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Andrew Reid

I WILL be getting a Fuji X-T3!

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2 hours ago, Django said:

XT2 is probably the best hybrid camera deal around. Especially since it got the 120fps FHD & internal F-Log update.

XH1's have also gone down a lot, and with IBIS + Eterna they are solid affordable options as well.

 

oh damn, forgot about the 120fps update! Is it any good?

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EOSHD Pro Color for Sony cameras EOSHD Pro LOG for Sony CamerasEOSHD C-LOG and Film Profiles for All Canon DSLRs
9 minutes ago, Thomas Hill said:

Beautiful. What lens(es) and how high did you go on the ISO?

konica 40/1.8 and cheap noname speedbooster (and a little of machining work). most probably highest iso is 1600 (since i dont do post nr), maybe 3200 in one or two shots.

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X-T2/X-H1 120fps is derived from line-skipping the full sensor, moire/aliasing/noise are severe, the video above (and a few similar ones) use heavy grain and aged film effect to cleverly mask those image artifacts. It's a nice workaround but has limited use.

X-T3/X-T30 120fps improved considerably by incorporating weighted pixel-binning and reduced line-skipping (at the expense of 1.29x crop).

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29 minutes ago, androidlad said:

X-T2/X-H1 120fps is derived from line-skipping the full sensor, moire/aliasing/noise are severe, the video above (and a few similar ones) use heavy grain and aged film effect to cleverly mask those image artifacts. It's a nice workaround but has limited use.

true, aliasing is bad, so im shooting with fast [soft] lenses wide open, 360° and as you said adding a lot of grain (i like it anyway)) over original noise. not suited for clean work but to catch a moment its enough for me. here is another example of 100fps but with xh1; theres a lot of red so watch in 2160 quality (yeah its funny chosing 2160 option to watch 720-like footage but its YT compression bbe )): 

 

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15 hours ago, Vladimir said:

true, aliasing is bad, so im shooting with fast [soft] lenses wide open, 360° and as you said adding a lot of grain (i like it anyway)) over original noise. not suited for clean work but to catch a moment its enough for me. here is another example of 100fps but with xh1; theres a lot of red so watch in 2160 quality (yeah its funny chosing 2160 option to watch 720-like footage but its YT compression bbe )): 

 

Beautifully shot.  Did you use the Konica as well?

 

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so i tried to trigger the xt3 with the tilta nucleus nano, connected a 2.5mm male male from the motor to the fuji plug that is on the top right side of the cam.

didn't work :(

i thought it was just sending a basic electrical signal for the camera to start recording and stops recording but it must be more complicated than that.

sent tilta a message to ask them to support the xt3, hope they will do as this camera sells pretty well i guess

 

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1 hour ago, thephoenix said:

so i tried to trigger the xt3 with the tilta nucleus nano, connected a 2.5mm male male from the motor to the fuji plug that is on the top right side of the cam.

didn't work :(

i thought it was just sending a basic electrical signal for the camera to start recording and stops recording but it must be more complicated than that.

sent tilta a message to ask them to support the xt3, hope they will do as this camera sells pretty well i guess

 

Looking at the page for the run/stop cables for the Nucleus Nano ( https://tilta.com/shop/nucleus-nano-run-stop-cables/ ) the controller end (on the right in this picture) is a 4 pole jack

NucleusNano-RS-Cable-for-Panasonic-GH4GH5GH5s-RS-WLC-T04-GH-legacy2.thumb.jpg.d75b99fc8ba79053b3059dee8d31bafc.jpg

With the Fuji release cable, it is a 3 pole

71k4N4A4PkL._SL1500_.thumb.jpg.217ac8e5d61737958893a9ac8c3e39e8.jpg

You might get lucky by using a 2.5mm 3 pole to 3 pole cable from the camera and putting a 4 pole adapter on the end into the controller.

Otherwise it will be a case of rolling your own by measuring what is coming off each pole when you do the run/stop from the controller and re-wiring the 3 pole connector going into the camera to match what the Fuji is expecting.

The pinout for the Fuji is the same as for Canon, which you will find here 

http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/remote_pinout/index.php

An alternative would be to buy the Panasonic version and make an adapter and, again, the pinout for the Panasonic is at the same link.

 

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On 2/17/2019 at 1:45 AM, Django said:

FWIW i made decent coin doing pro work using XT2. I was able to bring that camera in parts of the world were anything more conspicuous might have gotten me in trouble.

An often underrated aspect of these Fuji's is most people take them for retro film cameras!

The only thing that's given me cold feet about XT3 is all these build quality issues. Really hope they get back to the Sendai manufacturing plant for XH2 etc..

Recently repurchased the X-H1... Local camera store had an open box with warranty and battery grip deal for $1,099.. Traded in an old T4i... Added the Viltrox adapter EF-FX1 for my Sigma 18-35 and it's a pretty decent machine for images. I still have my 80D because that DPAF is hard to beat (hate to admit it, but that Canon Color science SOOC is still gorgeous...) 

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3 minutes ago, thephoenix said:

Yes, if you get really, really lucky that might actually work as is.

If it doesn't then you've got a handy cable to connect a Rode video mic to an iPad !

 

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Just now, BTM_Pix said:

Yes, if you get really, really lucky that might actually work as is.

If it doesn't then you've got a handy cable to connect a Rode video mic to an iPad !

 

The cool thing with amazon is that you can return things. I can try and see what happens 

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