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Panasonic GH6


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Thanks for your info.

Anyway you gave me a doubt, jajajaja, so I just did a test with the lens hood and without it. The 2 clips look perfectly alike. But it was not only a slight vignetting the problem that my VND disappointed me but also because the shot clip was too different from the one shot without VND (I mean color cast). When I shoot with the solid HOYA PRO8 I get a almost the same as the one shot without the solid ND filter. If I just take off a bit of red and I add a bit of blu (almost insignificant amount), I get the same image of the clip (almost perfectly the same).

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I was buying Nisi True Color VND filter 67mm. But in Europe this size is nowhere to be found because the retailers have finished them and it is in reordering. But 62mm is easily found. So I wrote to Nisi and they replied saying that it is not necessary to buy a larger size but the 62mm is ok. My question is: is there anyone who uses that VND filter with the same target size of the lens? Do you see slight vignetting or not? Thank you

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4 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

I was buying Nisi True Color VND filter 67mm. But in Europe this size is nowhere to be found because the retailers have finished them and it is in reordering. But 62mm is easily found. So I wrote to Nisi and they replied saying that it is not necessary to buy a larger size but the 62mm is ok. My question is: is there anyone who uses that VND filter with the same target size of the lens? Do you see slight vignetting or not? Thank you

 

No, it should be fine to buy the same size VND. Typical practice is to buy a filter that fits your biggest lens, that way you can use step up rings on your smaller lens

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I reserve the right to do some other tests but I must say that I am satisfied with the VND True Color Nisi filter. Already seeing the clips that don't have a minimum of color cast, I was thrilled. Then I must say that this VND also creates images with excellent definition, almost equal to the clips shot without a filter.

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Is your other ND the SLR Magic Vari ND II?

Are you saying that the Nisi is sharper, or just less colour cast?

My main interest in the TrueColour is if it has less of a polarisation effect than what I already own (SLR Magic). To me, that is the annoying feature of Vari NDs.

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Yes, I have ND the SLR Magic Vari ND II.

Unfortunately now I am in bed with a sore throat and fever and I have not been able to do any more tests. What I have already done led me to the consideration that Nisi True Color is slightly sharper than SLR Magic and with no color cast at all. If I have to put it in a nutshell, it is almost impossible to distinguish the clip shot with the VND Nisi filter and without the VND Nisi. I had placed the 2 clips on the editing software, side by side and then I watched them carefully on a 27 "4K monitor.

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11 hours ago, FoxAdriano said:

Yes, I have ND the SLR Magic Vari ND II.

Unfortunately now I am in bed with a sore throat and fever and I have not been able to do any more tests. What I have already done led me to the consideration that Nisi True Color is slightly sharper than SLR Magic and with no color cast at all. If I have to put it in a nutshell, it is almost impossible to distinguish the clip shot with the VND Nisi filter and without the VND Nisi. I had placed the 2 clips on the editing software, side by side and then I watched them carefully on a 27 "4K monitor.

Best wishes for a full and speedy recovery!

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Hello I can't understand why when I make videos in V-Log, I see the Waveform in the viewfinder (so it's enabled in the options), but when I want to make the stills and I put the ring on "M", the Waveform disappears. I went to the Menu to check and I saw that it is enabled. But what can this problem depend on? Maybe do I have to enable some other option in the Menu? Thank you

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On 7/4/2022 at 8:36 PM, FoxAdriano said:

Hello I can't understand why when I make videos in V-Log, I see the Waveform in the viewfinder (so it's enabled in the options), but when I want to make the stills and I put the ring on "M", the Waveform disappears. I went to the Menu to check and I saw that it is enabled. But what can this problem depend on? Maybe do I have to enable some other option in the Menu? Thank you

Waveform is quite likely only for video function, for stills you probably have to activate the histogram if you want to see that.

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1 hour ago, PannySVHS said:

So how do you like your GH6, image in Dual Gain mode, battery life, etc?

I need more time to get a feel for it.

We've just moved back from NZ to Ireland and have been preoccupied with finding a place to live. I mainly shoot video for corporate work that I do, very little for family stuff or for pleasure/creativity. Since we've returned I've done one major job but I used the GH5 as I didn't want any curve balls that the GH6 might throw my way.

So I've really only pressed record on it a handful of times, doing a few tests. From the little I've shot with it, it seems like the battery life is really shit compared to the GH5 and a USB power source will be necessary. I don't use rigs, so I was thinking even just having one in the bag to charge up the last battery when it's been used. That might be enough to get me through a half day shoot.

DR boost gives you an extra stop in the highlights. That's it. So if you think of your average GH5 scene and where it clips, then DR boost will give you one stop more info, at the cost of using heavy NDs in most situations. I've got as far as a 5 stop Tiffen solid ND to stick under my SLR Magic Vari ND II, but am considering the Nisi True Colour to replace the SLR Magic as it probably has less colour cast (which is not so important to me) and possibly slightly less polarisation (which is the real ass kicker with vari NDs, I think).

I've satisfactorily matched the colour from the GH6 and GH5 in V-Log, and the image is thus practically identical for my purposes when not using DR boost. If you set the GH5 to minimum sharpness and noise reduction it's the same as the GH6 in terms of detail/sharpness/artificiality/organicness (except there may be differences in noise which I haven't examined in great detail), so the choice to use one or the other for me now comes down to functionality and ease of use.

I do miss the easy 2x digital zoom for HD like on the GH5 as discussed previously in this thread.

Having said all that, there are a few things that I really like a lot about the GH6:

- Red frame when recording. This is a lifesaver. I've often lost shots from having gotten into the wrong record/stop button pressing cycle
- Punch in while recording to check focus
- Luminance spot meter. This is not for everyone but it's amazingly useful for me as another exposure tool
- Usable AF using Panasonic lenses (anything I've checked on the Speedbooster is hopeless). Maybe once a year I need to do a static shoot of people walking down a corridor towards camera, chatting. The AF will do a better job than I can and give the 2 or 3 seconds of usable footage that I need.
- Confidence that I can shoot in low light if needed. Previously I've never needed more than 3200 ISO (most shots are on a Tamron 24-70 2.8, which is f1.8 on a Metabones XL) but that was a bit noisy on the GH5 and on the GH6 with DR boost it's much cleaner.

Ha ha! Here are some more negatives though:

- The build quality doesn't feel as good as the GH5.
- Some YouTuber was complaining about the silly mechanism on the memory card door and I agree with him. There was nothing wrong with the door on the GH5, but the GH6 is now finicky to open.
- The stupid light streaking thing which I have seen, when I deliberately tried to recreate it.
- The whole DR boost thing is voodoo. I've got noisy results in daylight using it, which worries me. I need more tests to suss this one out.

And finally, here are some mildly shocking things I've learned when comparing to the GH5:

- GH6 is slightly wider angle of view
- GH6 gives slightly darker image
- There is quite probably an overall colour cast imbalance. Almost certainly when using the same WB preset or when dialling in degrees Kelvin, and possibly also even when doing a custom WB on the same target. Need to test this more. It might just be the difference between my two units.

Honestly, if you have a GH5 there is no huge reason to upgrade unless you definitely need the higher resolution, codec or frame rate specs. The output is going to look pretty much the same. It's not like the jump from the GH4 to the GH5, which added 10 bit and made V-Log usable. More like the GH5 to the GH5 II - a better camera to use but your client/audience won't see anything diferent.

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Bad battery life! Oh, that defeats the purpose of a DSLM for me. My compact LX15 has bad battery life and I don´t enjoy having it with me based on that. I like to believe @deezids  observations reagarding the cinematic quality of the output without artificial sharpness and mushyness at higher iso. Youtube tests show, it holds much better on to colour and resolution than a GH5s in lowlight. CineD compared its latitude with a A7IV. So low light and organic output should be a big plus. If battery life would be the same as from my GX85 I would consider it okay. Lack of cropping modes is a lost opportunity though such as lack of stellar battery life. GH5II looks interesting with its improved processing and the internal 10bit 4K60p, still providing the delicious crop modes and the great battery life.

The combination of faster readout and IBIS still works significantly better for me when it comes to moving the camera. So I was putting hopes on the GH6 as it ticks a lot of boxes with its supposely great "organic" image and stellar readout and IBIS. Well, good reason to practice more on my S1.

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14 hours ago, PannySVHS said:

My compact LX15 has bad battery life and I don´t enjoy having it with me based on that.

I don't like it either! Especially when doing long interviews 😞

14 hours ago, PannySVHS said:

I like to believe @deezids  observations reagarding the cinematic quality of the output without artificial sharpness and mushyness at higher iso

I definitely thought I noticed a difference between the GH5 and S series cameras. But, forgetting about noise, high ISO performance and recovering from bad exposure and concentrating only on the "organic" versus "artificial" continuum I don't see a difference between the GH5 and GH6 set at the same exposure when examining single frame. Here are some examples. Both cameras are ISO 400 V-Log and have been colour and exposure matched. GH5 is first, then GH6 in each pair:

1824826883_M006C022_220703_D244(0-29-06-06)_1.thumb.jpg.108082146917a890bd1e008ca4285d8e.jpg 

1293467930_M006C022_220703_D244(0-29-06-07)_1.thumb.jpg.0108b51736eb6242c536124aa33b2032.jpg

 

386355565_M006C026_220704_D244(0-29-54-18)_1.thumb.jpg.167ac90274a265a1805a11b5e10a92de.jpg

381215934_M006C026_220704_D244(0-29-54-19)_1.thumb.jpg.43435c8bb5a1119e97d16888a97031bb.jpg

That's what I mean about the image being essentially identical for my purposes. Maybe the detail is slightly finer and less coarse in the GH6??

Of course, this comparison ignores temporal characteristics (maybe the noise pattern is nicer on the GH6?) as well as the extra dynamic range in DR boost which will differentiate it from the GH5, as well as the VLog colour being a nicer starting point on the GH6 if you're just going to use Panasonic's luts.

14 hours ago, PannySVHS said:

GH5II looks interesting with its improved processing and the internal 10bit 4K60p, still providing the delicious crop modes and the great battery life.

That is a very good point!

M006C022_220703_D244 (0-29-06-06)_1.jpg

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