Jump to content

Panasonic GH4 user films, tests, reviews and opinions


Andrew Reid
 Share

Recommended Posts

What are peoples opinion on GH3 vs GH4. I feel GH4 possibly looks more like video when compared to GH3. I feel the extra sharpness of the GH4 is really something that imo doesn't look right. I would have much preferred they would have simply worked on improved iso and dynamic range.

 

Can anyway please help me with some nice neutral settings? Everything I've tried on the GH4 looks too sharp or just lifeless + too much yellow in skin tones and then too much magenta. I'm finding it almost impossible to get the actual color I want out of the GH4

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are peoples opinion on GH3 vs GH4. I feel GH4 possibly looks more like video when compared to GH3. I feel the extra sharpness of the GH4 is really something that imo doesn't look right. I would have much preferred they would have simply worked on improved iso and dynamic range.

 

Can anyway please help me with some nice neutral settings? Everything I've tried on the GH4 looks too sharp or just lifeless + too much yellow in skin tones and then too much magenta. I'm finding it almost impossible to get the actual color I want out of the GH4

Cine V -5,-5,-1,-5,+1. Master Pedestal +15. That +1 will keep people from looking like pumpkins ;) . The -1 on noise reduction will take a little edge off the sharpness. I know the master pedestal has been the source for the noise in Cine D, but someone on one of the many forums I surf mentioned settings close to these and they worked great. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

"Filmlook" is up to you, not camera :) I've already made 10min film 100% shooted on GH4 and 12-35mm and quickly forgot about the Canon DSLR's :) GH4 is awesome. check a sample of this: 

 

Nice. Let's see your next film without a camera in that case :)

 

Hand gestures and a projector light!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's new firmware guys (and girls): http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/dsc/download/fts/dl/gh4.html (as well for the FZ1000 ). ;)

 

Cine V -5,-5,-1,-5,+1. Master Pedestal +15. That +1 will keep people from looking like pumpkins ;) . The -1 on noise reduction will take a little edge off the sharpness. I know the master pedestal has been the source for the noise in Cine D, but someone on one of the many forums I surf mentioned settings close to these and they worked great. 

This approach to find the cleanest settings was pretty nice:

 

However... the Master Pedestal (3:18)... Matt Frazer talks about it here as well as other settings you need to think about, very informative.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't got the GH4 but from what I've seen, it looks like if you avoid the Cine profiles and shadow lifting, you can avoid strange skin tones that look too orange or flat. You may also have to desaturate those colours a bit in post.

 

I think a lot of it depends on situation really. I mean in this video, the 5d's skins are more orange and the blackmagic's look a bit yellow/dead, whilst the gh4 is actually producing some quite nice tones. It really does all depend on situation and picture style.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After trying out various settings with the GH4, my impression is that the best way to shoot with it is as with my G6.

One of my last shoots with my G6 was for an Ikea commercial. The other cameras on that shoot were Sony F5's and F55's. In the final edit, there's no way to tell which shots were my G6 and which were the Sony's. Same thing with another shoot with Sony's ànd a Red. 

On the G6, I shot with the NATURAL profile with contrast, sharpness, noise reduction all the way down.  Saturation and hue are dialled in depending on what the scene needs.  I don't touch Master Pedestal at all, nor do I mess with the shadows and highlights. 

This gives me a very flat image with proper skintones that grades very well and carries none of the noise that seems to plague the GH4 when shooting with Cinelike D or V.
I also suggest to keep the ISO at 400 (even though 800 is supposed to be the native ISO) and use ND filters when needed.  Or adjust the shutterspeed if you're after that look or have no ND.

I also use a Speedbooster clone with fast Canon FD lenses, which gives a decent low light performance with the GH4.

Finally, I record most of my serious work on an Atomos Ninja, so the 10-bit definitely helps, as does shooting in 4K and having the camera downconvert to 2K through HDMI.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Pascal I would not rule out the curve control just yet. I find it can make a nice difference to set it to -5 highlights. I haven't done any before/after tests with it on skin but I would image it wouldn't make a difference because it only works on the brightest parts of the image.

 

 

http://imgur.com/ff542pW,aJugtLQ#0

(Click between "First Image" and "second image" at the top for before/after)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After trying out various settings with the GH4, my impression is that the best way to shoot with it is as with my G6.

 

I completely agree!
I also come from G6 and I've found that for most of my shots the "Natural" profile with all the sharpness and contrast down give me the more... natural results, while Cinelike D and V probably just have to be used as they are, without touching too much the setting, otherwise some artifacts are near... 

But the GH4 codec is so good that I had great results even with the Cinelike D profile with all contrast down and Master Pedestal +7....

I'm simply LOVE with GH4 and G6 :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there an alternative to the expensive 12-25mm f2.8 lens?? Not manual lenses, something with autofocus. I never had a GHx camera, the autofocus is more about focus points like Canon or face-detection like Sony?? Thanks!

Unfortunately the 12-35mm is the best lens I think.  As for AF, you can do single point, face tracking, mulit-point, and with single point you can use the touch screen to focus even when you're shooting.  It's very good.  You can use a cheap lens like the 14-42 if you must, but I recommend locking it on a tripod.  Only new lenses with Power OIS have good optical stabilization.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone figure out how to use the EF-M43 Speed Booster with the GH4?

 

Sure, optically it just works, and I can control aperture electronically, but the Green and Advanced modes are less than clear from the instructions on Metabones' web site, which are detailed for the Sony cameras (and never says which method activates which mode).

 

What does the little dial on the side of the adapter do? There's no documentation at all that came with the Speed Booster.

 

Thanks in advance,

- Rob.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@HappyCatFilms I didn't think there was any mode switch.  The port on the side is for micro USB power, and the rocker switch is a manual control of the aperture iris with the micro USB connected.   Also there's no AF control of EF lenses, unlike the Sony version of the speedbooster.  I don't think any of the speedboosters come with a manual unfortunately.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@nahua Thanks. I know about the no AF control. Sucks, but it is what it is! The optical benefits are the main draw.

 

Sure be nice if MB got better at documentation.

 

I've been trying to download the latest firmware, but their site doesn't cooperate. They even said they fixed it, to no avail.

 

Not your issue - just venting! Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi I am new on here and would like to ask some advice on camera settings for flying my GH3 and GH4. Obviousley I cannot adjust the settings once the camera is airborne. We have been caught out a coulpe of time shooting in manual when there has been a sudden light change. Is auto really a no no. Below is an image of the day in question when we had to chase the Steam train along the viaduct.. you ever tried telling a steam train to reset? ;-)

 

 

post-35564-0-37699500-1413622107_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes auto really is a no no - as the camera will decide to alter the settings when you dont want it to .

Fully manual for making films is the way to go.

set the iso manually -

set the apperture

set the shutter speed

also set the white balance manually too no auto - ever!!

 

now if you have a gh4 you can use the wifi to manually alter settings when the camera is airbourne -

test it first !! on the ground!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes auto really is a no no - as the camera will decide to alter the settings when you dont want it to .

Fully manual for making films is the way to go.

set the iso manually -

set the apperture

set the shutter speed

also set the white balance manually too no auto - ever!!

 

now if you have a gh4 you can use the wifi to manually alter settings when the camera is airbourne -

test it first !! on the ground!

Hi Andy.

Thanks for the rely. Slight problem is the speed at which we can adapt the settings. WiFi is an option but the WiFi on the GH3/4 operates at 2.4ghz same as the machine control frequency. It should not be an issue because of spread spectrum technology but when I m at 400m out getting it back in range of the iPad takes time and I may have missed the shot.

 

Still can't see my post as I aint had one approved yet. How long does that process normally take?

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The GH2's learning curve was almost flat, especially with the high bitrate hacks. I learned to get great results in a matter of days.

The GH4 is a different beast altogether. I've had it for over 4 months and I'm in a constant process of learning how to shoot great video, learning new tricks everyday.

During the past week, I've been experimenting with a Rectimascop 48/2x anamorphic lens. I'm glad I've waited all these months before buying it, getting to know the camera and it's behaviour and of course the great new 4K photo mode.

Anamorphic on the GH4 is what I've wished for since being seduced by the DSLR revolution, over 4 years ago.

There's still so much to learn, but here are a couple of my first tests.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By Richard Peretti
      Hi guys,
      Found this packed away in the loft. Haven't used it in years. Open to offers, UK only please.
      Cheers







    • By MurtlandPhoto
      The camera is in excellent condition without any marks. It comes in its original box with all original accessories including battery, charger, sync cable, strap, manual, etc. The 8Sinn cage is wonderful- it fits the camera like a glove and gives it plenty of mounting points for accessories. Price includes insured shipping to anywhere in continental U.S. via USPS Priority Mail. 

      Payment using Paypal or Cash App.
      Located in Ithaca, NY.
       



    • By zoombeam
      The original SLR 12mm for micro four thirds.  Built in hood.  Mint.  Box is intact.  Comes with original caps and hood.  $300.00+ shipping.
    • By Ingerson
      Well, it’s been 8 months since I completed this and almost a year since I promised @mercer to post it once completed

      I don’t really know what to say about this, it’s my first short and I wanted to try this medium after trying music, photography, drawing/painting and all sorts of writing in order to figure out myself and my depression.

      It took me months to complete due to my mental state and lack of energy and I intended to post this sooner, but life can be a little too much sometimes. Or very often in my case.

      Even though it was the hardest creative thing I’ve done in my life, (despite having a background or experience in most of the separate artforms that make up a film) I was really lost in the entire process and I developed love/hate relationship to it. I wanted to quit all the time when I wrote it, when prepping, when shooting and during the long, motivational drainage that is editing.

      But I guess that’s also where the love was born. No matter all the mistakes I made, I could somehow save it and make a decent first short thanks to the editing by re-arranging the pieces I had. Throw away most of it, stretching what was left of it, slowing or speeding up some of it, playing some of it in reverse. Dubbing in new sound (needed, cause most of it was unusable. Note to self: Don’t forget sound!

      I’ve tried to make another short since, but haven’t completed the shoot. I don’t know if I’ll finish that one, it’s just a silly comedy I made with my then girlfriend, now fiancée on my phone (This one was shot on the DVX200 before anyone asks, cameras are important on this forum apperantly, hehe) because she wanted me to make something less depressing, but I guess I’m just a gloomy guy, all my new ideas are based on my different malfunctions.

      Hopefully I’ll work up enough energy to make another, I really want to.

      Anyway, enough talking. I hope you’ll give this a go and give me some pointers, but go easy on me, okay?

      Now, pick you poison:
       
      https://vimeo.com/272702923
       
      https://youtu.be/rsXdjH4I5YA

       

    • By Thecryptolounge
      Rarely used this bad boy, mainly bought it for my wedding a couple years back. Other than that it’s in great condition. Will sell it with the battery and the 32GB SD.
      Askig: $700






×
×
  • Create New...