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Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K

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1 hour ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

Definitely noticeable with that crop. Though still an amazing option. I had the chance to use the Pocket 4k today, having a 12:1 option is amazing. 

 

Indeed. CinemaDNG lossless would surely be too : )

 

49 minutes ago, Shirozina said:

DNG 'looks' like it has sharpening applied with it's overly emphasised edges. Anyway who looks at a film at 300% an come to think of it who look at a film at 100%??? 'sharpness' is not the reason to choose BRAW anyway. Having the post production flexibility of not having and ISO curve and WB baked in is a bigger advantage than apparent 'sharpness' gains at 300%.

Nothing against softness approach to create cinematic pictures. We can apply it or not with the tools we have, not else though. Without mention the introduction of artifacts such as moiré and aliasing. Take a look in those tests from the 2nd link there, no doubts on. It is what it is.

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs
2 hours ago, MeanRevert said:

Anyone successfully used the SanDisk Extreme Pro 170 mb/s card for 4k/60p? I just tried and it stops after 3 seconds. 24p was fine. I could have sworn I read someone posting on the Resolve forum that this worked.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9VX76D

There were a few memory card posts, including by me, around page 360 in this thread. Mine were at DCI4k/30, ProRes 422, though. I found a couple of posts on the BM forum here: 

https://forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=87098&p=488690&hilit=SanDisk+Extreme+Pro#p488957

They said they were only to get the card to work at 12:1 & Q5 raw for 4k/60p.

That card is only a V30 card, so it isn't too surprising to me that it can't record at the higher data rates required for the higher quality raw formats. Just FYI, I use the T5 and it records all formats on my cameras. There were also some really cheap CFAST cards mentioned a few days back on this thread that should work.

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6 minutes ago, drm said:

 

That card is only a V30 card, so it isn't too surprising to me that it can't record at the higher data rates required for the h

Great, thank you for sending me the link.  I'll see if one of those will work. I'd really like to stick with either SD or CFAST so I don't have to bother with mounting an SSD but it looks like a T5 is the cheaper option.  How do you have yours mounted?

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4 minutes ago, MeanRevert said:

Great, thank you for sending me the link.  I'll see if one of those will work. I'd really like to stick with either SD or CFAST so I don't have to bother with mounting an SSD but it looks like a T5 is the cheaper option.  How do you have yours mounted?

I have the SmallRig cage on all three of mine, with the SmallRig SSD mounts. The cage, holders, and drives work well.

I would also like to have the drives internal, as having the wires and stuff in the way is a bit of a bother. But for now, having 1TB of storage on each camera is very nice. The normal CFAST drives are just silly expensive for 1TB of storage for each camera (~1000 US per TB). Whereas, the Samsung T5 1TB is currently $177.99 on B&H. So, for 5x the price storage, I will put up with the USB C cable being in the way :)

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46 minutes ago, xzobinx said:

any knows which store has this battery and ships to Australia? Thinking about switching to this power option when my shinobi arrives 

@xzobinx I am sure that you know this already but, the 12V port on the camera is designed to take 12V-20V. The battery outputs 8.4V-6V. I am surprised that the camera even turns on with only 8V plugged into the 12V port. I suggest that you get a 12V output battery sled like this one: https://amzn.to/2Fp0I4u  I have 3 and they work fine for me. I also use dtap straight from a v-mount battery to the 12V port and it works great. The camera lasts basically all day with one big v-mount battery.

If you run a cord straight from the battery, I recommend that you use a dummy battery. The camera is designed to use lower voltages from the battery port. If you use a dummy battery, you will also lose the ability to hot swap your battery during a long shoot.

I have 15-20 of those batteries and they work great. I have had only had one of them die over the past 2 or three years of regular use. I have the batteries numbered, but I don't keep track of when I buy them, so I have no idea how long the batteries lasted before dying.

IIRC, I think that Tom Antos mentioned killing some of his monitors that provide power to the camera because of the heavy power draw from the BMPCC4K, so I would hesitate trying to draw power from the monitor.

Unfortunately, I can't recommend a store that will ship those to Australia.

 

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1 hour ago, drm said:

@xzobinx I am sure that you know this already but, the 12V port on the camera is designed to take 12V-20V. The battery outputs 8.4V-6V. I am surprised that the camera even turns on with only 8V plugged into the 12V port. I suggest that you get a 12V output battery sled like this one: https://amzn.to/2Fp0I4u  I have 3 and they work fine for me. I also use dtap straight from a v-mount battery to the 12V port and it works great. The camera lasts basically all day with one big v-mount battery.

If you run a cord straight from the battery, I recommend that you use a dummy battery. The camera is designed to use lower voltages from the battery port. If you use a dummy battery, you will also lose the ability to hot swap your battery during a long shoot.

I have 15-20 of those batteries and they work great. I have had only had one of them die over the past 2 or three years of regular use. I have the batteries numbered, but I don't keep track of when I buy them, so I have no idea how long the batteries lasted before dying.

IIRC, I think that Tom Antos mentioned killing some of his monitors that provide power to the camera because of the heavy power draw from the BMPCC4K, so I would hesitate trying to draw power from the monitor.

Unfortunately, I can't recommend a store that will ship those to Australia.

 

thanks for the head up. I'm aware of your concerns 

-the 8v should be able to run the camera but not be able to turn it on. So it requires a battery inside the camera at all time. This is similar to using a Sony NP power sled without step up transformer built in. I do have a sony NP power sled and other battery option like the batbox 4k but I'm looking for a smaller setup with a monitor. 

-Tom Antos did fired a couple of his monitors. However, he power it through the 8v dc out of the monitor. My plan is actually power form the dc out of the battery.

-They used to have an older version of the battery with 12v dc out which would be perfect. Unfortunately they "upgrade" it   :(

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On 3/21/2019 at 3:47 AM, MeanRevert said:

Can anyone recommend a good LUT pack out there?

I agree with @JordanWright to start with the ones included in Resolve.  Specifically the Film Look LUTs.

Or design your own in Resolve - Juan Melara consistently shows that it's capable of enormously sophisticated adjustments:

 

 

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27 minutes ago, thebrothersthre3 said:

Wish they had a Lut for those working in other programs like Premiere. 

Open the Resolve settings go to 'Color Management' - scroll down a little to Lookup Tables and then click 'Open LUT Folder'. Then you can copy whatever LUT you want and copy it to Premiere's LUT folder and away you go.

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On 3/20/2019 at 11:02 AM, CaptainHook said:

Resolve 15.3 has a build of SDK 1.3 which does support LUTs in the sidecar, they just need to be manually placed in the sidecar at this time (we would like to add the ability to add LUTs to the sidecar through the Resolve UI in a future update).

That's good to know, but for now it's forcing me to forgo LUTs all together, and only use them for monitoring on location. In the long run, this can only be a good thing for me personally. That said, LUTs built into the sidecar will undoubtedly be beneficial.

On the subject, do you know if the Raw Player will one day have the ability to toggle the sidecar, so we don't need to close the application, move the sidecar and then reopen? 

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34 minutes ago, Kisaha said:

"Autofocus is enabled for Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K but performance may not meet expectation."

I guess its better than nothing.

LOL...I am surprised that they put that but, yes. The AF *isn't* great. But at least it does work. There is no continuous AF, but the touch to focus does work. AF didn't work at all before, so I will take it.

I estimate that the AF is about 1/2 the speed with a Metabones lens as it is with a native lens. But, again, it works :)

 

By the way, here are the links to the Windows & Mac versions of the firmware to enable AF on the Metabones adapters for anyone who wants it:

WIN: https://www.metabones.com/article/of/EF-M43_Firmware_Win

MAC: https://www.metabones.com/article/of/EF-M43_Firmware_Mac

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19 minutes ago, Emanuel said:

Yes, it works : ) That huge monitor coupled to their tiptop focus assist is so efficient, I doubt you'll want to touch the screen to acquire focus... ; -)

A few days ago, I had my cams up high, with my tripods fully extended, shooting over a crowd at people on a stage. Manually focusing was very difficult, as I was well below the screen on the back of the camera.

Touch focus, came in really handy in that situation. I used it several times during that shoot. I could have used the app to focus with my phone, but I had several cameras running and didn't want to keep switching between each camera in the app. Having multiple ways to focus is a great feature.

I would love to have an external touch monitor, like my SmallHD, that I could use to interact with the camera. Alternatively, I would like to have a way to easily switch between cameras in an app. I almost always run a 3 cam set. 

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