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Happy Daze

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  1. 2 available. Might interest someone??!! I took a Kecay Tamron-NX (for Tamron Adaptall 2 to Samsung NX) mount and customised it by fitting a lens collar with tripod mount. Some of the Adaptall 2 lenses are heavy and I made this to take the pressure away from the camera. I have used this successfully on my NX1, NX300, and NX3000 without a problem. There is Youtube video below that shows me assembling them. https://www.ebay.fr/itm/233112857952 https://www.ebay.fr/itm/233112862831
  2. Selling some Samsung NX lenses, bodies and a Flash: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/pauloffrance/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= All in very good condition and at reasonable prices, will send within European Union. Cheers.
  3. Hi Fletch, "Flashing", "Reinstalling" same thing. Before or after firmware flashing did you reset the camera? You will find "Reset" in the fourth Menu (The Cog). I would suggest that the best practice for any firmware upgrade is to reset the device before and after flashing, can't hurt to try. If this does not improve things then it is probably a hardware fault and from what you say it is most likely that the Mode switch at fault (as reported by others around the inter-web). Some say squirting switch cleaner under the dial has helped but I have serious doubts that the fluid will reac
  4. Hi Fletch Seriously, why not try resetting and re-flashing the firmware? Are you actually looking for a cure? It could save you a lot of unnecessary pain and grief. I can pretty much guarantee that if you have to send this camera to a service centre this is likely the first thing that they will try. It's very easy to do and would eliminate software as an issue and may point towards a hardware fault for which you will not find a cure in this forum, regardless of how many tests you undertake or videos that you produce. I don't get why you ask for help and then completely ignore advice
  5. Personally I would reset the camera and then re-flash the latest firmware 1.41, it seems that you have a software glitch that hopefully this will correct. https://matteverglade.com/cameras/nx-firmware/ Good luck.
  6. You are correct Pavel, as far as negative RGB is concerned highlight control is a problem. The histogram shows that the highlights are well within range but they are in reality clipping at a lower level than 255 more like 235/245 that's why everything above these levels is a flat grey.
  7. My Observations. This is just my take on the colour boost setting. I set up a small high contrast studio scene to judge the affect of full colour boost and have come to this conclusion: At colour boost 1.99 (with -1 exposure compensation) compared to 0.00 (standard exposure) the highlights and Blacks actually increase fractionally, therefore decreasing the dynamic range slightly. To combat this I have set the colour boost to 1.90 and the Master Black Level to +5. I still expose at -1 stop which has centred the histogram with no clipping for the scene that I created. Now the
  8. Yes, but I only tried it briefly, much prefer the standard colour gamma.
  9. Yes you are right. As I said in an earlier post the highlights are actually blown/clipping but at a lower level than 255, even though the scopes appear fine. I believe that the method of lowering the color settings and increasing exposure is failed, BUT in reverse: take color settings to +1.99 and reduce exposure (-1, -1.30) then this proves to have benefits, which you can read from the other posts in this thread. I normally adjust colour as well to be different form standard as I found some colours were just over the top, so sure you can vary them slightly for the same benefit. But I
  10. That is exactly what happens. You get 1 extra stop which reduces the ISO required for the same exposure and the noise reduces accordingly.
  11. Very pleased that you like the discovery. It may be my imagination but I am also noticing an improvement in auto-focus speed/accuracy and a reduction in cadence. The colours for me are a definite improvement and there is most surely an improved dynamic range. A much more pleasing picture in many respects. I feel like I have new camera, weird!!?? The exposure compensation varies with lighting conditions, but I do find that -5 contrast is also quite flattering. Cheers, Paul.
  12. Testing outside using the new profile, it's very overcast here at the moment, I found my self switching between negative 1.0 and 1.3, but compared to the same scene with Picture Wizard off there is more dynamic range. Also there is at least 1 stop more to be gained which could prove invaluable in failing light. I hope that you test this and share your results. I have not tried adjusting any other settings which I have left at standard. This may also work for the gamma DR profile as well, more tests are needed. I will be using this profile for the next few weeks just to see if it is r
  13. OK, so I strongly believe that you can gain an extra whole stop in low light by using method 2. Profile settings: color R G B +1.99, contrast -5, Saturation -1, Sharpness -10 (the contrast, saturation & sharpness are to taste but I find the contrast at -5 produces flatter more realistic results). Once you set the profile you can achieve a similar exposure to standard by using negative -1 exposure compensation. Note how the ISO drops as a result of the negative exposure compensation yet when scenes from standard and this custom profile are compared there do not appear to be any d
  14. Method 2 is producing some surprising results indoors. Just for fun turn the color in the profile to full 1.99 on all 3 colours. Now use a negative exposure comp to bring the scene to the same level as would be the standard exposure profile. The ISO for capture is much lower and the noise is much less using the custom method compared to standard exposure. Anyone else?
  15. I have just had a chance to test outside. It's very overcast so contrast between ground and sky is wide. What I have noticed is that the highlights are still clipping but at a lower level than with standard exposure which seems to fail the process. BUT.... Try turning the colour controls in the profile to a POSITIVE figure +1.20/1.30 (or whatever) and then use negative exposure compensation to protect the highlights. This give a smoother curve than both the first method and standard exposure. The shadows appear brighter whilst the highlights don't appear to burn and the scopes look smooth
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