Timotheus

Now I haven't watched the review itself, but aren't we being a bit harsh here?
I find this a useful - if basic - demonstration of the DR and a quick and dirty grade. It's an ugly shot, sure. It's not a Hollywood level production, but if I'm being honest this is the kind of shot I end up with in my edits frequently, and the kind of shot you want to know you can salvage something 'usable'. Not spectacular or perfect, but usable, and in that case this is a good demonstration.
If you're expecting world-class images from both a technical and artistic standpoint then go see Dune in the cinema or watch any number of big-budget movies. This is a low/no budget camera review.
As a content maker myself I can see what he was trying to do, and it was adequate in my view. I don't like this attitude of piling on on somebody for one shot that you personally might have done different.
Or perhaps all of our work is beyond reproach with every shot a masterpiece?

So there are two aspects: checking whether the scope is aligned, and then optimizing for use with variable diopter by setting both scope and taking lens at (or near) infinity.
Find an object with fine detail, at least a few metres away, so that the minimum focus of your scope covers it. Focus taking lens alone, add scope and focus it til you get a sharp image, so double focusing. If this is impossible, your scope is out of alignment and will require some maintenance.
If you CAN get a sharp image while double focusing, then proceed to infinity focusing on a far away subject. First check whether the taking lens can reach it. Then add scope and do the same. Sometimes the scope is aligned, but cannot reach infinity. On the 16H this requires tuning one tab that determines the focus range of the scope.
When both taking lens and scope are double focused at infinity add the FVD and see if you can get a sharp image. Sometimes the taking lens needs a slight nudge to just before infinity.
Take your time and be systematic. If you don't succeed ask help in the helpful Anamorphic Shooters Facebook group.

The D850 is a decent enough camera for filming with (especially for your purposes from the sounds of it, a D850 might even be called "overkill"), it is a camera many of us would have killed for only a handful of years ago. 

Rather than buying a secondhand Panasonic GH5, put that money into buying a Sound Devices MixPre3 & SmallHD Focus. 

Yes the design works for the three models on the right (whose body design is identical).

This is a very good and scharp scope with perfect ovals across the frame.
Would benefit from a single focus solution like Rapido FVD16A.
You need a front thread adapter then, like this: https://rafcamera.com/adapter-72mm-to-m75x0-75m

For support, have a look at the great 3d print designs from Lucas Pfaff.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/grabhole-qr-adapter-sal
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/70mm-clamp-with-beam-support-for-anamorphic-projection-lenses

Hi,
the price for a Z6 in virtually virgin condition hovers around € 900/1000 in the moment (if seen it for 1250 with the kit zoom), which might make it the best full frame hybrid option on the planet, in terms of quality/price ratio.
What do you think? While the stills quality and the ergonomics are certainly not disputable, what about the video experience? Is the internal 8bit with the flat profile usable? Does it hold up against, let's say the A7iii + it's log? How bad is the user interface on the video side? There have been quite a few reviews reporting an overly populated lcd screen and the inability to display key meters like focus peaking and zebras at the same time.
What are your experiences, especially when working in and non controlled environment w/o a tripod and with natural light? Would you recommend buying the z6 for that price (and a50/50 video/stills environment)? 
Thanks

(repost from the Anamorphic Shooters group on FB, but I thought it would be interesting for here as well ☺️)
- SLR Magic Rangefinder hack -
I was getting a bit tired of the blue blobbin' and bleeding flares of the SLR Magic Rangefinder. With the modified Century Optics wide-angle adapters being used for single focus rehousings (by POOLi™) I started thinking of using similar glass as replacement into the otherwise fine Rangefinder helicoid. One 0.82x wide-angle adapter seemed very close in dimensions: the Fujinon WCV-82SC, also sold as RCV-82SC, and also sold under the JVC brand. Note the 82mm front thread, which is the same as the RF.
Found one cheap, disassembled it and sure enough, the two elements are very close in size to those found in the RF.
Rear element was easily replaced because it fits just fine, using the retainer ring on the back of the RF. But be very sure to put it in the right direction, very important! Front element was a bit more tricky as it is somewhat thinner than the RF front element, ending up 'too deep' in the helicoid. Now it focused way past infinity and not close. So I used some step rings to lay the front element on and bring it more forward. I then used the original retainer ring from the WA adapter to fix the front element in the helicoid. Tadaa...a new single focus in an old housing. Pro's:
- wider shots possible
- no more blue bleeding flares
- close focus is a bit better also, I measured around 90cm, compared to listed MFD of the Rangefinder of 110cm.
Cons:
- somewhat more distortion at the edges and more CA
- less sharp than RF in corners, but when using 2x anamorphics this is somewhat mitigated as the sharp center gets stretched out.
- requires some fiddling with step rings behind the front element as spacer to calibrate focus range.
Cheers, Tim
P.S. You can find some (boring) test shots in the Facebook post.

Great lens. I've seen them go in the range of 50-100 euros. When in good condition with box and all, I would certainly bet on the higher end of that. The non-E pancake is more or less the same, is said to have better coating and fetches a somewhat higher price.

Can we call it a fullframe GH5? Or is it missing some other pro things? It has 10 bit, 60p, timecode, LUT assist, waveforms... teleconversion modes too!
Size is in the Z6, a7iii, R6 range. But (much) better video features. Except AF of course...

Price will be important, as will availability of more affordable native glass. The new zoom is a good start. Now some compact F1.8 or F2 primes would be welcome.

Yeah it seems off by a bit. Make sure you test extensively by finetuning focus on all three lenses with magnified view.
If it's impossible to reach infinity try to reach John directly through Facebook.
Or, if there is still time, the seller you bought it from?


 

Sorry to hear. How long have you had Hardcore DNA? There is a known batch with optical issues, more specifically not reaching infinity. Has been discussed a few times on Anamorphic Shooters facebook group.

Best bet is to contact John and ask for replacement glass. Might be an issue though if you are not the first owner.

Just humor but I really want to know what's the catch. 

I don't agree with Tony Northrup on a lot of stuff, but I do believe his take on the EOS R5 is probably pretty close to reality. I'm having a hard time believing the rumors on the R5. The specs could be correct but with a lot of asterisks. In other words, 8k time lapse, short duration 4k at 120fps or severely cropped, etc....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uczXVIWSJyo

Anamorphic Store products are very pricey for what they are. Their single focuser is rather crappy (see the anamorphic shooters FB group). I would avoid.
Rapido has a much better deal. The single focus solution is much better and has wider coverage.
You could also consider putting several parts together yourself. Cinelux ES goes for 300-400. FVD 16 is 550. Then you will need some clamps and a support (let's say 150-250). In other words, 1000 dollar gets you a lot.

How important is (wide) coverage for you? 55mm on fullframe with this lens is hard to imagine, aps-c or smaller would make more sense. In general, chubby and short with big elements provide widest coverage. That's why the 8z variants (16H, B&H, Sankor Anamoprime) are so popular (mind the crazy edge distortion though). He is talking about a smaller lens (probably 16S or 16A).
The new Sirui might actually be an interesting point of entry too... cheap, sharp, good flares imo, compact, no rigging issues and single focus. It's just that the squeeze is low (1.33x) but perhaps an oval aperture mod might improve the bokeh. I am waiting for @Tito Ferradans's review. He will surely address it's strength and weaknesses.

Hey guys!
I wanted to share my latest project and there's no better place than here, where I started! The price of scopes on ebay only goes up. To counter that I spent the last two years researching and testing out ways to achieve the anamorphic look WITHOUT actually using scopes - which I call "anamorfaking". Then I turned all of the research into a 170pg guide and put it up on my blog.
http://www.anamorfakeit.com
I get a lot of suspicious (not to say dismissive) looks when I say I'd rather shoot anamorfake than use most adapters out there. Many folks think that REAL anamorphic will always be superior and better. I'm here to challenge that perspective. If you go on the link above there's a quiz featuring ten images that mix anamorphic, anamorfake or both techniques. See how well you can tell them apart! If you get all correct, there's a discount for the new guide.
You can also check the first few pages for free here: http://www.tferradans.com/anamorfake/TFerradans-AnamorfakeDemo.pdf
Have you ever used any tricks to craft the anamorphic look?
Lens mods, oval cutout filters, fishing line, letterboxing, etc

Thought about doing it?
Nope, me neither.
Except.....I've been thinking quite a lot about the Meike cine primes over the past couple of weeks and the slight sticking point of them being tied into the MFT lens mount cameras.
Its not a massive deal breaker particularly as there are no shortage of great options to mount them on but as someone who also owns a couple of E mount cameras, it would be nice to have the versatility of being able to use them on those too, albeit it in APS-C mode.
The Veydras, which the Meike lenses are "closely associated" with, did have an E mount option IIRC but the new ones don't.
Which got me thinking about whether, as there is some flange distance to play with, there was an MFT to E mount adapter available and it turns out that there is one made by Pixco so £18 later, I now have it and here it is.

As there isn't a massive amount of flange distance to play with (1.25mm) then the adapter is understandably quite thin yet doesn't particularly feel flimsy but I did find that when changing lenses its better to dismount the lens with the adapter attached and then re-attach it to the next lens as its a bit fiddly to lift the locking pin release on the adapter.
Now the first thing to say is, other than to just try that it works, there is absolutely no point in mounting an electronic MFT lens such as this.

You will have absolutely no control of the aperture, focus and in most cases the lens will not fill the sensor.
So, absolutely pointless and probably explains why there is no particularly buoyant market in making these adapters
Of course, for our purposes, of mounting manual only MFT lenses to it then it works perfectly.
That doesn't just go for the Meike lenses but of course for any manual lens such as Voigtlander, Samyang, 7Artisans etc.
Its worth checking but most of these lenses are usually originally made for APS-C so even in MFT mount they will have enough coverage.
Where things get really interesting for me though, and I suspect for people with both MFT and E mount systems is being able to re-utilise existing MFT adapters.
For me, these range from an obvious one such as PL...

To being able to use my Nikon F/G to MFT speed booster which with its integral aperture lever control is so much more usable than having to use a Canon version with a thin F adapter on it and the fiddly aperture lever.

Next up is being able to mount the Vizelex Lens Throttle Variable ND adapter to make a compact fast swappable full frame system with vintage primes.

Last but not least is being able to use Aputure DEC Lens Regain on the A6500 to speedboost Canon lenses and have electronic follow focus control.

OK, so most of these things can be done with dedicated E mount versions of these adapters but the biggest issue is the additional cost of buying them all again if you run both systems.
That £18 adapter (which I had no idea existed ) has saved well over £1000 in additional adapters for the E mount cameras.
Using my warped justification logic, that means I am now legally entitled to buy two of the Meike primes as I will still be £250 up on the deal  
Seriously though, for anyone who is moving from an MFT to E mount system or who has E mount cameras and never had MFT but wants to take advantage of the usually less expensive and more widely available MFT versions of adapters available used then its definitely worth splashing out the £18 for one of these.
Ditto for anyone who has a Z mount system as Pixco also make an MFT to Z mount adapter with which you can do the same tricks.

i feel like im starting to get the hang of this filmmaking thing, for the first time, with the project im doing right now
i dunno how i couldve gotten this far without andrew, eoshd, and all u guys on this board helping me, and answering my stupid questions
it means a lot
i just want u all 2 kno ?
 
thank you

People are crazy, in 1-2 month when they bring out the update and there is no internal Raw, many will come here and say how they did not win an Oscar because Nikon did not put internal Raw in the Z6. One thing I would recommend anyone, you can get a refurbish z6 for 1350 USD. Just add an atomos Ninja 5 to that and for barely 2k, you are getting a full frame 4k camera, that does not have some of the best ergonomics but also out of the box color and video autofocus (forgot IBIS). The Ninja, will give you a ton of other features that make it so much more than just a recorder with a plethora of Focus and exposure tool.
Now until Nikon comes out with the price of the RAW upgrade, I cannot be sure on the RAW camera cost. If we speculate it is between 200- 500, you might get a full features FF raw video camera for less than 2.5k. If someone told me that we would have such a camera one year ago, I would have called him crazy. But you will have a bunch here that will always be complaining. If ever that internal RAW comes along as speculated on this thread, it will be in an uncompressed form, good luck working with these gigantic files beyond the cat footage and wife driving car.

Yep, perhaps some component is not holding up to what they expected and they prefer to play it safe and do a hardware upgrade. On every site people have been complaining about companies giving more features if need, even for a paid upgrade. You have a company doing it, and giving you the ultimate format and people are still complaining. I mean Nikon just brought 10 bit (full frame) and raw to the dslr mirrorless market price segment and those guys are still complaining. You would believe Nikon just removed 24p in their latest camera release or still sticking to 8bit video.

People are real life jokes, so you are getting RAW video from an update and don't have to buy a new camera and you are still complaining. The z6 is like half the cost of that Panasonic and is still beyond most people capabilities as shown by the video above.
 
 
Have you seen the size of the BM apsc only 6k camera. Tell me about it's superb autofocus and battery life for video... and photo. Oh yeah, Nikon should do a video camera and forget there core market for some people on the internet that I am sure has a valid reason to need a raw full frame camera for less than 3k. They are really ripping their customers.

Cool stuff if true. I tried finding the source of this, but didn't succeed.
Could you point us to the source of this, I would like te learn more.
Thx!

Hugh Brownstone helps people wake up on the good deal that the Z system represents... Now having completed the basic trio 35-50-85/1.8, in lightweight, weather sealed, razor sharp, relatively affordable packages.
IF they also deliver on proresRaw as promised in September-ish than I suspect we will be talking about Nikon for a while.
 

Yeah we have IBC over here in september, perhaps we beat you to it ?

I was just saying Cine Gear was happening.  Atomos will be there.