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To those like me, this is the most important day of the year, so my best wishes to everyone! -
By eatstoomuchjam · Posted
(Cross-posted from reddit) I've been working on and off for a while now on a Leica M mount for the Ursa Cine 12K LF. I was having problems with minor flexing in the plastic - and the random Micro 4/3 to M mount adapter that I used as a donor turned out to be a bad choice for a few reasons. In the meantime, I found some ways to mitigate the plastic flexing and I disassembled a Fotodiox L mount to M mount adapter and found it a lot more suitable, plus with a larger diameter which also seems to help with stability. Because of shape of mount cavity on the camera, the lens also needs to be mounted upside-down with my mount. Unfortunately, there is some play in the adapter so any lens will need support if racking focus. This latest prototype still focuses just a little too much past infinity with the f/1 Noctilux so I have one or two more prototypes to dial it in just a little closer - and then I'll switch from the cheapest PLA in my house to PCCF and print what I hope will be the adapter that I actually use. Limitations? Every modern Leica M lens that I own (21, 24, 35mm) that is 35mm or wider cannot be used. They stick out past the rear of the mount and would impact the glass in front of the ND filters. Similarly, with my Simera-C set, However, my incredibly old 35mm/3.5 Elmar does not protrude and, as can be seen in the couple of snapshots I took from the last round of testing, works great (and is beautiful, as it is on any camera). That's the widest L mount lens that I own that can fit. HOWEVER While using my M mount glass is part of my goal in building this, the bigger bonus is that having a Leica M mount lets me adapt a bunch of other vintage SLR glass that is not otherwise usable (without mount conversion) on the UC12K LF. And since those lenses were designed for SLR's, the wide angles don't protrude. This will address one of the few things that I've found to be a bummer - I really love my FD mount and Minolta SR mount glass! With an FD to M mount adapter, they will all be 100% usable now. In this round of testing, I checked the 50/1 Noctilux and the 35/3.5 screw mount Elmar - both are gorgeous lenses on any camera that I've put them on and this is no exception. Did some 3:2 frame grabs from Resolve with no grading done beyond slapping on a BMD film to rec.709 lut. I also seem to have done the math wrong for a 3:2 ratio in Resolve, but I'm also not going to bother going back to fix the slight letterboxing. -
I don’t advocate the use of technology — whether AI or anything else — without human intervention, obviously. The same here. It’s useless to debate this on its own, I guess : ) No doubts. Man, I am the guy who hates those bloody camera menus, let's not forget it! LOL Moreover, this oversimplifies the whole story. Not fair to anyone, AI included : D
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I've been using it extensively with my Canon R6! Really cool device. Definitely one of the best gyro loggers I have used. It substantially reduces the inconvenience of using an external gyro logger; on supported cameras it will read lens info and focal length from the metadata, eliminating the need for you to make custom lens profiles or be at super specific focal lengths. You create two sync files, then you let the Niyien A1 record continuously. You then can just record as normal on your camera. The Niyien tool will auto sync everything! I ran into a few issues at first, but they were eliminated by making sure I was using a fast enough micro SD card and adding a 1.0 sec sync offset to the gyro data in Niyien tool; seems without that the gyro data will slowly drift. I think it's just a timing thing with the R6. But yeah, it works great. I personally have a very solid heel-toe walk and handheld technique, so for me with careful walking I can use the Niyien A1 and reduce the sensitivity down to 2-4%. This has two advantages; #1, I can drop my shutter speed as low as 1/60. This looks very close to 1/50 or 1/48 for 24p footage, effectively giving me natural motion blur in camera. With careful movements and low sensitivity, there is not too much motion blur artifacts, so it lets me have a near 180 degree shutter! 1/125 shutter for 4k60 stuff works great. Again, I have a very very solid handheld walk so this works for me. #2, when keeping the smoothness at around 2-4%, the crop is very minimal, around 1.2-1.3x. That's not bad at all. Almost all of the video below was filmed on my Canon R6 using the Niyien A1. The final sequence was actually all 24p footage with a 1/60 shutter! -
By Aussie Ash · Posted
There is also Chinese camera manufacturers like DJI,Insta360 and Z-cam capturing specialised market share
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