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Everything posted by Timotheus

  1. It's actually relatively easy as there are only two elements that are each fixed with one retainer ring. The rear element can be swapped out, and the Rangefinder's back retainer ring can be re-used. On the front, the element of the Fujinon is a tad smaller and thinner. However, when using the Fujinon's original front retainer ring it grips perfectly, as that also has a 82mm outer thread, and it has a 'rim' that fits snugly over the element's edge. Only aspect that needs some tinkering is finding adequate spacers to lay the front element on. Otherwise it ends up to 'deep' in the housing. I used step rings, which work just fine.
  2. (repost from the Anamorphic Shooters group on FB, but I thought it would be interesting for here as well ☺️) - SLR Magic Rangefinder hack - I was getting a bit tired of the blue blobbin' and bleeding flares of the SLR Magic Rangefinder. With the modified Century Optics wide-angle adapters being used for single focus rehousings (by POOLi™) I started thinking of using similar glass as replacement into the otherwise fine Rangefinder helicoid. One 0.82x wide-angle adapter seemed very close in dimensions: the Fujinon WCV-82SC, also sold as RCV-82SC, and also sold under the JVC brand. Note the 82mm front thread, which is the same as the RF. Found one cheap, disassembled it and sure enough, the two elements are very close in size to those found in the RF. Rear element was easily replaced because it fits just fine, using the retainer ring on the back of the RF. But be very sure to put it in the right direction, very important! Front element was a bit more tricky as it is somewhat thinner than the RF front element, ending up 'too deep' in the helicoid. Now it focused way past infinity and not close. So I used some step rings to lay the front element on and bring it more forward. I then used the original retainer ring from the WA adapter to fix the front element in the helicoid. Tadaa...a new single focus in an old housing. Pro's: - wider shots possible - no more blue bleeding flares - close focus is a bit better also, I measured around 90cm, compared to listed MFD of the Rangefinder of 110cm. Cons: - somewhat more distortion at the edges and more CA - less sharp than RF in corners, but when using 2x anamorphics this is somewhat mitigated as the sharp center gets stretched out. - requires some fiddling with step rings behind the front element as spacer to calibrate focus range. Cheers, Tim P.S. You can find some (boring) test shots in the Facebook post.
  3. Yeah Viltrox is coming out with one too...the m4/3 version they have performed way better than the Kipon reviewed here, German YT channel ValuetechTV has a comparison if I remember correctly. It was much cheaper also, but we'll have to see how the pricing for this model works out. Manufacturer details here: http://www.viltrox.com/en/index.php?m=index&a=show&cid=145&id=227
  4. @Grimor Nice rig. Could you show the other side as well?
  5. On the Anamorphic Shooters group on FB there was a guy that modified the Pentax 40mm 2.8 pancake to be even more flat at the front. He combined that with a Kowa 8z/16h/B&H (one of those) on a Canon 5diii with ML... Crazy bent edges though, so prolly not that useable. If I remember correctly there also wasn't a single focus attached.
  6. I think we fully agree ? And in order to get to that exact same FOV on different sensor sizes, you will need equivalent lenses (50 on FF or 25 on m4/3 = same FOV).
  7. Your question is kind of confusing... I think the age old confusing topic of 'equivalency' might play a part here? Anyways...generally speaking the widest I have seen people get is somewhere in between 45-50mm fullframe equivalent focal lengths... Working with your proposed setup of a m43 sensor (crop factor 2) and 0.71 speedbooster, you end up with a final cropfactor of 2*0.71= 1.42 for the combination. Calculating with 50mm then gives 50/1.42=35.2 meaning that on m43 with 0.71x speedbooster the widest taking lens will be around 35mm. Working without speedbooster means you can use a 25mm focal length on M43 (as it translates to a 50mm equivalent FOV). Hope this helps.
  8. Nice vintage look. All shot wide open? Does it get sharper closing down? How is the focusing to handle?
  9. The obvious and widely available option with those lenses would be the SLR Magic Anamorphot-50 1.33x. On the 35mm you could probably also get away with the SLR Magic Compact Anamorphot-40. Beware of the heavy blue flaring. Sharpness gets nice from F4 and up. Vintage (more pricey, rare) options would include LA7200 and Century WS-13. Check out Tito Ferradans' Youtube reviews for all the aforementioned. Current high-end option would be the Letus Anamorphx http://www.letus35.com/letus-anamorphx-pro-1-3x-adapter/
  10. Nice images once more Kees! (and I really, really want an Isco (pre-)36 now)
  11. Andrew had a nice rant about this. https://www.eoshd.com/2018/09/dishonest-misleading-unnecessary-eos-r-and-cropped-4k/ In short, it´s a smaller effective sensor size than APS-c/Super 35, almost getting at micro four thirds levels... (With crop-glass like Sigma 18-35 and 30mm F1.4 you can compensate somewhat).
  12. For the manual focus crowd, there is the rather nice Vizelex Throttle ND, with vari ND built in the mount adapter. Now if they could "only" also add some focal reducing glass...
  13. If you can live with the blue flares and low sharpness below f2.8, the new "Near/Far" SLR Magic Rangefinder is an okay budget solution at $279 in the US. In my country it's at 389 euros unfortunately, but still the cheapest, easily available option. Now if they could just release one with neutral coatings...
  14. Am envious man! Haha... But what sensor size are we talking about?
  15. Yeah and just bring a smaller / hybrid variant as well. The specs of this thing are (still) fantastic...they should be able to put this tech in a smaller package by now. But I guess the hybrid market isn't their focus...
  16. Nice shots mate. I love the form factor, but no mic jack is a deal breaker for me. In its current feature set it compares a bit to a GX85 (or am I missing something critical?).
  17. If you want to control the aperture through the camera, you need a smart adapter. I believe on the Nikon adapter there is a manual aperture lever, but you'll have to check as I have the Canon one. For choosing between speedbooster or not: determine what you need: With speedbooster you get a fullframe equivalent of around 25-50mm f2.5 Without speedbooster fullframe equivalent of 36-70 F3.6 Or get both adapters with and without glass to effectively get two zoom ranges from one lens! The Viltrox are quite affordable. Just don't plan on relying on continuous autofocus.
  18. Nice, the resuscitation of this thread. Am only here to report that the (fantastic) Sigma 18-35 focuses -mechanically-. As far as I know, only the DN series lenses from Sigma are fly-by-wire (the dedicated mirrorless lenses, the 19/30/60mm f2.8 ones are cheap, sharp and small)
  19. Thanks, will look into this. Big glass though, around the size of the Rangefinder glass, hope it'll fit...
  20. Hey @whoisjsd nice work man! I am going slightly off on a tangent here, but wouldn't this also work with glass harvested from wideangle adapters? I have a Fujinon wide-angle adapter that I disassembled to try holding the glass to focus and sure enough it works. Only challenge now is to create a functioning helicoid to put them in. Any pointers for that based on you work done with teh B&H parts?
  21. That has been there for a while on the Ursa Mini 4.6K and UMP...now hoping it will make it to the Pocket 4K!
  22. Very interested in what you do with it. It's a rare thing and there is not much info about it.
  23. I really liked Caleb's point in the video above: what if Canon had released an APS-c body with 4K, DPAF, fully articulated screen, headphone jack and 4K 10 bit 422 out? Somehow sounds better, video folks might have been less dissappointed than they are now, but it's kinda the (video)camera the R is atm... (Still no way I am going to get it though haha... )
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