Mark Romero 2

This

They’ve put themselves in a box. I doubt it having better specs than S1 if it’s suppose to be entry level. FF 4K60p is a stretch unless they also add it via firmware to S1. Affordable L mount Lenses are still limited.
They just released a “vlogging” camera that nobody really likes or wants.
I have no clue why they are releasing a new model. Unless it’s a GX style FF camera, which would be appealing to some. 

I don't know how much a used Panasonic S1 goes for in your neck of the woods, but it would be ideal for that kind of a situation. (I am assuming you wouldn't need AF-C in those situations but I could be wrong.)

I would get a zoom to compliment your primes and have a zoom option. 

If you can deal with the variable aperture the Sony E 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 is actually a better lens. 

So in terms of hybrid cameras - and including the BMPCC4K even though it isn't a hybrid camera - is the a7 III still tops when it comes to dynamic range?
Purely dynamic range. Not colors, not ergonomics, not soul, not flame-proof-ness. Just DR.
I've read Sony a7 III with slog 2 has close to 14 stops of DR.
Is the BMPCC4K able to compete / beat it when shooting in RAW? (New BMRAW firmware was just released, BTW).
Will Z6 beat it once it gets ability to shoot in RAW via hdmi out? (I am reluctant to spend $1,000 getting a recorder, battery and SSD card for it).
What's the DR of the Panasonic S1 cameras like? Another site said that it had 12.2 stops when shooting HLG at ISO 400. I think V Log is a paid firmware update coming down the road, right? (Hopefully it won't be dependent upon the US Postal Service for delivery).
ALSO: I thought someone on this forum posted a few months back that the 8-bit codec of the a7 III actually helped increase dynamic range when compared to 10-bit codecs. Was I dreaming? Was I on drugs? Was my mind being controlled by @mercer cat???
(P.S. I know that Sony cameras - much like my wardrobe choices - have many serious flaws. No need to comment on either of those things here.)

If it were, the AF would be contrast-detect only; the Z5's AF looks to be phase-detect.

Hi there, @SRV1981
Yes, you are in the right forum.
You should be able to create videos similar to the ones that you linked to using FCP, Keynote, and your Sony a7 III and the Tamron 28-75 lens. I don't think you need a wider lens unless the room you are going to film in is very small. Ideally, you would move the camera further away from you and zoom in instead. If you are close and zoom out to wide angle, then you can often see wider than the background. Also you would want to be far enough away from the backdrop that your shadow doesn't fall on the backdrop.
Unfortunately, while the Shure SM7B mic has pretty good audio quality, it is a dynamic mic and is designed to be used VERY CLOSE to the audio source. So for a person, you would place the mic right in front of their mouth. Meaning, while you are on screen talking, the mic would need to be right in front of your face.
If you want to emulate the "look" of the three videos you linked to, you would want to use a boom mic with a cardioid pattern (or a shotgun mic on a boom). These mics are designed to be placed about 18-inches away from the speakers mouth. 
You will need a boom arm and stand to mount the mic.
Alternatively, you could use a lapel mic. The lapel mic would be more convenient (especially if you get a wireless lapel mic), but it can be prone to rustling noise if you move and the fabric of your clothing rustles against it. Also you might want to hide the lapel mic.
And in general, mics that are boomed overhead have a different sound than lapel mics. I don't know if it is a huge difference in sound or not.
The Audient ID14 input looks like it is good for recording sound in to your computer. But is this what you want? To make things as easy as possible, you would want to record the audio in to your camera. If you record the audio separately in to the computer, then later on you will need to sync up the (separately recorded) audio to the video. It's not rocket surgery, but it is more convenient if the audio is recorded directly to your video file.
As for lighting, you are probably going to want a key light in a softbox (possibly with a grid), then a fill light, then one or possibly two lights for lighting the green screen evenly. Godox makes several affordable LED lights, and many people use the SL60 if you are going to be filming one person from the waist up. They aren't super powerful, and the fans can be a bit noisy (so you would want a good directional mic to minimize noise from the fans).  
A step up would be the aputure lights, which are a bit quieter and the color of the light might be slightly better. They are significantly more expensive than the Godox lights, but as they say, you often get what you pay for.
My understanding is that a good green screen requires EVEN lighting and you need to remove wrinkles as best as you can. And don't wear green clothing. And don't have green eyes.
I would look up tutorials on "Lighting a one person interview" because that is mainly what you will be doing. Same thing for looking up tutorials on audio for a one-person interview.
Hope this helps.

Hi there, @SRV1981
Yes, you are in the right forum.
You should be able to create videos similar to the ones that you linked to using FCP, Keynote, and your Sony a7 III and the Tamron 28-75 lens. I don't think you need a wider lens unless the room you are going to film in is very small. Ideally, you would move the camera further away from you and zoom in instead. If you are close and zoom out to wide angle, then you can often see wider than the background. Also you would want to be far enough away from the backdrop that your shadow doesn't fall on the backdrop.
Unfortunately, while the Shure SM7B mic has pretty good audio quality, it is a dynamic mic and is designed to be used VERY CLOSE to the audio source. So for a person, you would place the mic right in front of their mouth. Meaning, while you are on screen talking, the mic would need to be right in front of your face.
If you want to emulate the "look" of the three videos you linked to, you would want to use a boom mic with a cardioid pattern (or a shotgun mic on a boom). These mics are designed to be placed about 18-inches away from the speakers mouth. 
You will need a boom arm and stand to mount the mic.
Alternatively, you could use a lapel mic. The lapel mic would be more convenient (especially if you get a wireless lapel mic), but it can be prone to rustling noise if you move and the fabric of your clothing rustles against it. Also you might want to hide the lapel mic.
And in general, mics that are boomed overhead have a different sound than lapel mics. I don't know if it is a huge difference in sound or not.
The Audient ID14 input looks like it is good for recording sound in to your computer. But is this what you want? To make things as easy as possible, you would want to record the audio in to your camera. If you record the audio separately in to the computer, then later on you will need to sync up the (separately recorded) audio to the video. It's not rocket surgery, but it is more convenient if the audio is recorded directly to your video file.
As for lighting, you are probably going to want a key light in a softbox (possibly with a grid), then a fill light, then one or possibly two lights for lighting the green screen evenly. Godox makes several affordable LED lights, and many people use the SL60 if you are going to be filming one person from the waist up. They aren't super powerful, and the fans can be a bit noisy (so you would want a good directional mic to minimize noise from the fans).  
A step up would be the aputure lights, which are a bit quieter and the color of the light might be slightly better. They are significantly more expensive than the Godox lights, but as they say, you often get what you pay for.
My understanding is that a good green screen requires EVEN lighting and you need to remove wrinkles as best as you can. And don't wear green clothing. And don't have green eyes.
I would look up tutorials on "Lighting a one person interview" because that is mainly what you will be doing. Same thing for looking up tutorials on audio for a one-person interview.
Hope this helps.

Hi there, @SRV1981
Yes, you are in the right forum.
You should be able to create videos similar to the ones that you linked to using FCP, Keynote, and your Sony a7 III and the Tamron 28-75 lens. I don't think you need a wider lens unless the room you are going to film in is very small. Ideally, you would move the camera further away from you and zoom in instead. If you are close and zoom out to wide angle, then you can often see wider than the background. Also you would want to be far enough away from the backdrop that your shadow doesn't fall on the backdrop.
Unfortunately, while the Shure SM7B mic has pretty good audio quality, it is a dynamic mic and is designed to be used VERY CLOSE to the audio source. So for a person, you would place the mic right in front of their mouth. Meaning, while you are on screen talking, the mic would need to be right in front of your face.
If you want to emulate the "look" of the three videos you linked to, you would want to use a boom mic with a cardioid pattern (or a shotgun mic on a boom). These mics are designed to be placed about 18-inches away from the speakers mouth. 
You will need a boom arm and stand to mount the mic.
Alternatively, you could use a lapel mic. The lapel mic would be more convenient (especially if you get a wireless lapel mic), but it can be prone to rustling noise if you move and the fabric of your clothing rustles against it. Also you might want to hide the lapel mic.
And in general, mics that are boomed overhead have a different sound than lapel mics. I don't know if it is a huge difference in sound or not.
The Audient ID14 input looks like it is good for recording sound in to your computer. But is this what you want? To make things as easy as possible, you would want to record the audio in to your camera. If you record the audio separately in to the computer, then later on you will need to sync up the (separately recorded) audio to the video. It's not rocket surgery, but it is more convenient if the audio is recorded directly to your video file.
As for lighting, you are probably going to want a key light in a softbox (possibly with a grid), then a fill light, then one or possibly two lights for lighting the green screen evenly. Godox makes several affordable LED lights, and many people use the SL60 if you are going to be filming one person from the waist up. They aren't super powerful, and the fans can be a bit noisy (so you would want a good directional mic to minimize noise from the fans).  
A step up would be the aputure lights, which are a bit quieter and the color of the light might be slightly better. They are significantly more expensive than the Godox lights, but as they say, you often get what you pay for.
My understanding is that a good green screen requires EVEN lighting and you need to remove wrinkles as best as you can. And don't wear green clothing. And don't have green eyes.
I would look up tutorials on "Lighting a one person interview" because that is mainly what you will be doing. Same thing for looking up tutorials on audio for a one-person interview.
Hope this helps.

Good to see Justin Bieber being productive in his old age.

Interesting test though. I think it highlights overheating issues with small cameras in general, Canon certainly isn't alone. This hasn't stopped tons of people from using the A73 professionally. Tons of wedding videographers use it. 

Definitely an extreme heat situation though. 

I am not trying to be a snob, but I just can't watch the Tony and Chelsea videos anymore.
Here are a couple of people suggesting cameras - often based on video features of a camera - and their videos are (technically) horrible.
I mean, overly sharpened and contrasty (and both of them are at that age when having less sharpening would be a good idea). I hate the 60fps motion blur (or lack thereof).
Tony's audio, in particular, is so crunchy it hurts.  And I blame @IronFilm for making me care about audio quality. Life was so much easier when I had no clue what good audio sounds like. 

Z6 has about the same DR as S1H. A little over 12 stops. Tested myself. Well, depending on what's acceptable to you in the shadows, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 stop more on S1H as it uses NR.

Huh???
I quite like the image out of my S1. Much better than out of my Sony cameras. People who are far more talented than I have said that the image out of the S1 / S1H is basically equivalent to that out of the BMPCC6K and it seems that the image has more latitude than the 6K.
Yeah, the AF is disappointing. On the other hand, if you go with Panasonic lenses, then you get minimal focus breathing, and they are VERY close to being parfocal. 
Also, if you are using AF to do focus pulls, they are VERY smooth. Maybe that was one of the reasons they decided to use contrast detect / depth from defocus? It's like the lens ramps in and out when doing focus pulls via AF. 
Also, i guess one man's specs are another man's useful features. The EVF and the LCD on the S1 are quite a joy to use. The IBIS is great. It's nice that you have TWO zebra settings (although on the S1 it isn't quite as capable as the S1H in terms of zebras). Waveforms are very helpful (false color would be better though).  Full size HDMI port. 
And the camera is rugged. I know this first hand 😞 
Don't get me wrong: still lots of stuff I would love to see changed / improved on my S1. But it is certainly more than just a bunch of specs.

In my opinion needs a lot more than what is rumoured.
What about internal 10bit?
Internal N-LOG?
Is the 4K/60p APS-C only or full frame?
Dual card slots - Dual XQD or one SD and one XQD?
Are they going to improve the body design? Make it less consumer?
More to the point... Why would somebody buy a Z6 instead of S1 or EOS R6!

Has the employee responsible for their most recent release been fired yet?
 

I second the XT-3 or XT-30, those cameras are GREAT allrounders.

fuji xt-3 used are going very cheap at the moment, amazing video and photos, pick up the excellent 18-55 and a prime or 2 and you're set

What specifically makes you want to go back to a DSLR (just DSLRs, or do you include mirrorless too?) for shooting with? As this is kinda odd to want to go backwards to a DSLR (especially as you're not into photography). What exactly makes you "regret bitterly" that you bought the blackmagic?

If you can nail down these answers, it would be easier to figure out what is the best cameras for you to consider. 

That's weird... I would have expected it to be out of focus then...
(Yes, I own an S1)

That's weird... I would have expected it to be out of focus then...
(Yes, I own an S1)

That's weird... I would have expected it to be out of focus then...
(Yes, I own an S1)

That's weird... I would have expected it to be out of focus then...
(Yes, I own an S1)

That's weird... I would have expected it to be out of focus then...
(Yes, I own an S1)

I love Gunpowder

Before too many people get overly hyped on the redesign, consider that they introduce a new lens mount.... then you would have to buy all new glass! 
Either way, it's cool to see new tech coming out, but it's unbelievable how excited people get about 8k. This to me is pointless. I have the S1h and am soooo happy with it, because it has all the functions you need for video. Like for real. It makes everything so seamless and smooth when shooting. I think if camera companies want to really entice videographers, focus more on really important features like more dynamic range, better tools for exposing correctly (waveform/false colors), better button customization, and so on. But no, these companies really just seem to focus on resolution and people eat it up. Remember how much you want that 8k raw when you buy your C-fast cards.... whoa boyyy that's a lot of storage you'll need, and C-fast cards aren't cheap! I think 2020 will be a great year for tech, and I'm looking forward to seeing the footage from both of these cameras regardless. Thanks for the info!