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gt3rs

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  1. I was in Lapland 2 weeks ago and I'm now in Alaska. If you don't have them yet buy a great pair of glows with inner glows so you can take out the first layer without exposing your bare skin to the helmets. Filming yourself -> Insta360 One X3 Filming others -> Gopro Hero 12 or Insta360 Ace Pro
  2. I do tons of snowboard and ski videos but the first key question do you want to film yourself (helmet, selfistick, etc) or film others (follow cam) ? Btw all insta360 cameras have a single button mode, one long press it turns on and record, one long press again stop recording and shuts down. If I recall correctly gopros have it too.
  3. It is so flawed, he could just buy one used R5 + adapter no need to change everything, keep the DSLR as backup and gain a much much more reliable AF, no lens focus tuning, better still quality, silent shutter with EVF and much better video quality. It even uses the same battery. A used R5 here is a round 2800 USD, you keep it for 3 years, resell it for 500 USD it makes a whooping 65 USD a month, if you cannot afford this change job. Again YT BS
  4. YT nonsense, the Uber old Prius example is basically saying you are at the bottom of the food chain stay there 😉
  5. Canon in camera NDs for example are not VNDs but are normal NDs so you don't have these issues. On the opposite Canon EF-RF ND adapter is an VND filter, and you have all these issues. The more range the VND have the more problem at the extreme they bring. In my experience, and I have a few of them, the price does not really make a huge difference. If you want the maximum quality normal NDs is the way to go but of course less practical but changing the ISO impact less the image quality that VND.....
  6. Also, most flashes at full speed are rather slow so funny enough buying a A9 III for overpowering the sun with its base iso 250 would not help that much. You lower flash output to sync faster you gain not that much. Maybe more flashes will optimize for shorter duration something that there was no need until GS.
  7. After 11 pages of answers and great suggestions @Jedi Master come up with wait, I forgot to tell you that 70% of my needs are still.... incredible.... hope you had a lot of fun because I'm not amused at all.... so unrespectful of other people time.
  8. Above 100mm IBIS become less efficient but if the lens has IS you can handheld, I regularly handheld 400mm
  9. Other than 120fps that is 4k only, everything else I shoot in RAW so is 8k (R5c has cropped RAW too but I don't use it as I prefer to crop myself). I'm a fan of RAW as it can be graded more heavily without breaking apart, good colorists (not like me 😉 ) can do great with 10bit log material, me less so. I also like that I don't need to set the WB upfront especially when I have zero time for setup or mistakes. I take a lot of stills out both horizontal and vertical, so the resolution helps. Also with 8k I can frame it a bit more loose and have some safety or is some case adding camera movements when the camera is fix like a fake panning, I add a bit of fake camera shake in Resolve to have it more natural. I normally deliver in 4k. I do archive in 8k.
  10. Official NDs filters https://store.insta360.com/product/ace-pro-nd-filter-set?c=2649&from=accessory For example motorsports (Cars, Buggy, etc) applications is where you want to disable digital stabilization and add ND filter. Nothing worse than stabilization correcting the car movements and lack of motion blur. Inferior DR did you see a scientific test that measure the stops, if yes can you please post it as I'm curious. You seem to be very knowledgeable but your examples that you post are not what I would call "action" so not sure that claiming that this is not an action cam feels right. In between the avalanche of useless YT review there are some pieces that show the potential of the camera. From what I could see so far: Gopro 12 + 10 bit log + MAX LENS MOD (this for POV makes a big difference) + integrated mounting + a bit lighter + replaceable lens + 2.7k 240 + a bit better stabilization Insta360 Ace Pro + overall, it seems a bit better image quality. + low light + 2x "lossless crop" + 8k 24 (wish was at least 25) + better software + stats from Apple Watch + HDR mode seems more usable. In daylight it seems to me that the RS 1inch is still the best one and is now quite old.
  11. I posted many times that since I have 45 mpix/8k cameras no more vertical shooting. As I can deliver both vertical and horizontal version of the same pic/video to customer. Coming from 1D III, IV, 1Dx, II, III I really don't miss the grip I prefer to save weight for handholding and gimbal and change more batteries.
  12. I cover a lot of ice hockey from U20 to pro league. The 100-300 2.8 is imo THE hockey lens if you don’t shoot through the holes. Here we don’t have holes in the plexiglass, we shoot through glass and/or plexi or if lucky from in-between the benches. The range is perfect to cover the full field with a 45mpix camera. I started shooting ice hockey with 1Dx + 70-200 2.8, then added another 1Dx + 200-400 F4 and now 1 body only R5 + 100-300 2.8. I always handhold as in hockey there are so many interruptions that I have no problem handholding for the whole match. Interesting fact is that a R5 + 100-300 is only 400 grams heavier than 1Dx III + 70-200 III. Here a couple of Saturday game: Some more examples of the 100-300
  13. What kind of sports do you cover? Imo you should choose by lenses not bodies as 3 years ago Nikon had nothing, now they have two of the best cameras but in 6 months from now? My standard kit R5 R5c RF 100-300 2.8 RF 28-70 2 RF 16 2.8 1.4 tc I have also RF 70-200 2.8 but I use it basically only on Gimbal now as the 100-300 covers a better range. I'm thinking of changing 70-200 for the 24-105 but I'm not sure I like the 100-200 range on gimbal. I also have the RF 100-500 that I use for Freeride and MTB where I'm skiing or on a bike so the 100-300 is just too heavy. I also have the 2x TC but I use it only for daylight horses' competition on big fields and for airplanes/wildlife.
  14. So you have EF lenses… then why you simply just buy a used R5 + adapter and try out, worse case you can resell the R5 for a small loss. EF lenses works better on R body than on DSLR.
  15. You can't really go wrong with both systems. Today Z8 is probably the best bang for the bucks. I shoot with R5 and R5c since the release I'm very happy, you can search my posts here tons of discussion. R5 overheating is a thing of the past, this summer I was shooting under the sun 8k 25 RAW with on top an iphone 13 pro max in 4k... and the iphone shut down due to overheating and the R5 kept going... Having said this I think we will se a new R5 early next year as is now more than 3.5 years old.... so not the best moment to buy it. I think R1 will also show up in first half but who knows. R3 is an amazing camera but I don't want to go back to 24mpix and non 8k video. My preferred one is the R5c but once you decide Nikon vs Canon we can go deeper in the differences. Canon has some unique zooms that you may find interesting for your job: RF 24-105 2.8 (optional power zoom) with one lens you maybe able to cover most of your need. RF 28-70 2.0, I love this lens, no more primes to carry around, switching lens, etc. Sold all my primes other than a el cheapo 16 2.8. RF 70-200 2.8, some love it some not due that is an extending design, but is super small and light weight, I use mine on gimbal quite a bit. RF 100-300 2.8 cost a fortune but is great for sports. With two super expensive lenses and a 1 TC you can cover almost everything 24-105 2.8 100-300 2.8 If you even plan to acquire or rent cinema cameras, canon RF mount lenses may be a better choice than Z lenses as both Canon and RED have, and will have cinema camera with this mount.
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