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  1. Yes. To be clear, I am not saying that the E2 is good or bad in general. I have even considered buying the E2 a few times, but I am still reluctant because of my very poor experience with the two E1s that I purchased when they came out. I still have the E1s sitting on a shelf gathering dust somewhere. I was simply commenting that I agree with @zerocool22 that I see many weird artifacts in that *particular* video. I haven't paid much attention to the other E2 footage that has been posted, so I won't comment on the quality of the E2 footage in general. My recollection is that the other E2 footage that I had seen looked nice. After my pointing out the areas of the video to watch, I am certain that other people can see the artifacts that I mentioned, particularly in the opening scene. Again, I am not hating on the E2. I was simply pointing out the artifacts in that particular video. I have no idea of the cause of those artifacts. I can say, with certainty, that I would not keep a camera that produced footage like that all the time.
  2. I'm with @zerocool22 I see image quality issues in *many* places in that video. I downloaded the highest quality version from vimeo. I am not convinced that the issues that I see are due to compression artifacts from vimeo as the patterns that I am seeing are very odd. I would really like to see the original footage before I decide for certain. I used to run JVC LS-300 cameras and this reminds me of those cameras. The problems that I notice are most prominent in the dark areas. Here are some examples of the issues that I see. I just took snapshots from VLC while the video was playing, then saved those as 100% jpgs. When you let the video play, these issues are more visible. There is weird pattern noise here in the intro. Watch the video to see more clearly. Here, notice noise in his jacket and on the wall Here notice the pattern in the shadows and on the rope: Here, watch the guy's face. There is a lot of weird pixelation in places that I haven't noticed before. Perhaps this footage is just jacked up or something.
  3. Kisaha, I have a lot of m4/3 lenses (maybe 20? and Canon) but use Olympus 12-100 lens a lot. It is great because it is a constant f/4 and has a great range. The lens is also very sharp and well built. The lens IS *does* help and works well. I also use the Panasonic 12-35 & 35-100 f/2.8 lenses regularly. I find that I use the Olympus 12-100 lens in run/gun situations more than the Sigma 18-35 because of the better zoom range on the Olympus (plus you get IS). After reflecting on the issue, I think that the focus issues with the Olympus lens that day were mostly due to the environment in which I was shooting. It was very bright outside and I was running handheld (cage, side handle, SmallHD monitor on top). If you hold the camera still when focusing, the one touch focus works well. If you move the camera while focusing, you can cause the camera to freak out. I suspect that I didn't do a very good job holding the camera still that day In the studio and most other times, the one touch focus has worked very well. I can't recall ever having that many focus issues before on a shoot, so, I chalk my problems that day up to user error. It didn't help that I couldn't see the screen very well in direct sunlight.
  4. LOL...one of the main P4K complaints is related to its focus ability (or lack thereof), hence the interest in your type of solution . Although, this could be said of many of the cinema cameras. To be honest, I am only somewhat satisfied with the push to focus on the P4K. It works some of the time. I use manual focus with focus peaking most of the time but I do use the push to focus on shoots sometimes to get initial focus. Unfortunately, the P4K push to focus also flakes out some of the time. For example, during my last shoot I noticed several times during the day when I used the one touch AF on the P4K that the camera would get confused, then focus in and out repeatedly, then ultimately fail to focus (with the Olympus 12-100 f/4). (it was a run & gun type shoot) Even though my GH5 & GH5s cameras have continuous autofocus, I never use it. I set them to one touch AF, just like the P4K. I can't stand to see the pulsing while the camera is trying to focus. If I see that Panasonic focus pulsing in one of my shots, I would consider that shot ruined and not use it. I would love to have a reliable *non-pulsing* continuous autofocus system that I could turn off when I didn't want it.
  5. His solution doesn't use a follow focus motor, so this won't allow you to autofocus manual lenses. He solution sends the focus distance to the camera, which then sends that data to the lens, which performs the focus movement. I suspect that he could quickly modify this solution to send the commands to a follow focus motor instead of sending the focus commands to the camera.
  6. Knowing how much better the native lenses autofocus, I suspect the performance is much better when not using adapted lenses. By the way, is the communication two-way? I mean, if I select a focus point using the touch screen, are you able to use that information with your focus system to maintain focus?
  7. The P4K can already autofocus with many autofocus lenses, but it is single push to focus, not continuous autofocus. I suspect that his LiDAR system is telling the P4K *where* to focus and could probably do this on a continuous basis. The time of flight systems will likely offer a huge improvement for AF. This is a very exciting development.
  8. The 1920x1080 viewfinders are pricey. The Blackmagic is $1500 and the Zacutos are about $2000. If this one was a little less expensive, they would probably sell very well. If you want to give yourself a heart attack (or a good laugh) go to B&H. Search for "electronic viewfinder", then sort by price from High to Low. There are some *crazy* expensive ones out there.
  9. I just noticed this new sun hood from Smallrig in case people haven't seen it: https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-sun-hood-for-bmpcc-4k-2299.html It looks like $28 with a ship date of late August.
  10. After my bright sunlight shoot the other day, I went looking for a brighter portable monitor. I just received the Feelworld 279S monitor (2200nit). It was on sale at Amazon for Primeday for less than $280 for the SDI/HDMI version. This monitor really is viewable in direct sunlight. I have only played with it for a few hours, but this appears to be a pretty decent monitor, particularly for the price. It is fairly well built, but there is a lot of plastic (as you would imagine for the price). As long as you don't drop it, I think it will be fine. There is only a 1/4" mount on the bottom, not the sides or top, so be aware of that when thinking about mounting options. It also only has two function buttons, like for histogram & false color, but you can customize them to your preferred function. I think that people will have to be careful judging exposure just by looking at the monitor since it is so bright. It does have several exposure tools like false color, histogram, & zebras, so that will help you get exposure right (I didn't see waveforms). I suspect that I would really like the new Atomos Shinobi (I have Ninja Infernos), but I need HDMI in & out. I am going to place this in my workflow and see how it goes. This is an interesting new toy. This is a terrible photo that I snapped with my phone that shows you a little bit about how the monitor compares to the monitor in the P4K. The P4K monitor is a little better than it looks in the image if you move around to get an angle with less glare.
  11. Probably not any time soon. I have a couple of the Atomos Ninja Infernos and I really like them. They are great recorders and monitors and I use them when I am on sticks. They are just too big and heavy for my liking when doing a small handheld rig. I have one of the P4Ks rigged with a cage, handle, and NP970 battery. It makes a nice little rig when used with a stabilized lens. I have also been using it a fair bit on a gimbal.
  12. I used the P4Ks all day yesterday at a shoot where I was regularly going from outside in direct sunlight, to shady areas, then to indoor areas with varying light. If you plan to use the P4K in a quickly moving shoot, I **strongly** encourage you to mount an external daylight-viewable monitor to your P4K. The screen on the P4K works great, unless you are in direct sunlight. In direct sunlight, it is basically unusable. I mounted my SmallHD 5" monitor on top to help, but even that wasn't really bright enough. I could have used one of my 7" Ninja Infernos, but they are kinda big when going handheld. I prefer a 5" monitor unless I am on a tripod. I think that I am going to buy the 2200nit Feelworld monitor and try it, just for kicks (it is a 7", but it is light). I could pick up the Atomos Shinobi, but I need HDMI in and out. So, for all of you planning to use the P4K in sunlight, you will have to find shade regularly to review your shots, or pick up a bright external monitor. Happy shooting!
  13. I do this *all* the time. It is such a hassle to set up everything that I leave my P4Ks rigged up (mostly) and transport them that way. I take off the external monitor (if I am using one) when I travel, but leave the cage, rails, battery, follow focus, etc. I have the HDMI / USB-C clamps in place, so I also usually leave the SSD attached. If you want to go with a smaller / lighter setup, skip the v-mount battery with rails and use one of the Sony NP battery sleds. I attached them to the cage top handle. A 970 gives me 2+ hours of run time (iirc). The NP battery sleds that I use have an LED that turns red when the battery gets low, so you have some indication before the external battery dies. Since I use the 12 connector, I also have the internal battery as a safety backup.
  14. I would not suggest that most people swap the GH5s for the P4K. I have several P4Ks, the GH5, & the GH5s cameras. I use them daily and I like the GH5s and the P4K both very much. The GH5s & the P4K are totally different animals, each with strengths. If I am doing a run & gun type event, I regularly take the GH5s cameras, as they are easy to use, have great battery life, and can produce great images straight out of camera. If I am filming a music video, interview, or similar, I regularly take the P4Ks. The P4Ks allow you to record RAW and produce lovely footage, but they require lots of attention to get great results. They also have lots of issues like focus issues (slow), handling, poor battery life, gimbal balance issues, post processing, etc. The GH5s is much easier to just grab, shoot, and produce great results straight out of camera. As long as you are aware of the P4K limitations, and are aware of the post processing requirements, you should love the P4K. It is capable of producing amazing footage.
  15. I updated all three of my cameras last night, using the 6.4 updater. The cameras now show a firmware version of 6.2.1, which is the last update on the BM site that mentions the P4K.
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