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Ready to Invest in Some Primes


jonpais
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No one has mentioned Nikkor AI and AI-S primes yet. I have a set of five, cine-modded by Duclos, and I have been pleased with them; first on my GH2, then on my FS100, and finally on my 5D3. I've also had them on a RED Scarlet, and they looked great at 4K. They are compact but well-built, and the lens characteristics match closely across the set. The only downside that I can think of is that the focus ring goes the other way, making a reversible follow focus a necessity.  

 

Here's a nice rundown on them by Caleb Pike of DSLRVideoShooter:

 

The Nikkor AIS 50mm f/1.4 was highly recommended to me by Franc Peret, whose work I regard highly. Like Andy Lee, he suggested just picking up any cheap adaptor on eBay just to get started. If I lived anywhere but in Vietnam, I would simply go to a camera store and compare the Sigma, Rokinon, etc. Unfortunately, there aren't any good shops here in Saigon... Very informative video BTW.

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yes that is the beauty of Yashica prines they work on full frame canon and on micro 4/3 Panasonic camera

 

so you only need one set of primes like me if you shoot panasonic and canon

 

just buy a Contax Yashica to Canon EF adaptor off ebay for your 5D etc

 

 

if you go done this route please do consider the superb Carl Zeiss 28-70mm vario sonar zoom

it is C/Y mount like the Yashicas and is a very very sharp lens with a 3d type pop to it !! aspheric elements and its small and light for a zoom

 

yes that is the beauty of Yashica prines they work on full frame canon and on micro 4/3 Panasonic camera

 

so you only need one set of primes like me if you shoot panasonic and canon

 

just buy a Contax Yashica to Canon EF adaptor off ebay for your 5D etc

 

 

if you go done this route please do consider the superb Carl Zeiss 28-70mm vario sonar zoom

it is C/Y mount like the Yashicas and is a very very sharp lens with a 3d type pop to it !! aspheric elements and its small and light for a zoom

Andy can you do me a solid and tell me what YASHICA ML prime you have with f stop so i can get the same since i dont know much about them and what is your oppenion on nikkor ais as lenses

 

Thanks for help

 

Thanks

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Here's a slightly heretic interjection: IMHO, it doesn't matter that much which Japanese manual focus SLR prime lens you use for video as long as it has been produced by one of the quality manufacturers Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Pentax, Minolta, Fuji, Konica, Yashica or Ricoh. 

 

All the lenses will resolve well enough for 1080p/2K video, they will all have decent contrast and color rendering. Major differences will only become visible under one of the following two conditions: [a] when shooting stills and pixel peeing at 16-32 MP,  when shooting wide open and under extreme conditions (direct sunlight into the lens provoking flares etc.). At most medium f-stop settings, differences between the above brands will be quite subtle.

 

You'll spot major differences in image rendering only when using true vintage lenses such as 16mm cine c-mounts or Russian M42 SLR and M39 rangefinder lenses (most of which are copies of pre-WWII Zeiss lenses).

 

You'll also see differences with modern-day Japanese autofocus and Korean Samyang primes which (mostly through new coating formula) have been pushed towards higher contrast rendering, but aren't necessarily sharper than Japanese 1970s/80s manual focus primes.

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Nikon make great lenses - period  - so if you want to go down this route fine

 

but they are expensive and the Yashicas are just as good there is nothing in it really

 

The Yashica ML range is there best range of fully manual lenses

 

so these are the one Im using

 

YASHICA ML 24mm f2.8

YASHICA ML 28mm f2.8

YASHICA ML 35mm f2.8

YASHICA ML 50mm f2

YASHICA ML 50mm f1.7

YASHICA ML 135mm f2.8

YASHICA ML 42-75mm f3.5-4.5 zoom

 

all these are on ebay cheap!!

 

there is a lens hire company here in London that has a set like this for hire

http://cargocollective.com/yashica/24mm-ML-2-8

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@Jim Why have you given up on u43 lenses? And what do you mean by "you can tell the difference with the Zeiss lenses"? Exactly how are they different? Resolution? Color? Bokeh? 

 

Jonpais,

  

  It just seems the m43 lenses are limited.  I have the panny 12-35 that is a good lense since it has ois, and it's a little wider then most.  i'd really like to see the new panny 42.5 lens.  That may be the last m43 I buy.  Also, the zeiss contax are on the cheaper end of the prime price range.  I was ready to get an slr magic but decided to go zeiss after I read the guide on reduser.  Also, they have some character to them.  I can't see it yet, still learning.  But some of the new lenses are super sharp and no soul.   Also, the speedbooster is a game changer.  

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YASHICA ML 24mm f2.8

YASHICA ML 28mm f2.8

YASHICA ML 35mm f2.8

YASHICA ML 50mm f2

YASHICA ML 50mm f1.7

YASHICA ML 135mm f2.8

YASHICA ML 42-75mm f3.5-4.5 zoom

 

A small remark, and partial correction of my previous posting that called all Japanese manual primes more or less equal: There are still differences in available lens speeds. A top brand such as Nikon offered faster lenses such as 24mm f2, 28mm f2, 35mm f1.4 and f2, 50mm f1.2 and 135mm f2.

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The MFT mount on these cameras puts one between a rock and a hard place.  I have the Panny 14mm and 14-45 and they both have OIS with an external switch that works well on the BMPCC.  Optically, as Cantsim says, they are acceptable but are not useful for photography (at least for a sensor-size believer like me).  Also, these lenses feel very cheap.  The zoom on the low end Panny lenses is not smooth; indeed, you wonder if they could make the lens any cheaper feeling.  The idea of spending $1,000 for the MFT mount 12-35 just for video is too much for me.

 

At the hard place, using Nikon (or other glass) on the cameras looses lens stabilization and that's not good if you're shooting above effective 30mm in my opinion.  Once you start adding rigging, well, one no longer has a "pocket" camera.  

 

I used to be pretty much a Canon guy.  But the ability to use Nikon/Nikkor glass on both full frame Nikons (like the D600--which you can get for fantastic prices used because of the oil-spot worry) AND on any video camera with adapter, makes those investments futureproof.

 

Back to the rock, having a small MFT lens is nice for portability and ease-of-use.

 

In the end, I believe your real choice is between cheap or overpriced single-use optics in MFT mount, or larger glass good optics and bulk issues with lenses made for full-frame.  I go back and forth on the two myself, every day.   

 

In conclusion, if you're going to shoot set pieces, invest in good glass that will work with most cameras (not MFT).  If you want a portable camera, then get MFT lenses (used if you ask me, because they don't get any less plasticy over time).  That's my 2-cents.  I found the comment, sorry I can't paste from earlier in the thread, about using medium format lenses on full-frame quite interesting!

 

In general, sorry for para-phrasing what others have said very well ;)

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The MFT mount on these cameras puts one between a rock and a hard place.  I have the Panny 14mm and 14-45 and they both have OIS with an external switch that works well on the BMPCC.  

 

Interesting - my copy of the 14mm/2.5 doesn't have OIS. Where and when did you get your's?

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@maxotics "If you want a portable camera, then get MFT lenses (used if you ask me, because they don't get any less plasticy over time)." :)

 

Very well put! In fact, in spite of almost every review of the Panny "Pro" zooms, where they say build quality is high, I have always felt they feel very cheap, especially for lenses costing over $1,000 apiece. I wouldn't absolutely rule out purchasing an SLR Magic or Voigtlander u43 lens in the future, but I think I'm going to investigate some of the less expensive used primes mentioned here and possibly the Rokinon cine glass next. 

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Personally, i'd go with Andy's or QHR advice - Yashica ML or Nikon ai-s or ai + speedbooster (bigger FOV & extra f stop).

You'll save yourself a lot of money, get well made legacy lenses & future proof yourself in a way that buying MFT lenses won't.

You're already using a shoulder rig, so no problems concerning stabilization.

The only thing you might have to re-think/adapt is your street style shooting when making short films.

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Personally, i'd go with Andy's or QHR advice - Yashica ML or Nikon ai-s or ai + speedbooster (bigger FOV & extra f stop).

You'll save yourself a lot of money, get well made legacy lenses & future proof yourself in a way that buying MFT lenses won't.

You're already using a shoulder rig, so no problems concerning stabilization.

The only thing you might have to re-think/adapt is your street style shooting when making short films.

Right, if I got off my butt and started doing some narrative work, I'd most likely be using a tripod, which would make stabilization a non-issue. And I'd have to consider investing in some LED lights. But that's for another thread...!!

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Right, if I got off my butt and started doing some narrative work, I'd most likely be using a tripod, which would make stabilization a non-issue. And I'd have to consider investing in some LED lights. But that's for another thread...!!

And the money you save buying Nikon/Yashica or whatever other legacy lenses you choose, you can put towards those lights or anything else that you might need.

Most people go down the "Buying Brand New" lenses route & then realise that there are so many other options out there (I did).

The lens I use the most cost me a huge £10 (Helios 44-2), I've since had to upgrade to a Nikon 24mm f2.8 (set me back £70) because of the BM Pocket.

The most expensive lens i own (the first one I bought) has been sitting in its nice brand new little box for over a year now!

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And the money you save buying Nikon/Yashica or whatever other legacy lenses you choose, you can put towards those lights or anything else that you might need.

Most people go down the "Buying Brand New" lenses route & then realise that there are so many other options out there (I did).

The lens I use the most cost me a huge £10 (Helios 44-2), I've since had to upgrade to a Nikon 24mm f2.8 (set me back £70) because of the BM Pocket.

The most expensive lens i own (the first one I bought) has been sitting in its nice brand new little box for over a year now!

The story of my life :(

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