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About 63degreesnorth

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  • My cameras and kit
    Fujifilm X-H1 and X-T3 with cine modded Nikkor Ai-s

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  1. I haven’t really kept abreast with this thread so excuse me if this has been touched on before... I’m a long time Fuji user. Currently running with 2 X-H1’s and an X-T3. I make most of my money in the stills department but am pushing further and further into video... I have most of the native Fuji fast glass but found for video I much prefer the look of vintage glass. I was lucky enough to inherit my father’s set of Ai-s primes which I’ve cine-modded. Mounted to the X-H1’s (fantastic stills / occasional video cameras) I’ve gotten some pretty stellar results even with their limited 8 bit codec. The softer lenses, older coating formulas cutting down on the overly sharpened image, beautiful highlight roll off + subtle bloom, and lovely organic looking flair (with a high quality ND in front of them). Of course when it comes to rolling shutter and pushing colors around the X-t3’s faster readout and superior codecs shine but I have much more fun just throwing the Nikkor 28 f2 or 50 f1.2 on one of the X-H1’s and just walking out the door. In the time I’ve worked with the X-H1’s IBIS (after the firmware updates) I’ve found I can get pretty lovely pans, tilts, push-ins / pull-outs by putting it in a cage with a top handle and adding a bit of weight to the camera. Often in lieu of a full rig by just screwing a 1-2lb counterweight directly under the center of mass... it seems by limiting the planes of movement (in a relative sense of course) the IBIS really does a lovely job. For stills it’s a game changer especially when manually focusing old fast glass but that’s another story. My question is has anyone tried this with X-t4? How does the IBIS perform under those conditions. Currently torn between selling the X-t3 and 16-80 and picking up an X-t4 or an s5. Or waiting perhaps another year for an X-h2. 🙃 Also does anyone know if the s5 suffers from the same latency issues over hdmi as previous Panasonic models? ... if so + lack of the ability to punch in while recording might make it a no go for my use case. Otherwise looks to be a lovely camera - of course a full size HDMI would be preferred! Thanks for your time.
  2. I see the virtue of the box/brain form factor as dovetailing nicely with GS for handheld work... in my admittedly short time trying to master the art so much seems to come down to functional/dynamic balance of the rig... much easier to get a grip positioned on axis with the COG... of course weight helps smooth things out but one can achieve nice handheld motion with a well-balanced lightish rig.
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