NX1user

I've had good luck with: https://luts.iwltbap.com
I just finished this doc and it's all NX1 with LUTS from the above.
 
 

I've had good luck with: https://luts.iwltbap.com
I just finished this doc and it's all NX1 with LUTS from the above.
 
 

I've had good luck with: https://luts.iwltbap.com
I just finished this doc and it's all NX1 with LUTS from the above.
 
 

My first Shooting forum post! 
 
It's all Samsung NX1 (except for a couple of  drone shots) with the Kinoseed bitrate hack (180mbs), using Andrew's Gamma DR profile. Lenses: Samsung 16-50 S, Rokinon 12mm and 85mm, plus some lensbaby. I used a couple LUTS by luts.iwltbap.com and FilmConvert in post. Filmed in 4K converted to ProRes for editing in Premiere. Yes, I know Premiere supports H.265, but I've had nothing but problems with H.265 files since the last update. Exported to 1080.

What's it about? 
What do you call a ghost town that still has people living there? This documentary is a peek into the world of some folks that live in what others call a "ghost town." Haunted kewpie doll, boot fence, dream cowboys, custom caskets, and stories of healing are all there in the Dreamworld.

Not just bright, but good color too.

I ignored the flags, just looked at the bottom line.  Big bad mistake. 

I think as well, like relationships, expecting things to change is a lost cause. It's key to accept that a cheap and difficult client will always be a cheap and difficult client. Time spent trying to shape them otherwise is time *much* better spent by finding better clients. I'm definitely guilty of this trap.

This post should be a sticky.
Pinned!

Thanks Andrew, this is a good article. 
I think consumers will be perfectly happy with their smartphones. They will get better, and consumers will have no need for another camera - it's not perfect, gorgeous, well composed shots they are bothered about. 
This reflects through platforms Instagram and what content is popular.  Long gone are the days when Instagram was a creative photo sharing network..... you get FAR more likes on Instagram for a noisy, badly lit selfie of yourself eating a takeaway pizza, rather than a magnificent, beautifully lit, well composed shot you'll never match again. 
Again, because of the consumer onslaught of constant videos and photos being uploaded and shared online, there's some great stuff out there which isn't getting a look in. Actually getting anyone to give a crap about your latest masterpiece is much harder. A video of a drunk fat man dancing is widely far more interesting. 
Coming to cameras - we are that the point where they actually matter less. Models are getting replaced within months, users are on and endless buy-sell cycle to have the latest, and many people are not really learning their craft properly because they can't keep hold a camera for long enough. Lenses, lighting and camera movement have a FAR FAR greater impact then your camera. There's really no point in constantly changing, swapping , upgrading. It's a waste of time. 
Recently, I got an FS5 and soon an external recorder. I can grade the Slog footage well. I have everything I need - LOG, HFR, ergonomics, audio, blah blah. Man I can now do 200fps RAW!! But since having the camera, my videos haven't improved at all. I have more bells and whistles.. but it all comes back to what the hell I am actually filming with it. 
Sometimes, something does arrive which will dramatically improve your work, or will heighten creativity or make your life easier. However this camera race is far too distracting for many of us, and for a large bunch I think some people have took the eye off the ball as to why they are using cameras in the first place. 
I'm sticking to what I've got, and will be spending time on throughly improving my skill set, rather than my camera arsenal. 

I'll be honest, I'd want V-Log in it for that price.
Mind you, if it was eight grand we'd probably all be a bit keener on extracting every last drop of use and performance out of what it did do rather than fixating on what next week's version from another manufacturer might have in it. 
Sometimes stuff being too cheap is a problem all of its own.

I just struggled a bit with this very issue, and here's what I ended up doing.

I started with a couple used Mole Richardson 1K fresnels. I got each for about $150 off eBay, used in good condition. Beautiful lights, very robust, and easy to control. They're my bread and butter--I use them on everything.

Next, I hopped over to Home Depot and picked up some dirt cheap clamp lights. Fitted with some high-wattage incandecent bulbs, they're great for accents, hairlights, background splashes, etc.

Next thing on the list (should be coming this week) are a few ETC Source Four Pars. $70 each shipped, again used. These are 575W tungsten fixtures, but the design of the bulb makes them about the same output as a 1000W open face. These are great for bouncing or pushing through diffusion if you just need raw output, but they also come with 4 lenses: wide flood, medium flood, narrow spot, and very narrow spot. These attachments don't produce the same quality as a fresnel, but they're usable as direct light and easier to control than a redhead. I've used them on a few sets for background punch, kickers, and even as an effect spot for a dream sequence, and they're surprisingly versatile. You can even pick up 3rd party barn doors for $15 or so. Dollars per lumen, S4 Pars are unbeatable.

As soon as I sell off a few more things, I'm picking up a couple Aputure Amaran 672S LED panels. Excellent CRI, dimmable, run on batteries or AC, remote operable, and easy to diffuse (if necessary) with the built-in umbrella mount or Aputure's softbox attachment. I'm debating going with the Ws instead, as I already have enough hard lights, and maybe a variable color temp version, but we'll see how things pan out once I'm actually ready to buy.

Last item on my wishlist is a Lowel Rifa. I admit, this one is a luxury item; it's essentially a big tungsten softbox, but what makes it cool is that you can have it out of the bag and set up in maybe 20 seconds because of the slick way it collapses and expands. Great for motivating interior lights, as a dramatic toplight, beauty light, or anything else you'd use a big soft source for. Some of the newer Rifas even have a system where you can replace the tungsten fixture with three florescents, lowering your power consumption and giving you the option of daylight balance. Very nice. You can find used ones missing the front diffusion sheet for reasonable prices, then just replace the front for $20 or so.

Just remember, don't skimp on light modifiers, stands, and flags.

Go back to Home Depot and find those big 4x8 ft. pieces of styrofoam insulation--white on one side, silver on the other, 1" thick--cut them in quarters (halves if you have the space), and wrap the edges with gaff tape. Bingo bango, you've got some pretty dope bounce boards! If you're using fresnels, grab some used scrims off the 'Bay. They're a little pricier than dimmers, but they won't mess with your color temp when you need to knock down your output. Buy some basic Lee Gels (get these new) in all the essential flavors: CTB, CTO, Straw, Diffusion, ND. They sell a combo pack of 1'x1' gels that include all these, as well as more exotic stuff and some fun colors (primary red is a personal favorite). Grab a bag of clothespins to hold them on your barndoors, and 1" pony clamps for anything else that needs securing. Grab some blackout fabric (duvetyne) for negative fill and controlling spill. Extension cords seem like a "duh" item, but you'd be amazed how many beginners forget about them. You can't be loading 4000 watts of light onto one circuit, so keep enough of these around to run power everywhere you need it. Lastly, some black wrap (I use Rosco Cinefoil) is great for any time you need to shape a light on the fly. I like to cut mine into big, useful-size pieces so they can be reused from project to project.

When it comes to stands, it's hard to cheap out. You simply don't want to trust heavy, expensive, hot lights to a subpar stand. Most brands are great, although my friends speak pretty harshly about Impact. I haven't used enough to confirm or deny. A lot of people like to use C-Stands for their lights, especially the Matthews ones. Personally, I think they're best-used to hold your bounce cards and flag, as the leg design and articulating arm on the top make gripping and positioning modifiers quick and easy. A good one will run you $180-200 retail, although areas with more local filmmaking may have some on the used market for less. In terms of actual light stands, my favorite for the dollar is the Kupo Master Combo HD Stand. It folds up nicely, has both a baby pin and a junior receiver, gives you a leveling leg for uneven surfaces, a solid steel construction, and can hold up to 88 pounds. What a beast! Best of all, they only cost $150 retail. Use these for your fresnels, Rifas, or anything you need to fly high. Don't forget to pick up some sandbags to keep all this from tipping. I have a set by Impact filled with fine gravel from Home Depot (I feel like they should be paying me for this). Lastly, for your C-stands, some Matthews flags are a staple in any grip's kit. It's essentially just a sheet of black fabric on a metal frame with a post on the end for clamping into a c-stand knuckle, but they're invaluable for shaping your light the way you need it.

This may seem daunting at first, but the best way to learn is to pick up the basics and start using them. Practice makes perfect, and lighting is no exception.

Cheers!

here you go:

v2.79
added: Custom overlay
- start from ( settings> overlay ). It loads your own custom overlay from the root directory of the sdcard ( sdcard/overlay.png ). Once activated the touchscreen will not work, and histogram will be "frozen" until you deactivate it ( reminder: Ev+Ev/Ok to start the menu for nx500/nx1)

note that the preview of the playback will not work, however press "ok" for the video playback to start, and the recorded video with the overlay on top will show.

you can make any overlay you like, as 720x480 transparent PNG  (replace the overlay.png with it)

I think the improvement is major in shadow noise and on fine patterns like asphalt or leaves on trees. I also think you can push the image a little more in post. But, in the end, it's all subjective.

I am not sure why everybody wants IBIS, do you all shoot handheld? If I may add another crazy feature request, please add RAW video (but I am pretty sure they will not  ).

Normal gamma, and mostly Ricadro's settings. Enjoy :
 

Im pretty sure I read on YouTube that anchovies are "fake and gay" or was it "just popular because it reminded people of pizzas of yesteryear and that the newer sharper fish was superior."

My bad, I thought they were around $150.
HDMI In only. No HDMI out, no SDI at all, but it less than $300. It's a little contrasty, but the focus peaking seems as accurate as the NX1 and the false color sure is handy.

Someone really needs to do a "Hitler reacts to yet another Hitler reacts" video...

Thanks for sharing your pain! You made the best of a bad situation.

Buried in one of these threads and on test videos from youtube, my recollection is that there wasn't a huge improvement in image quality above 180-200, that's why 180 is the default. Going from the factory 80 to 180, you will notice a huge improvement in what you can do with the image in post. Also, small tight patterns like asphalt or distant tree leaves look much better.
Which hack to use depends on what you want. KS has more features, is reliable, but takes a few seconds to load when turning on the camera. Vasile's hack loads immediately, is reliable, but has less features and takes more steps to install initially. If you just want bitrate, Vasile's might be a better choice. Check out KS features though, he's done some amazing work, you may decide his is better for you.

2.5K mode on the NX500. Very impressive RS performance.
 

Buried in one of these threads and on test videos from youtube, my recollection is that there wasn't a huge improvement in image quality above 180-200, that's why 180 is the default. Going from the factory 80 to 180, you will notice a huge improvement in what you can do with the image in post. Also, small tight patterns like asphalt or distant tree leaves look much better.
Which hack to use depends on what you want. KS has more features, is reliable, but takes a few seconds to load when turning on the camera. Vasile's hack loads immediately, is reliable, but has less features and takes more steps to install initially. If you just want bitrate, Vasile's might be a better choice. Check out KS features though, he's done some amazing work, you may decide his is better for you.

Buried in one of these threads and on test videos from youtube, my recollection is that there wasn't a huge improvement in image quality above 180-200, that's why 180 is the default. Going from the factory 80 to 180, you will notice a huge improvement in what you can do with the image in post. Also, small tight patterns like asphalt or distant tree leaves look much better.
Which hack to use depends on what you want. KS has more features, is reliable, but takes a few seconds to load when turning on the camera. Vasile's hack loads immediately, is reliable, but has less features and takes more steps to install initially. If you just want bitrate, Vasile's might be a better choice. Check out KS features though, he's done some amazing work, you may decide his is better for you.

They also changed their results to de-prioritize forums. Seems like every instructional search now I have to sift through all of the content marketers and brand bloggers all reading the same stupid book. They are all guest posting to increase their own domain authority which also drowns out the real blogs like EOSHD.

second that , truely cudos to Luca for taking this of the ground. We should all be thankful that one is taking his personal time and money for the benefit of us all. Cheers.