docmoore

DR Studio has OFX film grain as part of the software ... it is good ... I also have FilmConvert and Red Giant Looks as OFX ... but FC takes twice as long to render ... so I usually use the bundled film grain ... as 35mm grain but I adjust size density and color of the grain. It allows for a bit more realistic look without being simu-film in character. Increases perceived sharpness due to edge effect, masks noise, .... covers a multitude of flaws. Just add as a node ... and vary the intensity to personal preference.

Bottom front button is AF default selector .... you can rotate through the choices ... and the i Menu is direct to AF and FX/DX selection ... it remembers your last choice as the highlighted select choice. The menu is configurable in stills and in video mode for your most frequently used settings and frame rates and profiles. AF in video is best as AF-F wide area ... LCD view gives a great approximation of the exposure ... once you get used to it you will not need a meter for 95% of situations. There is a live histogram in one of the display modes ... in the five percent difficult backlight situations just flip to stills mode ... center weight meter and set your manual exposure ... shutter and aperture ... then back to video mode ... round trip is 5 to 10 seconds max. But an external recorder with waveforms is still best ... it gives realtime magnified view and you can use false color zebras and peaking if desired. Most of these cameras have peculiarities that seem difficult at first but after one or two days they no longer present much of a problem.

Look for a R6 ... best of the R cameras ... or an older SL2 ... great viewfinder.

Exposure is fairly easy with the M6 ... three LED indicators ... under arrow correct dot and over arrow. Even half lit to show close but slight under or over exposure. The meter itself tends to underexpose with wide angle lenses as the predominant area metered is the sky ... so the manual suggests tilting the camera towards the ground to meter then compose normally ... limiting the predominance of the sky's brightness. With practice you will find the sweet spot for most exposures unless a scene is predominantly white or black .... where you need to add a compensation factor. The meter will also be "fooled" by excessive backlight ... so step up to the subject to meter and then step back to compose and shoot. Another suggestion is that grass is a close approximation of middle grey ... just point at the grass to meter then accommodate for any offset light that may skew the exposure. Thorsten Overgaard ... has a decent writeup that may help with using a M camera ... Great camera ... difficulty for you is you can only focus by guess ... as the R adapter does not couple to the rangefinder. So F2 on a Summicron may give you a lot of unfocused shots. With a 24 or 21 at F 5.6 - F 8 you can zone focus and pretty much everything will be acceptable.

New skin but he manipulates the image path with optional inserts and coatings... https://nofilmschool.com/2013/03/dog-schidt-optiks-modifying-vintage-russian

Not even close ... there is a small badge of a dog in a squat on the lenses. Truth is Richard takes marginal glass and makes it sing. But is humble enough to acknowledge the fact he was not using Zeiss or Leica or Schott glass at that point. Loved the lenses ... which quickly escalated to levels that most cannot afford. Tongue in cheek ... not immature.

Guys the Ninja 5 video shows eye AF in video mode with the blonde model ... already working ... just need to give us the keys.

No cropped like the internal ... it is 10 bit 4:2:2 ... shame it is not FF.

90 percent of my lenses are not AF Nice for certain shoots but not a deal breaker... FF 4K 10 bit is a valuable addition to the mirrorless range of cameras. It was the Z 7 or the Canon C200 ... not missing the Canon at all.

Correct I have Andrew Reid's ZLog but most of my shoots are controlled on a major tripod and video head ... external recorder ... and again ... AF seems to be acceptable for me on the Z 7 with Nikon Z-Log in 10 bit. If I am traveling with the camera ... without all the ephemerata of recorder etc then AR ZLog will be great.

N-Log is only 10 bit and only to an external recorder ... you can simultaneously record UHD 8 bit internal but not N-Log. Nikon restricted it to 10 bit as most Log is kinda challenged with the limited color space in 8 bit. Canon has a decent 8 bit log ... but probably because their color science is good enough people are not pushing it in post.

On the Z 7 there are 493 AF PDAF sites ... on the Z 6 there are 273 AF PDAF sites ... do not have a clue if this would account for the difference. My setting for AF is AF-F Wide area ... not messing with face detect ... so it also may not be good if the issue is face detect.

External 10bit N-Log with the Z 7 AF is quite good ... have not taken the time to compare as I always use an external recorder with 10bit N-Log when using the Z 7. Is this AF on the Z 6 with the 24-70 or with all three native lenses?

Link closed ... lack of interest ...