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Bioskop.Inc

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Everything posted by Bioskop.Inc

  1. I just hope here in the UK that an absolute lock down is announced either today or tomorrow - I do understand that laws have to be passed & as usual politics sometimes gets in the way, but it needs to be done now as people can't be trusted. They've asked us nicely (very British), but pictures of packed shopping spaces, parks & tubes/subways just speaks volumes of our modern times! I'm both lucky & unlucky - I took a part-time job as I decided that the media was becoming a lost cause to me. Unfortunately I'm a key worker & after my 2 weeks annual leave runs out (booked a mo
  2. Did say that i wasn't sure of the name of the lens, but I do know that it was a Kowa Prominar - I do think there are a few different types of Prominar, because the one my friend bought had a lot smaller rear element than my Sankor 16D. Anyways, I was always talking about the Sankor/Singer16D (even the 16C or F), never the Kowa. Kowa B&H no question - the others not so much, apart from the In-Flight Kowa, which is stunning, but not as good as a Bolex! Elmoscope I or Sankor/Singer 16D (even consider the 16C or 16F) go for about £250-300 (they've only really risen by about £100 in the
  3. Do not touch the Kowa Prominar 16s (I think that's what it's called, it has a narrow protruding rear element which is silver/metal) - it's not suitable at all, as its for super16 & vignettes like crazy. I mention this as some sellers try to pull fast ones with people mistaking it with it's bigger namesake. Seen lots of Elmoscope I lenses for cheap - same as 16D, but slightly different body & normally has the nice blue flares! Get a good copy & it's hard to beat. And yes start with something not too expensive first - I started with a 16D and was very happy. I then upgraded
  4. If you get a good 16D then that's a really good place to start, but the Elmoscope I is the same rebranded & they are normally cheaper - not the smallest, but none are really once rigged up. I wouldn't worry too much about single focus, as they only really make focusing a little quicker & once you get used to dual focus you can hit the sweet spot very quickly with practice. The whole rack focus thing is a little bit of a red herring, as you don't need to be able to for the majority of things you shoot. If it's narrative you are doing, then a simple Shot-Reverse-Shot is such a commo
  5. I've mentioned a few times over the years that this lens is limited & not very practical for many filming situations, but I suppose most people don't like searching too far back into the forum's history. It is a nice little lens & the glass is superb, but best for situations where you don't have to film past 5M & you'll need low powered diopters. You can rack a little, maybe a meter or 2, but not over a long distance - you need a taking lens with a decent amount of focus throw at the 5M mark & the use of a +0.3 or +0.5 helps, as does stopping down the lens a little. I used
  6. Thanks for this, will have to get myself a few now - who knows where we will be in a years time, might not be able to use cards in these old cameras?!
  7. This is the one Takumar that I haven't used with an Iscorama, all the others are some of my favourite lenses to use with an anamorphic attachment. I do use the Tair 11a 135mm f2.8 & it works amazingly well, in fact these longer focal lengths give you better image quality than wider lenses do. The one thing to watch out for when using vintage lenses is to test out where infinity really is - by this I mean that a lot of adaptors play safe & the reading of infinity on the lens isn't always spot on, so you might have to dial it back a fraction. I have quite a few M42 lenses that behav
  8. A friend of a friend is/was the manager of a band asked for my help & I did a few live videos for them, charged them peanuts (£200 for each) as I knew that they didn't have much cash. They asked me to do a doc type thing to promote them, so I quoted £400 & they agreed. However.....they paid me late for one video (6 months) & then asked if they could have the finished doc (which wasn't finished at that time) and they would pay me later. Now it took them nearly 6 months to pay me £200, so in my mind I would have to wait a year for £400 & there was always the chance that I'd never
  9. The Angenieux 35-70mm is parfocal & is vintage loveliness - also, is about the price range you mentioned, but can be had cheaper. NB: the 28-70 isn't, nor is the cheaper Tokina ATX Pro version of the 28-70mm (some people say that it is, but that is BS - so beware).
  10. A few things first: What does the speedbooster now make your sensor - is it S35/APS or FF? - If it's S35/APS, then the 58mm isn't going to cut it. You'll have to use an 85mm. (if it's FF, then that becomes 135mm). If you take off the Speedbooster & use the native M43, then you'll be able to use the Helios - in fact you could use a 50mm lens or you might get away with something smaller so try a 35 or a 40mm. That's your problem - you're using the wrong size taking lens. The larger Kowa will enable you to use a 45mm (maybe a 40mm) on APC size (with your speedbooster)
  11. Let me add to @mercer comments - cheap doesn't mean bad, but more likely with vintage lenses, just not wanted or not appreciated. Such a subjective & loaded question, especially here! I've owned such a lot & ended up with a full set of Russain [Zeiss copies] lenses - couldn't be happier. But ironically, I use my Tokina ATX-Pro 28-70mm zoom lens the most for pics & any filming I might do. But if I still filmed a lot, I think I would complete my Nikon Ai-S set, as when I look at things I've shot with the 24mm f2.8 or 50mm f1.8 I'm always satisfied - in fact, i'm gla
  12. Yes they should be - they're vintage lenses, so if other lenses of a similar age work, then there's no reason these shouldn't.
  13. @kaylee, I turn 47 next month & am freaking out! All my friends are married, some have kids & all of them have sensible, stable jobs that earn them a good comfortable living - I don't! The last few years, the work slowly started to dry up & I had to get a sensible part-time job. The realisation that I should perhaps move away from what I liked doing, to actually something that would leave me in a more comfortable position has been beckoning me for some time - should this become a hobby has become the question for a while now? Last year, I agreed to help a friend of a frie
  14. you'll need a special clamp - Redstan makes the best
  15. I think that it was discussed in this section of the forum a while back (a few years, maybe 5yrs), can't remember how much detail it went into - so go digging!
  16. Yep, The Rollei QBM Zeiss lenses are top quality & it seems vintage lenses go through phases - people forget or don't know. The good thing is that prices go up & down too! Here's 2 very good resources for anyone thinking of buying Nikon/Nikkor lenses: Lens Evaluations - spot on & identify the differences perfectly: http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html#rating Serial Numbers & dates made (makes identifying what you are buying a lot easier): http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#35
  17. LOL! That's the problem with bookmarking stuff, you totally forget what the website is called - great resource though & worth posting twice!
  18. I'll second the Yashica ML lenses - here's a good resource: https://cargocollective.com/yashica/About-Yashica-ML-Prime-Lenses Here's a list of M42 that hit or don't hit a 5D - Takumar 50mm f1.4 or the 55mm f1.8 (beware both have razor thin DoF wide open, but are sharp) https://www.panoramaplanet.de/comp/
  19. You've just made a great point with this B&W version of your Poster, without the distraction of the colour your eyes are drawn to the guy & they stay with him. In the colour version your eyes wonder around the frame & his silhouette gets lost in the sky. Nice shot, nice lens - keeping it on topic!
  20. If it has Tomioka on there, as well as Chinon etc. its the same lens - Tomioka made them & they were sold/rebranded (55mm f1.4 & F1.2). If there's no Tomioka on it, it might not be the real deal. @mercer Make it in B&W - so under rated these days (just think/watch Ida & Cold War). I shot something a while ago, in colour & have decided to go B&W for the edit - also saves a lot of time with CC!
  21. I just keep seeing Elmoscope I & 16Ds going quite cheap - also a lot in actual auction mode, not Buy It Now. I also hate it when people recommend the Isco Multi-coloured nonsense lenses - horrible. I just kept 4 & only really use 2 of them (Iscorama 54 & Widescreen 2000), not even sure where the other 2 are - storage somewhere?!
  22. Didn't read the speedbooster bit - just don't use the speedbooster, simple. Or even better, just put an 85mm lens on there - anamorphics work better with longer focal lengths. If you like the Helios, get a Jupiter 9 & a Tair 11a & you'll have a nice set (58mm, 85mm & 135mm) Personally, i'd keep away from the SLR Magic stuff, as the coatings are gross & they make the flares look nasty - also a lot more expensive.
  23. Yeah, it's a nice lens & as Tito said is basically identical to the Sankor 16D (some say its a rebranded Sankor), not the Kowa! It is exactly the same width at the back as the Version 2 & has blue flares (I think some don't, but the one I had did). The Elmoscope 2 is basically the same as a Kowa for B&H etc. They're cheap & good - not as small as you might think, but not massive. http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Anamorphic_Lenses#2x_Anamorphic_attachments
  24. Personally, the best bang for your buck would be the Singer/Sankor 16D or the Elmoscope I (they're basically the same lens) - they normally have the blue flares, are x2 stretch & are cheap. Yes, they might be slightly bigger than some other options out there, but they're not that big - not in comparison to say an Iscorama 54. The fact that they are cheap means that you can also afford to buy a variable diopter like a Rectilux, once you get fed up of the dual focus. Also, try to get yourself a Helios 44-2 as they have a preset aperture, which means you don't have click stops & so a
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