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Internal 32-bit float stereo paired with lossless 120mm reach from a 20mm lens — all inside a genuinely pocket-sized 10-bit 1-inch sensor gimbal camera? 1 2 3 4
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My old Canon T2i has stopped remembering the date and time if the battery is removed. It Turns out there is a hidden internal backup rechargeable “button” battery, not mentioned in the manual. Luckily it is accessible, as seen here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Canon+EOS+Rebel+T2i+Clock+Battery+Replacement/139543 The battery is a Seiko MS614SE, not to be found in Canon’s support pages. After some effort I found a supplier that ships it in the USA: https://eu.mouser.com/en/ProductDetail/Seiko-Instruments-Micro-Energy/MS614SE?qs=vrQyzjTsotmt1bmGskqEPQ%3D%3D I will see if the new button battery fixes the problem. There may be more to it. There is also a similar thing going on with Fuji cameras. Starting earlier this year, my X-T3 will reset & lose my settings & the date If the camera is not turned off before removing the battery. There is a YouTube about it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vOv-xjUtzw In the X-T3, I do not see an access to a button battery like there is in the Canon T2i. -
GoPro ILS vs BMPCC OG... not a completely scientific test, but lots of shots in different scenes, so a good real-world comparison. -
By zerocool22 · Posted
Hi, I still own a dji ronin-s, but might upgrade to the dji ronin rs5 at some point. But I want to buy a monitor mount that would fit the dji ronin s as the dji ronin rs5. Does this exists? Any tips/experience? thanks! kr, -
Thinking of it as a Super-16 FILM camera represents an incredible opportunity when combined with the high-resolution sensor - zooming in post. My experiments with emulating S16 film showed that even a moderate amount of blur applied in post hides a huge amount of detail in the image. This means you can crop into the source image significantly and the blur will hide it. For example: If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then you'd get a ~35mm FOV at 6K, which you then blur. If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then crop 2x you'd get a ~70mm FOV at 3K, which you then blur and the blur hides the zoom in post. If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then crop 3x you'd get a ~100mm FOV at 2K, which you then blur and the blur hides the zoom in post. Depending on how much blur you applied (if you were going for a vintage 16mm look or a more modern 16mm stock emulation) I suspect you could zoom up to 4-6x in post before the digital nasties started being visible through the emulation. I don't know what kind of digital zoom the camera offers, but if it allows it then you could frame in-camera and not be throwing away bitrate when you crop in post. This gives two advantages: 1) It turns any prime into a zoom, perhaps even a 4-5x zoom - much more than the 2-3x fast zooms like 18-35 etc 2) if you crop in post then you can apply additional stabilisation, making it feel a lot larger than the tiny camera it is I suspect that mostly this advice will fall on deaf ears, as people are drastically afraid of softening their images, like they'll be punished in the afterlife for it. When I saw Goodfellas in the cinema on 35mm film projection, it looked like somewhere between 720p and SD - and that was a 35mm feature film!! The amount of blur to accurately reproduce even a semi-ballpark 16mm film emulation is beyond most modern thinking, but if you can wrap your head around the concept then the ILS can become a drastically useful camera.
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By eatstoomuchjam · Posted
For me, 6K is ideal - I don't lose detail when reframing and even with some denoising, a lot of the fine detail sticks around. Really, for anything from 4K through 8K, it's fine for me. 4K just means I have to be more careful with my frame and 8K means using a bit more disk space (which I have plenty of for now, hope hard drive prices come down someday, though). But yeah, the frame rates are fantastic. They're one of the big reasons that Camera Conspiracies loves his M1P ILS so much.
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