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Andrew Reid

Panasonic GH5 - all is revealed!

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There was an interesting thread today in a GH5 Facebook group regarding the autofocus that will be of interest to many people here. This guy suggests in the video below that the autofocus can be dramatically improved by changing the shutter angle. He then goes on to provide proof with an adapted lens.

In the Facebook group, several members have been confirming the results with both adapted and native lenses.

Before you get too excited, in the video he says it only works for 25p or 30p, and no shutter angle adjustments help for 24p for whatever reason.

If you can live with a 150 degree shutter and need your AF to track for something. This video is worth having a look at.

 

EDIT - just wanted to add the relevant reasoning from the video description:

 

When you think about it it's obvious really, your camera is running at a give frequency say 60Htz for NTSC, if your shooting at 30p and the shutter is open for half that time ie 180 Deg's the camera runs a cycle to correct focus ie, acquire image, process, correct , if the total time this takes is greater than 1/60 Htz (which it will be as that's the time taken to acquire) then the camera will wait to start the cycle again, the shorter acquire time means the camera doesn't have to wait, it can run the process again! Hence twice the AF performance.

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19 hours ago, jonpais said:

Yes - do not follow his advice.

If you shoot HLG for rec709 delivery, you’d be better off using the Leeming LUT. 

Joo’s skin tones look like lobsters on my iPhone. Anyway, saying any LUT can magically transform drab footage into something cinematic is misleading. Lighting is number one. 🤓

Jon, but he has some interesting videos about tweaking color on his channel. Now, back to lenses. Oh, wrong thread I got into here:)

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I agree his videos are too red on my calibrated NEC PA272W.
I also agree there is no magic bullet solution, LUTS.

I still shoot in HLG 6K anamorphic mode, 
and edit in Resolve Studio via color settings I saw posted at dvxuser forum:

"Yes, HLG is available with 6K anamorphic mode.
In another note, besides Paul's excellent HLG LUT, you can also use HLG natively with Resolve 14 for Rec 709 delivery:
- In Project Settings, under Color Management, Change to Davinci Color Managed
- Under Color Management select:
-- Rec 2020 HLG ARIB STD-B67 for Input Color Space
-- Rec 2020 HLG ARIB STD-B67 for Timeline Color Space
-- Rec 709 HLG ARIB STD-B67 for Output Color Space
In this way I am getting quite similar results - I haven't compared color accuracy, etc, but in general both look georgeous.
Paul's LUT has the advantage that it can be used when the project is not color managed in this way, so you can mix and match footage"

 

 

22 hours ago, jonpais said:

Yes - do not follow his advice.

If you shoot HLG for rec709 delivery, you’d be better off using the Leeming LUT. 

Joo’s skin tones look like lobsters on my iPhone. Anyway, saying any LUT can magically transform drab footage into something cinematic is misleading. Lighting is number one. 🤓

 

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Two questions please, I need to understand better since I've always used only videocameras for many years. Is it better to film at 400 ISO or put 200 ISO on a full sun day in the African sun?

In the GH5 there are 2 buttons: in the instructions, a button called 'shutter button' and the other 'video button' (I don't have english manual). Can you tell me the difference? I make only videos with my GH5  and I have always used the button 'shutter button' because it is much more comfortable. The other one is terribly uncomfortable. In other words, I use the "shutter button" to shoot. It is a lot more comfortable, also because it sets focus before shooting when I click half button.
I would be curious to know if I have done everything wrong until today. ;)
I attach the image. The buttons in question are numbers 11 and 9. Thanks

Lumix GH5.JPG

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45 minutes ago, FoxAdriano said:

Two questions please, I need to understand better since I've always used only videocameras for many years. Is it better to film at 400 ISO or put 200 ISO on a full sun day in the African sun?

In the GH5 there are 2 buttons: in the instructions, a button called 'shutter button' and the other 'video button' (I don't have english manual). Can you tell me the difference? I make only videos with my GH5  and I have always used the button 'shutter button' because it is much more comfortable. The other one is terribly uncomfortable. In other words, I use the "shutter button" to shoot. It is a lot more comfortable, also because it sets focus before shooting when I click half button.
I would be curious to know if I have done everything wrong until today. ;)
I attach the image. The buttons in question are numbers 11 and 9. Thanks

Lumix GH5.JPG

The reason there is a dedicated video button is so that when you're in any one of the stills modes (M, S, A, P, iA), you can quickly get a video clip by pushing that button without having to change to Creative Movie Mode (or whatever they call the video mode on the dial).

When you're in movie mode, the shutter button which is normally reserved for stills also can be used to start video recording. Note that if you set your C1, C2, or C3 settings while in movie mode, the shutter will start video recording in those settings as well, which is really handy.

Regarding ISO, I have been under the impression that 400 is the base ISO for all video modes on the GH5. So shooting in 200 would lower your dynamic range slightly. However, recently I saw some people contesting in a Facebook group that the base ISO is only 400 in HLG and VLOG-L, and that in all other modes it's 200. The documentation from Panasonic appears to support this, but it goes against what their reps have been saying in videos since release. Relevant portion below:

Still image: Auto / Intelligent ISO / 100 (Extended) / 200 / 400 / 800 / 1600 / 3200 / 6400 / 12800 / 25600 (Changeable to 1/3 EV step)/Creative Video Mode: Auto / 100 (Extended) / 200 / 400 / 800 / 1600 / 3200 / 6400 / 12800 (Changeable to 1/3 EV step)

https://www.panasonic.com/uk/consumer/cameras-camcorders/lumix-g-compact-system-cameras/dc-gh5l.specs.html

 

Hopefully someone smarter than me can come in and clear it up definitively.

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I have my lower limit currently set at 400 because I'm still not sure that 200 is the base ISO in the linear picture profiles. Upper limit is usually 3200 for me, but I'm not doing client work so don't worry too much about the noise. You should do some test shooting to determine what an acceptable upper limit is for your use.

You will still have to adjust the ISO manually if you don't put it on auto ISO. If you put it on auto, it will stay within the range you set.

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Thanks for your news. I find them very useful.

Another question please: I never made manual white balance with the G5. I'd like to buy this gray card:
https://www.amazon.it/Kaavie-bilanciamento-impermeabile-portatile-staccabile/dp/B00L1R0B1O/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1518039796&sr=8-15&keywords=cartoncino+bilanciamento+del+bianco
I will use it in my trips in Africa but it seems really a small size.  Do I have to keep it with my hand or can I put it on the ground? How can I use it if I'm always alone? Thank you.

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@FoxAdriano It’s a compromise. If the card’s small, you’re more likely to carry it with you and take it out when you need it. If it’s too large, you’ll need to carry it in your backpack and you’re less likely to want to bother with it. A small card is pretty useless with wide primes, but since you use zoom lenses, the small size shouldn’t matter. Just zoom in on the card, custom wb, then zoom out again. You can place the card anywhere you like however - it will reflect light off of colored objects, making your readings inaccurate. The ground may not be such a great idea after all. Maybe your subject can hold the card?

Edit: I just remembered that your PL changes aperture when zooming, but that shouldn’t affect white balance. Just annoying is all.

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@FoxAdriano I just finished watching a few of your documentaries - very good work! However, I notice that most of your shots are either in harsh midday light or in the pitch black interiors of huts at night. Is there no activity in the early morning hours or in the couple of hours before sunset? Also, I would definitely consider purchasing a strong ND filter for shallower depth of field. In a number of shots where the subject is not facing the light and the background is overpoweringly bright, a small reflector would enable you to throw more light in their faces while at the same time reducing the intensity of the background, like so:321A33D7-38AE-4FA1-A3B0-54534ADC5987.png

09D0AFE7-90BE-428A-858F-E9F4786D563A.png

If you continue shooting with relatively slow zooms at tiny apertures with default sharpening, your videos will never look much better than those shot with a camcorder and your purchase of the GH5 will have been for nought. I would recommend investing in a couple of outstanding fast primes. Ditto for setting the camera on shutter priority and AF and allowing the camera to think for you.

I realize this takes more time and effort, but the results will pay off in the end. You could also increase the number of subscribers to your YouTube channel with English subtitles.

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I thank you a lot for your precious suggestions.

I need to be more precise on the description.
I am a lonely traveller and nobody can help me to make the WB. I make only UHD videos with GH5 and Leica 12-60, I don't make photos. I usually reach remote areas and I make shots about indigenous peoples in their villages. I film their daily life. I usually shoot in the village (outside) but inside their huts too without electricity. All my places have usually the red ground like fire. If I shot with a videocamera (Sony AX100) in automatic automatic WB, it goes crazy and looks drunk. All the clips all have bad dominants and the chromatism isn't good.
I only make videos, I has always used videocameras and now I'd like to use GH5. I will travel with it for the first time. Do you think its automatic WB works better than my Sony AX100 videocamera?
Anyway I'm thinking also of ExpoDisc Professional White Balance Filter. What is your thought please? Your pics are perfect. ;)

PS: I think I will shoot in "Natural mode" but with contrast -2 and definition -2 and manage the colors of the clips in post production.

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AWB is probably okay if you persist in shooting in direct harsh sunlight. Setting Kelvin manually to 5500K would give better results. ExpoDisc is probably fine too. But why don’t you take Joseph Moore’s (Joe12south) suggestion and shoot Cinelike D? It has more dynamic range than natural. Sharpening needs to be lowered to -5, not -2. Noise reduction must also be lowered to -5. Unless you prefer oversharpened, overprocessed video.

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Maybe I said and I say stupidities because I don't know well the mechanism of the camera. I'm using a camera for the first time. I'm sorry for it.

If you  are telling me to set Kelvin manually to 5500K, maybe I can choose the preset of daylight. It will be easier for me.

I'd like but I can't shoot Cinelike D mode because I setted my GH5 on 4K 59,94p 150mbp. For this reason the writing Cinelike D is disappeared. I like to understand: why to shoot in Cinelike D mode if it has more dynamic range than natural?

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Preset is better than AWB.

7931A031-A9FF-4F4D-A9A0-AD4CC1C65C1A.jpeg

Just have a member of the community hold the reflector. Anyone can do it. Folded up, it takes up no space in your backpack. Believe me, they will have fun helping you. With an ND filter on your camera, your shots will turn out much better. And if it doesn’t work out, no problem. A relector only costs $10.00 at most.

0907E3F5-977A-45F9-B517-7619B8E7C625.jpeg

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A reflector??? Where will I make the manual WB? Maybe can I do it on the riflector? I think you don't understand my work, I'm sorry. Sometimes I have to walk for some hours in the bush or in the rainforest. I often am in the village to rec. their daily life but in . But the problem is in the village I go in many places and I cant take with me always the reflector ot a big gray card. What is your opinion about ExpoDisc? Did you never use it?

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a reflector folds up and is stored in a small pouch. It weighs nothing and takes up little space. I’ve never used ExpoDisc. I know you want better image quality than the Sony: but shooting in harsh sunlight at small apertures with no ND filter; leaving in camera sharpening set on high; without even using something as small and affordable as a hot shoe mounted LED light for your nighttime interior shots; and putting everything on automatic is going to result in camcorder footage.

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noooo, you are right. But I already have ND 8 filter and a light for the night. Can you tell me if I can make the manual WB using the reflector like a gray card? I don't understand it. Can you suggest a precise brand of that reflector please?

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