers and there is no need to explain everything between them, and any last adopters need to ask more and more with each version of hack, because proper technical writer is very hard work and obviously not so beneficial in terms of progress. It is what it is, yes. Early adopters are testers, so I can understand you if have no time for this, but here my 2 cents

Yes the edit drive is when I'm working on a specific project, I'll import the footage into that drive and create a PP project. Cache files, I set up a cache folder on my 4TB storage drive. My programs drive is a whole different drive. It's a 500GB SSD.

I had it, and it's terrible compared to other options!! It is a smart design but poorly executed. Mine didn't flip properly (half of the time the image staid upside down) and they didn't answer to my emails. And it's really low res (I got a MustHD and the difference was huge). I would get a Aputure FineHD V2 if I was buying now, best bang for buck if you don't want a recorder and you like big monitors. This is my setup... Attaching the mini plate to the monitor makes the setup fast and easy and it all fits in a small cheap Amazon camera bag. The best thing is that when you block the tripod head (Mantona 18008) that holds the monitor (MustHD) it's feels like a handle, and it's quite comfy to hold with one hand and pull focus with the other. It's like holding an inverse Bolex D16... I really like it! All I need is a cage to protect the cameras HDMI input.

Panasonic's argument against IBIS during video recording was that it compromised heat dissipation. Has anyone tested for overheating with the IBIS on?

I had to do it with the nx500 to level out unbalanced color. I notice it with the G7 as well but not as much. At default, the red blue and green were off. It took a few ticks down to get the colors even.

Personally I have stopped doing that. I leave the contrast alone as well. Gives me better results than "fake log".

I really appreciate your hard work as tester - it is really great contribution. Honestly - I have tried one of very very early version of Kino Seed's version and then rather stick to original Vasile's BT hack becuase it basically fixed most important issue to me of NX1 (macroblocking) and I am fine with it (except longer booting). I know that last versions are probably big leap from earlier versions (also because of you)- I will definitely try it but updates comes so fast (which is great!) and I was 2 weeks without internet connection so I am little bit lost now :)) BTW :-) - my name is Pavel (first name) Masek (surname). Mašek corrupted because of unsupported diacritics from FB login...

T stop can vary across zoom range even if F stop is constant. The camera probably has this information and it could be the case that it tries to compensate for the difference in brightness but with a small delay.

Love mine so far... It's all about the stabiliser, leave the tripod at home... It's basically an Olympus E-M5 II with 4K video, none of the Sony menu troubles, decent physical control layout, good EVF and tilt screen.

It's here (this link contains all the versions and commit data) https://github.com/ottokiksmaler/nx500_nx1_modding/commits/master/NX-KS.zip

Better colors, v-log Better low light; noise free up to ISO 3200 or 6400 Better DR(14 stops) 10-bit 422 internal I'd be in line to buy it with these specs.

Just finished in first stage. Prime lens: Canon EF 40mm STM, actual ratio: ~1.5x

-No recording limit. I am using a US model so I'm not sure if it'll be different for models released in other countries, but the Panasonic let me record as long as I wanted. No overheating either - during the battery stress test, the hand grip area got warm but nothing too bad. Edit: Sorry, tested without IBIS. My bad.

... and burner is burned :-( - that was quick :-( $&^%$

Forgot about chroma noise. Another great reason to dial down sat a couple points. Seconded on not touching contrast. Maybe it worked on Canon cameras, but on a Panasonic/Sony especially, it just causes a bevy of problems with no real benefits.

I don't think hdds configuration makes that much of difference. Yes you can get less jumps between different clips if positioned distant on the HDD because it needs to seek on the platters. SSD removes that problem. BUT I don't think you will humanly notice any difference. For these applications where the CPU is always the limit hdd speed is negligible considerand that most reach 100MB/s at least.

The Sony stabilisation isn't on par, way less effective.

I would echo the sentiment of many others here. More resolution is of little value at this point. 6K, 60K, who cares when the video color is mediocre (4:2:0). What professionals and prosumers want is better color and dynamic range. RAW video or at the very least true 4:2:2 bit footage (no wrapper BS) I hope Panasonic is listening to feedback with their next camera.

Skin tones under orange lighting. Too much red!

GX85 using the Panny 42.5 f/1.7, a little wobbly but considering its a 85mm equivalent, pretty good. Now I just need to remember to white balance...

Could any of the lucky owners share some original media in the corresponding topic? Would love to see some footage with skin shot in Standard with -5/-5/-5/-5 if possible

I've actually been considering this exact set! What camera are you using them on? How do you like the set overall?

Here is the Focus Pull test video with EV based script in NX-KS 1.59m, 100 mbps for steady result

This monitor looks interesting. It doesn't get great reviews, but the form factor is exactly what I'm looking for. If they made one in a 3.5" model I'd be sold. Crafty. The rubber washer was a great idea.

In a quiet room, automatic gain control ramps the gain up so high you can hear a pin drop, so it amplifies the sound of the IBIS operating to a dim hum. Using a proper plugin rode mic or in a normal shooting environment you can't hear it.

I picked mine up last week, and I've not had the chance to shoot anything worth showing, but I'm loving the form factor. I frankensteined a rig together out of bits I had thinking I would get a cage or something, but it turned out so well that I'm keeping it the way it is. It's basically built on a long Manfrotto plate, with a bunch of rod clamps and 1/4in screws, with a single 15mm rod that runs over the top where I mount my DP4. The DP4 has side 1/4in sockets so I've put a hot shoe screw on one side with a rubber washer which holds it in place via friction, so I can change the angle of the screen with one hand. I also broke out the soldering iron and made an expansion box with an on/off button for stop/start, and two push buttons to control other stuff (I've mapped mine to white balance and shutter angle). I've put a handle on the right hand side and it's really comfortable to use at chest level. I can also mount my Atomos Power Station to the back, which makes for a nicer balance if I'm using a heavier lens. With the Power Station you can even pop it on the shoulder... for a short time (the Power Station sits on the shoulder, there's no padding or anything but it's totally doable for a few minutes at a time). Hopefully I can get out there this weekend and use this thing!

Yeah, I understand this it's cool, but I must say that latest versions of KS-pack are very, incredible fast compare even to early versions of KS-pack and of course to vasiles bitrate hack. It's because that now KS-pack use internal memory of camera to locate the scripts, now they are not on sd-card, so it works sooooo much faster than sd-card based scripts. Scripts are basically the same with some optimisations. Thanks I think there lot of guys do the same, not only me of course, and even little help is help, so big thanks from me to all who seek any errors and inconveniences with this project, suggest new ways and produce other add-ons to the hack. Oh, sorry about that, I know where I did mistake yesterday. Thanks for clearing it out, now I will use your name properly

Compressed .krw raw is not uncompressed raw. I don't have a Terra 6k for sale. Terra 6k is the most comparable. $9000 without EF - kinemount and kineEnhancer. Add in the proper media storage. Are you sure the price is less? (it's not...) If you tally up all the things I am including using the ole innnnnernet I think you will find that number to be more than what I am asking for my virtually brand new wares. And you know, I never said I wasn't open to hearing out an offer. Cheers.

Ok Thanks for all your advices. Gonna work with cine2/4 and cinema color... By the way kidzrevil really fan of what you achieve with the NX1 hack....

well, PEN F looking great...

I don't know... The 60p alone is worth the upgrade, if you ask me. I'd rather it have a built in screen, but a cheap 3.5 in EVF will do the trick and still keep the real estate small. Also, you must have good eyes because I don't notice any of those things. And it's kinda not cool to nitpick the images Zak graciously shared. He said they are a couple grabs from a paid gig he is doing. Doubtful his client will see your comment, but still...

noise is slightly improved, rolling shutter is improved. I personally prefer the micro brain form factor to the pocket's point and shoot design. adding up all the improvements, there was enough for me to make the upgrade. but that's a call each person needs to make on their own -- if the slight improvements and differences justify the expense.

Taken samples, 2.25:1 from 3:2 cmos FF camera by 1.5x ratio.

Stabilization looks good! Mine's charging away (yeah I'm one of those; first charge, then play (on initial run)). -- Gotta say, it's a pretty little thing and actually rather comparable to the LX100; hardly any bigger. It has the tilty screen the LX100 should've had in the first place and then of course the interchangeable lens mount (the 12-32mm is a little smaller than the integral unit of the LX100). Dual dial action opposed to the top dedicated top dials on the LX100. For a moment I forgot the ring on the kitlens was for the zoom and doesn't do much focussing on rotation, lol xD. I've been using too many primes lately, so focus solely relies on the AF with it, which actually does a fair job. And even using the EVF you can touch to focus on the screen which works quite nice. On this rather gloomy rainy day, at this time of day, weather and light doesn't really lend to go out. Fingers crossed tomorrow is a little better. Some messing around already showed decent stabilization; looks a tad bit nervous, might be partially the autofocus, the fact electronic stabilization is off or just my excitement having a new camera that it's hard to control physical exertion. Just one clip though. Image and noise profile looks a lot like the G7 with in the darkest areas hardly any noise, just to come in with some organic grains in the somewhat darker mids. So far, so good.

Crappy lighting and limited movement, this may be nominated for worst initial footage, but it's all I have at this point. Shot with the kit lens.

Im only roughly 25% sure I will buy one to try out, but if so, Im waiting on the Silver/Brown with the 20mm f1.7 Kit.

Well, considering an Arri from 10 years ago would be a D20 - there would actually be a lot of benefits to using the GH4, depending on what you're shooting. The D20 has a nice sensor and can give you a nice image, sure - but the mucking around to get that into some sort of workable format and workable image is ridiculous. The camera has been discontinued, and even its successor has been discontinued. How easy will it be to find parts if something goes wrong? It's actually more like saying 'I'm not going to spend money on a 10 year old camera that's been long discontinued, when I can spend the same or less on a camera that will give me an image that's nearly as good, and be 10x easier to work with, and is newer, so is likely to stay relevant for a bit longer.' You should only ever consider buying a camera if you can be confident you'll be able to make a return on it within 18 months. The technology moves so quickly these days that a 7 year old camera becomes irrelevant very quickly. Not to mention, the RED One is already 8 years old. To expect it to continue to hold up in another 7 years is naivety. Would you call the Sony F900 still relevant? Unless you've just got money to blow (in which case just buy something, why are you asking), you should be pretty certain you can pay it off within 18 months. If you need a camera that's going to attempt to stay relevant for the next 7 years, you're going to need to buy a relatively new, relatively expensive camera now, and even then you'll likely be disappointed if you really can only pay the camera off over 7 years. -- On the question of RED One vs RED Scaret - the Scarlet is by far a better camera. But the ROne kit is pick up and shoot, whereas the Scarlet one you're going to need all sorts of other things. If I were you, I might think about something like an FS5 - gives you pretty good quality, soon to give you raw, can have a PL mount put on it, is 4k, pretty new, etc etc. Plus you can put cheap lenses and expensive lenses on it.. I think overall you'd probably be happier. The FS700 has been able to stay somewhat relevant thanks to its raw recording (though it is still only four years old). Otherwise, maybe a second hand F5. You'll probably only get the body, but that's essentially what you're getting with the Scarlet anyway. It doesn't necessarily have the name recognition of RED, but realistically you're not going to book jobs based on the fact that you own an 8 year old camera. Maybe if you can find the money to upgrade the Scarlet to a Dragon sensor..

You can catch some dropped frames with any bitrate, but this number increases with increased bitrates, yes. It's not about sdcard I presume, it's mostly of the camera settings which can affect codec itself and it goes wild. I can tell that even with standart 80 mbps bitrate, before the hack FHD@120 have dropped frames. It's heavily affected by camera settings and enviroment of the record. Me too with sandisk 95MB\s But you need to test your footages, it easy to do in any video editor or player, you just need to find file properties and see is there variable or constant frame rate. It will tell you about dropped frames during the record of this file.

Hell Yeah wait for the Kinefinity Terra 5K!

That is slog2/3. Color gamuts affect just the color response. Try the cine modes with the cinema/pro color mode if you want to avoid noise but still have a gradable image.

@lucabutera I've posted here screen grab from this footage and drop the link on original NX1 file few days earlier. Youtube version is far from ok for the any test unrelated to youtube itself )) Here the link to original 250 mbps file from this session. Author send me this one since he doesn't registred at eoshd and dpr, and give me permission to share Yeah, there is dropped frames all right. Also bit windy day so tripod is shaking and it's author's first shooting after he installed bitrate hack ever.

Yeah im not bothered with the sensor size. I do want better color, At least 10bit, a hell of a better noise performance and more DR and RAW would be nice so I can choose to have the the image a lot softer for cinematic purposes, and sharp for travel video.