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I'm amazed that not one response here has included the word "impedance". Generally, (in the realm of microphones) XLR gear is expecting a low impedance signal; and mini-plug gear is expecting a high impedance signal. I'd at least get a barrel-style XLR to 1/4 transformer adapter, and then add a 1/4 to 1/8 (though these days someone may make an XLR to 1/8?). The other issue is that those three pins each do something. Most camera-in jacks are TR (tip ring) for a mono input, or TRS (tip ring sleeve, three conducters) for a stereo input. I believe most DSLRs have a stereo mic input, but could be mistaken? So you have the potential for grounding problems as well. The design of the XLR connector is "purely for the stability of the connection" - it's pretty robust - but most XLR mics - and any you'd really want to use on-set - will be XLRs that are using the three pins to carry the standard low impedance signal. You can do low impedance with any three-conducter setup (1/4 TRS is popular) but mics for on-set audio (ecluding lavs) will use the full-sized XLR, will require phantom power, and will be low-z. Speaking of phantom power - some mics have an internal battery, but if not, you're limited to using dynamic mics which generally aren't used for film sound for a host of reasons. There's another current thread here dealing with this exact subject. Unless this is just a hobby for the OP, I'd say at the very least get a decent preamp that converts the XLR input to a preamped 1/8 output. And for probably the same money, you could get, say, a Tascam DR60D ($169 if you shop around, and showing up used all over), which has phantom power, mic power, meters, headphone and camera out level controls, minus 6DB safety tracks, low cut, a limiter, slate tone, etc. Far as I know it's about the best budget solution to beginner's audio needs, and the adjustable camera out allows you to stage your gain and at least try to get a clean and strong signal to the camera if you don't want to synch in post (and still have a nice clean recorder track if the camera audio isn't optimal). I imagine it would really up the quality of something like a blade as well. I know some of the monitor/recorders have audio ins and meters, but you're missing a lot of really necessary features - features that can really save your butt - and you're not talking investing thousand of bucks to get those features. If you're planning to charge money, I'd really recommend a pro solution, even something entry level like the DR - it will outlive your next ten cameras.

One still frame from unedited video shot in Cinestyle: Flat cat and two grade attempts. More frames Cinestyle ungraded and graded, 1DX mark II frame capture.

Two packages arrived today After touching the focus ring I really found out how i missed a real manual focus lens. This fly-by-wire stuff is just not real. Quick shot @f0.95 using the natural settings from @sgreszcz with film convert applied and some basic corrections: The whole cam just feels good. However, I found the white balance settings pretty inaccurate for now. I had to dial in the Kelvin setting for tungsten to get appropriate colors.

There is no reason to think now that there is a new "Gear for Sale" subforum will start moving people away from the general discussion. EOSHD runs I feel more like reddit - one super active forum - and not like DVXUser - which makes it more interesting. Also the mods, thank you guys, are more lenient when things get heated here. I don't think EOSHD is going to go anywhere. There's always a new Canon camera to make fun of.

Just received mine in the mail today (after selling 3 older cameras). I got the body-only model (599 Euros) with the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 (178 Euros). Somehow, I bought the German model in France... whatever. It seems like a good combo so far. I'll have to wait until Friday to post anything UHD, as I don't have a fast enough card. I'm liking the stills so far.

This shot is mind blowing, everytime I see it. I already started checking out that lens :D

an interesting proposition~! my first thought is: to improve your abilities in this department, i would highly recommend a two-dimensional design class~! for the uninitiated, the vast majority of what you would learn in such an environment applies to all two-dimensional imagery. a good teacher will demonstrate that fact with visual aids from throughout art history and contemporary work including painting, illustration, graphic design, photography, etc., in order to illuminate design elements and principles. thats my best ever advice for ALL photographers/filmmakers who havent been forced to do shit like that in art school already lol. seriously tho, many find the experience transformative not that i dont love black and white photography........ lol omg same. when im rich youll know it because ill have an outrageously expensive screenless monochrome rangefinder ?

what do u guys think of this?

Thanks for your kind words, DevonChris! I too think that this is one of my best shots. So after constantly checking for something even better I finally reckon that I had something that was very good and that I wasted quite some money over the last two years finding something that might be even better, yet eventually not for me. Learned the hard way.

I personally preferred the situation where nx1 was abandonware, since...it's abandonware even today, but more closed. They'll never start nx again, unless someone buys the mount. They could release a fw with some of the 50+ requests we did in the last year and half, but they preferred not to listen and instead to lock the mods. Just like they did in the past, they go their own route, never listening to customers. That's why they failed with nx and why most pros never took them seriously.

If you're indoors, you may have better and more natural sound with a hyper cardioid than a shotgun. Thing is, there aren't a lot of hypers out there. A budget favorite is the Oktava, but do some research and don't get a counterfeit mic, and learn about their handling issues. The At 4053b is the best "budget" value I'm aware of - but it's six hundred bucks. But if you have a studio, they're fantastic instrument mics as well and great for live sound. I've gotten good sound when testing a pencil condenser (I have an ADK SD) but I find the 4053 to be pretty amazing for detail and sparkle and presence - and off-axis rejection with a decent sweet spot. If you have a small di condenser, test it against the shotgun in your shooting environment. Go to DVXuser.com and poke around - they have one of the best audio-for-picture forums on the net. I'm still kind of amazed that Rode or someone doesn't do a $300-range hyper - maybe because newbies think any mic used to record audio on set is a "shotgun"? (Or maybe someone does, I haven't seen one). And an edit: looking at your links, you have two on-camera mount mics and one shotgun. I'd skip anything on-camera unless you're shooting events or just need sound to synch in post. You really want to get your mic as close to the talent as humanly possible. Unless you're shooting everyone with a 20mm and you're right in their faces, you need something off-camera. And the Rode blimp is really a very nice piece of gear, well designed and a great value for the money.

Easy choice. I did it already and bought 1DX mark II. I use Technicolor Cinestyle profile in the 1DX2 and it works just fine. Check my other post about those. Cinestyle flat cat frame is attached. Some Cinestyle testing:

Ive added the latest firmware to the NX1 Firmware History Folder: https://drive.google.com/a/cmcfirm.com/folderview?id=0Bwt0uzFgEoRkQ2ZLOUJOM295UGM&usp=sharing Also, still wondering if the Samsung Camera Manager App can be made to work with manual lenses for live view. It would be enormously helpful considering Samsung has only a few lens choices and the various adapters give us a much wider selection of options.

Instead of just a thread, how about a subforum?

This may also be of interest: http://***URL removed***/forums/post/57786472

What sort of stuff do you shoot? Does DR trump AF/60fps? I'm having a similar debate with myself.... I'm hoping Canon just give us C-log before I need to make my decision.... Other than C-log and 10bit, it is more or less my perfect camera.

If you need color accuracy, look for a monitor you can calibrate. Even a screen with blue-only will be a big step up in color if the adjustments let you get it close. If you're shooting DSLRs, you'll need a way to get clean bars into the thing via HDMI (by "clean" I mean they bypass computer color settings and send the edit window of your NLE out via HDMI) - but there are pretty affordable solutions like the Intensity card, so you can render up some bars in your NLE and adjust the screen. This is handy for editing as well - bolt a magic arm to your desk and use your on-camera screen to check color when editing.

As I posted earlier, no exposure shifts with a constant-aperture Nikkor zoom on the NX1.

The reason is that dvxuser has to many subforums. Ive seen it again and again. To many subforums kills forums. Most people, me included, only visit one section of a forum. I'm one of the biggest Blackmagic nerds online and have visited the Blackmagic section of Eoshd less than 10 times. On bmcuser 90% only checks into the general discussion. Have as many sub forums as you like, doesn't matter to me. But I suggest checking with experts first. I know I wouldn't bluntly create sections on a clients forum without analyzing if there are numbers to support it. Its not a decision to be made based on 10 regulars thinking its a great idea. Ask the hundreds of visitors that lurk, they are equally important.

But the 1DC "IS" nothing to go by. They are different cameras with different senors.

EOSHD has more views per month than dvxuser - and also trying to find and respond to gear for sale in a thread was incredibly difficult. This makes it much more organized. Also it is more searchable now.

just FYI, On the Panasonic AF100, you can set the EVF in B&W for easier focusing, but you can also set the recording mode to B&W. This allows for better compression of the images as the full 24 MBps are used for the Luma encoding only (i.e. the data not used for chroma can be used for additional information on luma channels). So I think it may be good in that case to record directly in B&W, but you have to get the look right in camera (which is always a good way to work IMO)

I operated like that for awhile and I just couldn't maintain it. To many times I would end up re-buying a lens I had previously sold to afford a new lens. When I realized eventually my kit had shrunk and I was just not using my glass, but just constantly evaluating it. Now I've pretty much gone the opposite extreme, I'm not selling anything unless I know I will never want to use the lens again. Slowly building up multiple sets of lenses and "looks".

I'm struggling with the decision to stay with my AiS set (and maybe add the 50 1.2), build up a Contax set or go all out for Leica R's. I foolishly sold my 35 and 90mm Summicrons about five years ago, and I'm missing them. Contax glass does rock. I shot this still for a gig last week using a 50mm 1.7 AEJ on a GX8 (using an adaptor, not speedbooster). The lens is amazingly sharp and has great colours as kidzrevil said.

Thats for sure! We are kind of searching for the holy grail. And once we found it, we try to trick us self in telling us there is an even better one :D Anyways, cant see your result with the contax glass!

It happens with all variable aperture electronic lenses, doesn't matter what camera. My tamron 17-50 2.8 doesn't do this, because it has a constant aperture (physically it could be called variable opening since at 50mm opening needs to be wider than at 17mm, to be at F2.8 like MountneerMan wrote). You could think - Ok, I'll just close the aperture to F2.8 (samsung 16-50 lens) and exposure shouldn't change, but it has to adjust the aperture from fully open @ 50mm, to 1 stop closed at 16mm. It cannot adjust the aperture smoothly, that's why there are jumps in exposure at those moments when it opens or closes the aperture. Try opening the lens to 2.0 and then detach the lens (just turn a bit so it doesn't have electronic contact), you should see no exposure jumps, just a smooth 1 stop transition while zooming. Then again, zooming from 16 to 50 with the lens attached correctly and aperture set to 2.0 in the wide end, there also should be no jumps in exposur. But a quick test on my 18-200 F3.5 - F6.3 showed that there are slight jumps, but far less noticeable than if I set the aperture to F6.3 at the wide end.

If the 1D C is anything to go by (it is, the 1D X Mark II has no advantage in low light over it), then the C100 Mk II isn't quite as good in low light, the larger sensor 1D X Mk II will be a bit cleaner at ISO 6400

You can always buy it and resell it, it sells fast.

This may be of interest: http://***URL removed***/forums/post/57785089

Agreed. I feel subforums can be beneficial and useful, when used right. But you need to strike a balance between too many and too few. Plus this balance is not static! It shifts and changes. A forum with a hundred users about stamp collection needs a different number of subforums to a forum with 100,000 users about marriage. Roughly speaking, the younger/smaller a forum is, the less subforums it should have. However as it grows, then it is ok to also grow the number of subforums, but at a slower rate than the growth of users! (don't want to have a relative oversupply of subforums to users. Also, other features can work in place of subforums, such as tags/categories. For instance Reduser has a subforum for 3rd Party Gear Sales, but within it has various tags for items such as [LIGHTING] (I really really wish there was a tag for [AUDIO] as well!).

Well its not really second, its more like 36th because they have already made profiles for 34 different cameras. great news none the less tho.

Jase, I've watched your Splash 2014 video five or six times and I love the way that you convey the atmosphere of the festival. If the GM1 and Voigt gave you the flexibilty and simplicity to tell the story so well, then I reckon that you've done the right thing in buying the Voigt again

YUP. I support an organized/categorized subforum for gear sales as long as we can keep it from getting out of control. Into it.

I can't say that I'm an expert, but I do have a slight background in it... The simple answer is there is no loss in quality... From what I've learned, XLRs give you more options in terms of mics (and their pick-up patterns). BUT, understand that just cause you have more mics to choose from with XLRs, does not mean you should be... some need phantom power, and I do not think the DSLR outputs that through their jacks, in fact... does any of the zoom line recorders have phantom power? Because, you need power or extra juice to power condenser mics and that might drain the battery. Otherwise, 3.5mm or XLR, both have the same sound feed.

I have to agree with everyone who has stated that Canon should have included C-Log on this camera (Canon, you need to hear your customers on this one). But nonetheless, I also have to confess that in spite of this, the 1DX Mkii is the best hybrid to date. And a much more compelling video camera than any other hybrid to date. While a case could certainly be made for a dedicated video camera like the FS7... as the price is pretty close, the fact remains there are places you can take a hybrid that you simply would not be allowed to take a dedicated video camera. Also it is weather-sealed, and in the real world that is important. I can easily carry the 1DX Mkii on a plane, and still have 60p, in a tank like body... that is reliable, works in less than ideal lighting, and I don't need a focus puller... even with a low f-stop. Nothing else on the market can make these claims. Not Blackmagic, not Red, Not Kinefinity, not Sony... Frankly not anyone. So if you want an on the go, rock solid reliable, weather-sealed, pro-level unit with 4k 60p this is the only option.

GX80 SKU in Europe: DMC-GX80 Body-only DMC-GX80EB-K (Black UK) DMC-GX80EG-K (Black Germany) DMC-GX80EF-K (Black France) DMC-GX80EB-S (Silver UK) DMC-GX80EG-S (Silver Germany) DMC-GX80EF-S (Silver France) DMC-GX80 + 12-32mm DMC-GX80KEB-K (Black UK) DMC-GX80KEG-T (Black Germany) DMC-GX80KEF-K (Black France) DMC-GX80KEB-S (silver UK) DMC-GX80KEF-S (Silver France) DMC-GX80KEB-T (Tan UK) DMC-GX80KEG-T (Tan Germany) DMC-GX80KEF-T (Tan France) DMC-GX80 + 14-140mm DMC-GX80HEF-K (Black France) DMC-GX80HEG-K (Black Germany) DMC-GX80HEF-S (Silver France) DMC-GX80HEG-S (Silver Germany) DMC-GX80 + 12-32mm + 35-100mm DMC-GX80WEB-K (Black UK) DMC-GX80WEG-K (Black Germany) DMC-GX80WEF-K (Black France) DMC-GX80WEB-S (Silver UK) DMC-GX80WEG-S (Silver Germany) DMC-GX80WEF-S (Silver France) DMC-GX80WEG-T (Tan Germany) DMC-GX80WEF-T (Tan France) Could help you looking for availability. Not sure if I got every model, though... Saw some silver models available in Belgium, no brown (tan) models yet.

+1 on for sale sub forum. on other topics it can indeed fracture the community, but for gear sale a single post per sale item makes sense. Works well over at reduser lenses has an argument for it too, as it's just such a big topic.

Imo, Don't start subforums, it is what kills forums in general. Just look at dvxuser. Most people, me included never visit subforums. There was even a thread started to summarize the progress so we didn't have to visit the nx1 forum, and it was started by the owner... And there isn't much stuff being sold anyway. Just IMO.

i'm not an expert, here's the suggested minimums. http://documents.blackmagicdesign.com/DaVinciResolve/DaVinci_Resolve_12_Beta_Configuration_Guide.pdf I have a GTX 980 ti 6GB and get realtime playback of HD RAW files until I get upwards of 5 or 6 nodes. that includes NR. the ratio of lens to camera here is amazing.

masochist.

I do

Hello, My name is Nyck Maftum, I am Brazilian, I recorded many music videos using the hack of nx1 for increased rate BitRate, I am grateful for the results achieved. Long live the NX1. Nx1 - Night Record 60p Musicvideo, using the hack on 160mbps Nx1 - Music Video Day hack on 200mbps

My list would be shorter. I'd be like... try: 1. selling your A6300 There's just no way I'm going to put up with a camera that gives me such hassle, even if it shits rainbows. I'd rather use a G7 and just deal with it. Respect if you go above and beyond to make it work for you with fans 'n schtuff though.

For more DR I would consider the BMMCC...

btw... is filming someone welding/cutting metal the high end equivalent of making a "cat in the garden" demo video?

4 hrs later... But on a more serious note... indeed good job on listening to the feedback and make amends.