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Internal 32-bit float stereo paired with lossless 120mm reach from a 20mm lens — all inside a genuinely pocket-sized 10-bit 1-inch sensor gimbal camera? 1 2
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Nice images, was it overcast that day, they seem a little subdued ? or is that the lens combo you think ? A long way from the top is a good thing i reckon 🤔 Be careful with the at-x pro 24-70mm pro 2.8 there's 3 versions from memory. I forget how to tell which the "better" one is. Google would help no doubt. I also suspect the tokina 24-70 at-x pro's might be flying under the radar. I vaguely remember this lens getting a good rap and an almost cult like status in some video forums. Pentax forums is a handy place to visit... I must be cdo its like ocd but with the letters arranged alphabetically, like they should be 🙂 Would you believe i only just gave that lens a wipe over 😞. I also have had an ef-mft metabones xl speed booster 0.64 arrive. With my metabones the internal focus was way off and the internal element was free to rotate willy nilly. Completely the opposite to your speedbooster Kye. I suspect the screw that holds it tight is maybe either bent or stuck as i cant move it by hand. its also in the open position which allows the element to move freely. I also don't have a screwdriver that small either, so until one arrives, i have a temporary work around. The whole internal lens is losey goosey, i think theres about a half a millimeter of play. I know it seems like huge amount. However it really is quite loose, i can get a rattle out of it, if i shake it. Not sure if that is why it was up for sale, i suspect its been played with then sold when it became all to hard. I initially had the 17mm takumar mounted to it but i think in hindsight that probably wasn't helping, with the depth of field so i put the 50mm on it instead. I can wind the lens element almost all the way in and it becomes a tighter fit and i can get infinity focus ( i think ) i have to double check. No issues with mounting the 50mm on the metabones Here's a pic of the front of the metabones and back of the 50mm takumar. i used the 50mm as that measured the longest out of the measurements i took. There seems to be plenty of room between lens elements. I have the chipped ef mount on it and the back of the takumar barely protrudes, less than a millimeter i think, cant measure it as i tossed the digital calipers... it would be interesting to compare it to the back front of the viltrox. One interesting fact i picked up is that the Olympus em-10 ii and the em-1 iii do not like the ef adapter with the chip on it. The chip is supposed to tell the camera that its a 50 mm f1.4. I always figured some metadata would be nice even if it was wrong data at least i had a place to start. However the Olympus's simply refuse to start up, all i get is a grey screen. If i depress the lens lock mechanism and turn the adapter slightly ( and i presume ) the contacts no longer touch the the cameras will fire up and work. I have two other brands of camera and the chipped ef adapter works fine on them. I have no idea why i haven't noticed it before. The problem is tilting the camera in any direction indicates to the lens, it should try its best, to immediately fall off ( don't ask me how i know this )🙄 -
Further lens contemplation reminded me of my Tokina RMC 28-70mm F3.5-4.5 for m42 mount, which is deliciously imperfect, and when combined with an ultra-cheap wide-angle adapter gets even tastier.. I've struggled with this lens because the main issue with it is that it's a dumb lens and so there's no way for the cameras IBIS to know what focal length it's at. This is fine for tripod work, but that's not really how I shoot, and if it was tripod work is slow enough that I could just use primes. Then I realised that as I now own an EF speed booster I can get an EF zoom lens and it should report the current focal length to the camera and the IBIS challenge goes away. As such, I started looking for the absolute worst, most imperfect, least sharp, EF zoom lens I could find. Luckily, if you search ebay in ascending price it makes these gems obvious and you can peruse at your leisure. So I have now snapped up a lovely Tokina zoom that according to the Pentax forums has decidedly poor optical performance. Hooray!! Pics when it arrives, but I'm excited. I was also made aware of the existence of the Tokina AT-X PRO F2.8 zooms, which are interesting, but a long way from the top of the (price ascending) ebay search results. I also found a couple of the F2.6 Angie designs too, those were $3-4K.. wow!! Being famous on the internet sure makes things more expensive! -
Here's another from same 1st round of comparative tests: And about the Insta360 detachable screen vs DJI FrameTap remote: The sound in slowmo sounds just different enough too... Unlike the Osmo Pocket 4 / 4P (Pro), the Luna Ultra appears not only to provide 48 kHz AAC audio listed at a higher 32-bit depth — with true 32-bit float reserved for the external Mic Pro/transmitter — rather than standard 16-bit audio; it also appears to make 4K100/120fps available as a standard video mode, effectively usable as HFR when and where needed, captured as straight acquisition rather than pre-baked slow motion. That is a different proposition from restricting those frame rates to a dedicated slow-motion mode with more limited audio handling. So yes, both may offer “slow motion” (4K200/240fps with DJI) but audio-wise, this is more apples to oranges than apples to apples. And in slowmo, DJI does not appear to include built-in Mic Audio Backup either. That matters because, once high-frame-rate capture is baked into a dedicated slow-motion mode, the audio can no longer behave like normal sync sound unless the footage is brought back to real time. By contrast, 4K100/120fps as standard video mode is straight HFR acquisition: usable in real time with normal audio, or slowed down later in post. -
Well stated @eatstoomuchjam @kye :- )
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I haven't been able to download it, even after becoming a member of the DVXUSER forum.
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