Julian

It looks like some kind of 'rolling shutter' artefact. I'd suspect the shutter speed as well.

Looks nice! Hold it in front of a lens for a test run I'd say!

The flare seems to show up in the lower and upper parts, because of the mirrors. Actually it also gives a pretty nice effect when you use lenses that are too wide, so you can actually see the mirrors inside the anamorphic.   Here's an example, not my video, it's made with a 16mm Delrama and a 20mm f/1.7 Panasonic:   http://vimeo.com/7256943

Not necessarily. Over the years sensors get better. The current 16 megapixel Sony-sensor has been around for about 3 years. It has improved since, but it's still based on the same design (I suppose). A new sensor generation can improve both resolution and low light performance.   The current 16 and 24 megapixelsensors are much better in low light than the 6 or 8 megapixel sensors the same size from a decade ago.

How about a loupe on the LCD?

Just went out to shoot some bright lights. It looks definitely different because of the mirrors. A lot of reflections going on, interesting effects.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NOfNhRDz8U   Good thing is, I used the Konica Hexar 40mm f/1.8 for this clip (at f/1.8) and it works without vignetting! Shot on Panasonic GH2, unhacked @ iso 3200.   Also, the focus seems fine from about 2 meters distance without diopters.

I don't have experience with any of those, but they both look like huge projection anamorphics. I do have experiences with these... and I would suggest something smaller. I'm sure you have access to eBay in Slovenia?

It's definitely a short clip :) The handling of the high lights looks nice, would like to see more!

What profile/settings did you use on the D5200? It looks like there's some sharpening going on. I tested a D5200 as well and dialed everything down as far as possible, didn't look very detailed to me, but it might benefit from sharpening. Still, the D5200 looks like a good deal. I'm really curious what the next generation Sony aps-c sensors will do.

Let me know when you find someone or a place :) I heard damping mirrors is a 'common' practice for astronomers.

According to rumors the upcomping Sony A58 will get a new 20MP sensor. This will probably replace the current 16 MP sensor and I would expect new NEX camera's will also get this sensor (except for the NEX-3N, which will be released soon with the current 16MP sensor).   I'm really curious how this new 20MP sensor will turn out. I hope it will be as good, or better, than the Toshiba 24MP sensor in de Nikon D5200 for video.   A NEX-5R or NEX-6 replacement with this new 20MP sensor would be great if it is on par with the Toshiba-sensor. Especially combined with the speed booster.    

Somewhere last year I stumbled upon a lot of Delrama 8 CP 1,5 lenses, made by the Dutch company Old Delft.     A tiny fixed focus 1,5x anamorphic for 8mm camera's. It uses curved prisms and mirrors instead of cylincrical lenses. I bought them with some diy projects in mind...   Sadly, the Delrama's are in pretty bad shape, as you can see. It isn't fungus, it is the silver on the mirrors that is detoiriated. You can't clean it, you'd have to redamp the mirrors to fix it. I never really looked into it, since it seems an expensive process. So they have been lying around here for a while... Today I decided to experiment a bit more with them. The Delrama's have a screw mount that is exactly the same size as a C-mount lens. I don't have any lenses where I can fit it onto directly, but since it's so small and light, I decided to sacrifice a simple plastic lens cap from one of my Minolta's. I cut a hole into it, just large enough to fit the filter thread. It holds the Delrama pretty well.     On the last picture it is attached to my Minolta 58mm f/1.4. It seems to need a pretty long lens. With the 58mm and the GH2 it works fine, but on my 35mm it's like looking trough a tunnel.   I also 'modified' a Computar 25mm f/1.8 C-mount lens. I superglued a C-mount extension ring to the inner part of the lens barrel (that doesn't move while focusing). I loosely screw the Delrama on top of that, align it and then tighten it with the little clamp.     This results in a tiny anamorphic combination, but it only works in EXTC. Also, I think I'll have to modify the Computar lens, since it doesn't quite focus to infinity. It's a funny little combination though.   I took the Anamorphic Lens Cap and the Computar Anamorphic out for some test shots:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfV0xHHhQUU   In hindsight I should have used a profile with more contrast, this was all shot at smooth -2-2-2-2. The damaged Delrama's probably make the image even flatter. But the light was already pretty flat.   I have no idea how it would compare to a Delrama in pristine conditions, but even with the damaged mirrors these liltle ones still look usable in some way. It is nice to be able to rack focus them.   I'm not sure what the minimum focus distance is. I read 4 meters somewhere, but I think it's closer to 2 meters. I also tried holding some diopters in front of the lens, with a +1 diopter I could focus at 0,5 meters.

[url=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/2043-blackmagic-cinema-camera-tips-overexpose-it-for-best-results-and-interview-with-john-brawley/?p=26950]This is the only post in that discussion that made any sense[/url]   Seriously... I try avoiding soap opera as hard as I can, the last place where I expect it is here.

Nikon, Leica R and lenses for larger formats (medium format etc).

  Impossible. The distance from the mount to the sensor is too big.

Nice :) Can you show some pictures of the Hypergonar 'naked', without the filters/clamps?

Because the anamorphic lens projects an oval image onto your taking lens. If you cut out some shapes on a piece of paper and put it on front of your lens, the bokeh will take that shape: http://www.diyphotography.net/diy_create_your_own_bokeh   The anamorphic lens is like a piece of paper with an oval cut. It won't affect real objects, just the out of focus highlights.

A sony NEX with this sensor would be an instant buy for me :) Shame Nikon doesn't make aps-c-mirrorless camera's.

@good idea rich! Found a 37mm to 25mm step down.. that should work with the tape and some other filters.   How do you like the baby Isco Seb? Any footage?

My wannabe Henri Chrétien then ;)   I can still align the lens with a step down filter. See the pictures, there is a 'clamp' included.   Thanks for the eBay link, sadly it's not available anymore but I'll send a message. And I'll know where to find Tony if it doesn't work out. I'm already a happy customer, got a Redstan clamp for my Kowa.

Yep, i'm officially the happiest man on EOS HD right now.. Thanks Tony :) I'll treat my baby Henri Crétien with great care and love.   As far as I've seen the look it gives is pretty clean. I pointed some bright led torches at it, it flares, but not exactly mega flare. Seems to depend more on the taking lens.   I need to find a proper way to attach it to a lens now... hand holding it just doesn't cut it.   The adapter has a thread that is just a little smaller than the 25.4mm C-mount. If I put it in my C-mount adapters it just fits in loosely. I suspect it's something like ~24.5mm (could it be 24mm? I found some B&W filters in 24mm). Or is it measured in one of the 'series'?   It must be some standard thread size since it was supposed to be used on a Bolex H16 (at least, according to the seller). I can't find any info on filter size for Bolex lenses, it seems like they used gel filters then.   The easiest way would be a step down filter. Anyone know a place where they have those in odd varieties? The smallest step down I can find goes to 37mm.

It looks a bit like the baby Hypergonar design wise. It's funny, apparently there exists technology on this world which you cannot find on the internet ;)   Where do you get step down rings with 'big steps'? I'm not sure what the thread sizes are. The Bolex adapter is just a bit smaller than a C-mount thread. Seems to be around 23mm. I'd like to mount it as close as possible to the lens. But finding a 55mm to ~23mm step down filter is a bit difficult :) A step down filter that would bring the anamorphic even closer to the lens element would be perfect..

Thanks, I'm loving it! Works well wide open, no diopters needed, crazy small.. I wonder how the corners look at f/4-f/8, I have the impression it's not bad at all. On my Minolta 28mm it gives a bit of vignetting, 35mm is fine. I wonder how it would work on a Sigma 30mm f/1.4.   Do you have any idea what lens it is? I have the feeling this little thing is worth it's weight (ok.. it's not much ;)) in gold!

Straight out of the box test shots. Enjoy my dying plant. Hand held in front of a 25mm f/1.2 cctv lens and a Jupiter-8 50mm f/2.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7PZxbWP0Ds

There it is, the 'Petit-Cinevision'. If I google this, the only hit I get is the eBay auction where I bought it... Could it be something like Angenieux? It also says 'made in Japan' on the side.   For good measurements, the Petit-Cinevision next to a bag of Haribo Goldbären. Everybody knows them right? The Goldbären where supplied by the seller, which is good, so my girlfriend didn't go crazy I bought 'another stupid lens'. She ate them before I could take the picture.   The front. The glass looks really clean, in very good condition. The focus ring isn't smooth at all, its bumpy and lacking damping. But the lens elements seem to move fine. Also, it focuses from 0,9 meters to infinity, which is awesome.   My baby and the Jupiter 8 50mm f/2. The Petit-Cinevision already came with a Bolex-clamp included, I'll need some crazy step down filters though. It looks like it's made for the Jupiter though.