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Panasonic GH5 - all is revealed!


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"6K/24p Anamorphic Video Mode, while fun, is severely hampered by its 4:3 aspect ratio" UM! That's what an anamorphic mode is - 4:3 Someone let our dear friends at Cinema5D know.

Here are some 1080 JPEGS from a music video that I shot with the GH5 + SLR Magic anamorphic primes.  

A couple of quick screengrabs from a recent Jazz concert I shot. I must say I was super impressed with the GH5 on this one - not only it recorded for 1h30m straight with no issues but it did so on one

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Hi, I have GH5 from little time. I will use it in semiautomatic mode to make 4K videos. I'd like tot know if it better to choose "A" or "S" mode. I will use the GH5 always outside where there is a lot of light (in summer). In your opinion is it better "A" or "S" mode option to get a better video quality? Thanks.

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6 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

Hi, I have GH5 from little time. I will use it in semiautomatic mode to make 4K videos. I'd like tot know if it better to choose "A" or "S" mode. I will use the GH5 always outside where there is a lot of light (in summer). In your opinion is it better "A" or "S" mode option to get a better video quality? Thanks.

You would want it in Aperture mode. You want to try and stay with the 180 degree shutter rule. So you don't want to be changing shutter speeds doing video. Now in Photo mode that would be acceptable.

 

 

Speaking of Lenses. How about $80,000.00 worth of them.

LoMO Anamorphic..jpg

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On 6/25/2018 at 3:09 AM, FoxAdriano said:

But if I shoot in 4K 50p, do you suggest  1/100 and the aperture between around 5.6-11. Is it ok? What do you think to choose Automatic ASA?

Yeah I use auto ASA, ISO at times if you want to keep the same Aperture you Have to adjust the ISO, only thing left other than maybe + or - on the exposure wheel, and that is the same on paper as changing Aperture. But if you are in a Log, Cine 5 setting you can't change ISO, it will be stuck there. I think is the same on theGH5. Never owned one so not sure about that fact on the GH5. On my Sony a7s if I use Slog 2 it is stuck at ISO 3200 like it or not! I have to use ND filters to overcome that in daylight. At night trying to get extended DR is sometimes a waste of time if it is so dark there really isn't a wide DR to even shoot. So Log, Cine's might be more problem than they are worth in those situations. Now if you light a lot of stuff, like a person should, good luck with that happening on average, sure then it works.

ASA is a dead word for film, digital cameras for years. It is ISO now, nothing else .

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Sorry to be contradictory here, but I believe you want to use Shutter Priority to maintain the 180 degree shutter rule. This means you will set the shutter speed to double your frame rate (for the GH5 just use Shutter Angle instead of shutter speed so you don’t have to ever change it if you change frame rates) and then the camera will adjust the aperture and ISO accordingly to have 0 exposure. If you want to over or under expose, you can adjust exposure compensation from +/- 0 based on your needs (+1.7/2 stops for sLog2, etc)

With some cameras (I don’t know if the GH5 is capable of this) you can set a maximum ISO so you won’t introduce noise due to the camera choosing to go too high with your ISO.

You can also use ND filters to trick your camera to open the aperture if you want to have shallow depth of field.

In a lot of instances shutter priority mode can work great for keeping an even exposure but in some instances, with certain picture profiles where you need to keep your exposure at a certain level to mimic the log curve, I find it’s easier to use manual mode and a variable ND or a lens with a clickless aperture with the aid of the in camera meter, zebras and waveform monitor. 

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15 hours ago, mercer said:

Sorry to be contradictory here, but I believe you want to use Shutter Priority to maintain the 180 degree shutter rule. This means you will set the shutter speed to double your frame rate (for the GH5 just use Shutter Angle instead of shutter speed so you don’t have to ever change it if you change frame rates) and then the camera will adjust the aperture and ISO accordingly to have 0 exposure. If you want to over or under expose, you can adjust exposure compensation from +/- 0 based on your needs (+1.7/2 stops for sLog2, etc)

With some cameras (I don’t know if the GH5 is capable of this) you can set a maximum ISO so you won’t introduce noise due to the camera choosing to go too high with your ISO.

Manual mode and you can set auto iso range, that's probably the best. I wouldn't use S for video as diffraction can wreck a shot while non-180 degrees are ok. 

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10 hours ago, Orangenz said:

Manual mode and you can set auto iso range, that's probably the best. I wouldn't use S for video as diffraction can wreck a shot while non-180 degrees are ok. 

I’d rather have the 180, personally. But I’ve only used Shutter Priority once or twice outdoors with a variable ND, so I was able to trick the camera into opening up the aperture. It worked well on both the RX10ii and the FZ2500. But Auto ISO range in manual mode would be my choice, in most instances, if I needed a semi-auto mode.

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Since this is a GH5 forum, I'd like to ask a question after other questions I asked here. If I want to make a good 4K video in a sunny day, which is the ideal exposure shooting 25p and 50p? I mean: are f4 and 1/50 shooting 25p and f4 and 1/100 shooting 50p the ideal exposures? Thanks

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I make an example:

Some days ago I made some tests with my GH5 and I shot also with f10 but an expert friend of mine noticed a loss of quality of the image. He told me maybe I got a bad image because I used f/10 and on m4/3 and it is a bit too much.

He told me that on m4/3 the f/10 is equivalent to having f/20 on FF (x2)
He added "on my little LX100 I do not go over f / 5.6 to get the max quality".
So I don't want the loss of sharpness due to too closed diaphragms that gives diffraction. For this reason I'm asking what if the best otion about iris for a m4/3 camera.

Thanks

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11 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

I make an example:

Some days ago I made some tests with my GH5 and I shot also with f10 but an expert friend of mine noticed a loss of quality of the image. He told me maybe I got a bad image because I used f/10 and on m4/3 and it is a bit too much.

He told me that on m4/3 the f/10 is equivalent to having f/20 on FF (x2)
He added "on my little LX100 I do not go over f / 5.6 to get the max quality".
So I don't want the loss of sharpness due to too closed diaphragms that gives diffraction. For this reason I'm asking what if the best otion about iris for a m4/3 camera.

Thanks

There IS a reason people buy faster lenses.

https://***URL removed***/forums/thread/4213053

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12 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

I make an example:

Some days ago I made some tests with my GH5 and I shot also with f10 but an expert friend of mine noticed a loss of quality of the image. He told me maybe I got a bad image because I used f/10 and on m4/3 and it is a bit too much.

He told me that on m4/3 the f/10 is equivalent to having f/20 on FF (x2)
He added "on my little LX100 I do not go over f / 5.6 to get the max quality".
So I don't want the loss of sharpness due to too closed diaphragms that gives diffraction. For this reason I'm asking what if the best otion about iris for a m4/3 camera.

Thanks

Are you confusing exposure compensation for aperture? Because there are factors that go into choosing the correct aperture for an accurate exposure... light, shutter speed, ISO, picture profile...

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1 hour ago, mercer said:

Are you confusing exposure compensation for aperture? Because there are factors that go into choosing the correct aperture for an accurate exposure... light, shutter speed, ISO, picture profile...

Sure, I agree and I'm sorry my poor english.

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4 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

If you should choose between the two options, would you shoot "like 709" or "Standard"?

after more than a year of professional work on GH5, I use 90% time "like 709" 0,-5,-5,-2,0  ,knee manual point 80, Slope 99 ,and 10% time V-LOG, but "like709" has for me, the best skin tone.  Luminance level 16-235,  master pedestal +10 

This is my best setting for speed post production.

V-LOG - is always lengthy post production with uncertain outcome, more noise, more work :-)

 

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