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Andrew Reid

Panasonic GH5 - all is revealed!

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No, you don’t put a grey card on the reflector. Hold it in front of the lens in the same light that is falling on your subject. Buy any inexpensive reflector, have one of the children hold it while you are shooting small groups or individuals. Shoot at dawn and dusk as much as possible. Avoid the noon sun. Shoot more close-ups of feet, hands, garments and food. Try not to close your lens down beyond f/5.6. Change your camera angle to avoid strong light behind your subjects. 

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs
29 minutes ago, jonpais said:

No, you don’t put a grey card on the reflector. Hold it in front of the lens in the same light that is falling on your subject. Buy any inexpensive reflector, have one of the children hold it while you are shooting small groups or individuals. Shoot at dawn and dusk as much as possible. Avoid the noon sun. Shoot more close-ups of feet, hands, garments and food. Try not to close your lens down beyond f/5.6. Change your camera angle to avoid strong light behind your subjects. 

 

A last question please. I have ND 8 filter. Do you suggest to leave it always on the lenses during the day?

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On 2/6/2018 at 1:11 AM, buggz said:


Any thoughts about the below?

A Different Approach to Making Your GH5/GH5S Footage Look More Cinematic

http://www.4kshooters.net/2018/02/05/a-different-approach-to-making-your-gh5-gh5s-footage-look-more-cinematic/

Just saw this video now and used the Channel Mixer settings he shows in Premiere (or After Effects). I like it. Another tool in the box!

Here are some comparisons. This was shot in natural light on the Daylight WB preset. Here, the redness of skin in Joos's settings isn't particularly evident to me.

VLOG:

5a7c6a149c8b5_01VLog.thumb.jpg.4f57c7a0523969c0bffc9e59ec49dab8.jpg

 

Add contrast:

5a7c6a1645cd6_02VLogwithcontrast.thumb.jpg.79560e2423b5c95f2bc90317d2c9f139.jpg

 

Add Channel Mixer (Joos settings):

5a7c6a18143ac_03VLogJoosChannelmixer.thumb.jpg.2a0788a7ef19e03c4bf62e980ef54ad8.jpg

 

Compare with Sage's GHA with matched contrast:

5a7c6a19adc00_04VLogSageGHA.thumb.jpg.a675edd2c0a3abc773630ac77b9fb527.jpg

 

Compare with my current Ektar look:

5a7c6a1b5107c_05VLogEktar.thumb.jpg.2da27ec66a89f89f5c778b0209235a94.jpg

 

EDIT: On second thoughts, some reds are just far too saturated with Joos's Channel Mixer settings. Look at the radioactive reds that it creates on the inner lip area in this next example.

Plain VLOG with contrast:

5a7c6f71047f5_07VLog.thumb.jpg.7c7bfdc06f8418351ba03bfb4976ce97.jpg

 

Add Channel Mixer:

5a7c6f7299857_08VLogChannelmixer.thumb.jpg.ff9e8285d62ce185b23dda3f23b56dc1.jpg

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Npw I'm very worried because I'm getting some strange problems. I hope it's a GH5 settings problem. I started making the first video editing with Edius 9 and I noticed that all the clips on the timeline have the initial part no audio tracks (less than half a second). There are no waves and you don't hear any sound (completely silent).Then as far as audio is concerned, I sometimes hear a crunching sound like it is due to an electric shock. and I also see it on the audio wave. I'm shooting in UHD at 59.94p and 150mps. What could be my problem? Do I have to be worried?

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Not only that missing audio on the early part but many other problems. I use the internat mic. On another forum a guy sent me a clip shot with his GH5 and there the same my problem. ON EVERY clip there a “crunching sound” one second or less than one second before the clip finish. On every clip there is this problem. But not only it. I have many “crunching sound” even in the central part of every clip. I'm very disappointed from GH5.

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I use always Kodi to watch my UHD videos shots with Sony AX100. But now I use GH5 and Kodi get problems to reach those UHD files. I configured the GH5 with UHD 59,94p 150Mbps. I use always Edius 9 and I get the file with the same steps that I have always made.
Now I'm looking for another program that replace Kodi. I love Kodi but it fell down. Unfotunately I can watch every UHD video shot with the previous videocamera but not with the new camera. Maybe Kodi get problems with high bitrates.
I have also to unistalled Kodi and installed it again on my Android Sony TV but I get always the same problem. Video is jerky. What a pity!
Now I'm asking all you a suggestion: in my hard drive I have many UHD videos. I cataloged them with the number 1, 2, 3, 4, etc. etc  and Kodi lets see all titles in a row on one page.
Do you know another software that lets see all the titles like Kodi, so that I can click on a title and watch it. I use the program ONLY to watch my UHD videos.
Thanks for your precious advice.

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7 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

Out of curiosity: do you like more a video documentary shot in 25p 10bit or 50p 8bit?

Apples to oranges.

 

If you go on wide shots where the sky as for instance will show banding or you'll apply radical grading or yet for green screen, without mention demanding motion where a higher bit rate can really help you out, go on 10-bit with the respective protection as far as a good codec concerns.

 

If you want to take your chances for a rather filmic slow motion @ post mainly:

50p in the PAL part of the universe as much as possible especially where not for the big screen when there is artificial light even though you may use the shutter in order to avoid flickering or you'll end your master there;

60p for the remainder.

Including both cases with stereoscopic aim to match a soap opera look by those who are used to the gaming world and its own perspective of motion based on the mantra of high frequency refresh rates, not actually the cinematic route at all but, at the same time not necessarily a 3D synonymous either, as a few people tend to convince themselves to believe as closer to the real side of the things... and by consequence, apparently to the truth itself. It is not. You shoot for an alternative range of reality instead (E ;-)

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Does anyone have the problem where the "display audio monitor" is greyed out and can't be shut off the display?  This is even happening in "A" photo mode and the audio meter is overlapping the bottom left where I have the histogram.

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13 minutes ago, jonpais said:

@sgreszcz did this happen after loading the camera settings I sent you?

I tried your settings, but I needed to change a lot of them so I've reset the settings for what I want for this week at the olympics  (C1 4k 50p, C2 1080p VFR).  After that I went back to set up my photography settings under 'A' and for some reason I cannot shut off the audio meter display - weird..

Your settings, Griffin Hammond's video about GH5 settings, and Caleb Pike's GH5 course helped me understand what is different above and beyond the GX80/G7/GX7/LX100 that I've had experience with.  I'm still not sure to shoot natural between my GH5/GX80...  I spent a few hours on the plane to Korea trying out the settings.  Strange that AF gets disabled for VFR > 100fps for some reason.  I don't use it exclusively, but it is nice to have S-AF+M focus to get the focus close, especially for fast moving things.

Stephen

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58 minutes ago, jonpais said:

Shoot a snapshot of your screen so we can see. Only other thing I can suggest is to reset camera to factory default and start over.

@sgreszcz you are aware that you can move the histogram wherever you want, aren’t you?

Hey Jon, I did some more googling and found that it was a combination of last having been in VFR mode and having limiter being off that made it stuck - even if I was in photo/‘A’  mode. Anyway, disabling vfr, turning limiter back on allowed me to turn off audio meters.

i knew I could move the histogram, but I’m always used to it there ;)

i think I have this camera mostly set up and now I just have to get used to all the extra buttons, joysticks, and dials compared with gx80.

Another strange thing is that ETC mode disappears at the higher VFR modes...

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