John Matthews

I learned a lot from this video (probably already posted). Presented by The great Driftwood himself (kudos to Panasonic for hiring him to do this). For you millennial noobs, Driftwood was the Englishman who gave us many important hack settings for the hacked GH2, arguably one of the cameras that really started everything for mirrorless cameras.

I couldn’t help noticing (after filming this weekend) that the IBIS on the GH6 was much better with wobbly corners with my Panasonic 9mm f/1.7. It easily rivals my Olympus EM5 iii or EM1ii ( and same lens) with enhanced mode on (stab 1 setting with extra crop). This big difference is the GH6 was in NO CROP mode. Wow!

For photos, I actually almost never see any noise on any of my M43 cameras with DXO. It does absolute magic for any ISO chosen to remove noise. In my real-world tests the GH6 does well. I'm also quite happy with the real-world DR for photos, but you need to expose more for the scene or ETTR as the ISO invariance on this camera doesn't really exist for photos- even though they are rather big in size(35-42mb). For video with DR Boost on, it goes above and beyond with me filming unlit interior shots with sunlight and sky hitting outside light-colored walls. Somehow, it still keeps highlights within the limits of VLOG and I can see details on the sunlit wall. This is not really how I would do things normally, but it's still impressive.

The GH6, from my limited experience, doesn't behave the same as other cameras (at least in photo mode). The first thing I noticed right off the bat was that you need to expose more like the final image you intend on getting, not just shooting for the highlights. Also, you should know that the DR Boost mode is always ON in photo mode (Panasonic confirmed that in a live stream). 13 stops in video mode is probably generous on the GH6, but so is 15 stops on the A7sIII. Anyway, I think anything above 10 stops is AMAZING for rec709 and current viewing possibilities! 13 stops way more than what was going on just 10 years ago, and on a M43 sensor. I don't think we're going to get much more real differences with CMOS sensor tech anyway. Of course, there's still room for improvements, but we're not going to get 27 stops DR 20bit gigapixel images without a major change. In the meantime, we've got AI.

I sell most of my gear on the leboncoin.fr in France (not helpful). If you want to sell fast and actually be paid, try KEH or MBP. All other sites don’t offer ANY protection to sellers. The best option is to sell to a friend or in-person and cash on the barrel. This is a real problem with no good solutions.

I’m not too bothered by the current Panasonic AF system. For me, it’s been serviceable, not the best. For stills, I find it great. I really like the idea of a focus limiter, but I’d like to see an improvement in the interface or methodology to set it. If you watch YouTubers, you’d think contrast AF is more out of focus than in focus, which is total BS. Also, you’d think it works like crap in stills, which is also not the case. LiDAR sounds interesting, but I don’t know enough about it to comment.

Doesn't a focus limiter do this? ..."drastic leaps backwards and forwards"

I think it's more a question, to my eye, of "embracing digital (Sony)" versus attempting a "filmic look (Panasonic)". You can always change color later anyway, for the most part. My beef with Sony is that they seem quite arbitrary as to what camera gets what feature; you always end up hoping for an inevitable firmware update that eventually comes in the form of a new camera you have to buy. Sony always seems more interested "business" than the "shooter", with the CEO having any decision decided by the company accountant that he has on speed-dial. They really do behave like a consumer electronics company rather than a camera company. Is Panasonic any better? Not sure, but we did get some promised features with the new firmware updates and I'm quite happy with that.

Not a pro. Don't sell my services, but I do family events and just interested in the medium (for now). Really, no reason why 8bit 420 isn't enough for me for everything. But now, I have a camera that can do so much more and I'm looking for ways to use it to its full potential. I have all of my videos on SSDs, which is frankly unnecessary as they collect digital dust. I've been looking for the perfect workflow for me and I'd say the GH6 has thrown a wrench into the mix; it's great to have new tools, but now I need to find a way to use it. I'm thinking something like this: record the best quality in-camera initially cut/edit into more manageable files, making sure color and DR is "good enough" and that I can still do slight grading, probably H.265 422 10bit or Prores LT in 1080p use these files later on for whatever project I have. I think this process is almost necessary with the GH6 in that it has something really annoying (maybe possible to get rid of?) by having 4 mono audio channels on every video. In FCPX, I have to make them stereo and uncheck the unused channels. I don't want to have files that are on my disks that I can't really listen to because they've got audio weirdness. This could be a benefit some and I might be able to "adjust" my capture to make the sound stage even better.

Anybody have a good cfexpress type b card reader recommendation? Should I just get a cheap one, go based on looks alone, or are there any real differences? The transfer rate via the supplied usb cable from Panasonic doesn't seem adequate.

That's what I'm seeing too. The files are massive (comparatively to even a 20MP sensor) due to the GH6 being 14bit. My questions is, in the example above, what's written in the file that takes 32.5MB? The GH6 acts more like a Canon (non-Sony sensor). You need to get it right in camera, which might be how a mirrorless camera should be.

I'm fairly certain that the GH6 is NOT an ISO invariant camera. The test on DPreview for dynamic range in photos is completely falsified due to this fact. I think it's more like a simultaneous bracketed shot, leading to poor shadow performance when severely underexposed. Any ideas? Does that sound right? I remember back in the day with my Pentax K5 when I could practically underexpose by 5 stops and I could increase exposure in post with the noise being the same as when I shot it 5 stops higher. I could also use my uniWB trick to make sure I never blew a highlight in the green channel... it worked well, but the GH6 is a different beast altogether.

@Emanuel, I think you read WAY too deep into my question. There's no "team" on my end. I've had lots of different formats and brands in the past too. Some better than others at things. I like Panasonic and Olympus. After my experience, I stay away from Sony (but they can produce some great images) and I don't do Canon after the R5 overheating fiasco... I like their printers though. I've also enjoyed Pentax for stills. It's all good.

Well, if Sony is what you're looking for, just buy that and move on. Why would you be so insistent on a GH6 if all is good on the Sony?

And such is life in the digital age of shopping. Are you serious? You actually tried to call Amaevil? I think you might be shopping in the wrong place for that kind of service. Go the local camera store in France and buy a GH6 as you’ll get the experience you’re looking for. FX30 looks good too, especially if you prioritize AF and DR over IBIS and color.