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Caleb Genheimer

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  1. The next step would be to see if you can find a home brew way to re-introduce some fresh coatings! Always great to see a lens gain new life rather than be thrown away.
  2. It’s worth noting that the new Rapido Technology FVD-35NP will allow us to shorten long scopes, reducing the squeeze factor... but also gaining angle of view.
  3. I’m curious if the next implementation of the Ursa 12K sensor will implement DGO... there’s already some really different sauce in that thing with the RGBW bayer, and I’d think the bayer groupings have plenty enough individual photosites (4 total, 2 White and 2 colored) in them that half could operate at an entirely different gain for some serious DR increase. Even if it pans out to a little more noise, there’s just so much resolution to work with there, even a moderate amount of noise reduction wouldn’t cripple it below DCI.
  4. Electronic ND, Dual Gain Output (simultaneous ARRI-style,) and Full-Frame open gate video would have me buying this camera almost for certain. I agree with many it needs E-ND to set it apart from their other offerings, and IMO DGO is very quickly going to become the new flagship “flavor-of-the-month” (FINALLY we might get some dynamic range competition instead of this pointless hyper resolution!) It’s high time for CMOS to break through that ~12-13 stop ceiling. And full frame open gate video? It’s just really aggravating to have a nice big sensor but be unable to utilize it fully. S
  5. Just here to say, I wanted the new Fuji to have an open gate video mode enabled SO BADLY. That alone would’ve put me in “sell all my other bodies for a switch” high gear. I’m still holding steady without a sweat... GH5S for anamorphic, Pocket 4K for easy Raw, C200 from work if good AF is needed. I want LF video just because I find it interesting and really want to explore it. The S1H is tempting, but that darn AF keeps it from being the monstrous all-rounder I’m after. Hopefully the S2H fixes AF. If not, hey... S1H prices will probably drop at the same time and make that pu
  6. Still basically only Panny that’s doing real open gate full frame video, don’t understand why nobody else will put those modes in their flagships. Here’s hoping they get their act together whenever the S2H rolls around and it has actual autofocus though.
  7. I’ve been working out my own methods on this stuff for quite some time now, and as someone who also shoots some actual film here and there, some of the extreme minutiae are maddening to mail down, and prompted me to move into Resolve’s Fusion tab for many operations. It has been like learning to ride a bike all over again, and I’m not there yet, but Fusion is absolutely powerful enough to get me where I want to go eventually. There is complex spatial and temporal interplay (especially with overscanned footage) that simply can’t be done easily with power grades and edit page compositing. I gue
  8. Yeah, if folks haven’t figured it out by now... Canon is gonna Canon. It’s an overtly abusive approach to product lineup/development from a customer perspective, but it’s just their chosen philosophy. I follow all camera release news aggressively, because I find the technology advancements very engaging, but there’s no way I’d jump in on a multi-thousand dollar piece of kit before it has been well proven out in the wild, because all camera companies have their weak spots. They’re just tools, good tools will prove themselves through use. Canon makes some good tools, even if the peripherals
  9. “Add a gimbal with subject tracking and you can have AI track your subject around the scene, then distribute the autofocus distance to the second camera, which can frame your subject/scene however you like, while your subject stays perfectly in focus.” Ok yeah, I’d take a V2 where the sensor is built into a little DJI Osmo kind of micro-gimbal camera that has object tracking to keep the sensor pointed at the subject... that would be straight up insane.
  10. Great video, glad you opened it up. People are so precious with these things, but their construction is very simple unlike most other lenses. my bet is on one of your optical groups having worked itself loose and rotated. There’s a front block and a rear block, that’s it. For what it’s worth, many folks don’t use screws anyway, as they’re not always in exactly the right place. You could just glue that tab once you find the right position, or if you’re handy, you could still and tap a couple new holes... just clear out the chips before reassembly. But fist thing first, make sure the two o
  11. The front knurled ring “locks” the focus, so loosen that first. The wider knurling will then be able to rotate. The infinity mark may not be exact, but shouldn’t be far off. Put both the scope and your 50m at infinity markings and then point at something detailed in the far distance. You should be able to get it sharp with micro adjustments. are you supporting the weight of the scope adequately? An over heavy setup can sag enough to throw out focus.
  12. Is it possible to use the MMX “manually?” AKA with a wireless focus wheel? Or is it only controlled by the AFX?
  13. Let me know if I understand this correctly: one cable is included with the AFX which can power it and connect data on an M Motor. therefore, to run a second M Motor via the MMX and to power it as well, only one cable 3 is needed?
  14. What taking lenses do you use and on which sensor size?
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