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It actually feels like it's in a softer set of threads, so it's not like metal on metal where it grips and then slides easily, this just requires a certain level of force to get it to move and once moving it requires the same force to keep it moving. I would absolutely never ever put something like WD-40 into an optical assembly! Not only would it potentially dissolve or melt any plastic it comes into contact with, but solvents can 'wick' into things and spread across surfaces (especially bad if those surfaces are on the inside and you can't get at them to clean them), and solvents will evaporate and likely fill every void or space with fumes, which can potentially condense on the surfaces of the lenses and dissolve the coatings etc. I've glued things together before with PVA glue, which is water based, and after the glue had dried (ie, the water in it evaporated) it had condensation all over the sensor and lens etc. I set it on a windowsill in the sun to dry for a few days and it cleared up fine, but I think that was mostly because it was water and that didn't interact in any way with the lens or sensor elements. -
Speaking of the dials registering the wrong way, I've mostly noticed that on dials when you rotate them quite slowly, so it seems like trying different speeds might be the best strategy. It's also good to get a decent light source and look over the surface of it by looking at the reflections as you rotate it. I'd be looking for any evidence it's been dropped etc, especially on anything that's meant to move like the buttons or dials etc, but also on the corners. I dropped my GF3 on one of its corners and as it's a metal chassis it just got a little flat spot and wrinkle, but you can feel it if you pay attention.
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I was going to suggest one of those friction clothes, mum has a few in the kitchen drawer for hard to open jam jars. If that didn't work, one drop of wd-40 on the threading left to sit over night, only one drop mind you as you dont want to find out that wd-40 might be also good at delaminating glass elements -
By eatstoomuchjam · Posted
The faster the lens being boosted, the more likely you'll have some speed booster artifacts. Even with Metabones, I don't think I'd go past 1.2. If you really wanted to go that way, and it's off-topic for this thread, but I'd suggest looking at the Voigtlander 29/0.8 which, IIRC, is native for M43. -
Wow - that's one hell of a sun star! You could use that to gain both power and respect on the entry-level stills photography sites.. they'd fall on their knees before you!! After going through the exercise of seeing what EF glass was out there I didn't see a lot of options that tempted me, so I suspect that I'll just end up leaving it attached to the Zeiss 50/1.4 and that will be that. If the image from the Zeiss is half as good as the lens' physical construction then it would be worth buying the Viltrox just to use with the Zeiss lens alone! Someone else pointed out that the Viltrox is probably only capable of F1.2 at maximum, so that would mean the Mikaton 50mm F0.95 lens is out of the running, and it was the only other thing I was really tempted by.
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