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Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K


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My dear erstwhile member can you please stop attacking John Brawley now. I have long since given up on camera forum arguments so might not be completely up on who is right and who is wrong-evil /

I like the pictures. A lot.  This camera will probably replace the micro cinema camera for me as it’s not much bigger and is much easier to work with.  I didn’t feel as strongly about the 4K

What a shame. Who are these "deep state" BMD insiders that are here pushing an agenda ? Myself and Hook.  Who else ?  What do you guys think, there's a plot and conspiracy ?  You guys don't wat t

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46 minutes ago, xzobinx said:

any knows which store has this battery and ships to Australia? Thinking about switching to this power option when my shinobi arrives 

@xzobinx I am sure that you know this already but, the 12V port on the camera is designed to take 12V-20V. The battery outputs 8.4V-6V. I am surprised that the camera even turns on with only 8V plugged into the 12V port. I suggest that you get a 12V output battery sled like this one: https://amzn.to/2Fp0I4u  I have 3 and they work fine for me. I also use dtap straight from a v-mount battery to the 12V port and it works great. The camera lasts basically all day with one big v-mount battery.

If you run a cord straight from the battery, I recommend that you use a dummy battery. The camera is designed to use lower voltages from the battery port. If you use a dummy battery, you will also lose the ability to hot swap your battery during a long shoot.

I have 15-20 of those batteries and they work great. I have had only had one of them die over the past 2 or three years of regular use. I have the batteries numbered, but I don't keep track of when I buy them, so I have no idea how long the batteries lasted before dying.

IIRC, I think that Tom Antos mentioned killing some of his monitors that provide power to the camera because of the heavy power draw from the BMPCC4K, so I would hesitate trying to draw power from the monitor.

Unfortunately, I can't recommend a store that will ship those to Australia.

 

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1 hour ago, drm said:

@xzobinx I am sure that you know this already but, the 12V port on the camera is designed to take 12V-20V. The battery outputs 8.4V-6V. I am surprised that the camera even turns on with only 8V plugged into the 12V port. I suggest that you get a 12V output battery sled like this one: https://amzn.to/2Fp0I4u  I have 3 and they work fine for me. I also use dtap straight from a v-mount battery to the 12V port and it works great. The camera lasts basically all day with one big v-mount battery.

If you run a cord straight from the battery, I recommend that you use a dummy battery. The camera is designed to use lower voltages from the battery port. If you use a dummy battery, you will also lose the ability to hot swap your battery during a long shoot.

I have 15-20 of those batteries and they work great. I have had only had one of them die over the past 2 or three years of regular use. I have the batteries numbered, but I don't keep track of when I buy them, so I have no idea how long the batteries lasted before dying.

IIRC, I think that Tom Antos mentioned killing some of his monitors that provide power to the camera because of the heavy power draw from the BMPCC4K, so I would hesitate trying to draw power from the monitor.

Unfortunately, I can't recommend a store that will ship those to Australia.

 

thanks for the head up. I'm aware of your concerns 

-the 8v should be able to run the camera but not be able to turn it on. So it requires a battery inside the camera at all time. This is similar to using a Sony NP power sled without step up transformer built in. I do have a sony NP power sled and other battery option like the batbox 4k but I'm looking for a smaller setup with a monitor. 

-Tom Antos did fired a couple of his monitors. However, he power it through the 8v dc out of the monitor. My plan is actually power form the dc out of the battery.

-They used to have an older version of the battery with 12v dc out which would be perfect. Unfortunately they "upgrade" it   :(

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On 3/21/2019 at 3:47 AM, MeanRevert said:

Can anyone recommend a good LUT pack out there?

I agree with @JordanWright to start with the ones included in Resolve.  Specifically the Film Look LUTs.

Or design your own in Resolve - Juan Melara consistently shows that it's capable of enormously sophisticated adjustments:

 

 

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27 minutes ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

Wish they had a Lut for those working in other programs like Premiere. 

Open the Resolve settings go to 'Color Management' - scroll down a little to Lookup Tables and then click 'Open LUT Folder'. Then you can copy whatever LUT you want and copy it to Premiere's LUT folder and away you go.

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On 3/20/2019 at 11:02 AM, CaptainHook said:

Resolve 15.3 has a build of SDK 1.3 which does support LUTs in the sidecar, they just need to be manually placed in the sidecar at this time (we would like to add the ability to add LUTs to the sidecar through the Resolve UI in a future update).

That's good to know, but for now it's forcing me to forgo LUTs all together, and only use them for monitoring on location. In the long run, this can only be a good thing for me personally. That said, LUTs built into the sidecar will undoubtedly be beneficial.

On the subject, do you know if the Raw Player will one day have the ability to toggle the sidecar, so we don't need to close the application, move the sidecar and then reopen? 

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34 minutes ago, Kisaha said:

"Autofocus is enabled for Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K but performance may not meet expectation."

I guess its better than nothing.

LOL...I am surprised that they put that but, yes. The AF *isn't* great. But at least it does work. There is no continuous AF, but the touch to focus does work. AF didn't work at all before, so I will take it.

I estimate that the AF is about 1/2 the speed with a Metabones lens as it is with a native lens. But, again, it works :)

 

By the way, here are the links to the Windows & Mac versions of the firmware to enable AF on the Metabones adapters for anyone who wants it:

WIN: https://www.metabones.com/article/of/EF-M43_Firmware_Win

MAC: https://www.metabones.com/article/of/EF-M43_Firmware_Mac

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19 minutes ago, Emanuel said:

Yes, it works : ) That huge monitor coupled to their tiptop focus assist is so efficient, I doubt you'll want to touch the screen to acquire focus... ; -)

A few days ago, I had my cams up high, with my tripods fully extended, shooting over a crowd at people on a stage. Manually focusing was very difficult, as I was well below the screen on the back of the camera.

Touch focus, came in really handy in that situation. I used it several times during that shoot. I could have used the app to focus with my phone, but I had several cameras running and didn't want to keep switching between each camera in the app. Having multiple ways to focus is a great feature.

I would love to have an external touch monitor, like my SmallHD, that I could use to interact with the camera. Alternatively, I would like to have a way to easily switch between cameras in an app. I almost always run a 3 cam set. 

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Sure, horses for courses : -)

5 minutes ago, drm said:

A few days ago, I had my cams up high, with my tripods fully extended, shooting over a crowd at people on a stage. Manually focusing was very difficult, as I was well below the screen on the back of the camera.

Touch focus, came in really handy in that situation. I used it several times during that shoot. I could have used the app to focus with my phone, but I had several cameras running and didn't want to keep switching between each camera in the app. Having multiple ways to focus is a great feature.

I would love to have an external touch monitor, like my SmallHD, that I could use to interact with the camera. Alternatively, I would like to have a way to easily switch between cameras in an app. I almost always run a 3 cam set. 

 

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6 minutes ago, MeanRevert said:

Any of you guys running into problems with really low volume on the mic port? 

Yes, you need to use a self powered mic that has at least +10 or even better +20db on it. The Rode Videomic Pro and Pro+ have that, and a few others. Unfortunately, the VideoMicro requires plugin power, which this camera doesn't provide. You can record with it, but you'll get a very quiet signal, which you can boost / noramlize in post, but that will also bring up the noise floor. 

I've heard many people, Curtis Judd for example, aim to record at around -18db and then boost in post. So if your mic can get you around that level, according to that theory, it's fine. I would still find that quite limiting, as it's better to use a louder mic and turn the input down in camera. That way you can reduce the noise floor from the camera's preamp when you push it in post.

Alternatively, you could try running your mic into the XLR port, which is said to be 6 - 12 db louder than the 3.5mm jack.

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31 minutes ago, Anaconda_ said:

Yes, you need to use a self powered mic that has at least +10 or even better +20db on it. The Rode Videomic Pro and Pro+ have that, and a few others. Unfortunately, the VideoMicro requires plugin power, which this camera doesn't provide. You can record with it, but you'll get a very quiet signal, which you can boost / noramlize in post, but that will also bring up the noise floor. 

I've heard many people, Curtis Judd for example, aim to record at around -18db and then boost in post. So if your mic can get you around that level, according to that theory, it's fine. I would still find that quite limiting, as it's better to use a louder mic and turn the input down in camera. That way you can reduce the noise floor from the camera's preamp when you push it in post.

Alternatively, you could try running your mic into the XLR port, which is said to be 6 - 12 db louder than the 3.5mm jack.

Ok great, I'll see if I can get a 3.5mm to XLR converter for my Rode then. Thank you.

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