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Phil A

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Phil A last won the day on March 10 2017

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About Phil A

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    Frequent member
  • Birthday 06/20/1985

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  • My cameras and kit
    Panasonic GH5 & GX85

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  1. The best thing about this camera is that maybe it makes the used market for Mark III cameras more attractive 😉
  2. Phil A

    Lenses

    Yes, Samyang is also sold by resellers as Rokinon, Bower and Walimex.
  3. But if you're ordering them into the EU, you'll pay VAT and the end price is more or less the same. I'm having my eyes on how the TechArt adapter story develops, especially the stacking of the Z-to-E + E-to-M mount adapters.
  4. Phil A

    Lenses

    Because I want a camera that’s ideally smaller/lighter than my GH5 for every day carry when I commute. The S1 is the one camera that’s actually even bigger and heavier (Plus it’s currently 1000 $ more expensive than a Z6 here) 😉
  5. Phil A

    Lenses

    Seeing how y'all are shooting a lot of manual focus lenses, how do the different camera systems with 135/FF sensor compare when it comes to their EVF for manual focusing M-mount lenses? I'm considering Sony A7, A7R, A7 II, A7R II, Nikon Z6 or - very slim maybe - A7 III, looking for a camera that is as small+light (and ideally cheap, as it's not my main system) as possible to shoot M mount lenses, purely for photography (35/40/50/75mm lenses for portraits, etc., looking for feel&look, not technical perfection). I read that the A7R has some aliasing in the EVF that coincidentally actually helps see when stuff is in focus (comparable to the over-sharpening focus help in the SmallHD field monitors). EDIT: Unrelated, I can absolutely second the discussed Sigma 30mm DC HSM Art lens. With a focal reducer it's the perfect normal lens on m43 sensors and I love the rendering it gives. Pity there are so few APS-H cameras left besides the odd Sigma and some old EOS 1D.
  6. Phil A

    Sigma FP

    It's a video/gif where only a very small part of the image moves and the rest is perfectly static. It's popular for social media. Here are some examples: http://cinemagraphs.com/ EDIT: Also, here's a link to the press release as PDF https://www.sigma-foto.de/fileadmin/relaunch/Pressetexte/SIGMA_fp/SIGMA_PR_EN_fp_1907.pdf
  7. Phil A

    Sigma FP

    I read somewhere that powering via USB is not possible, you can only charge via USB when the FP is turned off. But it's obvious there will be dummy batteries available. I like that Sigma say they are communicating the information about the camera to 3rd parties to make accessories, etc. Recording via USB3 was mentioned too and the video shows it. Would be not too impractical to directly photograph to a Samsung T5 if the camera allows setting specific target folders, that way you can skip SD card handling. This has the potential to be the spiritual successor to the BMMCC if the price is right, might sell a lot more numbers than the Z-Cam E2.
  8. Phil A

    Sigma FP

    Yes, it was shown quite a bit and the fact that it doesn't have a mechanical shutter means it's probably not so great for some types of photography. Now that I stopped hyperventilating, I'm curious what sensor it uses. How fast will the read out be? How much rolling shutter? How good the auto focus? Here some more sources for information: https://www.cinema5d.com/sigma-fp-full-frame-pocketsized-camera-dedicated-cine-mode/ https://www.newsshooter.com/2019/07/11/sigma-fp-a-pocketable-full-frame-cine-stills-hybrid/ I hope Sigma will release more information soon.
  9. Phil A

    Sigma FP

    I thought the same. But you can always use a screen loupe like shown in their concept video. I'm very intrigued. I want this. Now! Take.My.Money.
  10. Phil A

    S1 Anyone?

    The adapter is not going to happen unless you can fit it into 0.75mm of space because that's the difference in flange distance for L to mFT mount. So it will probably still be more attractive to go with native lenses or a focal reducer and a DSLR lens. An EF focal reducer with electrical contacts (for AF, aperture, IS, EXIF, etc.) and integrated ND, now that would probably be a product that's equal to printing money if it could be optically done.
  11. I have a iPad Pro 9.7" and had completely forgotten one fact: it only has USB 2. So the new OS is borderline useless because it's still a nightmare to get the files onto the iPad from a SD card. Ugh! And the trade-in value if I give it back to Apple and buy a new one is a whopping 180 € max. So I guess we stay with using it for internet surfing, etc
  12. Digitec.ch in Switzerland but the sale is limited to 35 bundles.
  13. That adapter really makes me consider the Z6 even more, saw some great tests on YouTube. A store close by has a sale for Z6 + 24-70 f4 lens + Nikon F adapter + 64 GB XQD card for 1949$ and that’s silly cheap. I‘d sell my GH5 + Oly 12–40 for it and seeing how I lately do 90% pictures and 10% videos, I guess that would be a good deal.
  14. I only downloaded it yesterday night so I didn't really get to play yet but I'm already happy that the app icons got smaller and more of them fit into the dock. iOS on the iPad always seemed really clunky because it didn't make any use of the bigger screen. I hope that now with the new iPad OS we also finally get some upgraded/overhauled iOS apps for stuff that was bad like Instagram, etc.
  15. I love shooting film, it's just the whole part between shooting it and having the result that annoys me. Personally, I would only advice someone to shoot film if he actually develops himself or is willing to go to a small, good (usually expensive) lab. I have permanently changing assortments of analog cameras because I enjoy shooting film. I am/was shooting Canon EOS 3, Mamya 645 1000s, Rolleiflex 3.5f and Kodak Retina IIC. I like how film looks and I wish there was an easy way to have digital pictures look exactly as smooth and organic without tinkering 1h in Photoshop to get 90% there. But it has mainly to do with the lens and what film stock you use. When I shoot the EOS 3 (I have 2 of them so I can shoot different films in parallel, e.g. B/W+Color or ASA100 + ASA800) it has nothing to do with "slowing down, getting into the details" and what people like to use as a mantra for analog photography. It's just like shooting a EOS 5D but without chimping, especially when shooting e.g. Kodak Portra 400. With the Rolleiflex/Mamiya everything is slow and deliberate but it's also sometimes annoying because when you didn't shoot with a waist level finder for a while your brain will forget that what you see is mirrored so composing the picture takes forever. In general I like both types of analog shooting. What I hate, hate, hate about film photography comes now after shooting. I don't develop myself so where do you give the film? If I give it to the drugstore for C41 development it's cheap but the quality is hit or miss. They've scratched multiple films before, one got completely lost and once I had fingerprints on the negatives. At our local drugstore it's mandatory to either get a CD with scans (oversharpened, oversatured, 1 Megapixel) or prints (so you take the cheapest and throw them away) but that may have changed. So that's what I typically do. Alternatively I can give it to a specialist lab here for enthusiast hobbyists but they will charge enthusiast prices (10$ per roll 135/120 film for standard C41 development). And what do you do then with the negatives? I digitalize by photographing them with a macro lens and a DSLR/mirrorless camera. As was mentioned before, a good scanner is super expensive and a lot of tinkering to get perfect results with. Ideally you get it done professionally, but the good lab mentioned before will charge between 5 and 15 $ for a single scanned frame in high resolution with basic scratch/dust removal, depending on the format (1-5$ low res). So buying + developing a roll 120 Tri-X for example shot through a 6x6 camera plus the cheaper scans will cost you for the 12 pictures a total of 85 $. That's not worth it to me to be honest because either I get good quality and it's expensive or I have to do everything myself which is just time I can't always spare in parallel to my career and other hobbies. So for me usually back to digital it is after shooting 1 or 2 rolls a year (chances are you'd anyway want to post-process the scanned negatives). To echo some others, I would absolutely not sink Hasselblad/Leica kind of money into an analog camera before not evaluating for 6 to 12 months how much someone likes shooting analog with all that belongs to it. I feel like it gets romanticized way too much nowadays. A lot of people how grew up or lived shooting analog are more than happy to leave it in the past. /rant over
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