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Meet the Anamorphic Lens Cap (Old Delft Delrama 8 CP 1,5)Somewhere last year I stumbled upon a lot of Delrama 8 CP 1,5 lenses, made by the Dutch company Old Delft. A tiny fixed focus 1,5x anamorphic for 8mm camera's. It uses curved prisms and mirrors instead of cylincrical lenses. I bought them with some diy projects in mind... Sadly, the Delrama's are in pretty bad shape, as you can see. It isn't fungus, it is the silver on the mirrors that is detoiriated. You can't clean it, you'd have to redamp the mirrors to fix it. I never really looked into it, since it seems an expensive process. So they have been lying around here for a while... Today I decided to experiment a bit more with them. The Delrama's have a screw mount that is exactly the same size as a C-mount lens. I don't have any lenses where I can fit it onto directly, but since it's so small and light, I decided to sacrifice a simple plastic lens cap from one of my Minolta's. I cut a hole into it, just large enough to fit the filter thread. It holds the Delrama pretty well. On the last picture it is attached to my Minolta 58mm f/1.4. It seems to need a pretty long lens. With the 58mm and the GH2 it works fine, but on my 35mm it's like looking trough a tunnel. I also 'modified' a Computar 25mm f/1.8 C-mount lens. I superglued a C-mount extension ring to the inner part of the lens barrel (that doesn't move while focusing). I loosely screw the Delrama on top of that, align it and then tighten it with the little clamp. This results in a tiny anamorphic combination, but it only works in EXTC. Also, I think I'll have to modify the Computar lens, since it doesn't quite focus to infinity. It's a funny little combination though. I took the Anamorphic Lens Cap and the Computar Anamorphic out for some test shots: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfV0xHHhQUU In hindsight I should have used a profile with more contrast, this was all shot at smooth -2-2-2-2. The damaged Delrama's probably make the image even flatter. But the light was already pretty flat. I have no idea how it would compare to a Delrama in pristine conditions, but even with the damaged mirrors these liltle ones still look usable in some way. It is nice to be able to rack focus them. I'm not sure what the minimum focus distance is. I read 4 meters somewhere, but I think it's closer to 2 meters. I also tried holding some diopters in front of the lens, with a +1 diopter I could focus at 0,5 meters.
Zeiss Ikon Anamorphot 22/1.5x
QuickHitRecord posted a topic in Camerashttp://vimeo.com/70264199 I had all but given up on ever finding the perfect 8mm anamorphic lens, but I recently got my hands on what I think is the most rare anamorphic lens that I have ever owned -- the Zeiss Ikon Anamorphot 22/1.5x. It is almost impossible to find any information on this lens. I could not find any pictures of the lens, nor any test footage. In fact, the only reason that I knew that it existed was a tip from anamorphic Godfather Kostas Petsas, who also has one. He compares his Ikon to the Iscomorphot 8/1.5x. Like the Iscomorphot 8/1.5x, it's an 8mm "baby" lens that is fully rack-focusable. The helicoid is smooth and has a very manageable throw, so focusing is no problem at all as you will see in the test video above. The slightly wider diameter actually makes the lens easier to focus the baby Isco, and of course it is much more focus-friendly than the strenuous focus throw of the Iscorama. It's a little bigger than the Iscomorphot 1.5x (front filter thread is about 43mm, and rear diameter is about 32mm) but still much smaller and lighter than the Iscomorphot 2x or the Iscorama. It's nice not to have to add in a support system to hold the weight of the additional lens. Coupled with a DSLR, a taking lens with a silver finish and a silver clamp from Redstan, this could be a great stealth anamorphic setup. I think that perhaps the most substantial difference between the Ikon and the Iscomorphot is that the Ikon is usable when the taking lens is wide open (at least at f/1.8). Though it is not razor sharp like the Iscorama, I don't see a limitation here. The minimum focus distance is impressive. I've been able to focus as close as 22" wide open without any diopters. I haven't really put it through the paces yet, but from what I've seen, the lens has some nice, understated character. It's a lot less smeary than some of the 8mm anamorphics that I have used. The flares are thinly stretched blue ovals, similar to my Moller 32/2x (but I think that I may like the Zeiss flares even more). I have been able to use it with my FS100 with a 50mm lens, which is usually my go-to lens when I first get an anamorphic lens. I'll have to test it to see if I can get away with using a wider taking lens. I am excited about this lens. It is the easiest, simplest anamorphic lens that I have ever used and the image is very pleasing. I think that this is a winner. If anyone else has one, I'd love to compare notes.
Hello to everyone, I've been looking for a small anamorphic adapter for a long long time from now, and finally, I got mine. I've been hesitating about which one to take : the search of the perfect adapter that would suit all my needs.. for a reasonnable price ofc.. (Yeah, I know..) :rolleyes: Anyway I'm so happy to tell you that I "may" have found it : The Yashica Scope, 1.5x adapter anamorphic for 8mm ! (Well let's make the things clear, I was looking for a tiny, compact, and light weight adapter, to be paired to some old school c-mount lenses on a BMPCC, I don't claim to have found an awesome setup that'll work for every scenarios ! :) ) I've just received it, that's why I'll only share my first feelings in this post, but later when I'll have time to dig more in the subject I'll come back to this. I still need a proper way to attach it to my taking lens. I gave up on step-down ring because I plan to use it most of the time on my Angenieux C-mount lenses which filter thread is 39mm... The Yashica is 30mm.. And I can't find any 39 to 30mm ring. If anyone has any info about a ring that would work, let me know ! ^_^ Anyway, the best way seems to be a custom clamp, still have to work on that... Here are some screenshots : All of these screenshots have been shot with my Angenieux 25mm f/0.95 at fast aperture (even at 0.95 for the indoor shot) with a +1 diopter from Schneider. Above f2.8 with the Angenieux 25mm, you can notice a little of vignetting on the edges, but It doesn't bother me too much, since I doesn't use the whole image, I prefer to crop in order to get a 2.35 or even a 2.10 aspect ratio. 2.66 is way too wide for most of my tastes ! :P And whatever, I'm mostly after the oval bokeh, flares and the overall look of anamorphic depth of field. So I'm good with that.. And It cleans the edges which seem to be pretty blurry on the Yashica. (By the way, above 25mm I haven't seen any vignetting with my c-mount lenses) So, have you ever experienced this anamorphic lens, what would you recommend to me in order to use it the best way possible ? See you later and have a nice day/night to all. (Oh and I apologize for my pretty weak english !) :P
http://youtu.be/y2KdP55tIz8 I took the Izukar-scope out for a little walk today and for those that are interested, this is what i came back with. i've added a bit of a description in the youtube link, but it's getting a bit late here now, and i'm a bit knackered and a bit sunburnt :( so i'll just copy that here,... tomorrow i'll add a bit more about what it's like to use and some pics of the lens itself as i plan to put it up for auction. The Izukar-scope is a fixed focus x1.5 anamorphic lens made for 8mm movie cameras and projectors. Similar to the Sankyoscope, but this is a two optic system rather than a mirror system like the Sankyoscope which makes it quite usable at f2.8 with a good taking lens, kind of alright at f2. larger apertures and it goes a bit shit since tonnes of light leaks in from the sides washing the image out, and you start getting double vision out on the sides as the taking lens lets more light in. Made in Japan by Ichizuka Optics, circa a long fucking time ago :) Taking lens: Contax Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f1.4 Camera: Panasonic Lumix GH2 Straight out of the camera using the 24p Apocalypse Now Boom hack, no colour or level adjustments done. Shot mostly at f2.8 - f5.6 at 1/50 24p movie mode with an ND8, ND4 and a polarizer stacked on the front of the Izukar-Scope. Shot at 2pm-ish under harsh light cos i was curious as to how it would do. Close ups done with the dedicated diopter that screws onto the lens.
8mm Film Transfers
powderbanks posted a topic in CamerasI finally picked up a transfer box from ebay to convert some old 8mm films I have acquired over the years. I used my GH2 and it seems to do a pretty good job. This was the first time I used this particular setup. I had shot a couple Super 8mm films in film school, and we transferred to digital much in the same way. The setup wasn't completely ideal, I did it in my kitchen during the day, so there was a fair amount of ambient light. And then my roommate's dogs started barking during one. There are some under/over exposed parts that I'd like to go back and reshoot to get more detail. These are the raw video files, only converted for uploading. Once I get the workflow set, I'll crop it. I still have another 5 or 6 to upload http://vimeo.com/63873861 http://vimeo.com/63895169 http://vimeo.com/63987501 EDIT: Not sure why it's not embedding :huh:
QuickHitRecord posted a topic in Camerashttp://www.ebay.com/itm/181088333514 Is the winner among us? Or does anyone know anything about it? I was tempted to bid but I'm on an eBay diet.
[img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/inline/1/504a585882fcb_T2eC16RHJHoE9n3Ke90ZBP72E2fPfg60_12.jpg[/img] Only $11,000! http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574929666&toolid=10001&campid=5336727214&customid=&icep_item=180918390524&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg 8mm T1.3 (18mm equivalent on full frame, 12mm equivalent on Super 35) I'll take two! This covers 23% more than Super 16, so it does cover the larger sensor in the Blackmagic Cinema Camera. Maybe not optimal in the corners though, like you'd expect for an expensive ultra prime on Super 16mm.