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sgreszcz last won the day on May 14 2016

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About sgreszcz

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  1. Yeah, I should probably use the expodisk and manually WB more often. I do do that for static/interview type shots, but for run-and gun and changing light (sunny/cloudy or sun/shade) I rely on AWB. The reason I'm getting a bit paranoid about that is that I was doing some shooting with one of my faders and got some nasty colour shifts that I didn't really notice when shooting. I'd like to stay consistent as possible. As convenient as the faders are for getting good exposure, I think the colours are better with fixed NDs. Also, I've been playing around with no ND at all and just cranking the shutter speed. Seems to work OK unless there is fast motion or water/splashing, etc. I just wish there were more internal NDs or lower ISOs. I can get away with a couple stops by shooting my GH5 in 4k/60 and 100ISO too.
  2. I have a question, not strictly about color grading, but I'm trying to put together a workflow for testing my ND filters for color fidelity before starting a long-term documentary project. I'm going to compare two different ND fader types (Heliopan, Aurora) and my fixed ND filters (Breakthrough 3/6/10 stop). Here is my plan, bur please tell me if I'm missing something or completely wrong: 1) Stick with a single lens, single camera with a set color profile (GH5, natural) 2) I'll be using my son as a model (for skin tone checking) and an X-rite color checker video passport. 3) Custom balance with an expodisk (or maybe better to just set the camera to a fixed sunny/5600k for consistency? 4) Expose the shots for the 28% grey at 50% IRE??? 5) Shoot some video at a few apertures (vary the shutter speed) without any ND filters as a baseline. 6) Take some video at various apertures with the ND filters - start at widest aperture (darkest ND) and stop down by 1 each time (varying the fader to get the right exposure) Here is where I especially need suggestions to see how "accurate" the images are: 7) Use vectorscope to see how well the colour patches "fit" as well as the skintones. How can I tell how much "shift" there is from the baseline? Thank you so much for any advice!
  3. After shooting events/weddings all day with the GH5, compared to the GX80 I can really notice the difference in my hand/wrist soreness.
  4. That’s mostly due to my magnetic xume holder for my NDs and 46-58mm step up ring stack.
  5. I’m on holiday with my gh5 and the PL12-60 zoom and really enjoying it for video and photography. With the 4k50 and ISO 100 you can get away with little or no ND and still use 180d shutter. The IBIS is pretty much Olympus-class for static shooting and I like the colour and image quality. I am at a family wedding today and got pulled into the role of hybrid photographer/videographer. Shot with the 12-60 zoom during the daytime and then a combo of 7.5mm, 15mm, and 42.5mm <f2.0 primes that fit in my dress shorts pockets. Didn’t need to go above ISO1600 which is good enough for me. The 4K crop mode and then Being able to further crop down for 1080p delivery is also great as is the 1080p slow-mostion. With a couple of instamics placed here and there for audio that tiny setup works great and what keeps me with micro4/3 when I consider wondering to Sony or Fuji. The Panasonic JPEGs and video colour are much better than they used to be too, since the GX80 was released. Before then I much preferred Olympus. Been considering an EM1 or EM5 (4K) A cam with EM10iii B cam (for the better IBIS, colour, and viewfinder) but going to stick with Panasonic GH5/GX80 for now.
  6. Well, that ‘update’ saved me some money. I had the original LX100 and loved it except for some funny colour and, bad evf, and not so great iOS. Was hoping for a mini gh5 to go with my real gh5, but I guess I stick with my gx80 as travel cam for a while longer...
  7. Do you suggest the 400 Mbps 422 10 Bit All intra 25 fps (1.9 MB per frame) or better to just use the 10 bit FHD All Intra 200 Mbps codec if you don't need 4k?
  8. There are some on Amazon that can do the DC conversion from a USB power bank. One of them has a dual feed so you can switch packs without using power. As long as you have a 3A AC/DC USB converter you can hook up to main power. Pity they didn't enable power through the USB-C connector. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075ZS8X2X https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CBMLKFS
  9. I use the PL15/f1.7 and the Laowa 7.5/f2 (and the 45-175 zoom) with my GX80 as a very small travel package. All lenses have the same 46mm filter size, so I used the same step-up to my 58mm NDs. On the Laowa, I get some obvious vignetting due to my filters and magnetic adaptors - will look at that for next time. I have an example when I'm walking with the 7.5mm using the GX80 IBIS - I was carrying a lot of beach stuff and probably could do better. Here are some unedited (4k 25fps 1/50s shutter, AWB) screen grabs shooting Cine-D from the 15mm (first 4) and 7.5mm (second 4).
  10. Hey @stv - I really liked the video. Much more creative and artsy than anything I can produce. Gave me a good feeling of what you saw and never having been to Japan myself, everything felt modern/familiar but very different and alien. I agree with everything that @mercer says about IBIS in Panasonic and Olympus cameras. The Panasonic is pretty good now, and the Olympus is outstanding. I switched to Panasonic from Olympus a few years ago when the GX80 came out with IBIS as I wanted the better video quality for a project that I was shooting. I just got the GH5 with 12-60/f2.8-4 with OIS as I was looking for a single-camera solution with a better EVF. I'm pretty sure the G85 would be good enough for what I do, but I got a great deal on a used GH5 in the US. I shot a carnival event with just that and the dual-IS worked great. I also just travelled with my GX80 (first gen Panasonic IBIS) and could get away with walking / moving carefully with my wide Laowa 7mm/f2. I also shot a lot with the same camera and 45-175PZ with OIS. The footage was quite stable (shake wise) even using 1080p 2x ETC mode (350mm) - no jitters but hard to keep frame from "swaying". I'm quite happy with the shots that I got. Now I just need to find time to edit and share. Like @anonim I have a Crane (M) that I tried with my GX80. It does great for adding stable motion, but it is not my style. I prefer a much more minimal setup as there is too much messing about and things to carry. (I mostly do event stuff or shoot family stuff when I have time on holidays). I'm just a video enthusiast (with another day job) that does small docs or events, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
  11. I really liked the vibe of your video and the feel with the diffuse light. Seems like more of an autumn/winter scene than summer . I'm Spain right now with my travel kit (GX80 + 15mm/1.7, 7mm/2.0 and 45-175mm powerzoom), although most of the video will be of my kids doing stuff - not sure how artistic I can make it - ha ha. I should try as people like Martin Wallgren do (linked) so I guess I need to try harder. How do you handle the outdoor/bright daylight scenes to get the shallow depth of focus with the Voigtlanders? Do you just up the shutter speed or use NDs? I have the same combo, but don't travel with them because of the wight and since I don't do much night stuff (small kids that get up early) I don't really need the large aperture.
  12. I would love something like this. I've spent too much already for VNDs (make people/video look quite matte/flat) or solid NDs (Breakthrough Photography) but need to pop them on/off with zume magnetic adaptors and only in 3 and 6 stops, so have less control of aperture/exposure. I'm still not sure why panasonic doesn't have an electronic ND built into their cameras like some of the higher-end sonys.
  13. Was considering the EM1-ii and EM10-iii (both 4k) for A/B(travel) cams. Better EVF, nicer colour out of the box, better stabilisation. However the GH5 with the 10-bit, 4k60fps, HD1080fps, ETC-crop mode, and ISO100 in video are really great features. Was shooting both the GH5 and GX80 with CineD and the same VND. The GH5 at 4k60fps, 100 ISO, and 180 shutter. Nice trick to need less ND. Next time, I'm going to go back to the Breakthrough Photography 3/6-stop NDs like I normally use as I think the image is more life-like than with the Heliopans - especially for something like a carnival.
  14. Hi fuzzynormal, How do you get such a wide aperture (0.95) with your VND? This weekend I shot an outdoor carnival event in the mid-day sun. With my 12-60/f2.8-4 and Heliopan 0.3-1.8 (six-stop) VND I was at around 50% to 2/3 strength on the filter. By the way, I liked the promo above. Pretty nice, smooth movement despite using only the GH5 IBIS. Do you notice much difference between the GH5 stabilisation and your old E-M5ii? I've been going back and forth between using a fixed breakthrough photography 3 or 6-stop filter with xume magnets, and the heliopan VND. The breakthroughs definitely seem to have more life in the shots and good colour, but you need to vary the aperture to get the right exposure. The VND definitely makes the image (especially people) look flatter or more "matte". I've been thinking of trying those new aurora VND on kickstarter as they go a little bit darker and maybe I can get away with larger-aperture primes. Always tradeoffs, as I wish the 12-60 had a wider aperture on the long end for easier shallow depth of focus. I used to like using the 35-100/2.8, for events but sold it with my second GX80 and bought a used GH5+12-60 to try and do it all with one camera. Maybe next time, I'll be brave like you @fuzzynormal and shoot the whole event with my 15/1.7 or 25/1.4 and rely on the GH5 4k ETC mode + 4k->1080p cropping in the edit to get more range... I've only just started editing, but I think that the Heliopan VND is keeping the colour quite true. I shot Cine-D with either auto WB or "sunny" and applied the Leeming LUT as a start. The vectorscope shows fairly good skintones. (Although I can only go by scopes as I'm colourblind). I think that I might push the saturation a bit and see if the colours of the costumes pop a bit more... Any suggestions would be highly appreciated!
  15. Hi Marcio, thanks for the reply. I just re-updated the firmware, re-calibrated the gimbal and now is is not juddering during tilt/crane shots (up down). Can you explain the three modes to me? When I start up it is in pan mode where you twist the handle and the gimble moves in that direction slowly. When I press the button again, the gimble seems to keep the camera in the original position as I move the handle. When I press it again (the second time) I'm not sure what it really does differently. Also, if you have any links to videos or whatever that show how best to practice shots with a gimbal, I'd appreciate it. What do you do for exposure when mounted on a gimbal? Auto exposure? I'm worried a bit if I'm in a mixed sunny/cloudy situation.
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