dgvro

XT4
Punches above its weight with noise control in low light (x-trans noise is always nicer)
Not full frame but focal reducers are there (and excellent Fringer non-reducer adapters)
Only thing is that the IBIS behaves slightly differently on different fuji lenses. Some it's slightly jerky, some it's great.
Manual lenses you can kind of tune it yourself by inputting a different focal lenght setting
Much more useable AF (okay, depends...)

Having full bit depth h.265 and good bitrates in all resolutions and framerates and all capture modes felt amazing after GH5 which had a lot of gotchas in certain modes like VFR only being 8 bit

Size and looks beat the gh5 too though I can't say 'ergos' are superior necessarily for practical use

if they had only put that fantastic (& tilting) EVF from the GX8 into the GX9, or even just put better IBIS in the GX8, it would have been beating out other Pana rangefinders as an allrounder for years

Just bought an A7iii. Not because I really want it or rate it. I had a last opportunity to discount VAT (IVA here), the camera with a 50 1.8 cost 2100€ but with a 400€ cashback from Sony. Then discounting the VAT it comes in around 1350€. Why the A7iii? Because I have a new client and they only use Sony so hopefully it means more work (I've been told that if I had had a Sony I would have had several shoots in October and November). I just informed them of the purchase and they've just confirmed the first shoot of the year, so seems a good choice. Seriously thought about the A7Siii but I don't think this year is the time to splash out.
To finance this I have sold my GX85, Sigma 18-35 1.8 and a Sigma 50-150 2.8. I'm also selling a Canon 18-135, 2 Voigtlanders and 2 Edlekrone sliders. This will give me enough to purchase a Tamron 28-75 2.8 or a Sigma 24-70 2.8 for the Sony. I might well sell my 10-25 1.7 Lumix as well if I like the Sony enough.
I will keep my GH5 and GH5S with the 12-35 2.8 and 35-100 2.8, XLR adapter etc for streaming and long form recordings. Lenses are easy enough to rent cheaply in Madrid if I need one.
So for me it's about rationalising my gear choices. If the Sony works out well for me I'd consider a A7iv depending on needs, specs and price.
P.S. What I really wanted to buy was the Panasonic S5 but I couldn't justify it rationally!

I know the exact vibe you mean.
It's rampant in highly sentimental low to medium budget pieces with docu- type (but still an artistic piece) video portraits of human subjects. I can already see the examples I recall in my head, a person standing there (not speaking) in their house or other environment of theirs, with their "sleeves rolled up", the camera gently swaying. All very "candid" and ~authentic~. There's a strange sense of 'canned vulnerability' about it at this point, but I suppose there's a reason for everything, its only guilty of being a bit overused really.
Often shot at 60fps and conformed to 24/25p for a subtle slowmo look but not full blown overcooked slowmo.
Wouldn't discount certain (other) types of contrived camera sway being added in post, btw. Seen plenty of examples where it was obvious

I feel like there is a crowd for these videos here. Apologies for the shameless self promotion though.

Yeah, the CinelikeD hack came out of me developing a couple of prototype controllers for Panasonic cameras before there was a pivot to the BM cameras.
The PBC, and by extension the AFX, are actually built on that original foundation so if Panasonic introduce BLE control capabilities then its all there ready to go but using WiFi for control is not ideal (more in terms of power/heat with the cameras than the controller) so I'd prefer to avoid it.
 
 

sorry, old quote here - you mean the GX85 color profiles hack or some other one? That hack was what first brought me to this forum haha. I have to thank you. Did I see right you guys are also based in Ireland?? This device looks fantastic btw. Excited for the Oct 26th thing you mentioned also...

Have only skimmed the thread and the details on this gimbal so far but, my main question:
 
If you're already all rigged up holding a gimbal in your hand and with a gear motor attached to your lens:
Why would you not just use a wheel on the gimbal to manually pull focus?
Remember the whole point is you're almost certainly already holding it all in your hand. Follow focus add-on motors on the last gen (Ronin S/SC, Weebill S, Moza Aircross 2) all offer totally usable follow focus already. Why even invite the uncertainty of an autofocus system...
These gimbals look awesome though and I'm definitely feeling a hint of remorse at having recently bought a Ronin SC that I never even got to take out of the box yet 😅
 

Couldn’t really say on 2 counts...
First, I have never owned a GH series camera, though I have had an Olympus 5ii four years ago, but used it on a monopod for video.
Second, depends how and what you use IBIS for. For me it would be for ‘tripod’ mode, ie, no movement. Not even a gentle pan. From what I have seen, 99% of IBIS tests seem to be vloggers walking and talking to camera or trying to replicate gimbal moves whilst stating that IBIS is not a replacement for a gimbal.
But I can say that compared to a tripod, for my needs (elements within my framing move and I do not), it’s pretty bloody good!

Ironically, you missed the irony and the joke. And the irony. As well as the joke. 

You most certainly could do that too.
Working space inside the adapter is going to be the issue with any solution.
With a non speed boosted adapter it is less of an issue.

Yes.  It might be best to run the leads outside of the adapter/speedbooster, and epoxy or hot-melt-glue the switch to the adapter housing.
 
By the way, the pictured dip switch is tiny. 

Why not just put a switch inline on the "hot" power lead of the adapter instead of powering with an external source?  That way, OP can just enable and disable the electronics by merely flicking the switch.
 
Incidentally, here is a small dip switch that might work:

Without power, the adapter will not be able to communicate with the camera so you should only need to isolate the power and ground to stop it working.
This means that you should be able to bring those out those externally and power the adapter from an external source that you would then be able to engage and disengage with a switch as required.
Something like this module which allows you to use a rechargeable 16340 battery could be used and they are about €4 on Aliexpress and the batteries are around €2 for 2 or €6 for 10.

It probably won't be pretty and you'll need to find a Fuji service manual to find out the pins but it will work for what you need and is definitely low budget.
 

I've used the XH1 and now own an XT4.
The XT4 is definitely just... better when it comes to IBIS. I found the XH1 to be sickeningly bad for the way I shoot, I had to get rid of it asap. Those little quantised jumps in sensor movement were destroying shot after shot. The XT4 has similar but more well-controlled issues I suppose. It's not up there with Panasonic IBIS though (not like GH5 anyway).
 
You're right about the planes of movement thing, this is the key with Fuji IBIS I guess. It just can't handle any sort of movement in more than one plane at a time. Tilt while panning? You'll get tiny jerks and catch-up movements in the stabilisation. Likewise strafing or raising the position of the whole camera in space while panning or tilting. You have to be very deliberate with the XT4 handheld movements. I never use the DIS digital stab. The IS Boost seems to be okay, to be honest I can't tell the difference in what that's doing half the time. It's performance may have been altered a bit in one of the firmware updates and I'm just confused about its efficacy now at this point.
Something about the XT4 footage stabilises pretty nicely in post, thankfully. Maybe the good performance for rolling shutter is important there. Stick (in DaVinci Resolve anyway) to the straightforward 'translation' type stabilisation and you can avoid the dreaded "warpy shit". So if you're happy enough to polish your footage after that way, you'll get perfectly great results with the XT4 IBIS, yes. Especially with a heavier setup, I guess.
The codecs are really great. I'm delighted with how well they hold up in terms of noise and dynamic range. They playback/edit fairly well for h265 and all too on my laptop.

I think he's using the Blackmagic Micro and yeah the zoom style is his signature especially for the live show edits. I think it's to accentuate the rhythm of the songs but I love it so I'm kinda guilty on this subject 😅 nice to see another hxc fan! 

I've used the XH1 and now own an XT4.
The XT4 is definitely just... better when it comes to IBIS. I found the XH1 to be sickeningly bad for the way I shoot, I had to get rid of it asap. Those little quantised jumps in sensor movement were destroying shot after shot. The XT4 has similar but more well-controlled issues I suppose. It's not up there with Panasonic IBIS though (not like GH5 anyway).
 
You're right about the planes of movement thing, this is the key with Fuji IBIS I guess. It just can't handle any sort of movement in more than one plane at a time. Tilt while panning? You'll get tiny jerks and catch-up movements in the stabilisation. Likewise strafing or raising the position of the whole camera in space while panning or tilting. You have to be very deliberate with the XT4 handheld movements. I never use the DIS digital stab. The IS Boost seems to be okay, to be honest I can't tell the difference in what that's doing half the time. It's performance may have been altered a bit in one of the firmware updates and I'm just confused about its efficacy now at this point.
Something about the XT4 footage stabilises pretty nicely in post, thankfully. Maybe the good performance for rolling shutter is important there. Stick (in DaVinci Resolve anyway) to the straightforward 'translation' type stabilisation and you can avoid the dreaded "warpy shit". So if you're happy enough to polish your footage after that way, you'll get perfectly great results with the XT4 IBIS, yes. Especially with a heavier setup, I guess.
The codecs are really great. I'm delighted with how well they hold up in terms of noise and dynamic range. They playback/edit fairly well for h265 and all too on my laptop.

I've used the XH1 and now own an XT4.
The XT4 is definitely just... better when it comes to IBIS. I found the XH1 to be sickeningly bad for the way I shoot, I had to get rid of it asap. Those little quantised jumps in sensor movement were destroying shot after shot. The XT4 has similar but more well-controlled issues I suppose. It's not up there with Panasonic IBIS though (not like GH5 anyway).
 
You're right about the planes of movement thing, this is the key with Fuji IBIS I guess. It just can't handle any sort of movement in more than one plane at a time. Tilt while panning? You'll get tiny jerks and catch-up movements in the stabilisation. Likewise strafing or raising the position of the whole camera in space while panning or tilting. You have to be very deliberate with the XT4 handheld movements. I never use the DIS digital stab. The IS Boost seems to be okay, to be honest I can't tell the difference in what that's doing half the time. It's performance may have been altered a bit in one of the firmware updates and I'm just confused about its efficacy now at this point.
Something about the XT4 footage stabilises pretty nicely in post, thankfully. Maybe the good performance for rolling shutter is important there. Stick (in DaVinci Resolve anyway) to the straightforward 'translation' type stabilisation and you can avoid the dreaded "warpy shit". So if you're happy enough to polish your footage after that way, you'll get perfectly great results with the XT4 IBIS, yes. Especially with a heavier setup, I guess.
The codecs are really great. I'm delighted with how well they hold up in terms of noise and dynamic range. They playback/edit fairly well for h265 and all too on my laptop.

UPDATE:
I have tried the date/time trick without defeating the battery door sensor. Just pull the battery as normal and it works.
https://www.eoshd.com/news/magic-lantern-users-create-practical-canon-eos-r5-overheating-timer-workaround/

Just catching up on what is probably already old news on this now.
The firmware update "fixing" overheating is exactly the sham I was saying I was wary of. Get a few youtubers with a big neon "Overheating Fixed????" in their video thumbnail and there's just enough misinformation then to keep people buying the product. After those initial first wave of remorseful people who got the thing already, of course.
Quick firmware updates that don't really change anything (Fuji XT4 IBIS anyone? IS Boost suddenly does worse than nothing? NOT fixed) and nobody's sure what to believe anymore. "Oh but I heard they fixed it?"
Hope it gets hacked to bits like the GH2 and people who have bought it get a workhorse to grow into for the next 10 years instead of buying another canon body.

Just catching up on what is probably already old news on this now.
The firmware update "fixing" overheating is exactly the sham I was saying I was wary of. Get a few youtubers with a big neon "Overheating Fixed????" in their video thumbnail and there's just enough misinformation then to keep people buying the product. After those initial first wave of remorseful people who got the thing already, of course.
Quick firmware updates that don't really change anything (Fuji XT4 IBIS anyone? IS Boost suddenly does worse than nothing? NOT fixed) and nobody's sure what to believe anymore. "Oh but I heard they fixed it?"
Hope it gets hacked to bits like the GH2 and people who have bought it get a workhorse to grow into for the next 10 years instead of buying another canon body.

Well that doesn't really look any smaller at all 😂

I can speak to the Metabones adapter and a few  non IS EF lenses. I've use mine over the past few weeks with the 17-40L, 70-200 f2.8 (non-IS) and the 50 1.4. I didn't have receive any error messages about IBIS from the T4 when using these lenses  and was able to toggle Boost on and off. So I've assumed that IBIS was working with them. I just played around with the 17-40 and looked at footage I shot the other day with the 70-200, and it definitely seems like the IBIS is working. 
I have a 180 L Macro I can play with at some point, and I have a dumb Vizlex VND adapter I can put on and see if it makes any difference with IBIS and EF lenses, but probably not today.  Slammed with work projects and freelance stuff right now... a good place to be.
I'm happy with the Metabones speedbooster so far. I need to figure out an EF lens with good native autofocus that would fill a hole in my lens collection to buy and test with the Metabones. A  prime in the 50 to 80 range would be the ticket, I'm just not sure which lenses to look at here that aren't L-series. All my personal EF glass is L-Series, but I don't necessarily want to spend a grand+ right now on an adapted lens.

yeah. Sort of. You can get a x1.29 crop any time you want at the touch of a (programmed) button.
When shooting 4k50/60p you're forced to a x1.19 crop at a minimum anyway.
When shooting slowmotion 1080 you're forced to a x1.29 crop anyway
When shooting with Digital Image Stabilisation (DIS) on, you're forced to x1.11 crop anyway. (DIS can't be used during slowmo btw)
The crops don't stack, of course.

Technically ANY time you shoot 4k you can crop x2 into that in post for a decent 1080p too, of course.

This is interesting. I haven't posted on my T4 recording torture test yet. Last weekend I tested 4k 24p recording times in my office at 79F/26C. I was able to get almost 2 hours out of the camera, ending the test when the battery died. I recorded for about 24 minutes in 4K (limited by the amount of space on my card) then messed around the menu system, recorded a minute or so in 1080, reformatted the card and then recorded about 74 minutes in 4K by restarting record each time it ended after timing out.
During this time, I was also feeding signal to my Ninja v to monitor recording. OIS on my 17-55 was enabled, as was IBIS (but not boost mode if I remember correctly). The camera was positioned on my desk on a Ronin-S, so the stabilization wasn't actually needed. I'm not sure how much heat the IBIS generates if it's on but not actually needed. I had the screen flipped out to dissipate heat. The camera definitely got hot to the touch but didn't trigger an overheat warning or limit record times above the normal limit.
After I put in a new battery and reformatted my card, I put on my new Speedbooster with an EF 50 1.4, switched to photo mode and took a bunch of jpegs of one of my dogs, who was sleeping on my office couch (photo below, just for fun).
So, at least at reasonably warm indoor temperature overheating doesn't seem to be an overheating problem, at least not one that would cripple a reasonable video workflow. ~Two hours of actual record time on a shoot is pretty long. As I mentioned before, I got about 2 hours of total use time outside on a 90+ degree day recording external 4K plus internal 1080. I'll try to do an outdoor torture test soon, but I'm not sure how to set it up with monitor (because I'm chained to the computer until I finish editing a project for a client). So far, overheating on the T4 isn't going to hold me back. IBIS