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Andrew Reid

I WILL be getting a Fuji X-T3!

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Does anyone if any PD portable battery pack will work with the Fuji X-T3?

I already own the PowerCore 10000 and 26800, but I am considering getting the 5000 for short shoots.

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs
2 hours ago, Super8 said:

Is the X-H1 a relavent camera in 2020?  How does it compare to the newer Fuji cameras for video?


X-H1 has IBIS (the only Fuji to have this) but lacks 10bit internal, thus is both "the best" and is "not the best", depending on your perspective! And what matters to you. 

But popular opinion is usually choosing the X-T3 over the X-H1 if they're buying a new camera today from Fuji

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3 hours ago, Super8 said:

Is th X-H1 a relavent camera in 2020?  How does it compare to the newer Fuji cameras for video?

You already know the difference in specs, but do you want to shoot log? If yes, then the X-T3 is highly recommended over the X-H1.

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I swapped XH1 for XT3 for video in order to get:

60p 4K 10bit eternal.

The sacrifice was the superior build and handling of the XH1 and of course IBIS.

Just give me the spec of the XT3 with IBIS in the XT4 and my spec quest ends for at least the next 3 years.

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2 hours ago, Video Hummus said:

I wonder why they didn’t release a X-H2 with these rumored X-T4 specs first?

I think Fuji has too many lines of X Mount cameras, with all these ranges: Mx, Ax, Ex, Txx, Tx, Hx, and Prox!!

7 lines just for APS-C is a crazy number, especially for a small brand such as Fuji. 
Of course, I think we're never going to see a "X-M2" in the future. The X-M1 was a one off, so really it is just six types of cameras. 
Am suspected the X-H1 will be like the X-M1, and it is going to be a one off that never gets repeated. 
Which brings down Fuji's line to five different camera bodies, which is still quite a lot, but is a much more manageable number. 

And that is why they didn't bring out a X-H2 before the X-T4

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21 minutes ago, MeanRevert said:

Haven't seen it mentioned yet but Fuji really needs to add False Color as an exposure option. It's helped me a bunch with the Blackmagic.

Hoping for false color for GH6 as well. Such a handy tool to have for LOG footage. 

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I am a first-time poster but a long-time reader. These forums and this thread in particular has been a real service, so many thanks to you all.

I love my X-T3, but there are a few things that I cannot seem to configure that keep me from turning to it for most of my video. One of them is single-button autofocus ("one button AF" or "instant AF" or maybe "back button focus" for video). On my Canon C100 with dual-pixel AF, I can keep the camera on manual focus for most of my shoot, then press and hold one button to activate continuous autofocus when events start moving quickly and I know I cannot keep up, then release the button and go right back to manual focus. It seems like I should be able to do the same with the X-T3, but I've tried everything I can think of and am stumped. One of the downsides of having so many focusing options is that I am probably overlooking something, or two settings might be cancelling each other out. The closest I can get is:

  • Setting up back button focus in AF-M mode. This works when the camera is not recording, but poorly: the exposure briefly shifts and the focus hunts at random (maybe using contrast-detect AF?). And once I start recording video, the button is disabled.
  • Using AF-Lock in AF-S or AF-C mode. This is the reverse of what I am looking for, since autofocus is the default. Plus, manual focus seems to be disabled even during AF-Lock.
  • Simply switching between AF-M and AF-C. Fine, but then I am switching back and forth and have to think about which one is active at all times; it is easier to just press and hold a button when I need AF. Plus the switch is designed such that it is pretty much impossible to activate without shaking the camera, so I cannot really change it within a shot. Using one of the Fn buttons would be better.

Any ideas on this? Thanks again for all your insights over the past months.

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Fujifilm X-T3 – firmware 3.20

The firmware update Ver.3.20 from Ver.3.10 incorporates the following issues:

1. Enhanced autofocus.
* Improving the tracking performance of the eye AF frame, making it easier to attain accurate autofocus on the eyes.
* Improving face-detection performance when there are faces of different sizes within the same frame, making it easier to attain accurate autofocus.
* Improving autofocus capability on a foreground subject even when there is a mixture of foreground and background subjects within a AF frame, causing the foreground subject to go out of focus, e.g. when shooting flowers against a busy background.

2. Capability to save up to 9,999 pictures in each folder.
Until now, the number of pictures that can be saved in a folder on an SD card was limited to 999. This update will raise the limit by ten times to 9,999 pictures.

3. The phenomena below during a movie shooting are fixed.
* Focus hunting at the minimum aperture.
* A black line can sometimes appear on the bottom of the center.

4. Fix of minor bugs.

https://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/xt3/index.html

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13 hours ago, samander said:

I am a first-time poster but a long-time reader. These forums and this thread in particular has been a real service, so many thanks to you all.

I love my X-T3, but there are a few things that I cannot seem to configure that keep me from turning to it for most of my video. One of them is single-button autofocus ("one button AF" or "instant AF" or maybe "back button focus" for video). On my Canon C100 with dual-pixel AF, I can keep the camera on manual focus for most of my shoot, then press and hold one button to activate continuous autofocus when events start moving quickly and I know I cannot keep up, then release the button and go right back to manual focus. It seems like I should be able to do the same with the X-T3, but I've tried everything I can think of and am stumped. One of the downsides of having so many focusing options is that I am probably overlooking something, or two settings might be cancelling each other out. The closest I can get is:

  • Setting up back button focus in AF-M mode. This works when the camera is not recording, but poorly: the exposure briefly shifts and the focus hunts at random (maybe using contrast-detect AF?). And once I start recording video, the button is disabled.
  • Using AF-Lock in AF-S or AF-C mode. This is the reverse of what I am looking for, since autofocus is the default. Plus, manual focus seems to be disabled even during AF-Lock.
  • Simply switching between AF-M and AF-C. Fine, but then I am switching back and forth and have to think about which one is active at all times; it is easier to just press and hold a button when I need AF. Plus the switch is designed such that it is pretty much impossible to activate without shaking the camera, so I cannot really change it within a shot. Using one of the Fn buttons would be better.

Any ideas on this? Thanks again for all your insights over the past months.

I also miss that from Canon. I took the opposite approach to get a similar functionality -- using the AF-lock function. Make sure to set the AF-L button to work in S (switch) mode, in the button/dial setting menu. (Otherwise it's only locked while you hold the button down.) 

Set the camera to AF-C, then lock the focus when it's where you need it. (A little blue AF-L will appear on the screen.) If you need to adjust focus, press the AF-lock button and let it re-acquire focus, then lock it back up again. This is how I shoot -- keeps it from hunting unnecessarily.

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13 hours ago, EphraimP said:

Fun videos. Are you using autofocus for these and stopping down to get more depth of field to keep the subject in focus?

thanks! I was mostly using Samyang 12mm f2 and a few times the Fujinon 35mm 1.4 with AF. I find that it works for me if I don't move to fast on the gimbal. I think I was arround 2.8 on the 35mm

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12 hours ago, andrew_dotdot said:

I also miss that from Canon. I took the opposite approach to get a similar functionality -- using the AF-lock function. Make sure to set the AF-L button to work in S (switch) mode, in the button/dial setting menu. (Otherwise it's only locked while you hold the button down.) 

Set the camera to AF-C, then lock the focus when it's where you need it. (A little blue AF-L will appear on the screen.) If you need to adjust focus, press the AF-lock button and let it re-acquire focus, then lock it back up again. This is how I shoot -- keeps it from hunting unnecessarily.

Thanks very much. Yes, this is probably as close as it's going to get. It's just unfortunate that I can't fine tune the focus manually when it is locked, but I usually set a pretty deep depth of field if I am using AF anyway.

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Does anyone know any reasonably inexpensive FD speedboosters for X systems? I've found a no brand one on Ebay for £65, which seems pretty good, but wondering if there's a go-to option that other people are using.

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I use Zhongyi Lens Turbo II, but with EF mount. Am very happy with it, every lens works great. 

They offer a great variety of mounts to choose from, Canon FD included, but it may take you some time to find it. 

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Is the UHD crop mode on the X-T3 only available for high speed shooting? I was wondering if you can set lower speeds like 25 fps in crop mode (with a view to using some old C-mount lenses on it).  

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