deezid

Huge Screen (5 inches?), CFast, SD and direct Hard Drive Connection; 4 built in mics, plus Mini XLR, Big battery, $1295 price. Wow

This thing is a dream come true for hardly any money! Goodby Sony A7s.
You would Have to think it is.

Wow, dual ISO too. 

way better specs than i expected.

It's a personal choice. I won't bore you with all the details but the EVA1 is a head choice - pure business - but it would mean using EF stills glass whereas this would let me use my s16 superspeeds (heart choice) and still get tasty 4k - and hopefully 12bit instead of 10.

I think the guy that designed the Atari 2600 designed this.

Better looking image:

 
43rumors source is instagram post:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BhVrNQIjDP-/?taken-by=nyachan9
the author (https://www.instagram.com/nyachan9/) confirms:
- 4k 60p internal, external raw
- Super 16 sensor
- flip screen

Where/when can I send my money?

Fantastic news!! This makes a FS700 much more attractive, as I too didn't want to use a 7" monitor with it. 
 
It was BMD's first ever MFT camera. 
 
I don't imagine they will do an inactive mount again, not now they have the experience of building active MFT mount cameras. 

Only HDMI, "for DSLR & Mirrorless Cameras" but ProRes RAW?
Whatever that means. GH5(s)? Sony?

5" HDR 1000 Nits is amazing as well.
And how would - if at all - 4K RAW work from higher resolution sensor?
Maybe the Pixel count on the A7SIII will stay the same and it will still slightly crop. The GH5s would work beautifully as well with its 10MP sensor. The GH5 though. Idk...

In fact Don : ) And that's the million dollars question this weekend, really Dennis :-)

Man this might prove to be one hell of a NAB!
Only HDMI, "for DSLR & Mirrorless Cameras
You know I am not thinking SDI outputs are even necessary to have anymore other than the safety aspect of them not pulling out. That is a Big deal don't get me wrong. Surely the new HDMI standards have fast enough data transfer rates now?

Only HDMI, "for DSLR & Mirrorless Cameras" but ProRes RAW?
Whatever that means. GH5(s)? Sony?

5" HDR 1000 Nits is amazing as well.
And how would - if at all - 4K RAW work from higher resolution sensor?
Maybe the Pixel count on the A7SIII will stay the same and it will still slightly crop. The GH5s would work beautifully as well with its 10MP sensor. The GH5 though. Idk...

Only HDMI, "for DSLR & Mirrorless Cameras" but ProRes RAW?
Whatever that means. GH5(s)? Sony?

5" HDR 1000 Nits is amazing as well.
And how would - if at all - 4K RAW work from higher resolution sensor?
Maybe the Pixel count on the A7SIII will stay the same and it will still slightly crop. The GH5s would work beautifully as well with its 10MP sensor. The GH5 though. Idk...

I would not put it past Sony to have the A7s mk III using it. But yeah I think we may see it in quite a few cameras. Surely Apple had to give Companys a heads up it was coming out with ProRes Raw? Obliviously Atomos knew!

Just for @BTM_Pix, there are now pics floating around of a banner showing the new Atomos Ninja V - a 5", 1000nit, recorder/monitor that does 4k60p and Prores raw. I've held off on a external recorder because I want it to be somewhat future proof and do 60p, and the 7" screens are too big for my shooting style, but this might just fit the bill. 

Another image leaked, looks more and more like a collaborative effort together with Sony on this puppy:

And yes! A headphone port confirmed!

Looks like a Leica R9
Lets hope it isn't priced like one.

Since my rant in the Blackmagic Facebook group about using the Sony IMX294 sensor used in the GH5s and a strong Lowpass filter may be a good thing in terms of Dynamic Range, Lowlight, battery etc. and still benefitting BM color science, broke out into a war I'm trying here again. What would you guys think?

- Virtually no FPN
- better battery life
- Almost 14 stops of DR
- great low light, ISO6400 should be fine without internal Temporal NR
- low rolling shutter
- none of the issues the GH5s is plagued with (strong overprocessing precisely and harsh red channel clipping)

Funny how cineform raw existited since 2005 and is open source and platform independent but companies drag their feet. Whereas when Apple does something that is restricted toac ecosystem they implement it before it even gets released. I do belong to the Mac ecosystem and while the proresraw might offer faster performance I hate the closed system strings that apple attaches. 

So, as you may recall, I have an interest in tweaking the combinations of the basic profiles in the camera along with the contrast/sharpness/saturation/NR parameters.
The purpose of that is basically a mining operation to see if there are some combinations that perhaps may not be intuitive but whose interaction may yield pleasing results.
Outside of the usual "select cinelike d, reduce everything to -5" etc stuff that we all do, who really knows if Natural with +4 contrast/-5 sharpness/+3 saturation/+2 noise reduction might actually be the golden ticket?
I did a hardware controller last year based on a midi control surface that let you tweak the parameters in real time which, whilst offering a way of 'discovery through play', wasn't exactly ideal from a structured testing point of view. 
It also wasn't particularly practical (or cheap) for you to go out and replicate yourselves if you fancied a go !
Anyway, in pursuit of something a bit more structured, I created a very simple automated testing app which I thought I might as well hand out in case anyone else is interested in this sort of thing.
Its Android only so you elitists with that other phone type are out of luck for now
As its also a bit of a utilitarian thing that was only really designed for my own meddling, its not exactly pretty either but it works. Mainly.
OK, so here is how it looks, how to use it and what it does.
 
First things first, obviously, is to enable the Wifi on your Panasonic camera as per if you were using their app and then go into your phone/tablet and connect to it.
In the ProfileStepper app, you then press the "Connect" button and it will take control of the camera. It might complain the first time about approving the connection but if it does just repeat and it will be fine.
Once connected, you press the individual parameter buttons and select the range that you are interested in so in this example we have set it to be using the base Natural profile and how it looks with all permutations of Contrast from -5 to +3, Sharpness from -2 to 0, Saturation from -5 to +5 and NR from -5 to +1.
Next up is to set if you want to use Stills or Video, which we toggle between by pressing the Stills button and then to create a delay (of between 1 and 10 seconds) between shots you press the button (currently set to 2 seconds) and select it.
When you are happy with the settings range, press the Start button and the app will begin compiling the list of commands it needs to send to the camera. As this is a variable amount of time (in our example there are 2079 commands ) you may see a progress pop-up before it proceeds to the playout screen. Be patient.
The progress screen will then appear and display the value of each parameter in the set it is sending to the camera and the current progress (in this case we are on set 4 of 2079).

After it sends each set to the camera, if you have the mode set to Stills it will then fire the shutter on the camera. Obviously, make sure you have a decent memory card capacity if you are testing a lot of permutations!
If you are set to Video mode, a recording will begin on the camera as soon as you pressed the Start button and the changes will all be recorded into this one recording. This is where the Delay function becomes useful as it determines how long each setting is held on the video as it progresses. As with the Stills mode, be careful regarding capacity as if you have 1000 permutations with a Delay time of 5 seconds then, well....
In either mode, pressing the Stop button will abort and return you to the main screen and if you are in video mode it will stop the recording.
The purpose of the progress screen is not just to provide you with a countdown to whats going on but also meant to act as a slate so that you can put your phone/tablet in your test scene and the settings will then be embedded in the images/video when you review them. This is an example frame from a GX80 to illustrate. 
There is a 3 second delay built in to the beginning of the command playout process to allow you to do this but obviously as the camera is being controlled over Wifi you can place the phone/tablet in the scene and press Start from there anyway. This just gives you a chance to get your hand out of the way !

So there you go.
Its a bit of a niche app to say the least but might be useful for some.
Bear in mind, its not really meant to be about analysing every single permutation in one go (though it can do that if you want) its more about helping you to look at how more targeted ranges of settings interact with each other (such as Saturation and Contrast in a specific Profile for example). And what exactly is the Noise Reduction bringing to the party in terms of colour shifts and sharpening etc.
Download link is here
https://mega.nz/#!Vux3UDIK!TPJNYc8gJ6YrQY5T8xkZRAQ_IpBac16xIIGe3ET6R0Y
You'll need to set your device to install apps from non-Play store sources etc.
Its completely free, no ads or any bollocks like that.
As I say, its my own test tool and wasn't designed for general release but thought it might be useful to share.
If nothing else, its a quick way to get the Cinelike D hack on to your camera!
Because its just a quick and dirty test tool, there is no particularly elegant error handling going on (other than telling you that you haven't connected the camera) so if it throws one up just quit and restart it. 
If you set the To range to be lower than the From range (i.e. the From is -3 and the To is -4) then it won't execute the commands so don't do that. 
NB - The eagle eyed amongst you may have spotted the Bracket function at the bottom of the screen. This does exactly what you might expect but its unrelated to the main function but I needed it to test something so you get it as a bonus! You set the shutter speed and then the 1/3rd steps above and below and press Bracket and it takes the required frames with suitably altered shutter speeds. Its a bit flaky on some Panasonic cameras because they don't all allow the 1/3rd shutter changes so your mileage may vary and, as I say, you can largely ignore it.

Thanks Pewwinck! Here's the upcoming Daylight:

Soon; I have a lot of things to work on first. You'll be hearing from me (as previous)
New GHa Daylight

VLog + Varicam 35 Lut

New GHa Daylight

VLog + Varicam 35 Lut

Amen brother. The 7" formfactor is a joke, yet most monitors and recorders go for 7 and 10". That is fine for an actual director's monitor. But one that you use on-camera? Especially now in this day and age that we use gimbals where we can't necessarily always see the screen of the camera that well, or when said camera is a GH5 that outputs 4K60p 10-bit that you want to capture, it's about time these screensizes started to make sense. I appreciate what Videodevices did with the PIX-E5(H), but if you're looking at the price to get it up and running, it's not so funny anymore. The Blackmagic Design Video Assist 5" was a great little tool and boy have they added functionality with firmware, but it isn't a great 4K grabber. And then we've already ran out of options I believe. Concerning monitors... there are quite a few, like the Feelworld F570 for example, which I guess is great value. But I fail to understand why Aputure and Lilliput aren't giving 5" a real go... they did for 7". To me a 5" monitor makes more sense than a 7" one. And apparently that echoes here in the comments. Then how is it that we've got so little to pick from here? Are we all just mad and there's just too little of a market for 'em... not sure, but it's a shame there isn't much else going on in this space.