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So happy I went with Sony a7S III

So happy I went with Sony a7S III

So happy I went with Sony a7S III

Downgrades compared to a7S III
No audio input on a gimbal (without top handle)
No IBIS
No EVF
No HDMI raw (Ninja V is two times cheaper than Shogun 7 and fits camera size better)
No audio in 100/120p mode (a7S III has that option in addition to S&Q)
No 10bit 4K Long GOP (a7S III has that codec option in addition to ALL-I)
Worse menu and touch AF
Worse AWB tools
Half-upgrades compared to a7S III
Looks like DCI 4K (4096 × 2160px) is ~10% cropped for 1:1 readout instead of being slightly oversampled like UHD
Better cooling at the cost of weather sealing
Upgrades compared to a7S III
Electronic ND
Waveform
SDI and SDI raw
Arguably better form-factor for handheld work
More professionally looking camera for a client that likes ... looking ... at your tools ...

Did I miss anything?
 

Downgrades compared to a7S III
No audio input on a gimbal (without top handle)
No IBIS
No EVF
No HDMI raw (Ninja V is two times cheaper than Shogun 7 and fits camera size better)
No audio in 100/120p mode (a7S III has that option in addition to S&Q)
No 10bit 4K Long GOP (a7S III has that codec option in addition to ALL-I)
Worse menu and touch AF
Worse AWB tools
Half-upgrades compared to a7S III
Looks like DCI 4K (4096 × 2160px) is ~10% cropped for 1:1 readout instead of being slightly oversampled like UHD
Better cooling at the cost of weather sealing
Upgrades compared to a7S III
Electronic ND
Waveform
SDI and SDI raw
Arguably better form-factor for handheld work
More professionally looking camera for a client that likes ... looking ... at your tools ...

Did I miss anything?
 

Downgrades compared to a7S III
No audio input on a gimbal (without top handle)
No IBIS
No EVF
No HDMI raw (Ninja V is two times cheaper than Shogun 7 and fits camera size better)
No audio in 100/120p mode (a7S III has that option in addition to S&Q)
No 10bit 4K Long GOP (a7S III has that codec option in addition to ALL-I)
Worse menu and touch AF
Worse AWB tools
Half-upgrades compared to a7S III
Looks like DCI 4K (4096 × 2160px) is ~10% cropped for 1:1 readout instead of being slightly oversampled like UHD
Better cooling at the cost of weather sealing
Upgrades compared to a7S III
Electronic ND
Waveform
SDI and SDI raw
Arguably better form-factor for handheld work
More professionally looking camera for a client that likes ... looking ... at your tools ...

Did I miss anything?
 

But it does 😄 No matter what camera do you use, 24-105 f/4 can transfer only a certain amount of light. Crop sensor collects light from a smaller area = less light collected compared to FF camera with the same lens. The speedbooster can only compensate that by focusing all of the light from the lens onto the smaller sensor area.
 
So 24-105 f/4 with a speed-booster will look just as it looks on full frame.

I'm going to wager that the grown-up conversation going on on the other thread about the exciting new camera and it's capabilities is going to be a lot more interesting than this one.  Just a hunch. 

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

But this is interesting: There is another overheat symbol appearing after 15 minutes into my seconf 120fps run: one without the camera, a thermomter only. After stopping and taking out the card (leaving in the SD card) the symbol turns white. It disapears after taking out the (very hot) CFExpress card. So it seems to be an overheat warning for the CFExpress card.
 

Very odd indeed! Might be last minute decision, or even part of plan to eventually "solve all issues" by the time camera truly ships.
 
This + the fact that @Andrew Reid had to use a formatted card after every "reset" might point to camera reading the contents of the card with time stamps to know if there was an 8K / 4K HQ etc. recorded recently.
 
I wonder what happens if you record 8K until camera overheats in one R5, then insert the same card into a different R5 ... if the code is this flawed (quite possible, since it looks to be a last minute thing) – the fresh R5 might think it is overheated without ever being powered on.

At the end of my video linked above I am showing a neat trick that I found out. If the overheating timer shows 00:00 it is still possible to start recording within a few seconds. Here's how: Power down the R5 normally. Press the record button and keep pressing it the whole time. Switch on the R5, and as soon as it finishes its startup process It will start recording. Once it starts recording you can stop pressing the record button. I am showing this a couple of times at the end of my video linked above.
This leads me to believe that the overheating timer was slapped on in the last instance of the development process, at least the timer procedure kicks in very late in the startup process, after reading out user commands apparently. Very odd.
The trick is not very useful though, it only records for a couple of seconds to at most a minute. It appears the overheating timers are very precise, the time it records before it shuts down due to 'overheating' correlates with the time since the previous time it shuts down from overheating.

As I've replied on YouTube – all modes "overheat"! It's just that the message about it is displayed only when switching to 8K / 4K HQ / slow motion.
Meaning: you can be sitting in the menus, or taking a couple of stills for an hour. As soon as you switch to video – camera will let you know it was "overheating" all this time and can no longer film. Even power off.
It puzzles me why won't Canon do a hybrid camera for all of us to eventually spend millions on RF glass?

Same thing here! I will only buy an RF cine camera as an addition to hybrid camera because it's the main tool for what we do, even though we use video cameras for some projects.

Same thing here! I will only buy an RF cine camera as an addition to hybrid camera because it's the main tool for what we do, even though we use video cameras for some projects.

Same thing here! I will only buy an RF cine camera as an addition to hybrid camera because it's the main tool for what we do, even though we use video cameras for some projects.

I like ProAV as a company to buy from and their videos about products are hype free and informative.
However, I think that video is a misstep by them and there are some presumptions in there from them about how you could use it that won't leave them with a leg to stand on when people want to return them.
I'm utterly baffled why they would make a video about something with that many caveats in it without closing with "and of course we won't be taking any orders for these until all of these issues are at the very least clarified by Canon".
 

And I will be one of them. I could not care less about Canon, Sony or any other business and how they treat their customers. 
If Canon give me the camera I want which NO other manufacturer can offer me, I'll buy it even if they initially lied about overheating. It's not like they killed children in Africa. 
They are little bastards trying to make us buy their big Cine cameras by crippling the R5 but that's about it. If they offer the best I'll buy the best. I am not gonna buy a much inferior A7S III just to punish Canon lol. 

Now that's if they make it the best, which means removing that software limit. If they keep it as is, the R5 is then the inferior product and is good for a return and other companies can take my money. 
Consumers have no mercy. I can tell you that if they don't change that they will loose all video shooters on the R5. Maybe they don't care and won't change it, if they want that money they will change it and people will buy it. Maybe 2 or 3 people won't for punishing the bad Canon but ultimately they are punishing themselves from not using the superior product. 
There is no way around it. Fix the god damn camera so we can buy it, or sell it to photographers only and go F yourself Canon. 

Can’t wait for Porsche to release a new 911 with 300 horsepower and a top speed of 200mph and a cruising speed of 100*
 
 
 
 
*top speed only achievable on a cloudy, 24C day. Cruising speed is only for a max of 30 mins, except when in 6th gear max cruising time is 15mins. 5th gear allows unlimited cruising time but suspension is disabled and top speed is disabled.

But it’s not a bonus. Even if they didn’t market the video the way they did. You literally can’t use your “bonus” most of the time. You don’t sell someone chocolate and say actually you can only eat that for 3 seconds and then you have to wait to eat a little bit more. And you don’t include 8K RAW VIDEO if the design is inadequate to actually operate it. If it was a stills camera first, then you simply don’t include those video features at all. Basically what they did with all their other 5D cameras.

Nope. I do however have an R5. My intended usage is shooting stills, and for that it’s one of the greatest cameras Canon has ever made. The fact that it can record any video at is a bonus.

This thread details the teardown process, modifications made and some important findings:
http://c.tieba.baidu.com/p/6848700307?pn=1


He replaced the two thermal pads that did not fully cover the CPU with a dollop of thermal paste and noticed significantly better and more even heat dissipation.
Most important finding: despite the temperature drop and improved heat dissipation, 8K/4K HQ still cut off at 20min mark, suggesting a firmware limit is also in place.

That topic has nothing to do with the issue: R5 in 4KHQ overheats while browsing menus and doesn't when filming externally without a card.

Nope – that is 4K HQ being output to Ninja V for sure