webrunner5

Couldn't agree more, I still reckon the lateral ball follow in golf is one of the hardest shots in television to pull off properly. Top notch freelance cameramen in sport are always in high demand.

Well I must admit that it got somewhat better the further it went but WAY to much camera movement. Try a Monopod at the least. Just Slow down a Lot on camera movements. But I like how you have come on here and hung it out as they say LoL!
You picked one of the hardest types of content to shoot, sports. It Ain't easy as you can tell. But some of it you did was not that bad. It is very hard not to get excited at those type of events, especially if they are friends of yours! I think you could edit this down to about a 90 second video and it might come off pretty good if you really think it out.

You really don't need long zooms when doing Video unless you are going to shoot Lions in Africa! Panasonic, Olympus cameras have a 2x crop factor on the lens you use. You Have to go really wide to use one well for video. And manual focus usually works better than auto most of the time. Low light is MFT weakness, so you need fast lenses to make them work. That is why most use a Speed Booster to help with that.
There is Nothing really wrong with a GH4. Tons of great stuff have been made on them, and will continue to be made on them. But right now a ton of new stuff is coming out fast from every manufacture now that video has "caught on" LoL. Just having the latest and greatest really doesn't make anyone a great filmmaker, skill does that, and skill can be used on just about any camera made in this day and age to produce an acclaimed film. It is a fun hobby, an expensive one, but well worth it. You might even make a living doing it! Best advise is to is to shoot, shoot, shoot, and edit, edit, edit.

You really don't need long zooms when doing Video unless you are going to shoot Lions in Africa! Panasonic, Olympus cameras have a 2x crop factor on the lens you use. You Have to go really wide to use one well for video. And manual focus usually works better than auto most of the time. Low light is MFT weakness, so you need fast lenses to make them work. That is why most use a Speed Booster to help with that.
There is Nothing really wrong with a GH4. Tons of great stuff have been made on them, and will continue to be made on them. But right now a ton of new stuff is coming out fast from every manufacture now that video has "caught on" LoL. Just having the latest and greatest really doesn't make anyone a great filmmaker, skill does that, and skill can be used on just about any camera made in this day and age to produce an acclaimed film. It is a fun hobby, an expensive one, but well worth it. You might even make a living doing it! Best advise is to is to shoot, shoot, shoot, and edit, edit, edit.

You really don't need long zooms when doing Video unless you are going to shoot Lions in Africa! Panasonic, Olympus cameras have a 2x crop factor on the lens you use. You Have to go really wide to use one well for video. And manual focus usually works better than auto most of the time. Low light is MFT weakness, so you need fast lenses to make them work. That is why most use a Speed Booster to help with that.
There is Nothing really wrong with a GH4. Tons of great stuff have been made on them, and will continue to be made on them. But right now a ton of new stuff is coming out fast from every manufacture now that video has "caught on" LoL. Just having the latest and greatest really doesn't make anyone a great filmmaker, skill does that, and skill can be used on just about any camera made in this day and age to produce an acclaimed film. It is a fun hobby, an expensive one, but well worth it. You might even make a living doing it! Best advise is to is to shoot, shoot, shoot, and edit, edit, edit.

I just bought a Sony PXW-X70 as my main video camera.  DSLRs become too bulky and unwieldy for flexible video work.  I've tried for a long time to make them work, can't do it.  Without moving my hands I now have instance access to record, focus peaking, iris, shutter, gain (ISO), AF/MF, zoom.  Better audio controls.  Aggressive image stabilization if I need it.  10-bit CODEC.  So whatever you get for a main cam, I recommend a C100 or something like it.  You can use your other cameras on tripods for long-shots, or other POVs.  I too, love a great image (especially RAW-based video), but any image out of focus, with shakes, or at a bad angle, or with bad audio is unusable.  In short, what worked for me having fun, standing around, with my DSLR or mirror-less, didn't work when I needed move around.

Actually it's the opposite. The c100 was whitebalanced with a card whilst the GX7 I just tweaked one of the presets. The c100 has the most accurate colour but not necessarily the most pleasing. Strangely, the LUTs I made to make Panasonic colours look more like Canon colours works very well on the C100 footage. 

Or even a Panasonic G7 is a great option until we see what the GH5 brings. The GH4 would have to be $750.00 or less before I would buy one now. They are a great camera no doubt. 
You really need an even wider lens than a 24-70mm when you figure in a 2x crop with MFT and it is even higher than that with the GH4 using 4K. Like a 2.3x crop factor. That ends up at 55mm on the wide side! Not terrible but..

Musings on the future :  The idea of grabbing stills from a video stream  occurred to me back in 2005  when I was shooting with  my Nikon D70 and my Sony HrV1U HD  camcorder.. process I would the 1920 X1080 in after effects and loving what I got despite interlace. I could grab that instant in time @ 30fps.   Then I knew it was a matter of time.  And I still believe that.  Any one that does not has not seen  70 MM positives from the great movies knows that they are perfect moving images .  But then again I remember recording movies onto VHS tape in the early 80's because I knew that one day frame grabs would be possible.   I also at that time only licensed my video for "helically scanned  magnetic media" back in 1987,   knowing that there was something else coming down the pike in 10 years.  I moved to Betacam SP asap and I am glad I did because using decent cameras and Beta Sp recording meant that with the terrenex processor from BM,  I could scale up and reformat  the aspect ratio ( yes with a little distortion) of those videos and people today assume they were shot in HD when viewed on the web  and computers.    They look GREAT! 
Actually, 4k does make 1080P look better.  I can see that by looking at 4K video on youtube  on 1080 P tv's  .   So I for one, cheerfully await the  coming of our 8K overlords .
Interestingly, MY Vizio 43 inch "UHD" TV can display a resolution of 7680 when pushed by my mid 2014 Macbook pro and using SwitchResX ,  the resolution shows up in the options  ( the native display on the MBPro can be pushed to 3840 x 2400).   tThe curser almost vanishes to a pinhead,  but El Capitan's desktop takes on an  almost 3D quality so much so that I had to touch the screen to see if the apparent texture of the cliff  face was really there.    And this is not official 8K.   Noticing commercial cinema lately,  it is usually beautifully sharp and colourful, with exquisite detail ,     ie Tarantino's 70 mm  release and every other commercial theatre release today and for the past 20 years.  The only place that I see faded and "film like" is the efforts of those using DSLR's , who marveling at a "look" that, whilst nice.. is not necessarily "cinematic"  ( whatever that is supposed to be )   seem to ignore that fact of what is actually playing in the cinemas"   I love those rich images and wish that I can portray that dynamic range, detail and colour.  The A7sII is not bad in that respect.   The low light flexibility is amazing ,  and I am shooting 4K with it ( and grabbing promotional stills)  for the  same reason why  I spent 14k on a BVW50 in 1987... the future...

Same question here!
Buying a GH4 right now does not make much sense unless you get it really cheap. 
In my opinion the quality of the GX85 and G85 already surpassed the quality of the GH4. 
I would either wait till late spring/summer for the GH5 or buy a G(X) 85 right now.
 

The opposite of Canon, you want to expose the image as much as possible before you clip the highlights. In my experience you HAVE to lower dark areas. Never raise them or you will get noise. 1600 has a large amount of fixed pattern noise. The URSA has a lot of space to play with the highlights, very little for shadows.

Hey guys. Wanted to share a recent project I directed for a company here in Nashville called Ramsey Solutions. They teach people how to handle their money and get out of debt. We did a series of videos for their personalities for Christmas campaigns. Below are some BTS shots and screen grabs from the shoot. 
 
Here is a link to the peice:
Password: 1234
We shot on the Arri Amira and used Cooke S4i primes. I graded the project with Color Finale in FCPX. The green screen stuff was poorly shot and we used a C100 so the shots of Rachel are pretty muddy. We had a pretty minor budget but the project turned out pretty cool! LMK what you think and if you have any questions. And yes I was rocking a dirty stache at the time  

Cool Beans. Grats. Good thing it was not too windy that day!

Judging by the DPreview comparison tool, IQ with the EM1.2 is no better than the the rest of the current m43 world. Unless the GH5 has an entirely new sensor, it will be virtually identical to what we're seeing from the G/GX80/85's. Olympus' claims of a 1-stop improvement are clearly bunk.

The magic word you are looking for is PDAF - a7SII only has CDAF

well the a7sii isn't known to be very good at af even with native lenses is it? I think the mc-11 only works good with a7ii, a7rii and 16300

The Metabones Speedbooster XL is dope! I shoot with the G7, the XL Canon mount and Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 and the results are killer for what I need. Example...
 

A proper comparison would be:
A7SII vs A6300 + Speedbooster, the lens staying the same (you get the same FOV and DOF). The price difference is much less dramatic, but still not small. And A7SII has IS with any lens.

My list would be shorter. I'd be like... try:
1. selling your A6300
There's just no way I'm going to put up with a camera that gives me such hassle, even if it shits rainbows.
I'd rather use a G7 and just deal with it.
Respect if you go above and beyond to make it work for you with fans 'n schtuff though.

Love the info you're sharing, but minor math correction. The G7's 4K crop factor is actually 2.2-- slightly improved over the GH4. With the SBXL providing a .64x reduction, that puts your final crop factor at a healthy 1.408x. That's almost the exact size of spherical s35. Pretty swanky. 

If Panasomic pushes the boundaries with the GH5, it's because they have no other choice but to. They relinquished their #3 spot in mirrorless market share to Canon last year. They need to either be bold, or make microwaves. 

Sound either makes video or kills it . $128 add to a $6K cam seems like a bargain ...
I have a Rode NTG 3 and an AKG 414XLS both driven well with the Device. 414 XL has 5 patterns easily selected.
 
Bob

I have a Mk II and I did some extensive tests with external ProRes recorder. There is tiny bit of improvement but for me it was not nearly worth the upgrade in file sizes. If I were shooting a 30 second spot that was going to be on television I'd probably use it.
Check out what this guy has been doing with the Mark II. Great spots!

Yeah you want to avoid like the plague any of the studio versions that BMD sells, unless....   well, you want to set up a studio! ;-) Then it is going to be just great for that purpose. 

I try to shoot old style to keep a certain look through the whole product.
That is, full Manual control with 180º shutter at 24fps. Aperture is cemented at F8. And yes, I really like deep DOF.
For me, only ISO is variable. I don't mind a grainy shot. But if I'm indoors, I'll ad some light myself or move my subject to available light.
I've found that keeping variables fixed, save for ISO, saves a lot of time in the field. 
(Setting with APS-C sized cameras. Could change with other sensors)