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BrunoCH

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Everything posted by BrunoCH

  1. I don't know. For my short fiction work, now I don't think I'll ever go over the threshold of overheating. I'm very happy with this update.
  2. Do you know on the XT4 with the latest firmware update, you can choose the threshold of the overheating auto-off protection? It is now possible to record at least 40 minutes ; 4K 60p H265 10bit. Watch this video at 2'50 and 4'01mn
  3. One last thing for the XT4. With the latest firmware update, it is possible to choose a high threshold for AUTO POWER OFF TEMP. This seems to allow long recording time.
  4. Exposure compensation is set to 0?
  5. You can read this, on this page https://www.doc-diy.net/photo/remote_pinout/ Fuji (Fujifilm) Fuji has currently three types of wired shutter release connectors. 2.5mm Jack Plug Some of the Fujis have the standard 2.5mm jack socket to connect the microphone. This socket also serves as a shutter release socket. The wiring is compatible with Canon and Pentax (see above) and cheap remotes designed for these brands can be used. So the fuji remote control works like the RS60-E3 cannon remote control. And you can read this on this page http://www.camerahacker.com/RS60-E3_pin-out/pin-out.php When the button on the remote control is pushed half way, contact section 1 and 2 are shorted together, causing the camera to focus. When the button on the remote control is pushed all the way, all three contact sections are shorted together, causing the camera shutter to be released. Pin 1 is actually the ground connector. Therefore, it's pin 1 and pin 3 that causes the camera to trigger. 1 - ground 2 - focus 3 - shutter When you build your own camera interface, you can split the auto-focus and shutter release function by using two switches or use two independent circuits. Now I think I have everything I need. I will try to build my trigger button this weekend. I will use wire 1 and 3 on the momentary button and hide and protect wire 2.
  6. Thanks Jay60p for the answer, but I think the diagram is more like the one I corrected. Just thinking about how the stereo audio is connected. I think I'll try to connect only 1 and 3 on the momentary button and I won't use 2. Just to trigger the rec. but I'll continue to do some internet research first.
  7. Thank you Jay60p for your contributions. I would also like to try to tinker a shutter release for my XT4 but I would just like to use the Vello remote cable and a momentary button like in the following video at 11mm50. But I have three cables on a side and two slots on the button on the other. And I don't know how to do ?
  8. About flare. I find that they resist very well for the lights in front of lens, which are in the frame. For the side lights, just at the edge of the frame, but out of the frame, it's no less good. You can lose contrast very quickly. I have the tilta mattebox on the lens, outside.
  9. I have the 25, 35 and 50mm of this Meike cine lenses. The only downside is the lack of focal length wider than 25mm for X-mount. An optic around 18mm would be really the best. Otherwise, it's good and really good : Long focus throw / Focus ring is very smooth / No focus breathing/ 10 pieces blade /Incredible optical quality / An incredible manufacturing quality (I haven't seen a single dust inside my 3 optics) / All is metal. The 35mm is the focal length I use the most because it's the basic focal length on an APSC sensor.
  10. Nobody here owns the Portkeys LEYE EVF? I would like to know if it is possible to make easily focus with this EVF.
  11. There is no difference in "gradeability" between 420 and 422. The big difference about "gradeability" is 10bits vs 8 bits. F-log is better too. ProRes is better than H265 for hardware but it's another question.
  12. It's very complicated to move the camera by hand with a light rig and to make the focus easily.
  13. With autofocus, two handles side should be a good solution.
  14. Not easy. This is the best I can do.
  15. No. Not easy to manually focus with two side handles.
  16. No, it's not so big. If I don't use the right part, I don't put it on, so I don't weigh down the whole rig. It's very flexible. With my Weebill S, I only use the top part and the left part with a weight to counterbalance the lens and the matte box. You can only buy the half cage. I prefer to have the full one and use only what I need. Half smallrig cage
  17. I got this cage (I only use half) smallrig 1630
  18. BrunoCH

    Fuji X-T4

    Meike lenses are based on Veydra but not the same. Veydra are severe focus breathing, but Meike are almost no focus breathing. Maybe, they lost coverage in this modification.
  19. BrunoCH

    Fuji X-T4

    I think 16mm don't cover APS-C sensor size but only MFT sensor.
  20. BrunoCH

    Fuji X-T4

    There is absolutely no problem to match these three lenses with the 10-bit F-log.
  21. BrunoCH

    Fuji X-T4

    I have the, 25, 35 and 50mm. 75% of my shots are made with the 35mm. When I need wider, I put the 25; very rarely I put the 50mm. Hope Meike will release a 20mm or 19mm if I need wider than 25mm and get stuck by a wall indoors.
  22. BrunoCH

    Fuji X-T4

    Here is a quick XT4 IS test done at the end of the afternoon. No problem with overheating. I shot about 12mn rushes in 45mn without any problem when it was 34 °C in Paris. XT4 hand held with my 50mm Meike cine lens + ND16 filter + lens hood. IS ON; IS boost ON. password : isxt4
  23. BrunoCH

    Fuji X-T4

    Yes, there is a shaking problem at the start. With the weebill I put off XT4 IBIS. I don't know exactly what happened. May be the wind or the last Weebill S firmware update. Or I would have to manually tune the motors. I am using autotune. I put a Swit 5c monitor on my weebill S to get the 2.35 ratio during shooting. In post, you have to desqueeze the picture. There are many possibilities, depending on the software.
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