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The Diopter Thread.


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In the end, we never stop talking about these suckers across multiple threads, so I'm gonna try to compile as much information as I can into this one.   As in most cases, diopters are cheaper than a

Hi all, Inspired by Tito and Bold and their anamorphic Lens-cyclopedia, I decided to try and make a list of low power diopters useful for anamorphic video. Using the info in this thread and searching

Well done, man! +0.25 is hard to get! I have this minolta, it's almost the same as the Tokina +0.4, except it's +0.33 http://www.ebay.com/itm/111827493087

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just received my Voigtlander Focar A & B Diopters and initial tests seem v.positive on my 54.

They are single element diopters +1 & +2 respectively.

With my APS-C camera i can use a 35mm taking lens with no vignetting!

 

Only paid £45 incl. P&P.

Best to go looking around as i've seen these puppies go for well over £200, but mostly i've seen them being sold for £20 each - so don't get taken advantage of!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Still looking for a decent one. Havent seen any recent postings for a larger size 0.5 or anything of the like for a while.

I got a +0.5 Tokina but i underestimated the size it was only 52mm too small. Far too small get tons of vignetting but whats in focus is nice and sharp for my panasonic LA7200

 

With all the fuss about the LA7200 and problems it has been thinking of getting something else entirely. I dont really know yet.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello guys, i've been reading this thread because is my intention to buy an achromat to improve the sharpness and close range of my Elmoscope Ii.

After reading all is sitll unclear to me if there are cheaper and decent alternatives to the tokina achromats.

i would be happy to spent 200 bucks but not the 500 they are asking for the tokinas.

The front element for the Elmo is 60mm.

Any advice?

Thanks!

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There aren't very many acromat lenses (doublet) available, very few at the size of the Tokina and fewer still at its relatively low power. 

 

SLR Magic is going to be producing both a +0.4 (same as the Tokina), +1.3 and +1.7 set at 77mm diameter size.  They intend for the set as a companion product to their upcoming anamorphic adapter.  They're already including the +0.4 and +1.3 with beta versions of the anamorphic.

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They're already including the +0.4 and +1.3 with beta versions of the anamorphic.

why if they have a new design?

 

 

 

interesting as they said many times that diopters where expensive and not needed with a new design? which is true if it was a new design this is proof it is just a revamped vamped china century copy with a copy of the japan tokina. these guys are true originals. the reason they need close up achromat is because the anamorphic is single element. nothing wrong with the kit should b sweet but we are then way over 2000 dollars yes no. by my guess the moller 1.5 should then be trading at 2400 as it will always optically be a better lens than the slr magic.

 

someone with a big brain show me how single element cylindrical lens bests double element.

 

 

 

here is my custom original designed achromat not an easy copy of the tokina

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34211301@N00/10062412625/

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It's not a necessary thing for that lens.

 

Blah-blah-blah

 

Your moller 1.5, can I track focus on a moving target with a moving camera at the widest aperture the adapter can handle?  Oh, and what's the widest taking lens that can be used?

 

They saw my posts here and on PV that CU diopters enhance bokeh on 1.33x anamorphic adapters (maybe elsewhere too, from other people, but I know they saw mine).  They tested it.  They saw it worked.  They looked and saw what diopters were available in 77mm size, how few of them there were and then fewer still offered in multi-coated form and then fewer still how many were doublets.  

 

FFS

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wow 

all because of you  : )

damn you should of told them to use a doublet in the anamorphic design then they would not have this low light issue.

it is not bokeh it is a limitation in the century design f stoppin init.

but like the noise alex jones from your town,you austin folks nose best ; )

 

 

cannot wait to see your trackin shots at night.

 

and fuck you and your ffs you tit

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in old hollywood times the camera dept,the camera rental companies did not bother with achromatic correction. harrison and harrison,mitchells and tiffen made do with single element close up. in fact many rentals got local companies to make pretty shit close up optics.

i nose cos i worked at technovision,jdc and panavision.

in film they had a big team  structure spherical or scope they did not shoot wide open unless they could help it.

if they had to shoot a stop down from open the lovely quality camera optics could take it.

using shit plate window glass close up on anamorphic was not an issue the folks shootin had plenty a lights and nice heavy f stops correcting any nasties

we was messin with achromatic close up in the 1980s.

2 big 2 expensive and 2 heavy once you got over 80mm a joke when you got to 130-150mm. not needed.

today

compact digical cams are different the folks are different most are shooting without lights, no gaffers and sparks,shooting  wide open some  with seriously shit anamorphics.

 

where did most of the tokina come from,who got them,who tested them,who purchased most of the worlds stock from various warehouses around the world. who sold them,who bored folks with the info  it is true these optics will help you.

who got abuse from no it all schmucks  saying single element is good enough doublets are not needed you are talking shit.

me.

most of the tokina around the world came from me,shipped from london.

how can the tokina made nearly 10 years ago be in original box like new cos i purchase everything new old stock. sold them at £75 sterling then the fewer i had the higher the price went.

i now have 3 left out of 300 hundred.

so sorry for calling you a tit but your crap about you lecturing some copy cat china company about what to do

did not come from you from an original concept, it came from my insight.

 

the improvement of optex,century with tokina came from my experiments.

did i twitter blog about it or shoot a shit  noisy vampy video no.

i experimented played and fiddled and sold some stuff with a cast iron guarantee of improvements.

 

the fact they are making a +0.4 shows again that china has zero original idea.

nearly always based on idea theft or takeover.

i gave up my anamorphic build quite a while ago because i have high standards and was aiming for the stars.

i now understand that this is not important a hill will do.

what is more important is the hype of the new and how pretty the promo film looks. since letus and slr are being so lazy on the design side i will knock up some interesting nick nacks that should be pretty nice reply.

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so sorry for calling you a tit but your crap about you lecturing some copy cat china company about what to do

did not come from you from an original concept, it came from my insight.

 

Actually no, you got almost everything wrong about what I said or did or me in yet another racist rant, polluting any thread mentioning that company or China or whatever, dropped to ad hominem and didn't even answer my question or interpret that right.  

 

Also, the subject at hand has nothing to do with the Tokina, which does nothing to enhance or re-introduce oval bokeh to the 1.33x adapters.  It's not strong enough.  So here again, you're knee jerking over the wrong thing.  Doublet design doesn't do it.  Multi-coating doesn't do it.  Magnification strength does it.  Thanks for the history lesson though.

 

I lectured nobody.  I took credit for nothing.  It was the guys at Riot Unit that have been the one and only source of this information anywhere (that I've seen) with their published stills showing pronounced oval bokeh with a Century Optics thanks to a +2 Hoya (non-doublet), no Tokina used.  Doublet design is best, of course, but that's not the aspect that restores/enhances the oval bokeh on these 1.33x adapter and it's not what lets them work with longer lenses at larger apertures.  Strength is the factor here. 

 

I didn't take credit for the technique or the original idea to try it.  I've been making a point to mention it because it's something not mentioned here before, not in Andrew's guide, not as part of the rhetoric surrounding these adapters.  It's significant because it answers the common complaint against them that they aren't anamorphic enough in their bokeh.  Pardon me for living, sir but you're wrong about the facts or my intentions.

 

 

Apology accepted.

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ebay hunting has always been a good option!

 

http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/2570-the-diopter-thread/page-5#entry38563

Maybe this one can help you, it's 60mm... Maybe you should get a +0.5, but a doublet will always be expensive, unless the seller doesn't know what it does (and that is still quite common).

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If anyone is still interested in diopters, I have a couple of spare +0.5 diopters with 72mm thread.

These are no achromatic doublets; they are single element, but are excellent quality and personally I use them anytime on my Iscorama (with results comparable to the all time classic Tokina +0.4 achromat).

On an Iscorama +0.5 will enable you to get closer than the 2m minimum focus distance of the Isco, in the 1m to 2m range. A second +0.5 stacked will enable you to get a nice close up in the 0.5m-1m range. Usually I have all range covered with only two of those.

As a bonus, these are thinner than the Tokina single element ones, so you don't get vignetting even if you stack 2 of them.

The 72mm thread is nice, since they directly fit on the Iscorama, or on the redstan front filter clamps. I have also used them to get a close up of an eye, with a Canon EF 135mm f2.0 L lens.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Are there any negative diopters? I mean usually they are useless but does anyone know about them being produced for photography? I used the back glass group of a Helios as a focal reducer successfully but it reduces the working distance and I want to counteract this by using a negative diopter.

I haven't used this for anamorphic yet, but I thought I ask this here.

 

Here is a Hoya 200mm f3.5 working as a 135mm f2.0 (estimated)

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