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drm

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  1. You are certainly correct. Anything sticking out from the camera is a potential issue for breakage, as I know too well However, there is one advantage when using the 12V port with a battery sled. You can hot swap the external battery. With an LP-E6 battery adapter connected to your sled, you lose the ability to hot swap the external batteries. Given that I frequently record and broadcast long events, I elected for a sled that connects to the 12V port. Although, one of my cameras drained the internal battery and died twice on a shoot, despite having an external battery connected to the 12V port. I ended up having to remove the internal battery on that shoot and just run external batteries. That same camera was fine on the last couple of shoots. I agree that it is very annoying to not know the remaining charge on the external battery. But, there are two ways that come to mind to deal with this: 1) get a sled with a battery indicator (mine turns red when the battery is low), or 2) get one of the NP batteries with a built in battery meter on top, like the Powerextra Multifunctional battery (https://amzn.to/2I9OS2d) It has slightly less capacity (6600mAh) than the Wasabi batteries (8800mAh), but you gain a USB port and the battery level indicator. From my testing, this battery should give you just over 2 hours of run time with an SSD & an XLR mic. I do wonder how sturdy the port is on the P4K as the mini-XLR plug is on the side too. I wonder if they reinforced the mainboard on that side.
  2. I'm with you. All of the cables hanging off (e.g. SSD cable, battery cable, etc.) are just potential things to go wrong during a shoot. The more of those things that you can move inside the camera, the less the chance for problems. It will also make working with gimbals easier. I have had to replace a motherboard on my GH5 because the HDMI cable got bumped during a shoot. Of course, I now have cages and clamps on every camera, so there is less chance of this happening again.
  3. I didn't like the design initially, but it has really grown on me. It is a very functional design and I appreciate it. It certainly isn't beautiful like a Leica or something, but I am ok with it now. Mine all look like Frankenstein now anyway, with cages, extra batteries, mics, etc. You can barely notice the camera for all the other stuff
  4. I have a couple of the Panasonic GH5 battery grips and a couple of the Vello battery grips. The Vello grip feels a little bit more cheaply made, but they work perfectly. I haven't had a single issue with them and I leave them on the camera 24/7. I would certainly consider one for the P4K from Vello. As to the new Blackmagic grip, I am excited and disappointed. 1) Using Sony NP-F570 batteries in the grip is just weird when the cam uses LP-E6 batteries. I am fine with it, but it is weird. 2) Now, I have three cages that won't work (obviously) with the grip. I will likely get grips anyway, but I like the compact cages. 3) It doesn't appear to allow hot swapping the batteries. Does anyone know if the grip allows hot swapping batteries? I bet no, after looking at the design.
  5. These are the ones that I purchased: https://amzn.to/2WXXpIZ The batteries are a bit snug, but it works properly. I ordered 3 and they all work.
  6. P4K Battery life w/NP-F970 batteries: By the way, I just completed a quick battery test on the P4K, for anyone that is interested. I set up 3 P4K's with NP-F970 batteries on a battery sled connected to the 12V port on the camera. The batteries were fully charged before starting the test. They all tested about 8.1V at the start. Each camera had the following equipment and settings: XLR shotgun microphone with phantom power turned on Audio levels set to 50% Screen brightness at default levels Samsung T5 1TB drives Panasonic native M4/3 lenses NO internal battery in camera I recorded a static scene until the camera turned off. Then noted the duration of the recorded video. Here is what I found: Battery 1: No name NP-F970 7.4V 48.84Wh => 2:08:51 total runtime Battery 2: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:24:11 total runtime Battery 3: Powerextra NP-F970 7.4V 8800mAh 65.12Wh => 2:25:10 total runtime So, as a worse case scenario, my cams get around 2 hours and 20 minutes with a big NP-F970 battery. Hopefully this information is helpful to people trying to decide how to power there little beasts ============================================================================= I see that you have "been there" before I agree with you completely. When you are getting paid for a job, you need to get it done, regardless of the obstacles. That is one of the reasons that I have backups for pretty much everything, including camera bodies. I get asked all the time why I bring so much gear to a job. Some of the gear that I bring isn't needed on every job, but at least I have the things to solve a problem when I need them. I am really big on redundancy. On a lot of our jobs, I only get one shot. I can't do a retake on many of our projects. I actually had the Voigtlander Nokton 25mm f/0.95 Type II Lens in my bag the other day, but elected not to use it, as I didn't *quite* need it. If I need a f/0.95 lens and ISO 10000+, that is a really peculiar situation. ISO 12800 with an f/1.2 lens is already much brighter on the screen than it looks to your naked eye. At least I didn't have to break out the night vision :D
  7. Yes, I think so. The noise reduction in Davinci Resolve is very good. I have used ISOs 10000 & 12800 a couple of times and have gotten usable footage after processing. I am surprised at how well the footage cleans up. Every once in a while, you are forced to use crazy high ISOs. For example, yesterday, I had a presenter from a giant Silicon Valley tech company that refused to allow the theater stage lights on during her presentation. She claimed the lights would blind her and she wouldn't be able to see the audience. So, I had someone on a stage, with a projector screen behind her and no light on her, other than splash from a few lights on the audience. I had to run ISO 12,800 with f/1.2 lenses and was still about 1/2 stop underexposed. She was so dark that she was basically a shadow to your naked eye. Of course, she also didn't want to wear a lav. She insisted that she could be heard fine without one. At least I won that battle and got my lav on her during the presentation. The footage from that event is certainly worse than I would have liked, but at least it is usable. If I had only had access to normal cameras, the footage would have been completely unusable. At some point, I will do some comparisons, but my use tells me that the GH5s is a stop or so better in low light than the P4K, before correcting in Resolve.
  8. I had a 6 camera event shoot yesterday. I used 3 of my GH5s cams and 3 of my P4K cams. Both cams are great, but they are quite different. The GH5s is a good bit better in low light (a stop or two). The GH5(s) cams are a good bit less "fiddly". You can pull them out and just shoot. I can even send the GH5 with a good lens with my wife (a great editor, but not a great camera person) and she can capture usable video footage. I can even set it to mostly auto mode for a novice user and I might get some usable video footage. With the P4K's I have to worry about power and lots of other little things (like will the audio work right). The menus are very easy to use, but there are lots of things to think about while using it. I would really hesitate giving it to an inexperienced user. With all that said, the footage is lovely. For my use, I find that I am using the P4K's more and more. I have even toyed with the idea of selling some of my GH5s cams. I am also seriously considering purchasing one of the new Blackmagic Ursa G2 cameras. I wouldn't have even considered that a few months back. The P4Ks are definitely more than you might expect. Earlier today, I even found myself wishing that the GH5s footage had been BRAW! Weird, I know...
  9. My only experience with them is the two E1 cameras that I purchased. The E1 cameras leave a ***LOT*** to be desired. They are barely functional in my opinion. Hopefully the E2 is much better. I have seen a couple of good reviews on the E2 cameras on YT. However, I would personally only purchase the E2 from a place where I could return it if I didn't like it (like B&H, etc.) I certainly hope that they produce a great product. I would like to have a camera with the specs of these announcements. This looks to be an interesting year!
  10. To me, the P4K is usable up to ISO 10,000. It also cleans up really nicely when you use noise reduction in Resolve. I think that the GH5s is a bit better in low light, probably something like 1/3 - 2/3 of a stop. I don't have the Fuji, but I think it is probably about a stop better than the P4K from the footage that I have seen and from my usage of the GH5s & P4K. For great low light, get the Sony cameras (e.g. A7III) their engineers used magic pixie dust in those things
  11. I have the GH5, GH5S, & P4K cameras. The Panasonic cameras produce great looking files straight out of the camera. Many people like the Natural profile on the Panasonic cameras. However, you will have to transcode these files into ProRes (or proxy) in order to edit them smoothly on a lower spec computer. The footage from the BM cameras does not look as good straight out of the camera as the Panasonic footage, in my opinion. The BRAW and the ProRes files from the P4K are much easier to edit on lower spec computers than the Panasonic footage, but the file sizes are much larger. In order to get decent footage straight from the P4K camera, you would need to "bake in" a LUT into the footage when recording. Without baking in a LUT, you will have to grade the footage in a program like Resolve. Picking between the GH5 & the P4K is a tough one as each has advantages. The choice would come down to your use case. The GH5 has image stabilization, great battery life, & great footage straight out of the camera, with the option for V-Log footage that you can grade. The P4K doesn't have stabilization, and has much worse battery life, but the P4K is better in low light and gives you the ability to record RAW footage. Each has lots of advantages and a few weaknesses. After color grading, both cameras produce wonderful footage. I think that either is a great choice, but the GH5 would be better for beginners. If you don't have any M4/3 lenses, you should also consider the Fuji XT3.
  12. I love the Olympus 12-100 f/4. It is on one of my cameras almost always. I would like it even more if I could get that kind of range in a f/2.8, but oh well I was sharing the specs for the 18-35 + Speedbooster in terms equivalent to the Panasonic 12-35 lens, not "full frame" equivalent. A new person might not be familiar with the 35mm equivalent conversion specs. Also, to me, quoting everything in 35mm equivalent specs is just silly when we were only talking about the m4/3 format cameras. It isn't like the video world records most everything in 35mm format (although some of that is changing now). I could see it if everyone converted the different formats to Super 35, but 35mm? That wasn't even really a thing until the Canon 5D Mark II a few years back. Of course, I also think that calling 35mm "full frame" is silly too as there are many cameras (e.g. medium format) that use much larger sensors. So, what are they? "Mega Frame"?
  13. @stefanocps I have three of the BMPCC4K cameras and have used them extensively. You need two main things: Power: either lots of LPE6 batteries or an external v-mount or Sony style NP battery with sled. Storage: very fast SD cards, expensive CFast cards, or a Samsung T5 type drive. I also suggest that you get a cage to mount accessories (but this isn't required). I use the Smallrig and it works well. Best of luck on your purchase.
  14. The 0.64X XL and the 0.71X Ultra work fine on the P4K. I have not had a single issue with my Ultra (0.71X) on the P4K (or my GH5/GH5s cameras) I think that Metabones is saying that they could provide a better experience on the P4K by making a specific adapter for that platform. Right now, we have to decide between the 0.71X (like I have) or the 0.64X, which can cause vignetting with some lenses. I am speculating that they will make a new adapter wider than the Ultra, but not quite as wide as the XL. They did mention that the P4K can't provide enough power for some lenses, so perhaps they will address that issue as well. As a politician would say: "if you like your XL or Ultra, you can keep your XL or Ultra"
  15. The Viltrox adapter doesn't currently allow AF with any lens, including the Sigma 18-35. Although, perhaps they will add it via firmware update like Metabones just did. The 12-35 f/2.8 is a great lens. I have a couple of them. But, the Sigma + Speed Booster will be much better in low light. That combo is ~ f/1.2 but has less range. The Sigma combo is roughly ~13-25. The 12-35 has IS and focuses *way* faster than the Sigma, just FYI.
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