andrgl

lol @ the "pro" moniker, BMD slipping, they're letting their media people name shit:
No SDI, only unreliable HMDI No wifi video, no 3rd party/1st party module for wireless video No locking lens mount No interchangeable lens mounts No recorder slot for SSD/nvme media, only unreliable USB-C Very cool. Photo body (fuck ergonomic ENG/camcorder designs) with a tilt screen and shitty NDs. I'm glad we're getting these iterative changes, moar products pls! I love when BMD stretches their staff thin, so we get less firmware fixes and improvements.
And more products means more parts to house. So when your camera dies like a year after warranty, Blackmagic will tell you SOoL, we no repair.

Ok so I don't listen to a lot of rumors but when it comes to Noshikita, they're quite reliable. Did you guys see the next cinema line camera that Sony should announce this month likely?
 

If size and cost aren't limiting factors, I'd go steadicam vest+arm & gimbal.
Balancing a gimbal is easier than a steadicam. Steadicam arm+vest eliminate some of the fatigue and helps smooth out z-axis bounce.
😄 you could even be as cool as this guy 👇🏽... slapping on a monitor, with no wires or batteries... hauling 15lbs of gear to stabilize a heavy ass sony A6XXX. lmfao wtf is even going on in this pic?! 🤣
 

If size and cost aren't limiting factors, I'd go steadicam vest+arm & gimbal.
Balancing a gimbal is easier than a steadicam. Steadicam arm+vest eliminate some of the fatigue and helps smooth out z-axis bounce.
😄 you could even be as cool as this guy 👇🏽... slapping on a monitor, with no wires or batteries... hauling 15lbs of gear to stabilize a heavy ass sony A6XXX. lmfao wtf is even going on in this pic?! 🤣
 

I learned how to use a cheap glide-cam rig a long time ago.  I kind of love it.  Works like a champ.  Never easy, but 100% reliable.  It's just metal, joints, hinges, and counter weights.  You'd have to run it over with a car to destroy it.  
And you're right, for the few times I pull it and use it, it delivers the goods.  Ain't that all you need from it? 
Also, there's an argument for having a piece of gear that will do something well, but is somewhat of a PITA to use; I find that it keeps you "honest" visually.  Do I REALLY want/need a floaty shot here?  Is that visually mission critical for the project?  If yes, then lug out the heavy glide-cam rig.  If not, then leave it alone. 
I have a colleague that spent thousands on gimball stuff.... guess what almost all his footage looks like now?  It looks novel, granted...but I'm not sold on it.  Feels like an lazy aesthetic style of this era....like bell bottom jeans; fun while they're around, but a little cringy looking back on it once everyone moves on from it.

Steadicam copies often don't as many ways to adjust your balance, haven't been a big fan of any of the ones I've used. If I buy another "steadicam" it will be from Steadicam. Of course you pay a premium for it. The other issue is steadicam's are made to be used with a lot of weight. The more the better really. Something like an XT3 is extremely light. You'll have a much easier time with a gimbal. 

@kye I'd suggest investing in some industry standard grip equipment.
As an example I put an overload loaded FS5MII (~10 lb) on single cardellini clamp. Wood adds rigidity and makes surface even, improving the clamping force.
Note: this is a totally unsafe rig, if it pivots kiss your camera goodbye, but if all you had was just a cardellini and gobo head... 😆

Believe it or not, I don't have any 1/4-20 sized gear on hand. This demos the versatility of a gobo head really well actually. Here's a Sony a6500 with a just a hardware store 1/4-20 machine bolt screw:


There are baby pins with your selection of thread, male of female. Mine is all 3/8 unfortunately, but should give you an idea of what you can do:

@kye so in your case, for weight and size, you're after:
Matthews Mini Matthellini Clamp (B&H) Matthews MiniGrip Head (B&H) Total weight is around 210 g. If you're in Europe, not sure what the Matthews equivalent is.
You'll still need to mount your camera to a 3/8" pin, or even just a threaded rod cut to size.

@kye I'd suggest investing in some industry standard grip equipment.
As an example I put an overload loaded FS5MII (~10 lb) on single cardellini clamp. Wood adds rigidity and makes surface even, improving the clamping force.
Note: this is a totally unsafe rig, if it pivots kiss your camera goodbye, but if all you had was just a cardellini and gobo head... 😆

Standard mafer/cardellini clamps not doing it for you?

already made 400% on silver, let'ssss gooooo!

When the Forza 300 came to market one or two years ago I was quite impressed by the reviews for color accuracy. For a daylight fixture to be at that time in the range of 999$, it seemed like a good price, but it was still a little much for my budget. Still, I wondered, because the LED market evolves so fast, where we would end up in a couple of years on the LED offerings. With the FS series from Nanlite, now you get a stronger beam and without a huge ballast to mess you up in your setup. I guess Nanlite is really onto something that will be quite attractive for small crews. You essentially get a 300watt LED daylight for 1/3 of the price of usual Aputure, etc brands. God, I can't wait for the other front runners to bid and offer models in the same range. LEDs are going to get CHEAP!
nanliteus.com/collections/fs-series

SUCCESS!
Just to finish this thread, I replaced the eBay purchased Metabones XL with a new one. The new one had much tighter tolerances and even a weather sealed gasket on the back. I had to adjust the infinity focus a small amount but now my XL and Tokina 28-70mm work great together! 

@JordanWright No, don´t finish this thread. Always beautiful to see that Tokina in action. I have it in Nikon mount and it still waits to be used much more. Such a gem!

I had many Tokina APS-C 11-16mm, they all had infinity focus issues. Canon lenses for instance go past infinity focus, there's a margin of error, meaning you're sure to hit infinity focus. The Tokinas, they're right on the infinite or just before... They also have lots of chromatic aberrations which I can still see on your picture. Those problems with their lenses are a shame as I otherwise like their products.

@KnightsFan it's only being manufactured by them. Z-Cam did the reverse engineering, design and coding to have the lenses communicate with their camera bodies.

Been using the C70 the past few days and have to admit I wasn’t the biggest fan at first. It felt a little unwieldy to use, I’d have loved to have been able to swivel the handle a little as the joystick is in a tricky spot to reach sometimes. The dials are also a little oddly placed. Second day filming and it feels a lot more natural after I started to think of it more as a small cinema camera rather than a big mirrorless or DSLR. As always, love the internal NDs, like having false color and so many customizable buttons. The DPAF seemed snappier than the C200 but still not perfect and not something I would fully trust for some shots. 
Footage seems clean, not overly sharp but I haven’t really had time to play around with it properly yet. I’m still not entirely sure the price is justified, it seems a little high in Europe especially, but once it drops a little with cameras appearing on the used market I think it will be a lot more attractive. The BMPCC4K, and even the LUMIX S1, have really screwed with how I perceive what a camera is worth these days. There’s so much value to be had at lower price points, it’s really becoming more about convenience features and ergonomics.

Wow.

The above: Z 6 recorded in 10bitProRes 422 HQ using the Ninja V. Nikon N-Log LUT used for grading. DX Z 16-50mm lens.
 
Shot in DX mode with Nikon DX 16-80mm ED lens. and the FTZ adapter.

Wow.

If Apple was interested to have a pro camera business, they would buy RED. They didn't. 

I’ll let you guys see this. I had the chance to try out the C70 and A7SIII side by side on a very simple shoot. 
Using 4k100fps and 4k50fps. 
I have more interesting projects to show soon! 
 

I am indeed! I meant to thank bloggers (including Andrew specifically) for bringing the issue of overheating up so much. The pressure about the timer nonsense forced Canon to change the way the camera monitors temperatures, which is the reason the mod works at all.

I'm fine with Mac, I have no problems with it. I have a whole business ecosystem around it. All the apps I've bought are Mac. 
I've used FCP for 13 years. I'm happy with it and making platform changes isn't a priority whatsoever. 
I also don't like Windows OS. I get no pleasure using it. 
Sorry to disappoint you.