EOSHD

Welcome to the EOSHD forum. The knowledge-base for all mirrorless, DSLR and pro video cameras.

Subforums

  1. ANAMORPHIC

    The largest online community devoted to anamorphic filmmaking.
    Discuss lenses, adapters, workflows and post lenses for sale

    7,255
    posts
  2. BLACKMAGIC CINEMA CAMERAS

    Raw shooting cameras - URSA Mini 4.6K, BMCC, BMPCC and more

    945
    posts
  3. SHOOTING

    Screening room and the creative side of filmmaking - share your ideas / stories

    1,511
    posts

5,706 topics in this forum

    • 1,153 replies
    • 66,820 views
    • 92 replies
    • 8,866 views
    • 200 replies
    • 12,693 views
    • 37 replies
    • 1,982 views
    • 423 replies
    • 12,391 views
    • 6 replies
    • 120 views
    • 268 replies
    • 15,385 views
    • 27 replies
    • 766 views
    • 11 replies
    • 397 views
    • 59 replies
    • 2,798 views
    • 140 replies
    • 5,681 views
    • 112 replies
    • 3,145 views
    • 2 replies
    • 28 views
    • 25 replies
    • 660 views
    • 2 replies
    • 73 views
    • 10 replies
    • 276 views
    • 19 replies
    • 599 views
    • 6 replies
    • 59 views
    • 57 replies
    • 1,175 views
    • 59 replies
    • 1,181 views
    • 90 replies
    • 3,998 views
    • 3 replies
    • 145 views
    • 14 replies
    • 1,068 views
    • 1 reply
    • 54 views
    • 20 replies
    • 629 views
  • Popular Contributors

  • Forum Statistics

    • Total Topics
      8,463
    • Total Posts
      111,617
  • Member Statistics

    • Total Members
      23,042
    • Most Online
      3,616

    Newest Member
    gkwoo
    Joined
  • Posts

    • Your ideal NX1 Settings
      Appreciate it ! Your work is awesome btw No mbl ! Just -2 saturation. Im going to test with good old 0-255 next because I see there is a jump in brightness with 16-255. I think the 0-255,16-235 & 16-255 have the same data its just read different by the nle. Try doing your tests with 0-255. for an in camera "grade" like the osiris vision x or kdx lut, try shifting the hues to the left. It changes reds to a more pink color and blues to a teal color. Its the same result you'll get when applying a lut
    • Your ideal NX1 Settings
      Used my MF Nikkors for the first time and am really happy with them. Also used the Vizelex ND Throttle Adapter and happy with that too !!  EOSHD LOG conversion LUT. OSIRIS Vision X LUT from VisionColor. Nikon 24/2.8 Ai-S, Nikon 35/2 Ai-S, Nikon 50/1.4 Ai-S, Nikon 105/2.5 Ai-S. Default Gamma DR settings with sharpening set at -10. MBL = 0, 16-235.    
    • A7s 2 vs. 1DC - Must choose one TOMORROW Please Help
      Yes the image can match in terms of colour in post... A7S II just takes more expertise. The A7S II gives you almost everything on a plate but yet doesn't fully feel satisfying sometimes. I cannot quite put my finger on it. Maybe it is the way certain scenes like S-LOG exposed a certain way for best results and you really don't get a lot of help from the camera in knowing when to expose which way. It has to be spot on. Then the footage off the card looks thin, green-tinted grey and you have to work hard in post or find the right LUT... and even then sometimes after many hours I am still tinkering over the mouse and keyboard not quite fully satisfied. The standard pic profiles are C.R.A.P. S-LOG 3 can't do skies and walls. Canon LOG is far superior and the MJPEG codec at 500Mbit/s is 5x the bitrate of the A7S II's 4K codec so it feels thicker with a finer more film like noise grain, it is also 4:2:2. Colour really is outstanding on it, it seems the debayer on the Canon body has some secret recipe to reign in green, boost reds and blues. Green photosites on a bayer sensor outnumber the red and blue ones. I don't feel Sony have a handle on this yet like Canon or Fuji do, and a Foveon sensor beats a bayer sensor for colour and tonality hands-down. You really notice when you see the difference. The 1D C is certainly the better built body and feels more pro, the A7S II has a charmless feel and cheap feel to the dials and buttons. Overall I think the image on the 1D C is more cinematic and the grain is finer, with 12,800 being perfectly usable. The A7S II is a smoother more digital look. Sony's menus are complex and the camera has a busy feel sometimes on a shoot. On the 1D C there are hardly any options on the camera to think about. Shame the files are enormous on the 1D C and it has no EVF or articulated screen. Also you can't punch in for focus during a shot. Battery grip helps the A7S II, bulking up the handling whilst doubling the battery life in-between swapping cells. IBIS on the A7S II works like IS on Canon lenses, it isn't a revelation like the Olympus system but it's a nice bonus.
    • A7s 2 vs. 1DC - Must choose one TOMORROW Please Help
      I just sold the 1D-C after 3 years of good use and bought an A7s2.
      That said, if you wont shoot in the artic or desert AND if you enjoy a lighter load and focus as well as exposure tools definitly get the a7s2. PLUS:
      -  yes the color is a tiny bit better on the 1DC, but you can get very near quite easily if you grade properly (and its not rocket science)
      - the 1DC price is to expensive ( I sold mine for 4000,-€ inkl 3 Batteries and I found myself lucky)
      - The 1DC has a SERIOUS problem nobody writes about (expect one thread on dvxuser): after a while you get hotspots on the sensor if you shoot log over 1600ISO. I had this on my first body and got a new one after months of hussling with the otherwise great canon professional service. It is now fixed by a simple blackbalance BUT this can only be done by canon and they charge you 100+ € for it. The a7s2 can be black balanced easily by setting the date (google it) and does it anyway once a month. It is a shame canon never released a firmware update fixing this. (They rather exchanged my body while i was still in warranty)
      - for the spare cash get the 3 Loxia lenses. With them resolution wise the image is up there with the 1DC and L Primes and you can shoot handled with the focus tools (focus zoom while filming! Yeah! Still impossible on the 1DXmk2). They are superligth (I lugged my canon primes around for years and its like a dream come true) AND (drumroll please) they all have the same filterthread (One ND) and the same placement of focus and aperture ring. Oh, did I mention you can declick with one turn of a screw? (And with the IBIS handheld shooting is better than with the Canon IS lenses). And they have a bit of weather sealing as well (not as good as a 24-70 2.8, but enough to get that shoot even when it starts to rain a bit) - The battery life of the camera is not as bad as I expected it to be after all the horror stories floating around. If you turn on flight mode, one battery runs around 70 mins for me. the BIG 1DC batteries held up for about 2- 2,5 Hours so essentially the same. And you can power via USB.
      Maybe battery life is less when using adapters and 3 party lenses? Could be, as the adapter needs power and the lenses need power too. So, in the end the only two things that would make me lean to the 1DC again is if I need more than 30mins cont. recording OR if I would shoot in really really harsh conditions ( i mean like sandstorm or polar expedition conditions) - I all fairness the MJPEG codec makes movement look nicer, more cinematic, dont know exactly how to express that, but after 1 week i am confident to get very near with the a7s2 and its a load lighter, MUCH better in lowlight, has proper video tools, a great EVF (no viewfinder needed) etc etc etc...

      Still, the 1DC image is great and I love the stuff the shoot with it. In 2013 and 2014 there was no better camera for me. I tried the A7s and hated it. But in 2016, choosing between 1Dc and A7s2  - A7s2 ll the way.
         
    • A7s 2 vs. 1DC - Must choose one TOMORROW Please Help
      I agree with Rich - you should 100% go for the A7SII, especially since it's a music video.  A7SII advantages are:  - IBIS (awesome!)  - 50p and 100p for slow motion.  - Small size, easy to transport.  - Much smaller file sizes.  - E mount, adapting lenses is easy.    You will have to factor in these things though:  - Battery life is very, very poor. I go through around 8 batteries per shoot. I'd recommend getting some USB powerpack if battery charging is an issue.  - Get a 5" monitor for the hotshoe. I find the back LCD quite hard to use. I have the Sony CLM-FHD5 and it's a revelation.  On Slog2 - it takes practice but it's awesome in the right conditions. In lowlight, use another profile like Cine2 or Neutral with PP off.