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Went hot-air ballooning and if there was ever a challenge for shooting, this was it. Extreme low-light and extreme DR from hugely bright light-sources. They say you can't take bags in the balloon, and it had been really wet weather, so I decided to go small. I took the GX85, TTartisans 17mm F1.4 for the low-light, Laowa 7.5mm F2 for an ultra-wide, and the 12-35mm F2.8. I was a bit cheeky and took a sling bag and kept it under my jacket. The requirement is that nothing is loose in the basket and that you can hold on with both hands for landing, so I figured my bag under my jacket was basically the same as having a big pocket. It's a crazy early start. We arrived in the field before first-light and they started setting up in pitch darkness guided only by torches. I started shooting at F1.7 and needed ISO6400 at first to get any kind of level on anything except their torches. I shot on the 17mm at F1.7 and gradually reduce the ISO until the balloon was mostly inflated, then swapped to the 7.5mm for a few wide shots, and then swapped to the 12-35mm F2.8 and it was time to get in the balloon and off we went. I also shot with my iPhone 12 mini for some quick shots using the ultra-wide when I didn't want to change lenses, and also as we were approaching landing, as I had put the camera away in anticipation. It was super-foggy and the pilot ended up having to land early and for a while we were going pretty close to the treetops so I'd put my camera away when he told us that he'd be landing at the next opportunity. Frame grabs.. mix of GX85 and iPhone, put through a quite moderate FLC pipeline. In retrospect I took the complete wrong equipment and used it in the wrong way (so, it's business as usual!) but the FLC pipeline really took the footage to the next level, and I used just enough strength on the film emulation to get rid of the digital look to the images. Here's a comparison. Grade (same as above): SOOC: The GX85 has super-whites so despite being SOOC that image is actually slightly clipped in-post and some highlights can be recovered, which the FLC grade has done, but you get the idea. The SOOC is with the GX85 default profile and has much more of a video look to it, despite being pretty good compared to other similar cameras. If I was to take the same equipment again, I'd lean into the darkness and just use the 17mm at F2.0 where it cleans up and use the GX85 at something sensible like ISO1600. This would have the early shots as perhaps being unusable, but it would mean that the torches the crew used wouldn't have been clipped (I clipped them in favour of exposing what they were shining on). We're going to go again later this year, and for that I plan to take the GH7, 9mm F1.7 and 14-140mm F3.5-5.6. This will be a much larger setup but if I use a neck strap then I only have to have one lens in a pocket and so I won't need a bag at all. I just bought the 9mm F1.7 and it's sharp wide-open, so apart from having AF, it is both an ultra-wide as well as a low-light lens. I can crop in-camera and/or in-post to get a tighter FOV, but you don't normally need long focal-lengths when it's that dark. The more I use this FLC pipeline the more I like it. If I'd have shown these images to my 2018 self, I wouldn't have believed me when I said that it was me that made them.

Fro Knows Photo - NEW SONY FX1 MADE ME SHIT MYSELF Gerald Undone - SONY FX1 is a bedwetting moment Philip Bloom - FX1 CURED MY LOVE OF CATS Jordan Drake - I JIZZED MY PANTS BECAUSE OF SONY Camera Conspiracies - SONY FX1 ABSOLUTELY CRAP VLOGGING CAMERA Camera Labs - SONY FX1 has been released and it shoots video Tony and Chelsea Northrup -

Congratulations on your purchase! I have the GX85, which apparently is very similar to the GX80, but you might notice small differences perhaps, so I guess maybe not everything I say below will apply to you. I shoot run-n-gun fast-paced stuff so probably very similar to the challenges you are facing. Here is how I setup and use my GX85. This is the screen, showing lots of handy info. Going from top right, here's what I do. I use the custom modes to store different configurations. In this case, it's in C3 and that is fully-manual. You can't set the mode (ie, PASM) once you've created the custom mode, you need to create the custom mode with the right PASM mode. To do this you choose the right PASM mode that you want to use using the top dial, then save that configuration to the custom mode with the "Cust Set Mem" function, and then you can change to that custom mode using the top dial and then further customise that custom mode. I use the standard profile. I've done lots of testing and the standard profile is the most flexible if you're going to further tweak the colours in post. If not, feel free to choose whatever mode you like. I use focus peaking and have set it to a custom button to switch between the high and low sensitivities. I use this in combination with making the display black and white so the peaking is more visible. No flash. 4k 24p. I've setup back-button focus. This means the camera is in MF mode, but I have configured the AE/AF Lock button to enable AF while you hold it down. The way I shoot with an AF lens is to push in that button, see what it focuses on (which is obvious because of the peaking) and then I release the button, then I hit record. This means that the focus doesn't change during the shot. This means the focus isn't hunting around all over the place, it's not focusing on the persons hand or on the person that walks in between you and your subject, it doesn't focus on the background if they move in frame, etc. It won't follow them if their focus distance changes, which can ruin some shots, but my experience is that AF jumping around ruins more shots than the subject moving does. Plus, if the subject moves slightly the aesthetic of them being slightly out of focus for a bit is far less objectionable than the AF jumping around for no reason. IBIS is enabled. IBIS gets a lot of criticism but if you stand still and hold the camera as still as you can then the IBIS will simply help you to be more stable and the jitters and jello effects can be reduced entirely. Shooting in fast situations means that tripods and monopods are often too slow and cumbersome, but if you try and emulate a tripod by using IBIS (or better yet, combine IBIS with OIS from a stabilised lens) then you can easily get very stable hand-held shots that with a tiny bit of stabilisation in post can be perfectly locked off without and artefacts at all. I set my AF to be in the middle of the frame, which combined with back-button focus is really fast and usable. Even if you do the photography thing of putting the subject in the middle, doing AF, then setting up your composition, it all works perfectly. I expose using the histogram. Exposure is a big topic, but I have done extensive testing and have concluded the following. In the Standard profile, you can do quite significant changes to exposure and WB in-post, even with simple tools, if you keep the exposure in the middle. The limits are that if something is clipped then it's clipped (of course!) and if it's in the noise floor then it's also gone. Apart from that, you have lots of flexibility. Audio meters show the levels. I use auto-levelling, but audio isn't really a big part of what I do and if you only shoot short clips like I do then any variation in level that it introduces isn't going to be much over a short clip, and it saves more shots by adjusting itself than it ruins. You can always set it to manual if you like. Aperture and shutter speed. I always use 1/50s when I shoot manually. Adjust as you see fit, depending on if you want to expose with shutter speed and not use a vND. Personally, I find that not having the exposure going up and down randomly is a good thing, and adjusting the shutter speed with the dial is just as painful as adjusting a vND. If you're using a manual lens then you can just set the camera once, and then all your controls are on the lens (vND, aperture, focus) so that's a really nice way of working. Lighting doesn't change that much, especially in daytime exteriors, so it's not a big deal. I've swapped to a high quality 2-5 stop vND and it's got enough range for daytime if you're willing to stop down a bit during the brightest bits. In busy outdoor situations you don't want to blur the crap out of the background anyway, so stopping down is actually more relevant than isolating subjects to the point where the shot could have been taken anywhere. The exposure meter is sometimes useful, but it's dumb. For example if you're shooting a person and a white van drives past in the background it thinks that you should change the exposure. Obviously that's dumb because you're shooting the person and not the van. ISO200 = base ISO. This camera doesn't have great high-ISO, so stick to base ISO when you can. WB = 5600K. I shoot exclusively in this mode. After using auto-WB for many years, I've come to realise that while different lights appear different with a fixed WB, things look like what they are. During the day things look right, sunset looks very warm but looks right, fluorescent lights look green but that also looks right. I rarely change WB in post now, and if I do it's to even out and tiny variations between shots just to polish the final video. My final piece of advice is to get a native zoom lens. Either the 12-35mm F2.8 or 14-140mm F3.5-5.6 are great, but the 14-42mm kit lens is also very capable and not to be underestimated. In complex situations you are often restricted in where you can move to, and will often want to zoom in to control your compositions. Having AF speeds up your shooting substantially, especially when you might only have seconds to get rolling when you see a moment about to happen. Happy to discuss further if you have questions, and I recommend searching around here, I've been posting lots of stuff over the years, including lots of tests and sharing what I have learned. Also happy to talk about strategies for shooting coverage, etc. Once you buy the gear and learn the settings you can make a video. It's what's in front of the camera and what's behind the camera that determine how good that video will be.

People might laugh at me, but I don't care. I've been doing some walk-around filming with my G7 and 9mm Leica versus my S5ii and the kit lens. I'm absolutely dumbfounded how little the differences are. Here are my settings: Panasonic Lumix G7 - 4k 25fps (EOSHD ProColor Settings, with minor tweaks), super-fast stabilization in Final Cut (InertiaCam- smoothing (.1), continuous video AF on with it's small box in the center (yes, that's right and it didn't really hunt), A Mode, Auto ISO, handheld only, AWB Panasonic Lumix S5II - 4k 25fps (Stadard profile), no stabilization in post (but had IBIS on), continuous AF (mode 2), small box in the center, A Mode, Auto ISO, handheld only, AWB I kid you not, the images were very similar, minus the color which seemed better on the G7 to my eye. After stabilization, there was little difference. Here are some stills: It would appear the 2015 G7 is still the little engine that could. It weighs a whopping 540g less than the S5II and kit lens. I could add the 14-140, the 25 f/1.4 and perhaps a recorder or mini tripod for that difference. This is where M43 needs to go in the future: small, excellent value, with great features like 4k, PDAF, IBIS, 10 bit h.265, with a proper shutter and hot shoe. Even the previous generation(s) from 2015-2018 have so much to offer.

"Canon doesn't want you to know about this camera" "This camera changes everything" "Why I sold all my gears to get this camera" "Why Hollywood loves cropped 4k"

Ok I bought the C500 mkII. Can't wait to create the first project with it. First tests the AF is so much smoother then my S5II, maybe not faster, but it feels more natural. As does the image. The dynamic range is not crazy better over an S5 or S5II it seems. The highlight rolloff seems smoother though. The internal Nd's are fun too.

I still have my G7 -- I got rid of my GH1, nice though it was back in the day, but kept this little camera; the simplicity of using it remains an attraction. This was my first camera test with it:

Having used both professionally, I'd go FX30 all day. The XS-20 is a fun photography camera, that does video pretty well too. It's just not quite up for pro level work in my opinion. The image is really good, the size is fun, and the color is pretty good too. It's kind of fiddly though, lacks a good selection of custom buttons, overheats a lot, struggles with autofocus a bit and has the SD card in the battery compartment, which is something I personally don't enjoy. While not being maybe "as fun" as the XS-20, the FX30 is more of a workhorse. Decent color, duel native ISOs, integrated Sony cinema features, solid autofocus, good cooling, easily riggable form factor and the list goes on. The major con is lack of a EVF, but I rarely use built in EVFs, so that doesn't bother me. Basically if I'm choosing a family camera for stills and some video, I'd go the XS-20. For professional video work, the FX30 is a much more reliable choice.

In 1988 I wasn't too displeased with the result, though...

That’s honestly my favourite bit! They need to have a proper hardcore mode where you can only “carry” four rolls of “film” with you and use the app like Pokémon Go where have to go and find a virtual chemist or photo store nearby to get another roll when you run out. I’d make these virtual shops have opening hours as well ! Would be a big fan of the app making you have to load the “film” into the app in the dark and you then having to do all your “developing” in the app with the screen having a faint red glow across it. You could even use the gyro sensors in the device to make you have to agitate the “film” to develop it. I wouldn’t even be averse to you having to post off for a code when you’ve shot a roll of “film” using a reversal simulation and then having to wait a week to get a code back that will unlock the roll and develop it with a non changeable preset process.

I think it's OnSemi. They are ARRI's partner on the new ALEXA sensor. TowerJazz had / have a joint venture with Panasonic, but OnSemi make the more up-to-date sensor tech and there are quite a few parallels between the ALEXA sensor readout tech and latest Panasonic cameras. In 2022 Panasonic exited the semiconductors business and sold all the assets. The organic sensor project is official dead, but it allowed them to partner with more than just Sony for sensors.

There are no riots in Los Angeles. Get your information from a real news source.

I think it’s great. Another camera that could have been great but isn’t so I have utterly zero interest in and therefore will not be spending any money on. Keep it up camera industry, you are doing good and keeping my money firmly in my bank account 🫡

< Off to desperately search for a G9ii review by someone called Wright so I can make a two wongs don’t make a right quip>

Not to bring religion into it, but Jesus wept. The column highlighted is in the classic Ionic style. They need to stop teaching the classics at places such as Oxford, Cambridge or in architecture. And knock down what remains of Ancient Greece.

I think you might need to seek professional help before you go shoot up a pizza restaurant (which doesn't even have a basement). The AltCine people took their camera out and saw a neat-looking building and filmed it. To demonstrate detail, they zoomed in on a thing that has diagonal and curved lines that show aliasing. Please don't turn a camera discussion site into some bullshit about freemason conspiracy theories.

Recently saw a second hand Sony ZV-E1 on a local online market place. Price was good and I bought it. Great video camera but lacks EVF. Same is true for it's pro oriented brother FX3. Typically those type of cameras are used with external monitor on professional shoots or with camera LCD display only when vlogging. If you like EVFs and want to add one, choice is not great. No external add-on EVF from Sony like the one Sigma FP has. Portkeys LEYE III modified with better loupe is the cheapest one at 450-500 E/$ but I wouldn't call it small. Then Kinefinity EVF for 1250 E/$. Great one but definitely not affordable. There is an obvious gap and need for a relatively small, high quality, affordable external EVFs for cinema / hybrid cameras. I was looking for quite some time on AliExpress for Mini OLED displays (0.39'' to 0.7'') as a building blocks for DIY External EVF. Usually they come with controller board with HDMI input too. Almost bought some components preparing to do some 3D design and printing around them. Surprisingly found an EVF ready to be used. This type of EVFs were designed to be used with industrial instruments and were on AliExpress for quite some time. They all had lower resolution and AV video inputs in the past. For the first time saw one with 1920x1080 resolution on a 0.7'' mini OLED display and HDMI input. Also for the first time this type of EVFs is targeted toward cameras. Price was good too at 230E/$ so I decided to give it a try. Received the EVF few days ago and am happy to report that it is better than expected. Here is the list of things that I like and few that I don't like: What I Like: High resolution 1920x1080 ( equivalent to 6 220 800 dot camera EVF). Cameras EVFs have 4:3 ratio to cover 3:2 frame + some black strips on top and bottom to display information like exposure and other camera settings. The sensor on this one has 16:9 aspect ratio. To get 3:2 ratio the EVF crops the image to 1620x1080. Still great resolution at the level of ~5 mln dots EVFs like the one in Panasonic S1 series. I see in the EVF exactly what I see on the LCD screen of Sony ZV-E1 minus peaking. This is a rather good thing. Solid, all metal outer shell, good, even great quality of craftsmanship. Eye cup is big, made from rubber and fits around the eye much better than traditional camera EVFs. Big and bright screen - has at least 10 levels of brightness that can be changed and controlled manually. Picture inside looks big and bright, quite easy to see. Smooth focusing / diopter correction ring. HDMI cable is integrated, ready to be plugged into a camera. HDMI cable looks to have good quality. No need of additional power or battery. It gets small amount of power (500mA) from HDMI. This is a huge plus for me. Has mounting thread, can easily be mounted on rigs or cages or even on camera hot shoe. Can be tilted and placed in any position you want. Another huge plus. I've simply put it on monitor holder for hot shoe, which is mounted on the camera cage. EVF sits higher and is slightly tilted. It also provides 3rd point of contact and add stability. I am able to hold the camera lower and closer to the chest, which makes it more stable when shooting. Optimal size for me ! Not too small and not too big. Relatively light. Another huge plus. Optics made of glass, look high quality. Great price for what it offers - 200 Euro ($) including shipping and taxes after some Aliexpress discount. Because EVF receives its power from HDMI you don't have to switch it on separately. It has its own ON/OFF switch but if you stop the camera, EVF stops too as it doesn't receive power from HDMI. This is very convenient because it semi integrates with the camera, you don't have to switch it on/off separately. What could be better: While loupe (optics) craftsmanship is high quality, optical schema is probably not the best. Seeing tower end of the frame and in the corners is kind of difficult. In photo mode EVF has to show picture with 3:2 ratio. It crops the display at 1620x1080 to achieve this ratio. Same is true for video. This is great because this way corners of the OLED display are always cropped and dark while picture in the EVF is still high quality and resolution is still great too. So you always look at a picture which is in focus from end to end and you can see the whole of it. Brightness control has many steps but goes only in one direction. Adjusting it when you want to make picture darker or go at the opposite direction is difficult. You have to cycle trough all settings value until arriving before the setting you were a moment ago. Brightness control button is too small and uncomfortable to use. Both are not huge issues because eye cup completely isolates your eye and cuts external light at almost 100%. Once you set the brightness level you rarely need to adjust it. It doesn't have the additional tools a pro external viewfinder usually has - like peaking, False color, zebras, etc. Because it takes power from camera and becomes additional consumer, battery is drained a little faster. Hard to say how much faster. I still prefer this compared to EVF that have their own battery. Picture is not as clear as in a high quality camera viewfinder. Native camera EVF receives video stream that already has noise reduced. Image on HDMI out from the camera is more like RAW video, lots of noise in the shadows at high ISO, some noise even at lower ISO. I guess the same would be with any external EVF, even expensive PRO ones. It's not EVF's fault. I also see sometimes some texture like noise, not sure because of this particular OLED display or because of the HDMI out stream. Overall picture quality is not up to what you see in a camera integrated EVF but it is close. Surprisingly noise in the shadows helps me better judge exposure and use successfully ETTR. I live in a PAL region but camera was set to NTSC to have 24fps. There was a lot of flicker in EVF image even when only natural (sun) light was available. Maybe this can be avoided with some additional camera settings. No such problem when camera is set to PAL and 25fps. Sometimes when adjusting brightness, EVF looses sync and doesn't display any image. Have to switch camera on/off one time and problem is resolved. Not a big deal but it happened once or twice. HDMI cable is integrated. A PRO EVF has just HDMI out socket and you can choose your own HDMI cable. This one can be easily modified IMHO. Size: L=~50mm; Diameter ~43mm; weight 188g with the integrated HDMI cable Overall I like it a lot. There is nothing like it on the market and especially at this price point. I am surprised it took Chinese manufactures so long to figure out that a good market for external EVFs exists. I prefer it over modified Portkey LEYE III because of the smaller size and no need to plug and charge another battery. I may buy another one. 🙂 Now my Sony ZV-E1 has an EVF and a great one too. 🙂 Here is the link: On Aliexpress You can find it on ebay too. Search for V780H EVF Here how it sits on top of Sony ZV-E1

This is not so much about the quality of the image but more to do with the quality of the posts on here. Historically, the action cameras have produced a LOT of spam on here either directly from new members setting up accounts to pimp them or some very suspicious stuff from existing members. Having a single repository for them makes sense to me in the same way that there is one for lenses. If people have an interest in new developments (as indeed I do myself) then there is a specific thread to subscribe to without numerous individual ones popping up that then have to be curated and assessed. Of course you could argue that this could then be true for a lot of topics but the historical context of dubious spammy shite for those is different.

Red bull might have something to say about that, It would seem to me that they have made a truckload of money off the back of extreme sports shooting as well as selling a few more cold drinks in the process. I suspect its also kept a few camera men / editors in a job as well. It may not be your "thing" and definitely its a niche area but it still videography and worthy of a thread i think. Like eatstoomuchjam and Emanuel have said, your house your rules and we appreciate that you opening up this thread. No idea where the next david lynch or Spielberg is coming from but there's a good chance one of his / her cameras will be an action camera of some type to cut their teeth on. I was blown away by Chris Benchetler' chasing el nino series from like ten years ago. amazing scenes of winter wonderlands, great skiing and huge jumps with alot of gopro footage. Inspired enough to buy a gopro anyway lol. In hindsight i suspect there was probably a film crew with your typical camera gear doing all the normal stuff with a few skiers wearing gopros. If i was more cynical i'd say very clever marketing by red bull and gopro, however still very impressive visually. I dropped and cracked a two day old iphone 13 pro max while documenting the local roads after the last big storm / flash floods we had. Really wish i'd gone out that day with the gopro... Hats off to anyone who gets out there and does stuff. Be it a wedding, forest trail or car show and I'm brand agnostic, so use what you got.

WTH of a combo! 56 grams + 1/1.7-inch CMOS sensor delivering 4K video at up to 120 frames per second... https://dlmag.com/dji-osmo-nano-leak-reveals-ultra-compact-action-camera-set-to-revive-modular-design/

https://www.canonrumors.com/canon-aps-c-shooters-rejoice-sigma-to-launch-the-rf-17-40mm-f-1-8-and-rf-12mm-f-1-4/ Remember those like 5 years where everyone had the 18-35mm f1.8? Seems like this would be the successor. Full frame is of course dominant now, so this wouldn't be as omnipresent as the 18-35, but could still be a very popular choice, at least if it comes to other mounts too.

I ordered the EVF thanks to this great thread. Shipping took around 3 weeks to Germany and I had to pay 20€ extra. 215€ total. Thats not even half the price of the Sigma FP EVF. Unfortunately it does not work 100% with the Sigma FP. The camera screen flickers when I plug the EVF in and once in a while a frame appears on the EVF. After switching the settings of the HDMI Output in the menu a couple of times it eventually always works. Sometimes it takes 1 minute, sometimes 10 seconds, but after I switch off the camera it's always the same issue again. At first I thought it wouldn't work at all and that the HDMI power of the FP was not strong enough but once the EVF works it does so without a problem until I power off the camera. For focus the image is nice and mirroring the camera display works great, with peaking, false colour, magnification, etc. The blacks are crushed (and have a green tint), so for exposure it is not as useful. If it wouldn't be for that annoying connectivity issue this thing would be perfect. Paired with the 28-200 this finally makes my stripped down "Bolex FP" complete. Being able to adjust the EVF freely and keep the camera close to my chest is really comfortable and the Lens Stabilisation makes the FP viable for handheld while still being compact and light. Think I'll be using this for slow paced personal projects or when I am filming constantly and dont turn off the camera a lot. The form factor and not having to think about extra batteries is great. For photography in sunlight I'll still have to use my diy loupe for the backscreen because waiting up to a minute for the EVF to finally work is just to cumbersome. @Clark Nikolai Do you know if the buttons on the back have any functionality apart from the one that changes brightness?

The new Black Mirror episode is a real banger... ...in which Philip Bloom goes all the way to the White House and starts making up the laws of the land, a new Constitution. Law number 1... ALL media is given a platform based on promotional effectiveness and loyalty to the CAT KINGDOM. Those media not interested in cats, are de-platformed and uninvited from Sony camera launches. Law number 2... Universities watch out... Cat Zionism is about. Or should that be Meowism. Any pro-pussians and anyone who doesn't worship white fur is deported to a columbian jail. Law number 3... Lawyers and judges are to be superseded by weekly episodes of the Supreme Apprentice, where 6 cats around a table ultimately get to settle all arguments big or small with the flick of a tail. Law number 4... Japanese cameras are banned, all cameras must have pet detection and be made in Texas. Law Number 5... All China cats and European cats get out. The CAT KINGDOM is only for AMERICAN AND BRITISH PUSSY.

Comparison is the thief of joy when it comes to creative tools. Most cameras these days are a victim of comparison. If we all stop comparing the choices, life becomes much more simple. Buy what you can afford and be happy 🙂

It's 3200 EUR here in Germany compared to the A7 IV for 2100. This could have been an amazing camera if it came out a few years ago, now it's just kinda 'whatever' with the hardware limitations. Personally I couldn't life with the rolling shutter, the PetaPixel video has shown well in some shots the kinda crazy wobble/jelly you can get shooting 24p handheld (same reason I hated my A6300 back in the day). But the real disrespectful part is the resolution of the display, that's like tech from 10 years ago with not even half the pixels of the FX30 screen. I find the form factor great and if this would have had a sensor more like the Z6III / S1II it would have been an amazing option.

Now thats, what you call vintage glass.

Here's the original video. Of course, this is for testing purposes only as I don't usually shoot like this. I just wanted to see how stable I could make the G7 and see how fast it could reacquire focus once in a settled position. What I learned is the smaller you make the AF box, the faster continuous will reacquire focus. I just went from subject to subject, placing the framing where the focus point was. I doubt the footage of my Panasonic VX980 would have been better, just WAY noisier.

Cropping in post. That’s what I see and like about 8k. 8k for the sake of 8k though, not interested. Same for me with stills and high megapixel cameras. Some say they don’t need 50-100mp and I don’t either, not for the sake of having more, but I do like it because it allows me more reach from smaller or less lenses. I can carry a single 28-105 and ditch the 24-70 + 70-200 combo.

I have now imported my iPhone footage and put it through the same FLC pipeline as my GH7 footage. As you may recall, I shot the "home video" parts of the trip with my iPhone 12 Mini, and part of the goals of the new FLC pipeline is to be able to improve the iPhone footage and match it better with the GH7 footage. Overall, I am pleasantly surprised with both the images and the user experience. With my phone in my left-front pocket and GH7 in my right-hand, I could extend the pop-socket out, pull my phone out, shoot with it, then put it back, all with my left hand and not having to even turn off the GH7. Having the ability to swap from shooting with the GH7 and 14-140mm to an ultra-wide in seconds is great when you want to capture the action in real-time: It has surprisingly good handling of real-world DR: It allows for quick and unobtrusive shooting in restaurants and cafes: which also gives some background defocus which is nice. ...and it is great for shooting in very cramped or crowded situations: I struggled shooting in the Myongdong night-markets just because the GH7 was so conspicuous and just not well designed for such things, however the iPhone worked quite well for those chaos-and-people-everywhere shots, and was great for shooting situations at point-blank range: In retrospect I wish I had shot more whimsical footage with it throughout the trip, but that's a note for next time. In order to see how the FLC is contributing to these images, let's compare some of the above shots to how they would have looked with a simple CST workflow (I did a CST to DWG, matched exposure, then CST to 709-A). FLC: 709-A: FLC: 709-A: FLC: 709-A: I find that it takes the digititis out of the images quite a bit. Another thing it does is hide some of the limitations of the iPhone too. Here's a shot I took from out the train window. It's obviously a very low-light shot and the iPhone NR was probably set to "armageddon". 709-A: FLC (with a touch of sharpening): Anything in post that applies across all your shots will help to unify them, and so having a slight softening applied to all the footage, as well as similar colour treatment, can really help to smooth things around any rough shots. I created my own powergrade using FLC I called "50mm" because I took the grain and softening settings from the 35mm and 65mm presets and set things to the mid-point between the two, effectively emulating a 50mm film process. I have more work to do, including working out what settings give what results once the footage has gone through the YT compression, but it's a start.

Lumix S line prices are rising again on the used market. Vintage and quirky Mft cameras too. I got an orange GM5 with a 12-32 lens and two batteries for a good price two years ago, with the box, everything in great condition except the leather case. They cost up to three times as much now of what I paid two years ago! Here it is, a flimsy beauty, a tiny S9 minus 4K 10bit, but with evf, mechanical shutter and hotshoe:)

The line was absolutely leapt over for me when we started to see £1500+ MFT bodies. I haven’t bought anything new since 2019 and even then it was because I was developing products that necessitated it. Obviously, I’m an addict, so I’ve bought other cameras since but they’ve all been used ones and if I was to buy a new one again then I would be fishing in shallower waters where there is some great value like the X-M5 and Z50ii. I am definitely getting a used Z8 in the winter as it’s as peak camera as I would need and is also peak price as I’d be prepared to pay these days. And at the point at which I buy it, then it will only have taken me two years and a half years to finally pull the trigger. For someone with the impulse control of Jim from American Pie, I’m counting that as progress.

Maybe the Arri/Panasonic relationship is more than just the LogC thing, maybe they're sharing costs/tech at OnSemi.

Like I said these idiotic tariffs are causing the market to act as a cartel. Capitalism is all about competition so if one company faces higher costs, and the others don't, then that company suffers and the rest can keep their prices low. If all companies are forced to up-their prices, it sets a new expectation for the entire market for costs, and nobody loses as the consumer can't simply turn to a company with lower prices when they are all subject to the same market forces. So even if the prices go up in the US, that gives the camera companies the perfect excuse to do the dirty on the UK and Europe as well.

Funnily enough, a former client from 2014 contacted me today to say that she had 'lost' her wedding video and did I still have it? After I stopped laughing, I thought hang on, it is probably still on Vimeo. And it was. I thought it would look so dated and be an utter cringe-fest, but actually it wasn't and I was a bit surprised. It was shot on the GH3.

Pre-tarrifs and recent inflation up-tick, I was wondering how sustainable $7000 was for a flagship mirrorless camera, or $3200+tax for a mid-range camera like the S1 II ($4k with kit lens), and now we have the first joke camera with bad AF for $850 thanks to Fujifilm. https://www.eoshd.com/news/camera-prices-have-the-japanese-taken-leave-of-their-senses/ Now we're about to add more inflation and tarrifs to these numbers, so it's possible that by the end of the year a new mid-range full frame camera will be released to the market for over $4500, and that the Sony a1 III might cost $9000. At what point does the line get crossed for you guys, when will you stop buying?

https://www.wexphotovideo.com/panasonic-lumix-s9-digital-camera-body-with-20-60mm-f3-5-5-6-lens-black-3170471/ £800 off. Which makes it £999 with the 20-60mm kit lens. The body only is down to as little as £750 open box mint used. Down from the RRP of a few months ago £1600. One can only assume they are having massive problems shifting them. Which is a pity because the S9 is a fun little beast.

It's a reminder that we're very lucky and have also probably hit a wall when it comes to image processing when a 2015 camera still looks so good 10 years later.

EOSHD ProColor looking great 😉 Much nicer than the Panasonic profile on the S5 II

What's interesting about Japanese market, which by no means representing the global market tho, is not Nikon taking the lead, which is a sudden jump by a single product, but Sony's steady decline, despite all previous generation alpha cameras they were selling at lower prices.

Oh you better believe it's coming, Canon would be foolhardy to leave a ton of cash on the table. As always, they'll let other manufacturers take the risk with their products and test if their is a market for it. Only then will they'll release a camera and gobble up the lion's share of it.

I've just sold my 2016 Nissan at the same price it was in 2020.

Yes, the 2017 GH5 also has 60fps open gate, with even better detail rendering than the S1II at low ISO.

No, I was there the whole time!

I don’t think so and the rest of the world is facing price hikes to help cover the the stupidity/costs.

That price is with the new 24-60 which is not bad? Non of the other camera you mentioned do OG 60p so for OG users that is quite the moot point. But for general users who don't care about OG they certainly have more choices. Anyway with Panasonic there is always the fire sale after few months to a year, so for S1II I gonna wait for a year to see how much discount I can get. In the mean time I m rocking with S9 and S5II. Got them both cheap after the discount and free lens to boot (free 85mm 1.8 for NZ one)

Many of these jokes are about the new Zhiyun X100 RGB which they did in partnership with Cam Mackey. It has his name and roadrunner logo on nearly every possible surface as well as a silly faux-leatherette wrap. I've bought a few YouTuber partner things from brands because they're actually useful/decent (the Potatojet tripod, a few of the SmallRig Caleb Pike batteries (2 100W USB-C ports is neat), even some Gerald Undone HDMI cables from Komodo Blue because the store was out of stock on the normal blue ones and when ordering online, it's hard to know which HDMI cables will actually work as advertised), but that was more despite the branding which was thankfully pretty subtle. The X100, even if I were interested, would be a "no" because the branding is a combination of obnoxious and everywhere. https://store.zhiyun-tech.com/products/molus-x100-rgb?variant=43885286457524

How about a mode to simulate when you get the bleach and the fix steps back to front because you're a bit drunk?

I feel for them a little bit. Full-frame mirrorless camera with a 24.1MP partially stacked CMOS sensor Powered by a Venus Engine for fast processing, refined colour and low noise Over 15 stops of dynamic range with Dual Native ISO support 1.6x faster Phase Hybrid AF system with 779 focus points and AI tracking Records uncropped 5.1K open gate video at up to 60p and 6K at 30p Supports 5.9K 60p and 5.8K Apple ProRes internal recording via CFexpress C4K and 4K video recording up to 120p in 10-bit for high frame rate capture 10-bit HEIF captures rich tonal detail, smaller file sizes and HDR-ready stills Real-time LUT preview and false colour for on-set monitoring Features 8-stop in-body image stabilisation without crop 32-bit float audio recording achieved via optional XLR adapter Dual card slots with CFexpress Type B and SD UHS-II support Supports direct USB-SSD recording for high bitrate capture and fast offloading Compatible with UltraSync BLUE for wireless Bluetooth timecode sync Blackout-free electronic burst shooting up to 70fps for fast action capture Tilt and vari-angle 3.0-inch LCD with 1.84M-dot resolution 5.76M-dot OLED EVF with 100% frame coverage and high refresh rate Dust and splash-resistant body, weighing only 800g Includes a 3-month Capture One licence in the box After producing something with that spec, they're entitled to be a bit like.. By the same token, we are probably entitled to say "we might have been a couple of years ago and if it was cheaper". I've said it before but the S5ii continues to be Panasonic's problem child in that it raised expectation for the 2nd generation of cameras and at a price that was pretty surprising. That camera got the upgraders from Panasonic's MFT cameras (myself included) and this new one is asking the question "2x the price, 2x the camera?" for both the holdouts of to the MFT system and those who already moved up to the S5ii and are looking to go up again. I think it probably is 2x the camera for some people but I can't see anyone who isn't in the L mount prison (and that is what L mount is) walking into a shop and paying 50% more for it over the Z6iii let alone paying the 10% more than a lightly used Z8. Hard reality is that they are not Nikon, Canon or even Sony and they're going to struggle with flagship cameras. Annoyingly for them, they can create the cameras that will attract a premium price technology wise and produce a fine image as they've been doing it for years with Leica branded versions but, again, when it comes to the other type of image they aren't Leica. They have the opportunity to do a FujiFilm and offer an alternative but they've left them to it to pursue two companies that absolutely out heritage them and another company that they are at the mercy of when it comes to sensors. This will all end with someone at corporate HQ dispassionately looking at the Lumix division and striking a red pen through it. Exactly like what happened to Samsung. Cameras that I think they could look at doing to offer some difference would be : New GX80 with the bulk of the GH7 inside or at the very least the GH5 and then not charge a stupid amount of money for it as it should be possible for sub £1000. A Super35 bridge camera with a 7x or even 5x zoom, no compromise video internals, ND and then not charge a stupid amount of money for it as it should be possible for sub £2000. Essentially a grown up version of the FZ2000. I'd buy either of those and I don't think I'd be alone. Currently, Lumix are like the smart, quirky indie girl that you fell in love with and now ten years later she's got hair extensions, fake tits, a trout pout and two ton of fillers because she wants to be a Kardashian.

Picked up a used GH6 and got the LogC firmware and I am loving it. I have a Lens Turbo in FD mount and the underrated 35-105mm Canon lens, but am looking to keep this set up as native as possible. I picked up a 7artisans 24mm 1.4 on the cheap and am pleasantly surprised by the lens, especially since every review I could find of it, trashes it. Since almost every review was with the lens on an aps-c camera, I assume some of the goop is cropped out with m4/3. Anyway, I'm looking for a cheap zoom, probably a Panasonic kit, that is better than it should be. I intend on making it my Spielberg f/5.6 lens, but then I got to wondering if any of the kit lenses are accidentally parfocal? I'd love for the little 14-42 PZ to be that lens, but for some reason I doubt it. I assume I'll eventually give in and get the 12-35mm for the added IBIS, but the point of the camera is to keep it on the cheap. Here are a few frames from the 7artisans in case anyone is interested. These were my first few shots with the lens and the LogC profile. Other than the Arri LUT and an s-curve, no construction equipment was harmed with this set up...