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Islamic site? Aljazeera is one of the least biased news corporations worldwide. http://www.democracynow.org/2015/10/12/headlines/nyc_warehouse_workers_launch_campaign_to_unionize_b_h_photo_video https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%26H_Photo_Video Its not about religion. Its about companies abusing workers.

Also, for general information, for free, you can check my blog at www.tferradans.com/anamorphic

The only other camera that comes close to the motion is the Ikonscope D16 or the Digital Bolex - but those both have native ASA of 200 - this is 400, which is what I really rate the red epic at and I rate the Red Dragon Highlight filter at 320 ASA - so it's more sensative - but also it has better overall color. The Sony F35 is a damn fine tool and has a meaty-ness to its images due to its super high resolution 8k sensor and true 4:4:4 chroma sampling. It's a real steal on ebay - $7k about for the system - and it's a tank - it works thru everything - extreme heat and cold and you can drop it a ton of times - it's a beast.

I would like to hear both sides of the story too. My limited interactions with B&H have made me feel they are a league apart from anyone else. But that's obviously a customer's perspective.

you guys are boycotting apple too right

Who says it's too wide? It boils down to personal taste largely. For me, the wider the better. BUT there is the issue of viewing device. If you're a youngin,' consuming all your vids on the intertubes through a mobile device, you are sacrificing a lot of screen real estate to those black bars. Reminds me of the time I was stuck on a long trip in the back of a minivan and popped the widescreen of Sparticus into the VHS (it was an old minivan) and it was both amusing and sad, how small the image was. I could barely make out the dimple in Kirk Douglas' chin...

Check out the listing for Sankor 16D in the Lens-cyclopedia for info. If you search these forums for 'Sankor 16D' you will no doubt find a lot of useful info! Redstan is an option, excellent quality but pricey, Jim Chang just posted about his new Rapido Technology products, and I myself have been playing around with finderscope rings. Normally used for telescopes, less precision, but sturdy and affordable if you dig around for a good deal.

An Islamic Site?! AJA is a relatively well regarded news organization, regardless of any biases you may have to where they are headquartered. Also: please search for the word 'Jewish' in that article. (Spoiler: you will not find it, because that's not what the story was about.) The author is American, she's from Massachusetts. Further, from what I've read, the photographer in that story is Jewish himself. I find the story pretty damning, but (a) B&H hasn't responded yet and (b) a second news agency hasn't picked it up -- only folks on photography/videography sites are forwarding/riffing on the original story. It's possible that this is just a muck-raking play to go with the shockingly timely announcement that the B&H workers are unionizing: http://lwcu.org/press-room/press-releases/b-h-photo-warehouse-workers/ ...but it's also entirely possible that B&H runs a sweatshop. I'd like a second story to either corroborate or rebut AJA before I make up my mind. - A

Hi, Bold, thanks, I spent quite $$$ on collecting those lenses, so I treasure them a lot...I am trying to get all the Iscorama lenses now...one is shipping from Germany now, it takes 4 weeks already, hope to get it sooner. :-)

Nice work Jim.

The camera I could buy, not like I have the cash just lying around but its doable. What Im really jelous of is your skills. You are the man Ed. Would love some BTS from you with some of your thoughts and workflow.

Totally... and it's more than welcome. But i've been around this forum long enough to know how things work here. Some people will always just give you the pat on the back, but I've seen good honest feedback on this forum... and I think that's mainly what I was getting. I think you were honest, and I also think the others were honest. Thanks for your feedback!

I ask the question sincerely. 273 million young viewers accept this ratio without question.

Hello all, Tito has kindly allowed me to do some streamlining of the Lens-yclopedia database: I have templatized all the entries so key information is in the same location when you cycle through the pages.The template improves overall readability of the information.I've broken up Mounting Solutions into To Filter, To Taking Lens, and Lens SupportI’ve changed the Index to a spreadsheet that provides key stats for easy ‘comparison shopping’I’ve removed a couple lens entries that had no (or next to no) information.I've added a few bits of info on various lenses as I went through, particularly links to example footage.I’ve made significant updates to the B&H and B&L entries based on the info I gathered from EOSHD, as well as other locations. I'll keep adding to them as I embark on modding/using my lenses.Check out the updated Lens-yclopedia here. A great big huge thanks to Tito for allowing me to build on his great work. And to all the folks who have responded to my info-seeking posts. The information people have provided here has been invaluable for a newcomer like me. I was surprised at how much info I was able to find on the B&L, I cited sources in the Lens-yclopedia entry where I could - I would love to see all entries given source/reference links. I know people’s time is limited, but even just a morsel of info here & there would really help re-invigorate the database and make it more robust. A little crowd-sourcing can go a long way! I am considering periodically starting ‘Seeking Info About X Lens” threads to build up the other lens entries in the Lens-cyclopedia. If this is something you would like to see (or help me with), please chime in. If you want to send info my way (corrections, answers to red question marks, Lens-yclopedia functionality, etc), I will find time to update the database appropriately. Cheers, |. . | .|

Hello folks, So I'm currently shopping for a G7 and Ive seen a pretty great deal online from someone selling them out of Korea. Now I'm currently just doing my homework but I can't seem to.find this answer anywhere else. Because this person is selling it out of Korea I suspect that it is a European or Asian model of this camera. I just want to know if the Global version of this camera has the same options as the North American one would. (I.E. 24fps vs. 25) Thanks!

The finale (Last reel) of Abel Gance's Napoléon from 1927 has an aspect ratio of 4:1

Unfortunately, most settlements are not instigated by the victims, but are brought on by lawyers. I'm not saying that B&H didn't abuse workers, only that all companies, when they reach a certain size, are targeted by lawyers who make the real money. It's the American way. I have a fair amount of experience in Wall Street settlements and what the public sees as some large number, is actually quite small, a cost of doing business. In other words, even if B&H were no better or worse than any other company, it would still end up paying $5.7 million to settle SOMETHING. Generally, various law firms attack companies and join together to get something. Not pretty! I'd like to say the government is un-biased, but it too, is run by politicians looking to score points with voters (who never look at the details). We all accept that this happens, I believe, because we understand the best we can do is keep a fire under everyone's butt. If B&H was really bad they would get fined out of business. If one doesn't buy what I'm saying then I ask, have you never gotten a ticket (for your car) that really had little to do with safety and a lot to do with shaking you down? Ahhh life!

Anyone who has spent even 30 seconds in B&H picks up that it's run by Orthodox Jews. To mention that nowhere in the story, whether the New York Times, or Aljazeera makes one question the reporter's competence, if not their eye-sight. Because of the work-ethic of Orthodox Jews, (like closing on Saturday) I can't see how it is not relevant. Also, to add to my previous post. There are probably hundreds of electronic stores in NYC alone. B&H is not successful because of cheap prices only. It's a very well-run store.

Great work TIm! I added a copy of the spreadsheet to the Lens-cylopedia!

This whole story smells fishy. If it is soo horrible, then don't work there. They aren't slaves. The part that made me question them is the stacks of pallets bit... An electronics pallet is probably 5 feet tall, so 3 high sounds like normal practice to me. And then they speak of not being trained... It sounds like union rhetoric. As if B&H, one of the largest camera stores in America is going to allow untrained fork lift drivers barreling around millions of dollars of fragile merchandise.

Hi all, Inspired by Tito and Bold and their anamorphic Lens-cyclopedia, I decided to try and make a list of low power diopters useful for anamorphic video. Using the info in this thread and searching on the web, I compiled a list which may be useful for anyone looking for suitable diopters. I've attached the list as PDF. Feel free to comment and/or correct. The list may (hopefully) end up as an add-on to the online Lens-cyclopedia. Diopters.pdf

Well regarded by you maybe, but not everyone, which is the point. They lost all credibility with me when they were doing all the coverage of the Egyptian uprising. The Muslim Brotherhood was paying and supplying people to do the protests and riots and Aljazeera dutifully helped sell the whole deception.

I dig some history about those lenses: those type I lens are the B&L improvement of the French Hyperginar designs, but still has quite a lot aberrations, especially the mump and breathing problem, I wouldn't cut them in half and adjust the distance between front and rear glass, this not only changes the squeeze ratio, but also increases the chance of getting none-concentric alignment between front and rear glass. I will take out the glass completely, and make a new housing, a lighter one, and use external device for adjusting focus. Its a little bid heavy lifting...Probably only for the people who pursue unique looks out of this lens, people like me, :-) I wil share more when I am done with this mod, :-)

So this was being discussed a bit in the ursa thread but I feel it deserves its own topic. Sony is now offering the F5 for $15,900. 24 month 0% financing. The 4K internal model. This price includes the sony viewfinder, shoulder pad, tripod mount, sxs reader, full copy of davinci resolve AND the brand new a7s II camera. Seems like a pretty interesting deal! Does the f5 record ten bit prores to the shogun? I assume the internal 4K is 8 bit? So do you guys like the deal? Definitely an enticing package, no?

Yep, they are heavy suckers. Looks like you've got a custom (PVC?) rear housing on that one? I'm definitely interested in re-housing the B&L (another reason I picked up a spare), though I'm not sure what the best approach is. And beyond my bandwidth for the short term but I imagine one could cut the weight by half if the right materials were used. If you have any thoughts/ideas on re-housing, please share!

thanks, Bold, the only thing is it's weight, I am trying to rehousing some of the bigger anamorphic projection lens now, just to cut its weight, btw, the glass is gorgeous in those bigger lens. I recently got a Gaumont males projection lens, super sharp image and big rear glass OD>100mm. I love it. Working on an adapter to get closer focus now. :-) i guess I can shoot 70mm using that lens. Just like Quentin did in his "the heightful eight", :-) btw, I actually got two of these lens, :-) ready to jump in for this mod.

Finderscope rings + lens collar + 15mm rail baseplate = a total of $71 with shipping...an affordable solution for big projection lenses. I just picked up a second B&L as a backup or possibly to do this mod, or maybe for two-camera coverage someday. The seller has four more at a very reasonable price. I am in no way affiliated with the seller, nor do I know their condition (seller claims they're good)...just floating it out there if anyone interested in dabbling with a B&L. Cheers, |. . | .|

I use waveform and vectorscope.(YUV). I prefer waveform to RGB parade because: You get the whole width for each color, whereas in an RGB parade you split the widthYou can tell if the color is neutral for the area you want by checking if the colors in the waveform overlap at the area to show white...can't do that with paradeAnd I always also use vectorscope. It is invaluable for checking a bunch of things, like color casts, skin color, over saturation, etc. IMHO curves are for still photography, not video. And I believe folks who use curves in grading are old timers who are just more familiar and comfortable with them. You can never get the kind of 12 dimensional control you can get with lift/gamma/gain x overall/shadows/midtones/highlights combination. They can be useful in some special situations though, as well as act as poor-man's LUTs that you can store and apply each time to your footage.

I've edited 4K on my MBP and haven't really seen a problem with it. If anyone wants me to try like 12bit 4K shoot me a link and I'll do it right away. But like GH4 stuff is seamless on my machine.

1. Avoid units with bright blue or purple front element coatings - the majority of early silver units are of this nature. - the coatings flare up and peak the blue channel in a horrible way. 2. search for a unit with bronze/gold coatings which will match the coatings on your isco really well. also the purple coated lenses starting with serials 72, 73, 74 have a nice magenta coating which also matches well with the isco and also doesnt peak any channels. 3. the jupiter is a sonnar design which tends to also peak in the blue/green channel of a sensor in a condensed spot of colour depending on the coatings 4. avoid the majority of m39 jupiters since these are usually for 'Leica L39' mount - you can tell them apart since they have a longer body than the m42 units. m39 helios lenses are the same as m42 units in their adaptability. just use a m39 to m42 adaptor ring before your ef adaptor ring. 5. avoid af confirm chips at all cost if using on canon bodies - a plain brass adaptor, with silver nickel coating is best for canon cameras. on the flip side, if using with a metabones adaptor you need an adaptor with a af confirm chip since without often means the longer pins on the metabones adaptor cause short circuits when they touch the non af confirm adaptors. 6. there are a number of very cool night vision lenses of around 100mm in m42 mount. infact i think there is a 100/2 lens. I've not used it, but I imagine it will be rather nice. however might not have a built in aperture. if you can find a variation of the m42 100mm/2 with a built in aperture it'll be killer since its a planar design. 7. if going for a sonnar type 85mm lens (like the jupiter9), i'd match it with a 135mm/2.8 like an early pentacon 135mm/2.8. I have found the carl zeiss tessar 135/4 works very nicely with the 'rama 36. its normally found in rollei sl35/qbm mount. being old and without t* coatings it matches the early russians rather well!, and is dirt cheap though not shot on russin lenses, I shot this with the Iscorama (single coated) and a set of Rollei SL35 lenses. as I recall I used 35mm/2.8 distagon, 50mm/1.8 planar, 135mm/4 tessar. each of these was a non HFT unit meaning they are earlier units. going rate for the 50mm is around £50, the 135/4 is about £35 and the 35/2.8 is around £130. pretty cheap for a matched set that performs so well. if shooting full frame just go for the 85/2.8 instead of the 35/2.8.

I echo that sentiment, fantastic product! And nice collection of anamorphics!

Difference to Vid-Atlantic: 1: Better concentric alignment 2: No tightening mark on the anamorphic lens 3: Faster, quicker and more repeatable realignment, which means you can switch between your anamorphic lenses faster....and quicker....like a pro Difference to Redstan: 1: No need to have different adapter for different anamorphic lens, just use the same base adapter (M55-M67 version or M67-M77 version), and find the customized step-down rings, and you are done. I found this very helpful if I want to quickly change different lenses during shot. 2: Cheaper solution, One base adapter plus customized step-down rings is much affordable comparing to customized adapter for each anamorphic lens Difference to Both Redstan & Vid-Atlantic: 1: Easy to followed instruction with illustrations on how to adapt, see this for example: http://www.rapidotechnology.com/products-services/customized-step-up-down-rings/adapter-for-bolex-moller-lens/bolex-moller-anamorphot-16-32-1-5x Hope now it clears. Thanks, Jim

This is what a guy told me over at another forum; "There are two things to install with NVIDIA cards. One is the Web Driver. That will install the NVIDIA driver manager and will provide the BETA driver for MacBook Pro and iMac, as well as GPU support for NVIDIA cards on MacPro. That link is: http://www.nvidia.com/download/driverResults.aspx/92192/en-usThe other is CUDA driver. There's a lot of details on this if you care to read/search, but basically it allows GPU to do "work" that the CPU could do. The CUDA driver just needs to be updated for OS X 10.11. Most people do not do this regularly. That driver link is: http://www.nvidia.com/object/mac-driver-archive.htmlFYI - Adobe supports GPU acceleration and that is usually through CUDA or OpenGL. There is a bug with OpenGL and Adobe right now, so changing to CUDA fixes most of this for video apps. The "Metal" support is another issue entirely..." Hope it helps!

Was just looking at them myself and for 250 extra, just go with the 4GHz, no question about it.

Sanveer, not sure you're listening to the answers given by others above Sensor size issues are similar to the saying in automobiles, "there is no replacement for displacement". Certainly a turbo-charged 4 cylinder car match a large engine at high speeds, but not at low ones. Similarly, in good light and wide DOF cell phone cameras can hold their own. In LOW light, or when shallow DOF is needed, nothing works as well as a full-frame sensor. A lot of it is physics. It is NOT because the companies aren't trying, or are purposely crippling the cameras (for example, why would Apple care if it hurts Nikon, Canon, Sony, etc?). Also, zoom lenses HAVE trade-offs. Look at a RAW file BEFORE IN CAMERA ADJUSTMENTS and you will see this. Even prime lenses have their issues with DxO makes software to deal with. As you point out, most lenses don't resolve their sensors. Think about that! You're wondering why cell phones aren't as good as DSLR but recognize that DSLRs still aren't as good as they should be! I agree!

Yeah you have to go into your menu favorites to switch to 60p. Keep in mind the audio is compressed 256kbps in mp4 and linear PCM in AVCHD - so if you think you might have to do a lot of audio manipulation in post, you should probably go with avc.

35 is only available at 60p .... Bob

Billboards doesnt require a very good picture since its viewed from such a distance.

I don't know much about Hitfilm, but I would imagine they have some color plug ins, or something. And, I was able to use davinci lite 11 on a MacBook Air without any issues, so you may have more than enough power with your pc. Btw, yeah the c-mounts are a blast. I am in the middle of editing a comparison video between the nx500, the a5100 and the eos-m with ML. The results are actually surprising me.

ha, I was giving it a shot just for fun, but I'm also horrible, so might not post any of my results actually realized I don't even know how to raise blacks or try to pull detail out of the highlights with Hitflim (not that you need those for this task) but I may not be very equipped for any specialist tasks. could be a nice shot to try it with though, since their aren't like street lamps and a bright sun in the shot. definitely would want a bluer, underexposed look for that. yeah, I'm a fan of ML and the 3x crop on the t3i as well. kinda wish I'd went with the eos-m, myself. old c-mounts sound fun :3

In tests I've seen the image quality is indiscernible.

Ursa mini is completely new and early adopters will have to live through it's inevitable bugs and quirks. F5 is a proven work horse. You can also knock down the media costs by using qxd cards with adapters for internal recording. Plus internal ND, plus significantly more light sensitivity. And zero percent financing over 2 years is extremely nice from a business perspective.

You can get a great lens setup if you can live without AF. I'm thinking of getting the NX1 and a Samsung wide for steadicam and seeing how AF does; but for everything else, I'm really happy with my Nikkor primes, some of them I've shot with for 15 years. Favorites for a budget setup: 85mm 1.8 Af is gorgeous, under $300; Series E 100mm 2.8, under $100 and really really nice budget lens… 28mm AIS is legendary, under $300 and a great "normal" lens on APS-C/super 35. Add any version of the 50mm 1.8 for next to nothing and maybe a Rokinon wide if you need something in the 12-14mm range. I use the 28-70 2.8 often when I need a zoom for tight spaces or fast gigs, that's more in the $700 and up range though. And you can get an old beater push-pull 80-200 2.8 for a couple hundred these days - I skip it when I can use the 85 or 100, but for really long shots on APS-C, it's got a sexy look, but having rails and a lens support is mandatory. The 180mm 2.8 AF is also a superb lens and affordable if you really need a long lens and don't want to use the giant zoom. The 300mm F4 AF is a killer and usually well under a grand if you need to go crazy long, too.

I hope the Panasonic CM1 evolves and offers a little more video-wise in the next generation. Even so, I've been tempted for awhile with the current version.

I wouldn't abandon the idea of the fz1000 so quickly. Think about pairing it with the G7. You can practically get the G7 and the FZ1000 for the price of the NX1.

Too cool white balance, too much blue in skin tones. Something like that will be more natural :

My Orion clamps arrived today. I was worried that they might be a little too small. I removed the red B&L ring and slid one over and it fits snugly between the retaining ring and the focus ring. So snugly in fact nylon screws may not even be necessary. I noticed when I slid the red retaining ring back on & tightened it (until it locked with the focus ring), I was able to turn the focus well past the minimum 50ft distance mark. A couple posts above you can see the focus marks on both the black and silver models. In the picture above I've screwed the focus so far down that it completely covers all the focus markings. I'm curious to see what the resulting min. focus distance will be. I wanted to attach the second Orion ring to the 77.35mm section (see measurements picture in previous post) but the nylon screws are about 1.5mm too short to get a solid purchase. I can probably do a little sanding at the base of each screws to get the rest of the way, or try to find longer screws. Alternately, I could attach the second ring to the 85.10mm section of the barrel: But I want the stabilization points to be farther apart along the body of the lens. So I ordered a cheap lens collar: Which should give the perfect fit. Then I can fasten the Orion ring & the Canon collar to a 15mm baseplate, and it will be good to go. Once my Xetron XA arrives I'll probably use the 2nd Orion ring (and pick up another Canon collar and 15mm baseplate) for that, so that each lens has its own dedicated support. If you need a support solution a big honking anamorphic lens, you should consider the Orion clamps. They'll fit anything from 105mm down to 80mm in diameter. They are heavy duty and inexpensive. Cheers, |. . | .|

I had a chance to unpack my recently-acquired Bausch & Lomb and poke at it. Here are my caliper measurements of diameters, accurate to within +/- 0.1mm Here I've unscrewed the focus ring (note the the looooooooong barrel thread): At the top you can see there's some space between the lip of the front element housing and the main housing (green arrow). I'm wonder if loosening the screw (other green arrow) allows the front housing to be pushed down. From the Anamorphic Lens-cyclopedia: The lens can be set to closer than the minimum focus of 50 feet by turning it past this setting and pushing the front element housing down to its maximum depth within the lens body. [source]. With luck this may allow focusing closer than 12ft, which is the lens' reported minimum focus distance. It's also reported that it the B&L can use lenses as wide as 35mm on a micro 4/3 sensor without vignetting. Once I have all the support pieces assembled, I'm looking forward to testing the minimum focus & vignetting with my MIR 1B 37mm. The B&L's weight is reported as approximately 8 pounds...by far the heaviest in the Lens-cyclopedia. So for support I'm going fasten these finderscope rings to a DSLR mounting plate, then affix the B&L, and put it on rails (basically my variation of the Tecnoir support rig, which doesn't appear to be available anymore). More info to come. Cheers, |. . | .|

As much as hard data like weight, dimensions, modifications etc would add value to this thread, specific caveats like optical imperfections are also useful. Could you link to some clips that illustrate the uneven glass? Do you mean anamorphic "mumps"?

Do not buy these useless beasts. They are too stubborn and clumsy. My Rectimascop 64/2X is sitting on the shelf looking all stupid at me.