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ade towell

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About ade towell

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  1. Some pretty impressive rolling shutter results for the 6k as reported by Captain Hook on DVXuser Full 6K : 19.73ms 5.7K crop : 16.26ms 2.8K crop : 7.98ms
  2. It's ok I wasn't attacking it just letting Shell64 know not to expect too much - it is still very soft. I had an m50 and tried using it exactly as you say as a b-cam to the c100 and the difference in quality and sharpness is pretty jarring. I found the good old Panasonic GH2 worked better when cutting between the 2. I haven't used a G7 but would imagine it is a fair amount sharper than the m50 In 4k it was sharper but still below the c100s hd, and the crop and RS are pretty considerable. But a fun camera for what it is and if it had ML I would still own one
  3. I wouldn't say the quality is a lot better, is still pretty mushy on any kind of wide and lowlight is disappointing. Fun little camera though
  4. I don't believe what most of the manufacturers claim either with regards DR, but having worked with the C100 and the Sony FS7 and a6300 I would say slog2 and 3 have a bit more DR to play with than clog. In 8 bit though, clog is much nicer to work with
  5. ok thanks good to know, similar to the C100 then, I wonder if that's a limitation of the 8 bit internal
  6. to be honest I thought slog2 held onto highlights better than clog on the C100 did. But the 8 bit was a problem with slog2 on the a6300 sometimes causing strange artefacts and banding, whereas 8 bit on clog seemed to work better. 10 bit slog2 and slog3 from the FS7 had way more highlight retention than the C100 in clog though
  7. So you don't understand how DR is measured but came onto a thread about using manual focus to tell us all that Panasonic is deceiving us. OK, as you were....
  8. Ha yes have had to accept glasses as part of my life now, makes going between viewfinder and screen a little trickier. I also now have XT3, will try your method and see if I can get used to it, can see AF being useful for tracking when only one person is in the scene
  9. There is but it felt like a very clumsy way to choose where to focus, maybe I need to keep at it but it didn't feel very intuitive - I do enjoy focusing manually, feel like I'm more in the scene. I realise tapping the screen is a better way to choose focus but I prefer to use viewfinder and my eyes struggle with a screen up close - that's what happens when you reach 50
  10. I meant how can I tell AF where to focus when using the viewfinder - focus peaking for sure when manual focusing
  11. As I said I like to use the viewfinder especially when going handheld, always have done - how do I tell it what to focus on then? I don't really use a gimbal, I generally prefer handheld aesthetic and feel they are way overused. I trust my manual focus skills more than I do the cameras AF
  12. It is the Film Convert giving the greens that yellowy look, had the same issue when using FC with Canon C100 particularly some of the Fuji presets, Kodak ones seemed a bit more balanced but they all messed with colours too much for my liking
  13. I prefer to focus manually but can't make a lens magically stabilise itself. Make sense? When handheld I like to use the EVF - how do you tell the camera which part you want to focus on when using AF? I don't trust it to read my mind
  14. The EOS-r is the most expensive here in the UK - the S1 is £150 cheaper than the EOS-r, seems much better value to me. Z6 you can get for £720 less than the Eos-r - also great value The S1 to me is the benchmark right now for image quality, colour, DR, IBIS, lowlight and with great 10 bit internal
  15. Would you still be able to get the free V-log key if it's grey import, would you be able to claim it via UK offer?
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