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Everything posted by Bioskop.Inc

  1. I've mentioned a few times over the years that this lens is limited & not very practical for many filming situations, but I suppose most people don't like searching too far back into the forum's history. It is a nice little lens & the glass is superb, but best for situations where you don't have to film past 5M & you'll need low powered diopters. You can rack a little, maybe a meter or 2, but not over a long distance - you need a taking lens with a decent amount of focus throw at the 5M mark & the use of a +0.3 or +0.5 helps, as does stopping down the lens a little. I used it for filming concerts, so it was ideal for this as you could focus a little without having to change the diopters all the time & with strong stage lights it flared as well. You can film past 5M, but it won't be tack sharp & Infinity is not an option. I've no idea how much they go for now, but you'd get better value for money going for a dual focus & then add a variable diopter.
  2. Thanks for this, will have to get myself a few now - who knows where we will be in a years time, might not be able to use cards in these old cameras?!
  3. This is the one Takumar that I haven't used with an Iscorama, all the others are some of my favourite lenses to use with an anamorphic attachment. I do use the Tair 11a 135mm f2.8 & it works amazingly well, in fact these longer focal lengths give you better image quality than wider lenses do. The one thing to watch out for when using vintage lenses is to test out where infinity really is - by this I mean that a lot of adaptors play safe & the reading of infinity on the lens isn't always spot on, so you might have to dial it back a fraction. I have quite a few M42 lenses that behave this way, which might be why some people think they can't get a sharp/clear image when using an anamorphic adaptor. So always check the real Infinity mark of your taking lens (add some tape to secure it or make a mark on the taking lens, so if it moves you can adjust quickly) & then add your adaptor - you should have no troubles. NB. I find the Takumar's are some of the sharpest vintage taking lenses to use with an Iscorama & they are normally more reliable (in terms of quality control) than a lot of other brands, especially the Russain lenses.
  4. A friend of a friend is/was the manager of a band asked for my help & I did a few live videos for them, charged them peanuts (£200 for each) as I knew that they didn't have much cash. They asked me to do a doc type thing to promote them, so I quoted £400 & they agreed. However.....they paid me late for one video (6 months) & then asked if they could have the finished doc (which wasn't finished at that time) and they would pay me later. Now it took them nearly 6 months to pay me £200, so in my mind I would have to wait a year for £400 & there was always the chance that I'd never see it. I said no, they would have to come up with at least half the cash first. I didn't hear back from them for a few months, but thought it was Christmas so no biggy. I check out there Facebook page & what do I see......a rough copy of the doc that they had ripped from Vimeo using some pretty bad app/program, as it looked like low res shit. To top it all off, the post on FB said "this is a doc we made about ourselves" - no mention of me, no thanks just them claiming to have made the film they had stolen.....! YouTube took it down within the hour! There are loads of people out there who want something for nothing or nearly nothing...lesson learnt!
  5. The Angenieux 35-70mm is parfocal & is vintage loveliness - also, is about the price range you mentioned, but can be had cheaper. NB: the 28-70 isn't, nor is the cheaper Tokina ATX Pro version of the 28-70mm (some people say that it is, but that is BS - so beware).
  6. A few things first: What does the speedbooster now make your sensor - is it S35/APS or FF? - If it's S35/APS, then the 58mm isn't going to cut it. You'll have to use an 85mm. (if it's FF, then that becomes 135mm). If you take off the Speedbooster & use the native M43, then you'll be able to use the Helios - in fact you could use a 50mm lens or you might get away with something smaller so try a 35 or a 40mm. That's your problem - you're using the wrong size taking lens. The larger Kowa will enable you to use a 45mm (maybe a 40mm) on APC size (with your speedbooster) & a 35mm on M43. Also, another thing to remember is that by using the Sankor 16D you will be getting a wider field of view than 85mm or 50mm, so don't get hung up on that! The Sankor 16D is a nice lens, so just work with it, rather than against it. Also what people tend to forget, or never knew, is that these anamorphic adaptors actually work best with longer focal length taking lenses - the wider the taking lens the more distortion etc. you will get!
  7. Let me add to @mercer comments - cheap doesn't mean bad, but more likely with vintage lenses, just not wanted or not appreciated. Such a subjective & loaded question, especially here! I've owned such a lot & ended up with a full set of Russain [Zeiss copies] lenses - couldn't be happier. But ironically, I use my Tokina ATX-Pro 28-70mm zoom lens the most for pics & any filming I might do. But if I still filmed a lot, I think I would complete my Nikon Ai-S set, as when I look at things I've shot with the 24mm f2.8 or 50mm f1.8 I'm always satisfied - in fact, i'm glad I used them. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive - just good solid lenses that get the job done & more often than not they surprise people.
  8. Yes they should be - they're vintage lenses, so if other lenses of a similar age work, then there's no reason these shouldn't.
  9. Bioskop.Inc

    I need a hug

    @kaylee, I turn 47 next month & am freaking out! All my friends are married, some have kids & all of them have sensible, stable jobs that earn them a good comfortable living - I don't! The last few years, the work slowly started to dry up & I had to get a sensible part-time job. The realisation that I should perhaps move away from what I liked doing, to actually something that would leave me in a more comfortable position has been beckoning me for some time - should this become a hobby has become the question for a while now? Last year, I agreed to help a friend of a friend out with the music he had begun to make - made a video & tweaked some of the music. He offered me to join & work with him, which I accepted as I had nothing better to do. Another friend joined us & we were 3 guys in our 40s just doing something in our spare time, all having fun, albeit living in different parts of the country. We don't meet up very often & there were never any intentions to play live - it's electronic music & I don't think we have the time or money to figure that part of it out just yet. A few months ago we were offered a Record Contract! This has come, pretty much, totally out of the blue & we were all - a Record Deal, Really?! Fuck!!! Shit happens & you never really know what's around the corner or how many corners you might have to turn - try everything, experiment, contact people on the off chance that they might have work or advice to give you! Everyone going down the art type route (not the desk job route) gets down from time to time - if you don't, then you're lucky! But to be honest, my desk job causes me more stress, anxiety etc. then I've ever felt in my life. And the funny thing is, I see my stable, well off friends & they are about 15/20yrs further down the crazy road than I am - you scrape way the top layer of their lives & its far worse than yours. One friend said he wished he never got married & had kids - he was having a really bad day/month/year.....
  10. you'll need a special clamp - Redstan makes the best
  11. I think that it was discussed in this section of the forum a while back (a few years, maybe 5yrs), can't remember how much detail it went into - so go digging!
  12. Bioskop.Inc


    Yep, The Rollei QBM Zeiss lenses are top quality & it seems vintage lenses go through phases - people forget or don't know. The good thing is that prices go up & down too! Here's 2 very good resources for anyone thinking of buying Nikon/Nikkor lenses: Lens Evaluations - spot on & identify the differences perfectly: http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html#rating Serial Numbers & dates made (makes identifying what you are buying a lot easier): http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#35
  13. Bioskop.Inc


    LOL! That's the problem with bookmarking stuff, you totally forget what the website is called - great resource though & worth posting twice!
  14. Bioskop.Inc


    I'll second the Yashica ML lenses - here's a good resource: https://cargocollective.com/yashica/About-Yashica-ML-Prime-Lenses Here's a list of M42 that hit or don't hit a 5D - Takumar 50mm f1.4 or the 55mm f1.8 (beware both have razor thin DoF wide open, but are sharp) https://www.panoramaplanet.de/comp/
  15. Bioskop.Inc


    You've just made a great point with this B&W version of your Poster, without the distraction of the colour your eyes are drawn to the guy & they stay with him. In the colour version your eyes wonder around the frame & his silhouette gets lost in the sky. Nice shot, nice lens - keeping it on topic!
  16. Bioskop.Inc


    If it has Tomioka on there, as well as Chinon etc. its the same lens - Tomioka made them & they were sold/rebranded (55mm f1.4 & F1.2). If there's no Tomioka on it, it might not be the real deal. @mercer Make it in B&W - so under rated these days (just think/watch Ida & Cold War). I shot something a while ago, in colour & have decided to go B&W for the edit - also saves a lot of time with CC!
  17. I just keep seeing Elmoscope I & 16Ds going quite cheap - also a lot in actual auction mode, not Buy It Now. I also hate it when people recommend the Isco Multi-coloured nonsense lenses - horrible. I just kept 4 & only really use 2 of them (Iscorama 54 & Widescreen 2000), not even sure where the other 2 are - storage somewhere?!
  18. Didn't read the speedbooster bit - just don't use the speedbooster, simple. Or even better, just put an 85mm lens on there - anamorphics work better with longer focal lengths. If you like the Helios, get a Jupiter 9 & a Tair 11a & you'll have a nice set (58mm, 85mm & 135mm) Personally, i'd keep away from the SLR Magic stuff, as the coatings are gross & they make the flares look nasty - also a lot more expensive.
  19. Yeah, it's a nice lens & as Tito said is basically identical to the Sankor 16D (some say its a rebranded Sankor), not the Kowa! It is exactly the same width at the back as the Version 2 & has blue flares (I think some don't, but the one I had did). The Elmoscope 2 is basically the same as a Kowa for B&H etc. They're cheap & good - not as small as you might think, but not massive. http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Anamorphic_Lenses#2x_Anamorphic_attachments
  20. Personally, the best bang for your buck would be the Singer/Sankor 16D or the Elmoscope I (they're basically the same lens) - they normally have the blue flares, are x2 stretch & are cheap. Yes, they might be slightly bigger than some other options out there, but they're not that big - not in comparison to say an Iscorama 54. The fact that they are cheap means that you can also afford to buy a variable diopter like a Rectilux, once you get fed up of the dual focus. Also, try to get yourself a Helios 44-2 as they have a preset aperture, which means you don't have click stops & so allows you to make small aperture adjustments.
  21. Still got my OG Pocket & all I can say is forget RAW, simply because ProRes HQ has all the DR you'll ever need - RAW also produces way too much M&A & noise, whilst I've never seen in it in PRHQ. Also the highlight roll off is lovely, even if you clip it slightly & I've had to do that a few times in the past - no complaints. It does get hot - i've burnt my finger on the metal casing before, but it was about +30 degrees when I that happened! Make sure you've got the latest FW on it, as they made huge strides with the Video mode setting & the colour it produced - it was like they'd added a BM LUT to the Film setting & you still had room to grade it more. Be really careful of the mini-HDMI port as it is really fragile - i've heard of it breaking even with a cage clamp. Which brings me onto the screen - don't believe all the rubbish about how bad it is. I never used anything but it's screen & I was able to nail focus every time - I could pull focus using it too! IR/UV cut filter essential. And if i remember correctly WB of 4500 was always a safe bet, which you could easily tweak in post if need be.
  22. Nice lens & pretty rare, so well done for buying it. A few tips about infinity & some vintage lenses (especially the Helios) - I've found that sometimes the taking lenses infinity mark is slightly off & you might need to dial it back a little (mm if anything). Test the taking lens, get the infinity set properly & tape it down so it doesn't move or remember the mark - this should sort your infinity problem out with some vintage lenses, it's certainly the case with most of my Russain lenses. The Meyer 100m is a really nice lens, one of my favourites for colour/contrast, not always the sharpest but I don't care about that nonsense. I've found that the Nikon Ai-s 50mm F1.8 pancake lens is a really good one for anamorphics - really cheap too! Another one to think about is the Super-Takumar 55mm F1.8 - small & sharp (don't get the SMC one, the Super-Tak version is single coated so will be good for flares etc.). The normal rule of thumb for taking lenses for these anamorphic attachments is to find one with a simple lens recipe - the Helios 44-2 is normally a winner with most of these attachments, but if it's not working for you then you'll need to experiment. One thing to take account of, if this is really a Baby Iscorama rebranded etc. (as is claimed in this thread), then wide open they are dreamy soft.
  23. Don't get put off by the GH5, saw this the other day & it certainly doesn't disappoint
  24. You can dream can't you?! I personally think they'll do another half price sale at some point & you'll have to jump quick. The Micro was a waste of time & energy - a drone cam at best & they got it totally wrong. My guess is that they stopped production & just sold back stock, so no point of a sale. I'm happy with my OG Pocket & that comparison video just shows why - it's still can hold it's own against most things. This little camera isn't a pain to use & is stunning - they got it right & just not sure it'll happen like this for a while. The only reason I won't jump on the 4K bandwagon is that it really isn't as widely adopted as a delivery format as people seem to make out. TBH there isn't much you can watch on a 4K TV - Amazon/Netflix own brand product & YouTube/Vimeo, but the rest is HD. It took ages for HD to take off, not only as a delivery format but also a recording one too. I'm happy to no longer invest, just rent.
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