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sgreszcz

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sgreszcz last won the day on May 14 2016

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About sgreszcz

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  1. sgreszcz

    Fuji X-T4

    I loved the original LX100. Other than the non-tilt screen, weak viewfinder, only so-so stabilisation, and some weird colours sometime (like lips and other reds), the LX-100 original was a fantastic pocketable video and photo camera. Still one of my favourites along with the original OMD E-M5. They fixed a lot of the LX100 problems above with the GX80, however the IBIS and viewfinder on the GX80 are still not the best. I travelled through Malaysia last spring with a GX80 and the Panasonic 15mm + 45-175 zoom, and after I wished I would have brought my GH5 with me. Especially for the zoom work, too much wobble. I have used the 100-400 on my GH5 to film sailing from shore and snowboarding at the olympics and it was magic-stable. I'm not a pro, so I would sell a lot of my M43 gear for GH5 features in an LX100iii. Sorry for the Panasonic diversion. I've always been a bit curious of Fuji cameras so looking forward to what comes with the X-T4. Probably a larger camera than I want to carry though. Can't wait until you guys get your hands on it.
  2. Hi there, I've recently decided to try the new Olympus OMD E-M5 iii after switching from the original E-M5 to Panasonic GX80 4 years ago (and more recently added a GH5). I've decided to try Olympus again now that they have good 4k video codec and great PDAF auto-focus. I've also enjoyed the Olympus colours, the better viewfinder and IBIS (especially compared to the GX80) and the much smaller size/weight compared the GH5 (which I only used for paid jobs, and never carried around or travel with). Is anyone shooting with the E-M1ii, EM1x, or the E-M5iii and can share tips, especially to get the best out of the PDAF C-AF system or other video tricks/tips? From the little testing that I've done the EM-5iii works pretty good. Hopefully it will help me follow focus with the fast moving kids/events that I video, I need to do some more testing. The touchscreen focus also works really smoothly too. Some things I already miss on the Panasonics (like zebras) although I find the Olympus histogram is much more useful with the overall histogram and the focus point overlay. I really do like how Olympus has managed to put all the custom function buttons and levers on such a small camera, which really helps change things quickly like 2x crop, peaking on/off, ISO, etc. However I don't like how stills and photo settings like ISO carry over when changing modes, and I couldn't find a way to put a custom movie mode on the "C" dial. Instead I had to put my stills Aperture mode settings on "C" and use the video mode for video. Luckily is is really fast to change settings (like from 4k for 120fps HD) from the super control panel. I do also miss the focus point joystick on the GH5 though, and find that the Panasonic auto-exposure is better with face detection than the Olympus which seems to overexpose for some reason.
  3. Yeah, I've got an DJO Osmo pocket which is good enough for the things that I do, and with an extension pole I can get pseudo drone/crane shots. I sold my gimbal as it was just too much of a hassle to set up and carry around. The GH5 + PL12-40 with dual IS (which I use now) is pretty darn good when in "tripod IS mode", but when adding some movement it wasn't nearly as good as even older Olympus models in my opinion.
  4. Man, those shots at 1:50 - who needs a gimbal. Probably going to sell my GH5 and go back to Olympus. Even though the original EM5 had blocky video, I loved shooting photos and video with it and always had it with me due to size-weight. I heavily used the GX80, but the IBIS and viewfinder let it down. Was originally thinking of a used E-M1ii and E-M10iii combo, but now might just get a new EM5ii as it is small enough and does all I need... That and the 12-100/4 would be perfect for the event stuff I do.
  5. Hey there, Normally I shoot local events with my GH5 + PL12-60/2.8-4 and PL25/1.4 lenses for outdoor stuff, and Voigtlander 17.5/42.5 pair (plus Laowa 10mm/2) for indoor or lower-light/slower stuff. I realise now I could substitute most of these lenses with the single PL10-25/1.7 zoom (I would keep my P42.5/1.7 and O75/1.8 for longer stuff). Even though the lens is heavy, it would be lighter than carrying either of those two combinations and I wouldn't need to change lenses. I think this might simplify my lens choices. It will hurt to sell the Voigtlanders (although I already sold my 25mm). I don't use them that often, but when I do I realise how lovely they make things look. Anyone tried the Panasonic 10-25 yet? Stephen (I would probably keep the Laowa as it is so small and works great as a timelapse lens on my GX80)
  6. I feel the same way with my GH5. I've been flirting with Panasonic since the GX80 got IBIS (for the better video codec) and also picked up a GH5 with the 12-60/2.8-4 Leica which I do almost everything with. I'm still not liking the colours as well as the old Olympus (spend more time in post colour correcting) and the size/weight of the GH5 is more noticeable compared to my old EM5-ii. I'm considering moving back once I see what the EM5-iii is about, or just grabbing two refurbished EM10-iii and selling my panasonic lenses and relying on the Olympus 12-100/4 for outdoor events and my 17 and 42 Voigtlanders on two cameras for indoors. I agree, the 60p 4k is great for getting better shutter speeds with less ND and the digital crop is handy for more reach. However I use the HLG a lot these days for the better file compression and the 10-bit, although more work with LUTs/corrections in post...
  7. I agree completely here, I do mostly events, run-and-gun. I've tried several "good" variable ND brands like Aurora Aperture Power XND (using that lately) and Genus and Heliopan. They all do funky things to the image with colour, especially as you change them and get towards the maximum limits. Also they seem to flatten the picture somewhat too. I did sort of like the look with Heliopan though... I have had better results with my non-variable Breakthrough Photography ND filters, and I think I might just move back to them and change between 3-stop and 6-stop and ride the aperture and shutter to get exposure. Hopefully this will save time and angst balancing and matching shots in post. I have to finish off the project that I am working on now with the Aperture variable NDs to make things look similar I think.
  8. Yeah, I should probably use the expodisk and manually WB more often. I do do that for static/interview type shots, but for run-and gun and changing light (sunny/cloudy or sun/shade) I rely on AWB. The reason I'm getting a bit paranoid about that is that I was doing some shooting with one of my faders and got some nasty colour shifts that I didn't really notice when shooting. I'd like to stay consistent as possible. As convenient as the faders are for getting good exposure, I think the colours are better with fixed NDs. Also, I've been playing around with no ND at all and just cranking the shutter speed. Seems to work OK unless there is fast motion or water/splashing, etc. I just wish there were more internal NDs or lower ISOs. I can get away with a couple stops by shooting my GH5 in 4k/60 and 100ISO too.
  9. I have a question, not strictly about color grading, but I'm trying to put together a workflow for testing my ND filters for color fidelity before starting a long-term documentary project. I'm going to compare two different ND fader types (Heliopan, Aurora) and my fixed ND filters (Breakthrough 3/6/10 stop). Here is my plan, bur please tell me if I'm missing something or completely wrong: 1) Stick with a single lens, single camera with a set color profile (GH5, natural) 2) I'll be using my son as a model (for skin tone checking) and an X-rite color checker video passport. 3) Custom balance with an expodisk (or maybe better to just set the camera to a fixed sunny/5600k for consistency? 4) Expose the shots for the 28% grey at 50% IRE??? 5) Shoot some video at a few apertures (vary the shutter speed) without any ND filters as a baseline. 6) Take some video at various apertures with the ND filters - start at widest aperture (darkest ND) and stop down by 1 each time (varying the fader to get the right exposure) Here is where I especially need suggestions to see how "accurate" the images are: 7) Use vectorscope to see how well the colour patches "fit" as well as the skintones. How can I tell how much "shift" there is from the baseline? Thank you so much for any advice!
  10. After shooting events/weddings all day with the GH5, compared to the GX80 I can really notice the difference in my hand/wrist soreness.
  11. That’s mostly due to my magnetic xume holder for my NDs and 46-58mm step up ring stack.
  12. I’m on holiday with my gh5 and the PL12-60 zoom and really enjoying it for video and photography. With the 4k50 and ISO 100 you can get away with little or no ND and still use 180d shutter. The IBIS is pretty much Olympus-class for static shooting and I like the colour and image quality. I am at a family wedding today and got pulled into the role of hybrid photographer/videographer. Shot with the 12-60 zoom during the daytime and then a combo of 7.5mm, 15mm, and 42.5mm <f2.0 primes that fit in my dress shorts pockets. Didn’t need to go above ISO1600 which is good enough for me. The 4K crop mode and then Being able to further crop down for 1080p delivery is also great as is the 1080p slow-mostion. With a couple of instamics placed here and there for audio that tiny setup works great and what keeps me with micro4/3 when I consider wondering to Sony or Fuji. The Panasonic JPEGs and video colour are much better than they used to be too, since the GX80 was released. Before then I much preferred Olympus. Been considering an EM1 or EM5 (4K) A cam with EM10iii B cam (for the better IBIS, colour, and viewfinder) but going to stick with Panasonic GH5/GX80 for now.
  13. Well, that ‘update’ saved me some money. I had the original LX100 and loved it except for some funny colour and, bad evf, and not so great iOS. Was hoping for a mini gh5 to go with my real gh5, but I guess I stick with my gx80 as travel cam for a while longer...
  14. Do you suggest the 400 Mbps 422 10 Bit All intra 25 fps (1.9 MB per frame) or better to just use the 10 bit FHD All Intra 200 Mbps codec if you don't need 4k?
  15. There are some on Amazon that can do the DC conversion from a USB power bank. One of them has a dual feed so you can switch packs without using power. As long as you have a 3A AC/DC USB converter you can hook up to main power. Pity they didn't enable power through the USB-C connector. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075ZS8X2X https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CBMLKFS
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