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Andrew Reid

I WILL be getting a Fuji X-T3!

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44 minutes ago, mercer said:

That sucks, I’m on a Mac and when I was dealing with h.265 files, from the NX500, I had to transcode to ProRes to work with them in FCPX. It wasn’t that big of a deal since I do that anyway... I prefer to use an intermediary codec to edit with. So as @jbCinC_12 reluctantly suggested, you could go that path instead of buying the studio version. It will be less taxing on your computer as well. 

If I had to buy the Studio version of Resolve, I think I’d just buy the P4K.

Ok, great, I'll take a look at transcoding and see if that will be a good solution. I assume that transcoding doesn't lose any quality vs the original H265 files?

Sorry for the thread drift everyone!

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1 hour ago, MeanRevert said:

Ok, great, I'll take a look at transcoding and see if that will be a good solution. I assume that transcoding doesn't lose any quality vs the original H265 files?

Sorry for the thread drift everyone!

It will be more time consuming due to the extra step of transcoding but there shouldn’t be any quality loss. In fact, some people argue that editing in ProRes, or a similar intermediary codec, will help to preserve the quality.

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13 minutes ago, mercer said:

It will be more time consuming due to the extra step of transcoding

Depending on your system, and how you edit, it can actual save time. If you're grading for example, you'll need to render less and still have much smoother playback. And then exports are likely to be quicker too. You can do the transcoding over night, so you don't even lose that time in the first place. :) 

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3 minutes ago, Anaconda_ said:

Depending on your system, and how you edit, it can actual save time. If you're grading for example, you'll need to render less and still have much smoother playback. And then exports are likely to be quicker too. You can do the transcoding over night, so you don't even lose that time in the first place. :) 

I totally agree, but transcoding has always been a touchy subject so rather than argue about it, I kept it simple... I assume somebody will disagree in 3... 2... 1...

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Just get a Ninja V and be done with internal recordings. Because all internal files are tagged with SDTV BT.601 transfer function (with the exception of HLG files), it causes some NLEs to misinterpret the colour, causing red turn bright orange and dimmer green.

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4 minutes ago, androidlad said:

Just get a Ninja V and be done with internal recordings. Because all internal files are tagged with SDTV BT.601 transfer function (with the exception of HLG files), it causes some NLEs to misinterpret the colour, causing red turn bright orange and dimmer green.

Do you have a picture of your rig with the Ninja V? Without first hand knowledge, it seems if you’re going to go with the added size and cost of a Ninja V on the X-T3, you may as well just get a P4K.

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10 minutes ago, androidlad said:

Just get a Ninja V and be done with internal recordings. Because all internal files are tagged with SDTV BT.601 transfer function (with the exception of HLG files), it causes some NLEs to misinterpret the colour, causing red turn bright orange and dimmer green.

Isn't there a way to correct this in post  ? 

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4 minutes ago, thephoenix said:

Isn't there a way to correct this in post  ? 

There are BT.601-BT.709 3D LUTs that fix it, but not worth the hassle, especially if you grade with other LUTs on top.

Assimilate Scratch is immune to this and shows the colour correctly.

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13 minutes ago, androidlad said:

There are BT.601-BT.709 3D LUTs that fix it, but not worth the hassle, especially if you grade with other LUTs on top.

Assimilate Scratch is immune to this and shows the colour correctly.

any link to it ?

can't always record on ninja so it might be usefull sometimes.

i don't like to grade with luts, it's like doing a recipe with different ingredients than the original recipe, can't have the same taste

also do you have any news about the speedbooster for fuji x ?

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13 hours ago, andrew_dotdot said:

I’m just about to invest in the 10-24 f4 for video myself. I had a Sigma 10-20 f3.5 for my aps-c Canon 70D, and it let in enough light to get acceptably clean video indoors, where I really needed the ultra wide angle. I wonder how you’re using your 10-24 and whether you’re happy with it on the X-T3?

I think it is a very good lens (Fujinon XF10-24 mm F4 R OIS) on my XT-3 and especially for my purposes. Very sharp images, and it works great with video.  I will post some footage and stills with it when I can. For doing my lectures for my online courses in my recording studio, it is a better focal length than the 18 - 55 mm kit lens, and for outdoor photography and video work, especially landscapes, it is great. And for other situations where you would need that range. It was a great move to get this lens. It has some weight to it, but that's not a problem. I also really like the Fujinon XF55-200 mm F3.5-4.8 R LM OIS lens. I will be trying it out for wildlife photography and video. I hope that I can get close enough with the telephoto lens. Will see. May have to get the longer telephoto at some point. Fujinon XF100-400 mm F4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR, Black. Any thoughts about using a teleconverter, pro and con?

Also, I really like to do macro photography and video, so I am probably going to have to get the FUJIFILM XF 80 mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro Lens.

I am also saving up for these two lenses. 

Fujinon MKX18-55 mm T2.9 Lens and Fujinon MKX50-135 mm T2.9 Lens. 

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If anyone is looking for a very budget friendly mid to long tele zoom to the 55-20mm for Fuji and don't mind losing a bit of speed (but gaining some reach), the 50-230mm 4.5-6.7 is worth a look.

It has OIS and a very, erm, "lightweight" construction but optically it is very good.

I did this test of it up against the 50-140mm on my X-T2 a couple of years ago and as you can see even when you crop right in it isn't exactly disgraced in comparison.

They are regularly available used for under £150 (I actually got mine new for less than that but I think its because it was in the garish silver finish!) and if its range that you don't use enough to justify putting the much bigger amounts in then its definitely worth some consideration, particularly if you are looking for something travel friendly.

Comp2.thumb.jpg.f96a8e7426156cc357c0e81c2a3857da.jpgComp3.thumb.jpg.4e15aa5a27d0dd45c7eea825a9bf29c5.jpg

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2 hours ago, proteanstar said:

I think it is a very good lens (Fujinon XF10-24 mm F4 R OIS) on my XT-3 and especially for my purposes. Very sharp images, and it works great with video.  I will post some footage and stills with it when I can. For doing my lectures for my online courses in my recording studio, it is a better focal length than the 18 - 55 mm kit lens, and for outdoor photography and video work, especially landscapes, it is great. And for other situations where you would need that range. It was a great move to get this lens. It has some weight to it, but that's not a problem. I also really like the Fujinon XF55-200 mm F3.5-4.8 R LM OIS lens. I will be trying it out for wildlife photography and video. I hope that I can get close enough with the telephoto lens. Will see. May have to get the longer telephoto at some point. Fujinon XF100-400 mm F4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR, Black. Any thoughts about using a teleconverter, pro and con?

Also, I really like to do macro photography and video, so I am probably going to have to get the FUJIFILM XF 80 mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro Lens.

I am also saving up for these two lenses. 

Fujinon MKX18-55 mm T2.9 Lens and Fujinon MKX50-135 mm T2.9 Lens. 

 

 

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to continue a discussion we had on another thread i am looking for a solution to power my xt3 and it seems power bank is the best solution, but it HAS to be pd compliant.

i have seen a few and most of them not to say 90% are pd on the usb-c output.

so for the xt3 i will need a usb-c to usb-c cable, and from what i see most of them are sold for 5v power when pd delivers more than 5.

so what cable to buy ? is there any difference or the regular will work fine ?

 

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1 hour ago, thephoenix said:

to continue a discussion we had on another thread i am looking for a solution to power my xt3 and it seems power bank is the best solution, but it HAS to be pd compliant.

i have seen a few and most of them not to say 90% are pd on the usb-c output.

so for the xt3 i will need a usb-c to usb-c cable, and from what i see most of them are sold for 5v power when pd delivers more than 5.

so what cable to buy ? is there any difference or the regular will work fine ?

 

If you get that Anker power bank, it comes with usb c cable.

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2 minutes ago, androidlad said:

If you get that Anker power bank, it comes with usb c cable.

yes that anker uses a type A to C cable but most of others do use usb C to C

like this one https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07CJ7C94S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2SZMR92AT3KBC&psc=1

and you know that it is always good to have spares

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28 minutes ago, thephoenix said:

yes that anker uses a type A to C cable but most of others do use usb C to C

like this one https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07CJ7C94S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2SZMR92AT3KBC&psc=1

and you know that it is always good to have spares

Anker uses c to c for the PD port, you can get spare ones from Anker.

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I'm also using Anker PowerCore Speed 20000 PD with X-H1 and it works flawlessly. No need to worry about power for the entire day. You can get the cable from any tech store.

IMG_6826.thumb.JPG.9d06b2aef38e89481a4fb36ba8ede28f.JPG

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The only downside to powering an XT3 from an Anker is you can't also use a gimbal such as the Ronin S...as I just found out. (Uses the same usb port).

However, I'm sending the Ronin back as the whole set up I found too heavy and sticking to XT3 + Ninja V (Smallrig cage mounted) + monopod.

I've also decided against powering with the Anker (mine is about 3 years old but works fine charging the XT3) as it adds even more weight to the set up so instead just keeping it in my bag with a twin USB charger for a pair of XT3 batteries and a USB charger for a pair of the smaller Sony batteries for the Ninja.

This means 2 of my 4 XT3 batteries and 2 of my 5 Sony/Ninja batteries on charge throughout the day. It means battery changes yes, but less weight on the rig and for my work I need max portability.

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i will use the power bank when using the shoulder rig, so no problems with weight.

good you mentionned the ronin as i have a moza air 2 and it is possible to connect the gimball to the camera, the only problem is that they do not provide the small cable

so do you have any link to a very short mini usb to usb c cable ? all i find on amazon is at least 50cm and i need something like 20cm

 

edit: my bad, just found some, just needed the right keywords

https://www.amazon.fr/Openii-dextension-MacBook-Chromebook-appareils/dp/B07FC69S5N/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1551698248&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+micro+usb+usb+c+court

edit again, not the right cable, it is micro usb to c instead of mini to c

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