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Yeah, just casually looking at flange distance, I was, like, "How's that work?" But those of us poors do hope that there are ways to outflank expenses, regardless of our ignorance. After all, the image of the Arriflex camera with a Nikon mount conversion is cool, as my go to lens is an old Nikkor 50mm that I put on my m43 gear all the time. Still, the more this 2C sits on the shelf and I look at it, the more I'm keen to really take a run at shooting a reel. Now, just have to write a worthwhile idea... And, in a neat wrinkle, I could use one of the oldest cameras with the newest film stock: https://www.kodak.com/en/motion/product/camera-films/verita-200d-5206-7206/

The only setup that's truly "wrong" is one that you don't enjoy using and that doesn't get you the photos that you want. The primary camera of a friend of mine is a pinhole that she made herself from... I think it's a coffee can or a cocoa powder jar. The photos are low-resolution, dreamy, and perfect. My setup would be totally wrong for her, or you, but I quite like it! I was at Photostock a few years ago when David Burnett was the speaker - he is famously still shooting sporting events and major political events using either a speed graphic or converted Graflex SLR with an Aero Ektar. At that event, however, he was carrying the camera he uses most of the time - an A7c with a small Sony lens. Not a setup that I'd choose, but if it's good enough for one of the most famous living photographers, it's probably not "wrong." 😅 A number of the big name classic cinematographers/filmmakers favored lenses between 40-60mm or so FF equivalent. A lot of classic street photographers like 35-50mm because it's seen as immersive. But if you want an outsider perspective, your choice of a 70mm seems appropriate!

https://fotodioxpro.com/products/fltr-spy?srsltid=AfmBOorgYN_vx9pKJxxTg1DIdSUlKXOxH46m5QoEa0-ggy5WdjZGQmhq

After digesting my trip to China, I'm now planning the next trip to Japan, where we're mostly in a remote location but we have a few days in Tokyo in the middle so I'll try and spend as much time shooting there as I can (which really means leisurely meandering around shooting and having breaks with delicious food / drinks etc). My equipment lessons from the China trip included: The GH7 is a workhorse and I don't think about using it at all, just on what I'm shooting The 14-140mm is a great all-round day lens for home video stuff The Takumar 50mm F1.4 on speed booster is good, but a little soft on the sides of the frame and the rectangular insert is probably a bit much I also learned a bunch of stuff about how to shoot in crowded situations without drawing too much attention to myself. I suspect that this is an infinitely-deep rabbit-hole that the best shooters probably do unconsciously, but like all things practice makes improvement. One thing I did that I think also worked well was to just shoot as fast and as much as possible. Not only did it lead to more shots and variety for the edit, but I think it also potentially helped me be less in my head and shoot more instinctually, which I suspect will yield more creative and expressive results. I've been thinking a lot (and talking to friends) about what I'm learning and what equipment is appropriate: The 70mm FOV seems potentially universal because in crowded situations you want to focus in on something so the frame isn't just full of chaos (photography is the art of subtraction), but in situations where there are less people you get spotted at a much greater distance and so having the longer lens means you can still get closer shots of people without actually getting close to them If my goal is to make edits that feel more immersive, then it makes sense to shoot with a lens that's roughly "normal" so it has a perspective similar to the human eye, which is about 50mm on FF. Having 70mm is a bit longer and would introduce a slight element of distance between myself and the subject, which is emotionally appropriate as I am an outsider in the places / cultures I visit, so this is coherent and adds to all the other decisions I'll make in what I shoot / how I shoot / how I edit / etc. I mentioned wanting a lens that was a bit sharper on the sides of the frame to someone and they countered by saying that having such a limitation will make my work more consistent (not only from the images themselves but also because it means I tend to compose with the subject nearer the centre of the frame) so this is a reasonable counter-point Despite all this, I suspect that I'll want a wider lens for when I get into the emptier narrow streets where it's more about the location rather than the people in it, and I suspect this is closer to 35mm or so As such, I'm mostly settled on the following lens contingent: 9mm F1.7 - for getting that wide-angle distortion that makes buildings etc really pop 14-140mm F3.5-5.6 - for day-time home video shooting 50mm F1.4 with SB - for that 70mm "night cinema" goodness 12-35mm F2.8 - for the wider "night cinema" duties, and being a zoom it means that I can use whatever focal length works for this task (35mm equivalent is just a guess) but also combined with the AF I can shoot a variety of angles / compositions really quickly I'm also likely taking the following, partly as just-in-case and partly to experiment with: TTartisans 17mm F1.4 - if I find that the 35mm FOV is desirable then this is a fast prime I can swap to TTartisans 50mm F1.2 - obviously I'm a fan of the 70mm FOV and I wonder if this 100mm FOV would be useful / workable, especially as it's super fast with shallow DOF Risespray 35mm F1.6 c-mount - this is about a stop slower than the Takumar+SB combo but seems cleaner wide-open so is a way to challenge my assumption about needing the speed of the Tak I'm also contemplating shooting 24p rather than 23.976p, and also 1080p instead of C4K. Both decisions have pros and cons to them though.

To those like me, this is the most important day of the year, so my best wishes to everyone!

As an American I'd like to quote the immortal words, the best words, the POTUS has shared on this holiest of days, "Praise be to Allah" Seriously though, it would be wonderful if there were more folks truly (not just pretending) trying to live by the actual authentic philosophies of the New Testament. If only we could be so lucky. Happy Easter.

Even better than that, I have the camera on a wrist strap and shoot with it at chest height like you describe, which means that when I'm walking / standing around the camera is barely visible, unlike a shoulder-strap where the strap and camera are front-and-centre all the time. Lots of other things come to mind.. If there are people standing around in clumps, stand right next to one of them. This way you'll sort-of become part of the group, so people walking by will just identify there's a group of people there and 'see' all of you as one thing and walk around you, and people looking around won't be drawn to you as much as if you're on your own against a clean backdrop - this is sort of like camo clothing where you are trying to obscure your silhouette. Pause a few seconds before showing the camera. If you walk up near someone and stop, they'll probably glance at you to see who you are, what you want, etc. If all they see is someone doing nothing (ie, not a threat or opportunity) they'll go back to what they're doing. Shoot people who are distracted and doing things. Most people who are distracted are just on their phones, but contrary to internet hype people do still do other things, and unless you're working on your doco series "People on their phones - Episode 27" its good to seek out these moments. Shoot through people / things. Be careful how you move and approach shots. I try and be very focused on things that are just becoming visible. As soon as you can see them, they can see you, so it's best to not get closer than you need to. The further you are away the more likely there is to be layers to shoot through too, so that's a bonus. People also have a sixth sense that someone is looking at them, even if you're looking "at them" on your camera screen, so although you can approach someone from the side or even from behind and they'll just turn and look right at you. I'm not sure how to navigate this, but I'm sure there's some way to influence it that I haven't worked out yet. This lady was facing directly away from me when I started filming and then turned suddenly a few seconds into the shot: The guy nearest me suddenly turned around to look at me, despite none of his friends noticing me beforehand: I know people do look around sometimes, but the timing is uncanny, so it's definitely a thing. The old trick of finding the backdrop and waiting for someone to come into shot is a good one too, which is what this shot was. It has the benefit that you're not coming into their environment, they're moving through yours. Any situation where you're shooting through layers has the potential for someone to come into shot too. I was shooting compositions using the bikes mirrors and then a lady came and parked her bike right in front of me. I'm pretty sure she knew I was there, but as I was already standing there when she arrived I wouldn't have triggered that 'a new person just arrived' reaction, and also as she arrived at the situation from somewhere else she was probably quite distracted as the whole situation was new and she was trying to park her bike too, so it's possible she was completely oblivious to my presence. Anyway, that's some further thoughts. There's a lot online about how to stealthily take street photos (e.g. Garry Winogrand pretending to fumble with his camera, etc), but much less about street videography where you have to essentially remain motionless for many seconds while rolling, plus you can't 'drive by' people and freeze them with a short shutter speed either. For one reason or other most of the street photography tricks don't really work. I'd imagine that @BTM_Pix would be deep down this rabbit hole..

The zebras work in 8bit on the display, any value above a certain brightness i.e. 250-255 get the zebra treatment. When the picture profile is changed to Z-LOG for the wider dynamic range, and the values aren't clipping, the highlights won't get zebras. Without hacking Nikon's firmware, it's not possible to add them for Z-LOG.

A steam train visited Sydney for Easter so it was fun to capture some video of it.The day was overcast so didn't use any ND filters.The lens is an clunky old AF-S 24-85 non VR that needs persuasion to get past a notch at 50mm

Happy easter everyone, good spring weather to get the camera bag out

I've been told it's a decent camera for indy films.

Here you have straight from Mr. Vogel, Mike Vogel, Milady: Love this one BTW... Addressed to all naysayers : X

Been using the GH6 with the cheap 7artisans 24mm 1.4. I really like the lens, are there any other 7artisans hidden gems?

These days, my travel setup looks a bit different, but with a similar goal of traveling light. I just bring the GFX 100 II and for lenses, the EF 35/1.4L II and the Fujinon 110/2. I used to bring the Fujinon 32-64/4 instead, but then I needed to bring something for lower light/night shooting. Plus a 2x zoom makes less sense when I can just crop anyway. I was looking at the GFX 100RF, but it's really not all that small and when I realized I was willing to accept a fixed 35 with that, I decided to just do the same thing, but, y'know, fast. For video, the GFX also makes it more like I have 4 lenses instead of 2. I can record in 4K or 5.8K at full sensor width - so effectively a 28mm or 80mm lens in FF terms - but if I switch to 8K, the crop is close to FF so I also have a 35 and 110mm lenses - with plenty of resolution to crop in if I want to. The fact that it's 8K is less interesting than it being a bit cropped. 😅 I don't really need to get all that wide so the 35 is usually enough, even if I crop in a little when IBIS darkens the corners a little. For photos, there's enough room to crop in that I can get reasonable results going anywhere from around 27-28mm on full frame to... something like 200-300mm after cropping. For ND filters, I just bring a set of Kase clip-in filters - ND8, ND64, and ND1000. The entire set fits in a tiny little box and weighs almost nothing. For a tripod, I... don't. The IBIS in the GFX is decent enough that I can get sharp photos handheld as long there's at least some light (if it's too dim for around 1/15second at f/1.4 at ISO 6400, that's rough - but it's just not a scenario I'm optimizing for these days). Limitations? Longer exposures for waterfalls are hit and miss. I usually just turn on the 2s timer at about a 1 second exposure and shoot it like 5 times and if I don't get something that's sharp with smooth water, I decide that wasn't meant to be. I have a lot of pictures of waterfalls already (I really like waterfalls). The camera and lenses are obtrusive - the GFX 100 II is smaller than my GFX 100 was and that's nice, but it's still not small. Rolling shutter in some modes is enough to be noticeable even with relatively small movement. The fact that it's obtrusive can be a really big problem - in a lot of cities, it's not a camera to casually hang around the neck and stroll around. I'm in Sao Paulo right now - there are only a few parts of the city where I'd even bring it out. BUT the good news is that my phone (iPhone 16 Pro) works absolutely fine in all of the places where I wouldn't take out my big obtrusive camera. The iPhone is good enough that I take out the big camera less and less, even when it would be totally safe to take it out.

NRaw is half the data rates of R3D NE and NRaw files can be saved after trimming, but R3D NE files save without trims, which makes R3D NE 20x more data heavy in worst case scenario. Started to convert R3D NE files to H.265 with RedLog10 and 500Mbps as a temporary solution. With NRaw there is no need for that. Z6iii has already good H.265, and IMHO is a better camera with more buttons and good EVF. ZR is just more fun to shoot, but getting WB, exposure and focus right takes a bit more time. The R3D NE footage does look more pleasing to the eye than NRaw when compared side by side. But without comparison NRaw looks good too. R3D NE is better in the shadows, but NRaw does not clip so easily in the highlights, so pick your poison based on the shooting scenario you are in. Neither is perfect at the moment, but both can give good results.

The dynamic range is only crap in the world of luxury peepers. For whom pixel peeping got a bit out of control and if they loose 0.02 stops of dynamic range due to a fast sensor readout they will huff and puff and buy something different. Nuts!