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    • My old Canon T2i has stopped remembering the date and time if the battery is removed. It Turns out there is a hidden internal backup rechargeable “button” battery, not mentioned in the manual. Luckily it is accessible, as seen here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Canon+EOS+Rebel+T2i+Clock+Battery+Replacement/139543 The battery is a Seiko MS614SE, not to be found in Canon’s support pages. After some effort I found a supplier that ships it in the USA: https://eu.mouser.com/en/ProductDetail/Seiko-Instruments-Micro-Energy/MS614SE?qs=vrQyzjTsotmt1bmGskqEPQ%3D%3D I will see if the new button battery fixes the problem. There may be more to it. There is also a similar thing going on with Fuji cameras. Starting earlier this year, my X-T3 will reset & lose my settings & the date If the camera is not turned off before removing the battery. There is a YouTube about it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vOv-xjUtzw In the X-T3,  I do not see an access to a button battery like there is in the Canon T2i.     
    • GoPro ILS vs BMPCC OG...  not a completely scientific test, but lots of shots in different scenes, so a good real-world comparison.  
    • Hi, I still own a dji ronin-s, but might upgrade to the dji ronin rs5 at some point. But I want to buy a monitor mount that would fit the dji ronin s as the dji ronin rs5. Does this exists? Any tips/experience?   thanks! kr,  
    • Thinking of it as a Super-16 FILM camera represents an incredible opportunity when combined with the high-resolution sensor - zooming in post. My experiments with emulating S16 film showed that even a moderate amount of blur applied in post hides a huge amount of detail in the image.  This means you can crop into the source image significantly and the blur will hide it. For example: If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then you'd get a ~35mm FOV at 6K, which you then blur. If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then crop 2x you'd get a ~70mm FOV at 3K, which you then blur and the blur hides the zoom in post. If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then crop 3x you'd get a ~100mm FOV at 2K, which you then blur and the blur hides the zoom in post. Depending on how much blur you applied (if you were going for a vintage 16mm look or a more modern 16mm stock emulation) I suspect you could zoom up to 4-6x in post before the digital nasties started being visible through the emulation.  I don't know what kind of digital zoom the camera offers, but if it allows it then you could frame in-camera and not be throwing away bitrate when you crop in post. This gives two advantages: 1) It turns any prime into a zoom, perhaps even a 4-5x zoom - much more than the 2-3x fast zooms like 18-35 etc 2) if you crop in post then you can apply additional stabilisation, making it feel a lot larger than the tiny camera it is I suspect that mostly this advice will fall on deaf ears, as people are drastically afraid of softening their images, like they'll be punished in the afterlife for it.  When I saw Goodfellas in the cinema on 35mm film projection, it looked like somewhere between 720p and SD - and that was a 35mm feature film!!  The amount of blur to accurately reproduce even a semi-ballpark 16mm film emulation is beyond most modern thinking, but if you can wrap your head around the concept then the ILS can become a drastically useful camera.
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