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IronFilm

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Everything posted by IronFilm

  1. Nikon Hacker and ML are nothing to do with each other
  2. ​Nah, that wouldn't be a good title at all. As it would be old news, they'd already got to that point ages ago.
  3. ​If you want higher quality 4K on a drone, then the Panasonic LX100 is the obvious answer :-) NOT the Canon XC10
  4. There is a *HUGE* amount of potential greatness from a NX1/GH4/A7s, especially if you're coming from a XH-A1 background from way back in the distant past. Most folks will just be scratching at the surface of the full potential of a NX1/GH4/A7s, and when filmmaking at an indy level is already got so many tough obstacles to tackle along the way.... why add in more which aren't essential?? Thus I suggest starting off with NX1/GH4/A7s, then in a year or three upgrade to a more expensive raw/ProRes shooting cinema camera.
  5. I agree, in the years and years which a person might spend to produce just one "high quality"​ film (it might even never happen...), another person could've in the same length of time produced half a dozen or more quick films that gradually escalated in complexity and budget. Who do you think at the end of this period has gained greater knowledge and more contacts, and is better prepared for his next film? I'd say obviously the latter person. ​You're making some huge assumptions here. Take another example: running. Does everybody who takes up jogging aims or even want to go to the Olympics?
  6. levisdavis, I thought the D5500 just performs roughly similar to the D5300/D5200 but slightly better?
  7. ​I agree, for nearly everybody the price vs performance gain you'd get with a GH4 isn't worth it. Is easier to argue the case for using it with a Sony A7s, as it is "crippled" without it because it can't do 4K internally. But then you're looking at a very steep total cost... you could buy 3x GH4 for that! Also, rather than Atomos Shogun I'd be seriously keeping an eye on these instead: http://www.videodevices.com/products/portable-video-recorders/pix-e A 10 inch screen on a tiny mirrorless camera is a rather bulky setup, 5 inches strikes me as being much nicer. As for getting a URSA Mini 4.
  8. Never heard of "contained thriller", thanks. Good further analysis and breakdown. I wish I could work with more screenwriters who really truly and deeply understand to the core what it means to make an ultra low budget movie. (because the easiest way to make budget savings is in the script!! Thus why it is so essential the scriptwriter is on board with that) ​ You're forgetting that: 1) a movie which costs millions *MUST* get fairly mass distribution so as to recoup the costs and then make a profit. Even a film which cost in the tens of thousands needs at least a certain degree of minim
  9. That is nice footage from the A5100 :-)
  10. If the last time you filmed anything was with a Canon XH-A1 then I'd certainly go with a Sony A7s / Samsung NX1 / Panasonic GH4 over a Blackmagic Design camera, just so that you've got an easier learning curve. Then once you've made your film with that, you could do your next one with an URSA Mini (and by that point in the future, you could probably pick up a kit for a couple of grand or less!).
  11. Sony A6000 or Sony A5100 for sure (my latest blog post is about these two: http://ironfilm.co.nz/best-low-light-camera-which-isnt-the-sony-a7s-for-those-on-a-lower-budget/ as they have great low light!). Panasonic GX7/G6 are another possibility. Otherwise I'd only consider other choices if your budget goes up (Samsung NX1 / URSA Mini / Sony A7s / etc) or down (Panasonic GH1/GH2 or Sony NEX-5N).
  12. Absolutely go with ZF!! ZE would just be an unnecessary pain in the arse for no purpose whatsoever
  13. ​One of the hardest things in scriptwriting is to write a good low budget film. http://www.scriptmag.com/features/alt-script-five-good-reasons-to-write-a-no-low-budget-script http://www.scriptmag.com/features/alt-script-four-ways-to-control-your-scripts-budget-without-compromising-the-film
  14. ​I would not bother wasting another second waiting for Canon Rebel to be worthwhile, never really has been. And next to zero chance any of the next couple of models will be some amazing breakthrough. Cut your losses, and get yourself a Sony A5100 with a focal reducer (cost me US$410 in total for this combo), it will blow the socks off in low light and overall video performance compared to whatever Canon Rebel you're currently using :-) Yes. Also, don't rule out getting an older D5200. Is what I'm often using, and it goes for very very cheap these days, even though it is a great camera: htt
  15. ​Yup, they're so cheap you can easily pick up 2 or 4 of them, and go with whichever one you personally prefer.
  16. ​Premiere can use HitFilm Plugins :-) Which is a more than good enough reason for many people to get HitFilm 3, even if they don't intend to use it as a standalone NLE.
  17. ​HitFilm is tailor made for 90%+ of amateurs and the many professionals who are a one man band do everything guy. There is a quite popular group on Facebook about HitFilm if people want to find out more: https://www.facebook.com/groups/426174967509293/ ​ You're implying wedding videographers are not professionals??? Well, I'd say the many many of them around the world who earn a full time living from this would disagree.
  18. Anything similar to Dedolights 150W/100W but cheaper? I really like them when I've used them, but they would seriously stretch my budget to buy a set.
  19. ​Yup, that is why I am consider the JVC GY-LS300, because low end corporate is exactly what I'm aiming to target.
  20. ​ I'm guessing he already he does, at least from his VFX background. But if he doesn't have a shooter/director showreel too, I'd hold off in dropping a large sum of money until that is assembled.
  21. Obviously the best option would be an A7s, I'd seriously suggest stretching to that if you can. Otherwise, go for a Sony A5100 (I got mine for a mere US$310 like new from Amazon some months back. Go for the A6000 though instead if overheating could be a serious concern you wish to avoid) plus a focal reducer (another hundred bucks) plus a Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 (which would be a few hundred dollars second hand). Won't be as good as an A7s of course, but is the next best thing on a budget! A5100 is the A6000 but with XAVCs added in as a bonus, and at a cheaper price too! http://www.eoshd.com/201
  22. Makes a great point, I agree! I hope for Batman vs Superman they use a contrasting mix of saturated vs a darker look.
  23. So "outfit a studio" doesn't include any costs to actually outfit the studio in terms of non-camera gear? (or lights/batteries/cards) As even that, can quickly add up to a lot, as a photographer in my city detailed earlier this week on Petapixel (she is very impressive, still a teenager!): http://petapixel.com/2015/04/20/how-i-built-my-first-photo-studio-over-the-course-of-three-months/
  24. JazzBox, how did you manage to get your hands on an early pre-production copy?? :-o
  25. Depends hugely on your specifc needs, current and future clients. Plus does this include the various start up costs for a business? Marketing? Setting up an office and studio space with a green room and sound proofed room for recordings? All of these can very quickly eat into your budget. Leaving not much at all behind for gear! So thus the suggestions in the other thread makes lot of sense then even in the context of this large budget. Get a FS7 or URSA Mini as the main camera, plus a NX1/A7s//BMMCC as the supplementary cameras.
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