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QuickHitRecord

My Iscomorphot in action

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I can't decide whether I love this lens or hate it. It is very easy to use with rack-focusing and no need for diopters (focuses as close as 1' or so) but there is often ghosting if I shoot faster than f/4 or sometimes f/5.6. But at those apertures, it acts like a shallow DOF amplifier. Still, I do lose the light.

Here it is coupled with my Helios 44:

[media]http://vimeo.com/51600001[/media]

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I don't see much reason to hate it :)
Which Iscomorphit is it? 8/1,5x or 8/2x?

I'm waiting for my 8/2x to arrive. My first reasonably small anamorphic.. Curious how it will work out.

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[quote name='Julian' timestamp='1350492944' post='19861']
I don't see much reason to hate it :)
Which Iscomorphit is it? 8/1,5x or 8/2x?

I'm waiting for my 8/2x to arrive. My first reasonably small anamorphic.. Curious how it will work out.
[/quote]

It's the 8/1.5x, like this:
[img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/gallery/album_14/gallery_18451_14_27471.jpg[/img]

Isco couldn't let things be too simple, so their Iscomorphot 8/2x and 16/2x are a completely different series that looks like this:

[img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7220/7307238896_31593601c5_z.jpg[/img]

I believe that both of those are dual focusing. I have seen some wonderful footage from the 8/2x.

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@Julian
The Iscomorphot 8/2x is a fixed focus (@4m-ish) monoblock lens, so you'll need a diopter or 2 & if you get a good one it is very very sharp (even wide open).
My Iscomorphot copy is sharper than my Iscorama & that is sharp. So if you don't like the x2, you can crop v.easily.

I shot this wide-open @ f2 on my helios
https://vimeo.com/41213761

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Yeah I heard so! I already saw your video when looking into it. Can't wait to try it out :)
I have a very small 50mm f/2 L39 Jupiter lens and also a Helios 44.

How do you fix it to your taking lens? I'm looking into a clamp solution.

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I got a clamp from Redstan aka Tony Wilson, on this forum (real name Alan). Its a perfect fit & he also does a front clamp to attach filters etc. His clamps really are the best option - they might be more expensive, but when you have them in your hand you know where your money went & won't regret your purchase (unlike the other cheap tin option, which will have you screaming for your money back!). He also does deals on multiple purchases - haggle.

Depending on what camera you're using, you might get some vignetting with the 50mm (when stopped down), but 55mm & above are safe. I would highly recommend the Jupiter 9 (85mm f2) or Meyer-Optik Orestor 100mm f2.8 (15 blade version if you can) - if you are thinking of a longer focal length.

As far as close up lenses are concerned you can pretty much stick anything on the front, as the glass inside the iscomorphot is top quality. I've used a +0.4 (gets you to about 1.5m) & a cheap £10 Sigma (gold box & doesn't say the strength) from ebay (gets you to 50cm) - no CA with either.

Oh & it does flare!
Enjoy

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footage is nice.
the design of the lens is classic the back cylindrical convex optic is about 5mm to small.
so you get smearing,ghosting and a little double imaging .
if it had of been a little bigger it would be a beast
simply relationship between focal length of taking lens and importantly massive size difference between 2 optics coupled with focal length of iscomorphot
i suppose it is a question of finding the perfect taking lens.
i have had some and they where in pretty poor shape it is quite a complex lens amazing for it's time really.
it was designed for bolex reg 8 so amazing it does that well.
i gave up on them because i could not find a perfect one and i did not want another dumb 6 month repair job.

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[quote name='tony wilson' timestamp='1350529179' post='19883']
footage is nice.
the design of the lens is classic the back cylindrical convex optic is about 5mm to small.
so you get smearing,ghosting and a little double imaging .
if it had of been a little bigger it would be a beast
simply relationship between focal length of taking lens and importantly massive size difference between 2 optics coupled with focal length of iscomorphot
i suppose it is a question of finding the perfect taking lens.
i have had some and they where in pretty poor shape it is quite a complex lens amazing for it's time really.
it was designed for bolex reg 8 so amazing it does that well.
i gave up on them because i could not find a perfect one and i did not want another dumb 6 month repair job.
[/quote]

You are right about finding the right taking lens. So far, I like it best with my Nikkor 85mm Non-Ai f/1.8. Second place goes to the Helios 44 (with which I shot the video above). And I really do not like this lens with my Nikkor 50mm AI-S f/1.8. The edges are soft and there seems to be even more ghosting.

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Great! I enjoyed that very much. I think the Iscomorphot was a very good investment. I am thinking of you first "Statues" clip with
the "Baby Hypergonar-Konica" combination and I think this looks better: much sharper especially in the edges.
By the way I nearly can't get a sharp image out of the same combo at all... even at f16 it is not convincing.

Thank you for sharing your work and experiences and I am looking forward for more! :)

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Just received my Iscomorphot 8/2x. What a difference with my Isco Optic Ultra Star.. wow!

[URL=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/image/120-p1020890/][IMG]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/gallery/album_17/gallery_20742_17_32510.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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[quote name='Julian' timestamp='1350830950' post='20083']
Now I just need a mount.. Since the lens doesn't have any moving parts I might try some kinda DIY construction first.
[/quote]

The diagram that I made with my 1.5x Iscomorphot posted above might work for you.

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I think [url=http://www.ebay.nl/itm/55mm-Conversion-Lens-Adapter-Tube-for-Olympus-CLA-10-/271029179531?pt=UK_Photography_Adapter_Rings&hash=item3f1a99148b]this tube[/url] would work. Just need something to fill the tube to get the anamorphic inside tight, but still adjustable to get the alignment right.

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So I got this Iscomorphot 8/2x a while ago, didn't do much with it yet, I tried it with my minolta 58mm f/1.4 (which works fine with the Kowa B&H) and I could'nt get anything sharp out of it. Totally crap image.

 

Today I tried with several other lenses, turns out it works fine with a simple Minolta MC 50mm f/1.7.

 

Shot a boring clip in the park. Almost everything at f/16 since I don't have an ND on it. Shot in 720p50 and slowed down, wanted to test if I could use it handheld.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjaGbByYeR8

 

So, I did find a way to mount it.

With my Redstan clamp that i got for the Kowa B&H 2x! Turns out with some creativity I can mount several anamorphics with it.

I just use old UV filters (remove the glass) to extend the clamp.

 

[URL=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/image/276-versatile-redstan-clamp/]gallery_20742_17_143060.jpg[/URL]

 

Here you see the Kowa B&H, Proskar 2x, and the Iscomorphot. Note that the back elements sticks out a lot, I have to add more filters in between. But it is actually nice to be able to let it stick out a bit, so I can bring it as close as the glass as possible!

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Note that the back elements sticks out a lot, I have to add more filters in between. But it is actually nice to be able to let it stick out a bit, so I can bring it as close as the glass as possible!

 

I've pushed Alan's clamp as far forward on the lens as it can go like you have (mine looks like it has a smaller diameter than yours), and then I've built onto the back of the clamp with a set of extension tubes like these: http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Extension-Extreme-Close-up-Cameras/dp/B003Y5T464/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366486075&sr=8-1&keywords=52mm+extension+tube

 

With this system, I can get the anamorphic as close to the taking lens as I need to by swapping out extension tubes. Also, realigning the lens is a breeze. I simply un-tighten one of the clamp screws, twist the lens, and re-tighten it. The clamp hugs the anamorphic so it never goes out of alignment.

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